Propane plumbing help

I'm working out the plans for a single tier build and I have most of the propane plumbing figured out. The biggest question I have is about my particular regulator, which came as a Bayou Classic SP10. Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this budget tight so I can be wise with the money my wife is agreeing to let me spend on this hobby.

This is the actual part I have:
http://bayouclassicdepot.com/m5hpr_propane_regulator.htm
And the first part of the stand is going to be a 3/8" Tee so I can split off to each of the two burners.

#1: is 10PSI going to be enough to run two burners at once? So far I've been good with just one burner, so maybe this is a non-issue. My only thought was about mashing out the first batch sparge volume in the BK while warming water for the second batch.

#2: The orifice is built into the crimped swivel connection. My first thought is to just install a coupling between the orifice and the Tee (both 3/8). BUT, is it a problem that there is an orifice here and orifices downstream on the burners?

#2a: Am I just better off getting an adjustable regulator w/o the orifice, like this one? http://bayouclassicdepot.com/m5hpr1_propane_regulator.htm (or an adjustable regulator?)



This is turning out to be a little bit trickier than I thought it would be. I've never dealt with propane plumbing before, so even figuring out the right combination of 1/4x3/8 fittings has been more work than I anticipated.

Thanks in advance for the help & insight!

I bought the adjustable one and run it at 20 psi. I used 3/8 copper tubing for the propane lines.

I'm digging the orange stand and diamond plate! What do you have to protect the paint from the burner heat?

It's kind of hard to tell, but are you running the copper from the BK under the lower tier's top rail? My concern would be that heat from a burner might be a bit too high on the supply line.

And finally, are you using soldered fittings or compression (is compression even an option in propane)?

jsmoon888 said:

I bought the adjustable one and run it at 20 psi. I used 3/8 copper tubing for the propane lines.

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Your stand and my stand should go on a date.



But in response to the OP it sounds like it shouldn't be a problem to go with what you are describing in either case. I would just make sure whatever you do should be spec'd out to the burners requirements. If it calls for a 20 psi regulator then use that.

mrrshotshot said:

Your stand and my stand should go on a date.

View attachment 87189

But in response to the OP it sounds like it shouldn't be a problem to go with what you are describing in either case. I would just make sure whatever you do should be spec'd out to the burners requirements. If it calls for a 20 psi regulator then use that.

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Bayou Classic isn't quite forthright with the BTU rating on the burner (it can operate anywhere from 10-40 PSI), but the Bayou regulator I already have says it supplies up to 55k BTU/h at 10psi. One thing I'm confused about is the needle valve attached to the reg says it's 1/2 PSI. Is it really reducing the line pressure to 1/2 PSI?

So does having a needle valve (wide open) upstream from the burner valves cause any problems?

Will "utility grade" copper coil be fine for this application?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_12605-69305...urrentURL=?Ntt=3%2F8+copper+tubing&facetInfo=

or this?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...eyword=copper+coil&storeId=10051#.UMEIcKUWlNw

Not sure. I just used 3/8" flex propane hose. Much easier to work with. And probably cheaper too.

mrrshotshot said:

Not sure. I just used 3/8" flex propane hose. Much easier to work with. And probably cheaper too.

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Did you make your own? I called around and couldn't find anyone that would make custom lengths (or just buy short ones) for a reasonable price (eg, $15 for 15" hose). I have most of this stuff figured out, but there's one nagging question...

Can I screw the male flare into an FNPT fitting and get a good seal, or do I need to keep looking for a specialty fitting?

I used flare fittings on the copper tubing. Got the valves, orifices, burners and regulator from bayou. Got the manifold to tie it all together from McMaster. The top part of the orange paint is burnt to black now but it still looks ok.

I went to my local propane store and they sold me the lengths. I made them myself with some barbed flare fittings. It was 2$ a foot of gas line and I cant remember what the fittings cost.

But the flare fittings will not fit NPT. You'll have to get a 3/8 x 3/8 Flare coupler to make it work if you have it coming off of black iron pipe like i do.

mrrshotshot said:

I went to my local propane store and they sold me the lengths. I made them myself with some barbed flare fittings. It was 2$ a foot of gas line and I cant remember what the fittings cost.

But the flare fittings will not fit NPT. You'll have to get a 3/8 x 3/8 Flare coupler to make it work if you have it coming off of black iron pipe like i do.

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Thanks for the Flare/NPT detail. I think that pretty much makes up my mind. I think the black iron pipe manifold + propane hose will probably be the cheapest and easiest to source. My second option would be going the copper flare on black pipe (more or less the same concepts).

So... I'll keep calling around for the hose. I'm sure somebody will be able to do it. Otherwise, I remember seeing some online somewhere that should work.

Thanks for all the help!

look for hose-man - they have them up here, they might be down in SD as well. They can make custom hoses any way you want, but they are a bit pricey, but I think they're worth it. I've used them for all sorts of hoses. . .

socalboomer said:

look for hose-man - they have them up here, they might be down in SD as well. They can make custom hoses any way you want, but they are a bit pricey, but I think they're worth it. I've used them for all sorts of hoses. . .

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Unfortunately it looks like they are only in Riverside, LA, and Ventura. But that's not a bad idea - to look for a hydraulic hose company that's willing to do a small job like that. What kind of hose should I ask about?

nice thing is that you can describe what you're doing - propane - and what ends you need and they have plenty of knowledge about putting it together.

There is a very slight concern with using copper and propane with regard to corrosion. I used it for several years and asked a plumber about it. He said with the small frequency at which I was running gas through the copper, it was a non issue. Seal was never an issue with compression fittings.

dcbc said:

There is a very slight concern with using copper and propane with regard to corrosion. I used it for several years and asked a plumber about it. He said with the small frequency at which I was running gas through the copper, it was a non issue. Seal was never an issue with compression fittings.

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That's the gist I got from going through a lot of threads here on HBT. Ultimately I think flexible tubing is going to be the more affordable route and allow me to make adjustments easier without necessarily having to use consumables. That said, if the price is right, I still may do it.

dcbc said:

There is a very slight concern with using copper and propane with regard to corrosion. I used it for several years and asked a plumber about it. He said with the small frequency at which I was running gas through the copper, it was a non issue. Seal was never an issue with compression fittings.

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Not sure what you're refering to. Propane companies around here use propane for their lines - even underground.

I got a 5 foot braided hose and propane bottle fitting from True Value hardware this monday and the rest of the pipe and fittings from Home Depot. I used 1 dual stage regulator per burner, as I've seen a few people recommend on this forum. I chose the regulators based on other posts here too. I went with the regulators for each that way there was still high pressure supplied for each and not low pressure now forced to power each one simultaneously. Used 1/2 inch flex tubing for a gas stove or dryer from the furnace valve to the burner.

There are mixed opinions about this. Many say that copper is fine, and that codes allow it, but warn that copper connections that can be the weak point and weaken over time. Traditionally, the additives to gas (for the smell) have been known to corrode the pipe. Many, like you note, say that they have been using copper for decades with no problem.
Copper certainly is widely and safely used. Perhaps the copper pipes in use for 40 years is a considering factor.
I'm not an expert, but it seems confusing and certainly worth considering both sides. Again, when it was my stand (previously), I used copper based on relatively infrequency of use.

i have never heard of this copper/propane thing you are talking about. Are you sure you arent thinking about galvanized/natural gas. Those two are a bad combination. But propane and copper have been used together forever.

I've seen them for many years use copper lines to the house from the big propane tanks.

I think it is more of a supposed issue with NG

I just want to start out by saying I'm no expert.
For your questions about the regulator: it depends on the btu rating and pressure design of your burners. Are you using low pressure or high pressure propane burners?
If you are using multiple burners get a regulator that can handle all the btu of all burner that you will operate at one time. Look for something like 200,000 btu regs. Also get one without the orifice.
You can buy orifice valves from Williams homebrew supply that will connect to the burner.
The orifice size is very important for the proper combustion of you propane. This is want ensures the proper air mixture for clean burning.
I hope this helps. Also look at other post about high and low pressure propane to makes sure you be the correct regulator for your burner.

Copper tubing will in time corrode with the propane . If the copper tubing is left untouched it generally wont cause any problems like the pigtail used to hookup the larger tanks for household use. If that copper tubing is tampered with it can result in a flood small flakes that can clog orfices and gas controls. If you are moving your system around frequently or automating your system later i would look at something else to plumb with..

If you are using the the regulators as they were posted originaly, the qcc fitting (black, red or green female connector to propane cyl. service valve) have flow limiters built in based on color. green is highest a p.o.l. fitting could be installed in its place leaving your regulator as the prime source of btu limitations..

mpride1911 said:

I got a 5 foot braided hose and propane bottle fitting from True Value hardware this monday and the rest of the pipe and fittings from Home Depot. I used 1 dual stage regulator per burner, as I've seen a few people recommend on this forum. I chose the regulators based on other posts here too. I went with the regulators for each that way there was still high pressure supplied for each and not low pressure now forced to power each one simultaneously. Used 1/2 inch flex tubing for a gas stove or dryer from the furnace valve to the burner.

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you have any pics of your set up? I am thinking about changing my gas line setup to give me control of each burner. I was thinking about needle valves, have seen this on a few different setups. Would be interested in seeing your build.
Happy Holidays,
Pat

I'm out of town and only have a few pics on my cell phone right now. Not sure how to use the phone app, but hopefully they will attach.

I think the regulator that came with the burner is a 10psi, but the burners are also high pressure so I don't know whether both can be on at the same time. I can't imagine I would ever need both on full power. Even during boil the burner is maybe 50%.

I'm leaning toward using hp propane hose from black pipe. I have a couple of design ideas, one of which is placing the needle valves coming off the black pipe under the cooler mash tun. The rubber hose will give me some more flexibility to change my design.