Some questions about extracts: types and quality

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zonabb

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I've recently bottled my first batch of extract brew and am ready to get away from the kits and order some extract to brew with the addition of hops and other adjuncts.

I was just wondering what people think about the quality of the various brands of malt extract and if anyone uses dried malt over extract syrups?

The reason is that in any product, some producers make better products than others. I've read that some malt producers add to their extracts with things like corn syrups and other unnecessary additives. I'm looking to just see what people day and prefer.
 
zonabb said:
The reason is that in any product, some producers make better products than others. I've read that some malt producers add to their extracts with things like corn syrups and other unnecessary additives. I'm looking to just see what people day and prefer.
I have also read this however all the extracts I have commonly seen say they are 100% malt extract. This includes Munton's, John Bull, Cooper's and Briess. I think this practice is much less common than it once was. Home brewers are in general much better informed than they were in the early days so pure malt extracts are a better selling point.
Craig
 
Agreed with the 100% malt.

I use dry malt extract: Briess, Muton and Fison, and Northwestern. I used Laagander once too, it was fine, from what I've read and based on my one batch, it finishes a couple points higher than other extracts.
 
I have used Briess LME, Muntons & Laaglander DME in my extract brews..all three resulted in some fantastic brews. No issues with using them again.

Some of the basic kit canned extracts & prehopped extracts that I first started with several years were not all that memorable and don't really stick out one way or the other.
 
I always use Munton's extra light DME for my fermentables and get any color or other characteristics from specialty grain. I find this gives me a little bit more control over the final product.

I would avoid LME, I used it early on and found it to leave a distinct extract "twang" which I have not experienced since switching to all DME; worth the added cost IMO.
 
Thanks! I expected these sort of answer so the confirmation is good.

I guess then my question would be: when using DME can you substitute it straight up, pound for pound, for LME?

I haven't got too much into reviewing recipes because I brew my first as a kit and I have one more LME kit to go, an IPA. But after that, my preference and intent has always been to be able to be more creative and brew better beer, either continuing to using MEs in some form.
 
zonabb said:
Thanks! I expected these sort of answer so the confirmation is good.

I guess then my question would be: when using DME can you substitute it straight up, pound for pound, for LME?

I haven't got too much into reviewing recipes because I brew my first as a kit and I have one more LME kit to go, an IPA. But after that, my preference and intent has always been to be able to be more creative and brew better beer, either continuing to using MEs in some form.

you can search for the discussion on substitution rates.

Personally, I have used plenty of briess LME and no one has ever commented on extract twang with my brews.
 
homebrewer_99 said:
Late addition brewing with dry malt extract (DME) allows you to make lighter colored brews.

Just don't forget to adjust your hops for the lower gravity boil.

Your pale ale might turn into the lower end of an IPA without the balancing sweetness haha! :cross:

*trying to hide obvious experience talk*
 
zonabb said:
I guess then my question would be: when using DME can you substitute it straight up, pound for pound, for LME?

No, LME has water in it and DME does not so DME is more concentrated. I can't remember the exact conversion factor, do a search, it's around here somewhere.
 
You guys rock. The home brew community is unlike any other "community" I've been "in." No pretentiousness; ego, etc. Or at least so far as I've seen!!

I have a masters degree and work in engineering/urban planning and it's refreshing to hear from people who aren't egotistical and arrogant.

Thanks a million, sorry for the rant!!!!!!!!
 
zonabb said:
You guys rock. The home brew community is unlike any other "community" I've been "in." No pretentiousness; ego, etc. Or at least so far as I've seen!!

I have a masters degree and work in engineering/urban planning and it's refreshing to hear from people who aren't egotistical and arrogant.

Thanks a million, sorry for the rant!!!!!!!!
You don't know us well enough yet...;)
 
zonabb said:
You guys rock. The home brew community is unlike any other "community" I've been "in." No pretentiousness; ego, etc. Or at least so far as I've seen!!

I have a masters degree and work in engineering/urban planning and it's refreshing to hear from people who aren't egotistical and arrogant.

Thanks a million, sorry for the rant!!!!!!!!

Hes never met the wrath of an EAC. :p
 
Just browsing through teh forums and found this thread interesting. couple of things:

isn't DME generally more fermentable that LME? I thought I had read that somewhere. I really prefer DME anyway, as LME tends to make my beer much darker than intended.

also, the book "Beer Captured" has some of the best tables and charts i've ever seen for conversions and measurements for everything. They have several formulas, including grains -> LME -> DME as you all were discussing (not sure if it's the same formula, though). It also has flavor, attenuation, color, TONS of info hops, grains, malts, etc.

Betweeen that book and browsing forums (of course), I've really improved my brewing techniques and been able to better determine the beer i'm making. It also has a lot of good clone recipes. Highly recommended. :rockin:
 
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