In-Line Check Valve Q

I would like to install this check valve in-line on my gas tubing. Problem is, one side is barbed and the other side is threaded. I know, this is supposed to go into a manifold / distributer or regulator. But this is what I have and I want it close to the gas disconnect.



Does anyone know where I can get a 3/8” o.d. barbed fitting that screws on to the threaded side? I checked HD but no luck. Threads are 1/4" Right Hand NPT.

fwiw, that's not a "check valve", it's a ball valve...

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

fwiw, that's not a "check valve", it's a ball valve...

Cheers!

Click to expand...

Depends. I have a bunch with integrated check valves.
http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/co2-regulators-check-valves-aid-110.html

To the OP. Had the same issue. I couldn't come up with anything at the local hardware store but I'm sure you could find something from grainger or mcmaster.

pelipen said:

Depends. I have a bunch with integrated check valves.

Click to expand...

You have a bunch of "what"? Ball valves, yes?

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

You have a bunch of "what"? Ball valves, yes?

Cheers!

Click to expand...

Half are ball valves with integrated check valves. Half are check valves with integrated ball valves. I get them mixed up because they look exactly the same

discooby said:

I would like to install this check valve in-line on my gas tubing. Problem is, one side is barbed and the other side is threaded. I know, this is supposed to go into a manifold / distributer or regulator. But this is what I have and I want it close to the gas disconnect.

View attachment 46382

Does anyone know where I can get a 3/8” o.d. barbed fitting that screws on to the threaded side? I checked HD but no luck. Threads are 1/4" Right Hand NPT.

Click to expand...

There are two versions of that valve available. One is just a ball valve, and there is one that has an integrated check valve. Problem is, at least with the ones that I bought from Northern Brewer, is that the check valve part did not hold. NB replaced them no charge, but the new ones wouldn't hold either.

I attempted to take them apart and found that the threads are sealed with red Loctite. I was unable to get them to seal using regular thread sealant. I ended up using red refrigerant Loctite that I use for work, after using the Loctite primer that is required, to get them to seal.

After that I decided to just use them as shut off valves and look elsewhere for in-line check valves. Wanting to have check valves in my 1/4" gas lines that I could trust I did some research and found these 1/4" Kynar Plastic Inline Check Valves from U.S. Plastics. They've been in continuous operation for over 5 years and they still hold like a rock.

day_trippr said:

fwiw, that's not a "check valve", it's a ball valve...

Cheers!

Click to expand...

There is a “ball valve” inside along with a “check valve”…. You must be confused with this while I have this. If you want to get technical about its name how about, for the sake of clarification, we call it a “Draft Beer Gas Shut Off Valve with Check Valve”?

pelipen, I went to lowes and pieced together this:



They had a ¼” Barb x ¼” FIP but the ¼” barb is a little loose in the 5/16” gas line so I used the pipe reducing coupling to accommodate the 3/8” barb. I installed it and it works great, no leaks in 48 hrs. The “gas shut off valve with check valve” barb was an easier 3/8” to fit in the 5/16” gas line… the hose barb adapter took a lot more convincing to fit.

johnsma22 said:

There are two versions of that valve available. One is just a ball valve, and there is one that has an integrated check valve. Problem is, at least with the ones that I bought from Northern Brewer, is that the check valve part did not hold. NB replaced them no charge, but the new ones wouldn't hold either.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply johnsma22, I'm just curious, how did you find out they didn’t hold? Installing mine the wrong way prevented 30psi nitrogen from moving past the valve. Reinstalling it the right way worked leading me to believe this would hold up fine… now I’m second guessing.

johnsma22 said:

After that I decided to just use them as shut off valves and look elsewhere for in-line check valves. Wanting to have check valves in my 1/4" gas lines that I could trust I did some research and found these 1/4" Kynar Plastic Inline Check Valves from U.S. Plastics. They've been in continuous operation for over 5 years and they still hold like a rock.

Click to expand...

Reading other threads I saw those (actually I think it was your post)… that was after buying the above at the LHBS so I figured I’d just use what I had. But, these are so cheap I might get one as extra insurance.

Do you know what the difference is between the Kynar and PP Standard check valves are… besides the price?

discooby said:

Thanks for the reply johnsma22, I'm just curious, how did you find out they didn’t hold? Installing mine the wrong way prevented 30psi nitrogen from moving past the valve. Reinstalling it the right way worked leading me to believe this would hold up fine… now I’m second guessing.

Click to expand...

Back when I first started kegging I used to carbonate through the gas in fitting with a carbonation stone that fit in place of the standard short gas in dip tube. I was doing something (can't remember exactly), but I shut off the CO2 tank and released the pressure from the regulator and beer shot up the carbonation stone dip tube right past the ball valve/check valve into my regulator! I called NB and they replaced them. Once I installed them I did a little test with just water in a keg with the same setup (carbonation stone), released the pressure and the water started coming out of the keg into my gas line!

I serious doubt I was the only one having this problem. It was a few years ago, so I suspect that maybe the valves have been redesigned or something to avoid this.

discooby said:

Reading other threads I saw those (actually I think it was your post)… that was after buying the above at the LHBS so I figured I’d just use what I had. But, these are so cheap I might get one as extra insurance.

Do you know what the difference is between the Kynar and PP Standard check valves are… besides the price?

Click to expand...

The only difference between the Kynar and PP standard check valves, according to the owner of US Plastics that I spoke with on the phone, was that the Kynar material is considered to be better for food grade applications.

Awesome, I'll be ordering them. Thanks again Johnsma22

johnsma22 said:

There are two versions of that valve available. One is just a ball valve, and there is one that has an integrated check valve. Problem is, at least with the ones that I bought from Northern Brewer, is that the check valve part did not hold. NB replaced them no charge, but the new ones wouldn't hold either.

I attempted to take them apart and found that the threads are sealed with red Loctite. I was unable to get them to seal using regular thread sealant. I ended up using red refrigerant Loctite that I use for work, after using the Loctite primer that is required, to get them to seal.

After that I decided to just use them as shut off valves and look elsewhere for in-line check valves. Wanting to have check valves in my 1/4" gas lines that I could trust I did some research and found these 1/4" Kynar Plastic Inline Check Valves from U.S. Plastics. They've been in continuous operation for over 5 years and they still hold like a rock.

Click to expand...

So, you just cut your gas-line and then just clamp the cut ends to either side of this?

LoneWolfPR said:

So, you just cut your gas-line and then just clamp the cut ends to either side of this?

Click to expand...

Yes, that's how these get installed. There is an arrow on them that you need to make sure is pointing in the direction of gas flow from regulator to keg. Also, if using worm drive hose clamps, make sure to not over tighten them, as you could accidentally crush them. If using properly sized Oetiker clamps (which I highly recommend) this is not a concern.