Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I bought the 10 gallon Igloo cooler, instead of the Rubbermaid.

Do they both use the same parts listed here, or will I need different parts?
 
grimstuff said:
Mine warped on the first batch right after I poured the strike water in (~170 F). There were creaks and cracking sounds coming from the cooler, so I assume the inner liner was expanding and just started popping out with no where else to go. Now its a permanent feature of the cooler. But like i said, no problems whatsoever. If it lasts a few years, I'd say that's pretty good for a $40 investment. I can just pop out the valve and braid and start with a new cooler when the time comes.

I'm glad to hear and see that I'm not the only one with a warped cool. Mine just happened today on my second mash with this set up. I hope I can get a few uses out of it before buying a new one. :)
 
Irish13 said:
I'm glad to hear and see that I'm not the only one with a warped cool. Mine just happened today on my second mash with this set up. I hope I can get a few uses out of it before buying a new one. :)

Mine has been warped over a year and the one before that was longer. The only reason I had to make a second one is because I bumped my valve pretty hard a created a 3 inch crack on the inside.. :mug:

Edit: my second one was from the thrift store.. $5..
 
Same here, both my 5Gallon and 10 Gallon MT's have warped on the inside. It pretty much happened the first time I ever used them and they've been that way since. They still work fine though. As long as the false bottom continues to be able to fit into it.
 
I just built another one for about $50. My local Lowe's had the 10 gal Rubbermaid on clearance for $28. The braid and hardware ran about $20. I built my first one for a lot less. I found a 10 Igloo cooler at a garage sale that had a crack in it. I got if for a buck and fiberglassed the crack and added the hardware.

If you are patient and look for deals you can do this really cheaply.

I should start looking to see if they have these on sale near me. I found a used one on Craigslist for about that clearance price. Guess I'd rather get new if I can find for a similar price.
 
I bought the 10 gallon Igloo cooler, instead of the Rubbermaid.

Do they both use the same parts listed here, or will I need different parts?

I use a 10g Igloo. Parts listed worked fine for me but I had to add a few washer to the front for the handle to clear.
 
Just made my MLT yesterday. Followed the original instructions to the t. No leaks. Pictures were a big help. Thank!
 
Not sure if anyone still checks this thread but here goes.

Does anyone know if a flat washer can replace the 5/8 SS fender washer?
 
I'm not sure if a standard flat washer will except the brass or stainless nipple through it while still being large enough to "plug" the opening up.
 
I'm not sure if I posted this in here before but I bought the weld-less bulkhead and 3 piece valve from brewhardware.com to make mine and didn't need any washers or use the original rubber washer. Works like a charm
 
Hi all,

I am trying to create MLT from 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. I cannot completely fasten the female brass adapter (Watts A-298) to the 3/8'' MIP brass nipple (Watts A-786)

I have a gap between these two. It looks similar to the FlyGuy's picture:

7346-6_Assemble_Inner_r.jpg


But on one of the last pictures he does not seem to have this gap anymore when he added external parts

7346-10_Braid_in_Cooler_r.jpg


How to screw this so I do not have that gap between A-298 and SS washer?
I assume that I do not just pull the whole thing outside because the flat part of Watts A-786 will be out of the cooler and I would be unable to secure it in place.

Thanks.
 
sarajevskopivo said:
Hi all,

I am trying to create MLT from 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. I cannot completely fasten the female brass adapter (Watts A-298) to the 3/8'' MIP brass nipple (Watts A-786)

I have a gap between these two. It looks similar to the FlyGuy's picture:

But on one of the last pictures he does not seem to have this gap anymore when he added external parts

How to screw this so I do not have that gap between A-298 and SS washer?
I assume that I do not just pull the whole thing outside because the flat part of Watts A-786 will be out of the cooler and I would be unable to secure it in place.

Thanks.

You will probably have to use multiple ss washers to make up the gap. If memory serves me I used something like 3-4 washers and it seals perfectly.
 
sarajevskopivo said:
So I have to use 3-4 SS washers inside and 3-4 outside? Thanks a lot.

I only used them on the outside. one on the inside if I remember correctly I would take a look but it is outside in my garage.
 
I just did this using 3 SS washers outside plus 1 ss inside. Leaks a few drops a minute or so but I think my cooler has a thinner wall so I will need to get more washers to make up for the lost thickness.

Mine is a blue Lowe's igloo cooler.
 
So if there is only one washer inside, do you move the washer all the way?
I am asking this because I was not able to screw Watts-298 all the way to the washer. There is a gap (you can see it on the first picture in my first post) between Watts-298 and washer where you can see the teflon tape.
I do not know how you were able to screw it all the way to the washer.
 
I don't know what you mean by 'move the washer all the way'.

Basically you need enough washers so that you can screw it tight, it doesn't really matter too much whether they're inside or outside as long as you can screw the inside barb on so that you have some good force against the cooler wall.. Maybe the brass nipple you got is a little long for your cooler so you need a lot of washers. It's kind of hard to tell what's going on though without actual pictures... it'd also help if you call them 'nipple' and 'hose barb' instead of 'Watts 298'.
 
With my build, the initial washers that I bought didn't fit over the unthreaded part of the nipple. This caused the nipple to move forward and backward. I had to buy different washers that fit over they unthreaded portion of the nipple (slightly larger inside diameter). Both washers were sold as the same size, but the inside diameters varied. This allowed me to tighten everything properly with no leaks.

I don't completely understand your issue, but I thought this might help.
 
barbu.jpg


I marked on the picture where the teflon tape is still visible. The washer cannot go any further. It reached the flat middle. And I cannot screw the nipple further either. All the people seem to have just one washer on the pictures. So I am confused as to why it is not working for me and what I need to do.
 
With my build, the initial washers that I bought didn't fit over the unthreaded part of the nipple. This caused the nipple to move forward and backward. I had to buy different washers that fit over they unthreaded portion of the nipple (slightly larger inside diameter). Both washers were sold as the same size, but the inside diameters varied. This allowed me to tighten everything properly with no leaks.

I don't completely understand your issue, but I thought this might help.

If I understood you correctly, I have to get washers that will go over that flat/unthreaded part of the nipple?
 
That is correct. Some of the unthreaded part of the nipple should be protruding through to the outside of the cooler.
 
mattyb85 said:
I'm not sure if I posted this in here before but I bought the weld-less bulkhead and 3 piece valve from brewhardware.com to make mine and didn't need any washers or use the original rubber washer. Works like a charm

After searching the depo for about an hour not finding the parts I needed or the parts just not being in stock I took you advice and went to brewhardware.com I couldn't be happier well worth the money and I got it in the mail 2 days later works perfectly!
 
I tried the HD route first but to me buying 4 pieces (not including mash screen) is much better than buying a whole bunch and needing to use washers and stuff to make it for right
 
If I understood you correctly, I have to get washers that will go over that flat/unthreaded part of the nipple?

As others have said, and in my experience, yes.

Some people have used the build-a-bolt kits sold at Home Depot and/or Lowe's with success. I found the washers I needed at a local fastner store that typically caters to contractors. If you have one of these stores in your area, I'd give them a try. And bring the nipple piece with you. Good luck, finding the correct washers is the hardest part.
 
Yup, I just happen to have a friend at a hardware distributor whose wife works with my wife. I call him with numbers, he pulls it, takes it home, wife to wife, back home to me. Love it. I buy what I can on my own but if it is stainless, big, or an odd size he is my go to guy.
 
I just finished my mash-tun. Followed the original directions. Got my washers at Fastenal. These would not fit over the middle (flat non grooved center part) of the nipple but held firm at the shoulder. This did not cause a problem. I used two washers on the inside and three on the outside. I used the original rubber seal on the inside of the nipple and two of the O ring gaskets on the outside of the nipple. Then I held the inside of the nipple with a wrench and tightened the outside of the nipple with a wrench. Worked like a charm. No leak whatsoever even loaded up to 10 gallons. Firm fittings, no wiggle, nice. Thank you to Fly Guy the OP and everyone for hints along the way. Like go to Fastenal for your washers. Hope to brew first All Grain this weekend.
 
yup thanks to the OP.... i made this Mash tun and have used it 20+ times and it has never leaked a single drop!! These are great plans!
 
So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?
 
bbriscoe said:
So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?

Look on craigslist i just found one for 15.00
 
If you are patient you can find deals.

I bought my 10 gallon Igloo at a garage sale for a buck. It's beat up and ugly, but it did the job. I ended up getting a second when my local Lowe's put the 10 gal Rubbermade coolers on sale for $28. I really didn't need it, but couldn't pass up the price...
 
Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.
 
Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.

Maybe one of those rubber Strapwrench dealies? Or you can get pliers with rubber jaw covers that won't tear up the brass.
 
Thanks to you guys I was able to make it.

Inside (1) stainless steal washer I get at fastenal. I saw them at Menards as well.
3 washers that come outside (these are not stainless steal) and they fit over the middle part I found at ACE.

I hope this might be useful.
 
It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?
 
It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?

This probably belongs in a new thread. I don't believe that most all-grain recipes are written for a 3 vessel recirculating system. Yes, some recipes have multiple stage rests, but single infusion rests are also very prevalant and used in many craft breweries. Recipes calling for multiple stage rests can be converted to a single infusion rest, usually with very similar results.

Regarding your issue of temperature loss and strike water calculation, I find the calculation used in the beersmith software to be fairly accurate. Adding water one quart at a time seems tedious and probably leads to the temperature swings you're experiencing. If you're mashing at 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain, then you should heat 18.75 quarts to the correct temperature and add your grain to the entire volume of strike water. Then, stir your grain and when you're at your desired rest temperature, close the lid to the mash tun. If you add water to the grain slowly, then the room temperature grains are going to have a greater affect on the strike water temperature; decreasing the water temperature more than if the grain were added to a larger volume of water. This is probably the reason your calculations are off (I'd also calibrate your thermometers). Every calculator I've seen assumes the grains are added to the entire strike water volume. I hope this helps.
 
BeerSmith (I don't use it, but from reading others' accounts) has equipment profiles that should allow you to not only set the temp of the grain, but the temp of the equipment (unless it's using grain temp to figure equipment temp, too), however...

I've found that trying to hit it square on the nose the first time with no room for error is incredibly difficult and has repercussions if you don't hit the mark. I've long since started overshooting strike temps considerably, stirring the water (before adding grain) down to ABOVE the prescribed strike temp (ie. heat to 185, move water to mash tun, stir to 170 if strike temp calls for 167) and then doughing-in (adding grain) and stirring until temp drops to desired mash temp. This is simply the best way to make sure you don't undershoot it. Adding boiling water in the proper amount, quickly, to raise a mash temp is very difficult unless you keep it on hand in large quantities, already boiling. You won't denature beta amylase in the 5 minutes it takes to stir down from 157 to 154, anyways.
 
Yeah, my problem is that I've always dumped the grain in first then added water. And yes, I've been there where the mash came in too low and I couldn't raise it so I overshot this time - maybe by too much !. I'll have to change my SOP next time. Thanks for the idea!
 
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