How to keep braid from floating?

I've seen some posts on this forum in the past showing how to keep a SS Braid from floating, but can't seem to find them. If anybody can post the links, I would appreciate it.

Does a floating braid really have a big effect on efficiency?

I use a "T" fitting with a barb on each side. No floating braids here!

I don't have pictures, but what I did was attach a 3/8" barbed nipple to the other end of the braid, then used a threaded cap on the end of that. The braid stays put nicely.

off subject...

I just did my first partial last night and was wondering on the cleaning process for my mash/lauter tun. Do I need to take everything apart and wash it or just run hot water through it a few time?

I cemented a little block of acrylic to the far side of the cooler so that I could screw in a little plastic cable clamp to hold the braid. You have to be careful you don't snag it too hard with your mash paddle though. I stretched my braid out quite a bit one, but luckily it was easy to form back to normal.

Here's another solution (and a thread with some other ideas)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=25025

I coiled a length of copper wire to look like a spring and inserted this into my braid.
The extra weight holds the braid down and the coil strenghtens the braid.

boo boo said:

I coiled a length of copper wire to look like a spring and inserted this into my braid.
The extra weight holds the braid down and the coil strenghtens the braid.

Click to expand...

Copper wire can be found at a Lowes/HD I take it? Liek copper electrical wiring? Good idea!

Here's a couple more:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=22472

I did come across the thread where the acrylic was afixed to the inside of the cooler and the braid was clamped to it.

What type of acrylic do you believe was used? Is it food grade, rated for high temps., and safe for the mash?

It's just a scrap piece of acrylic but I would have used anything except for PVC. The melting point of acrylic is 265F so I'm not concerned. If you don't mind making the conversion permanent, just cement the cable clamp down directly. As long as you find a cement that agrees with both materials, you're good to go.

That sounds good. I'll check the properties on my little bottle of Gorilla Glue.

I connected the braid to a SS false bottom. The whole thing does double duty and it works great. Did four AGs so far and haven't had any problems with this set up.

How are you keeping a siphon with a braid as your false bottom connection? I don't understand. Why use both?

I just took a spare hose clamp I had laying around and tightened it around the other end. Granted I haven't really got down in there during a mash but I haven't seen it float up...

So which method did you pick to use?

Braid floating is a real problem when you use it to inject steam into the mash.

I put a piece of copper wire in mine to make it rigid. See my gallery for pictures.

Dude said:

Copper wire can be found at a Lowes/HD I take it? Liek copper electrical wiring? Good idea!

Click to expand...

You can buy the shortest/cheapest length of 12/2 indoor wiring from HD or Lowes. Inside are 3 wires, one is the bare copper ground. Cheap and easy.

You may be able to find it by its self, but if your are a DIY'er around the house, the rest of the wire will be used at some point.

Ryan_PA said:

You can buy the shortest/cheapest length of 12/2 indoor wiring from HD or Lowes. Inside are 3 wires, one is the bare copper ground. Cheap and easy.

You may be able to find it by its self, but if your are a DIY'er around the house, the rest of the wire will be used at some point.

Click to expand...

Thanks. What I ended up doing was buying some stainless steel springs from Mcmaster-carr. You just slide the springs right into the braid. The springs are pretty heavy and add considerable weight to the braid. This should work. I'll test it next week.