Ebay RIMS is tested and works!!!! (Super Budget Build)

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Zamial

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Yep, you read that right. I built a SUPER budget RIMS system. This thing works fantastic on its 1st brew day(Technically I am still brewing need to add more hops in 15 minutes!)

Pics? Yes, after I am all done brewing I will post some. Parts list? Yes that too.

The super simple description is: I mounted a ELD 110v hot water heater element into a 2" SS Tee. The wort comes in from the other side of the tee and then exits out the top. It then goes through a 1/2" SS cross that has 2 3/8" compression fittings and exsits the top. The compression fittings hold the SS tube that has the probe/sensor that is filled with JB weld and then goes into the silicon tubing. (This makes it so the wort does not pass across the JB weld.

It took 55F water to 112F all by itself in 15 minutes. I use it with my propane burners and I got hose temp water to strike temps in 15 minutes! From strike to boiling in 15 more. Once boiling, I turned it off and let the propane run, I did not like all the air bubbles in the line from the boiling wort and the pump was not really happy pumping boiling wort.

Many people here said this could/should not work. I am here to tell you it does just fine. :D

G2G add more hops be back later.
 
Parts list:

All Stainless Steel:

1 - 2" Tee
1 - 2" to 1" reducer/bushing
2 - 2" to 1/2 reducer/bushing
1 - 1/2" nipple
1 - 1/2" cross
2 - 1/2" to 3/8" compression fittings

(You will also need either 2 - 1/2" hose barbs or Quick disconnects.)

1 - Extra Low Density 120V / 1500 watt water heater element (I think it is 4" long I did NOT measure it and to do so would require me taking apart the RIMS tube which is a PITA to do so prob not gonna happen.)

1 - Control box
1 - 110v outlet, cover plate & box
1 - STC-1000 AKA The Ebay controller
2 - 110v 20amp switches.
1 - 110v 30amp multicolor switch red/green
2 - electric "home security" wire blocks

Multiple different solderless connectors and some good wire.

I had an old computer that I salvaged the 3 prong plug input from and the power cord from a server. :)

That is about it for parts.

As for the build and pics, you may want to brace yourself. I am NOT a master craftsmen and almost all of my equipment is designed to work, not be pretty. I also am NOT a photographer... :p

This is a decent shot of the RIMS tube with the thermo well.
DSCF2448.jpg


This is my control box: I bought it at Goodwill for $2 and I had the plexi glass left over from a different project. I use 1 switch as a main power switch, 1 switch for the pump, and the multi-color switch for the RIMS element.
DSCF2441.jpg


This is the electric box. I broke the tabs off the outlet so that each one is separate, I feared drawing to much on either side may be hard on the controller and wires.
DSCF2445.jpg


Security blocks. I show 3 in the pic. There is no ground wires needed for anything other than the outlet so it was a waste. 20/20 hindsight...
DSCF2444.jpg


This is my overall shot. Note the smaller kettle is not mine.
DSCF2452.jpg


The STC-1000, when the element can be turned on, powers the bi-colored switch and it will light up red, when I turn it on it turns green. This makes it easier to instantly know what is happening.

FWIW I run the system off a 20 circuit.

SPECIAL NOTE: I am in no way saying that a thermo couple, PID and controller is on par with this. That is the correct way to build a RIMS system. What I have works and is MUCH cheaper but it is not perfect, if you stray away from my build this may not work for you, IMO you absolutely must use an ELD element, no exceptions! I am not responsible for anyone that is burned, electrocuted or starts a fire with this set-up.

I would like to thank the people that posted up all the great articles here on RIMS systems, I have probably read them all. Truly invaluable and inspiring!
 
My dopplebock seems to have turned out great! I was about 1 hour behind my friends that came over to brew that day as well. I used the least amount of propane I ever have and am confident that the bottle neck in my system has now moved to something else.
 
So, if my calculations are right, that heating element is 13.64 amps and the stc-1000 has relays rated at 10A?

Sounds like something I might not want to try for extended periods!

EDIT: Sorry, not meant to bash or anything. Just pointing out something that might be destined for failure. I think this is still do-able if you trip a separate, higher rated relay with the STC-1000... SSR would be ideal.
 
So, if my calculations are right, that heating element is 13.64 amps and the stc-1000 has relays rated at 10A?

Sounds like something I might not want to try for extended periods!

EDIT: Sorry, not meant to bash or anything. Just pointing out something that might be destined for failure. I think this is still do-able if you trip a separate, higher rated relay with the STC-1000... SSR would be ideal.

Those stats are are horrible, and written in Engrish. The reality that I believe is as follows: The circuit was designed to run on 220v @ 10a. This means that the circuits should be able to handle 110v to around 20a. I do not think I would want to try to draw 20a from the STC-1000. Also the heating element is rated to the high side. I also believe that the ELD draws less at a time but I could be wrong.

None of the wires get warm or hot to the touch so I am declaring it safe at this point. I will have more brew days in the future and will continue to report back with success or failures.

I fully am aware that it is not a good idea to second guess electrical ratings but in this case, I have proven it works just fine. I have run the element "on" for 20-25 minutes straight and while it does get a little warm (to be expected) it does not get hot.
 
Those stats are are horrible, and written in Engrish. The reality that I believe is as follows: The circuit was designed to run on 220v @ 10a. This means that the circuits should be able to handle 110v to around 20a. I do not think I would want to try to draw 20a from the STC-1000. Also the heating element is rated to the high side. I also believe that the ELD draws less at a time but I could be wrong.

None of the wires get warm or hot to the touch so I am declaring it safe at this point. I will have more brew days in the future and will continue to report back with success or failures.

I fully am aware that it is not a good idea to second guess electrical ratings but in this case, I have proven it works just fine. I have run the element "on" for 20-25 minutes straight and while it does get a little warm (to be expected) it does not get hot.

not trying to start an argument, just sharing...
when a device is rated for AMPs, thats the rating. the voltage will change the total POWER in a system, but the heat dissipated in any one component relies exclusively on the amps, and the resistivity of that component. safety guidelines dictate that thses things are usually underrated, so they may safely handle more then the 10 amps it says, but its important to understand that you should not assume 10A @ 220 V mans that that 20A @ 110v is safe.
 
not trying to start an argument, just sharing...
when a device is rated for AMPs, thats the rating. the voltage will change the total POWER in a system, but the heat dissipated in any one component relies exclusively on the amps, and the resistivity of that component. safety guidelines dictate that thses things are usually underrated, so they may safely handle more then the 10 amps it says, but its important to understand that you should not assume 10A @ 220 V mans that that 20A @ 110v is safe.

NP. I was not trying to say it was. I guess that I really wanted a RIMS system but had a very limited budget. I had an extra STC-1000 laying around so I gave it a go based on some decent research and the fact that the unit is designed to run a heater.

I also understand what you are saying as well as the power ratings involved. I also did a fair share of computer overclocking and customization. I am still using the same computer that I overclocked to fairly incredible stats 6 years later and it is still better than most new computer towers you can walk into a store and buy today.

It is entirely possible that the life span of the STC-1000 will be shortened but that is why I am going to use it until it dies. If I get 2 more full brew sessions out of it it will still be cheaper than a propane bottle refill to replace... I suspect that I will get MANY brew sessions as it is only in use a short period of time a few days a month.

The bottom line is this is working and I feel it is an excellent entry point into RIMS on a tight budget. I can always buy a thermocouple, SSR and PID later if I want to move further into the world of electric brewing. For now, at least, I am 100% satisfied with this build.
 
1
If used for long periods of time the heat produced will eventually wield the contacts together where the spring in the relay will not be able to release it.
2
If it is cycled often the sparks produced will scar the contacts where it eventually will not make contact.

Avoid these two things and it should work fine for a long while.
If it is a UL or CSA device it is probably underrated anyway.

Other than that it looks like a solid build.
A few questions:

Have you inspected your element after the first run?
I would be curious if you caramelized any wort on it with the design that you chose.
You will have more contact time with the element.

Does the element have a SS base?
Mine is developing rust after just a few uses. I remove it after every brew now; clean and dry it. Plan on coating it with some keg lube to stop the rust. Looking for a new one if anyone has suggestions.
 
1
If used for long periods of time the heat produced will eventually wield the contacts together where the spring in the relay will not be able to release it.
2
If it is cycled often the sparks produced will scar the contacts where it eventually will not make contact.

Avoid these two things and it should work fine for a long while.
If it is a UL or CSA device it is probably underrated anyway.

Other than that it looks like a solid build.
A few questions:

Have you inspected your element after the first run?
I would be curious if you caramelized any wort on it with the design that you chose.
You will have more contact time with the element.

Does the element have a SS base?
Mine is developing rust after just a few uses. I remove it after every brew now; clean and dry it. Plan on coating it with some keg lube to stop the rust. Looking for a new one if anyone has suggestions.

Thanks. I have not inspected the element. It is difficult to get this thing together with no leaks and I am not wanting to open it up at this time.

I did make a dopplebock so if there was any carmalization I would not have detected it very well. In a few days I am planning on making an Oktoberfest and a 100% Pilsen malt French Saison. I suspect that it will be easy to tell if my Pilsen malt is/gets scorched.

My impression of how the STC-1000 and the ELD element works is that the ELD does not seem to power up really fast like a standard element will. I believe this is why it is possible to dry fire an ELD and not burn the element out. I really think this is a key factor to how it all works together. I will be very surprised if I am scorching wort, the wort seems to move through the system pretty fast.
 
Just food for thought... If this controller is designed to be cycled on and off very often, presumably more than a compressor why would the contact weld themselves open or closed? That line of thought doesn't sound right to me.

I also just made a Kolsh and an Oktoberfest. While the O-fest would be hard to tell any scorching/caramelization flavors my Kolsh was not. It was the lightest color of yellow of any beer I have ever made and there was NO scorched/burnt taste at all. FWIW the Kolsh wort smelled and tasted unworldly good...
 
I have brewed 2 more batches of beer with this and it is still working with no issues and will be brewing a batch tomorrow. The Kolsh I brewed is now on tap and I do not detect any off flavors like scorched wort.

Also, I finally got my 2 needed quick disconnects so I was able to fully inspect the element today. While it does not look as it did when it was brand new, it does not have scorched wort on it, or inside the tube anywhere that I could see and I got a GOOD look at it through the openings where I put the QD's. It would have been impossible to snap a pic of the inside of it which is why there is not a pic. If I ever crack this bad boy all the way open, I will snap a pic but I have no plans to do so at this time.

I seem to be able to raise the temp of 13 gallons of water roughly by 1-1.5F a minute. I do understand that this is not as fast as a full blown RIMS setup would do the job but it is 2x faster than propane alone.
 
Just food for thought... If this controller is designed to be cycled on and off very often, presumably more than a compressor why would the contact weld themselves open or closed? That line of thought doesn't sound right to me.
Because it is designed to cycle on and off with a <10A load.
It is not designed to operate above its rated load. Heat is generated at the contractors when they slam shut; the surface area of the contractor must be large enough to dissipate this heat. I had this happen on a motor control centers with very expensive switch gear as well as small cube relays. Most recently I found a 1.5A relay being used on a 2A solenoid; I had to tap it with a screwdriver a few times to get it to let go. Relay was ruined; not sure how long it had been sticky like this but it has been in operation for for a few years. Contacts were solid black and extremely thin.
 
I made a similar RIMS but used longer pipe and a 1650 LWD 120V element. I opened up my STC-1000 and the relays are labeled 120V 15A.

I am converting mine to use an SSR since all my controls are going that route. I also included a 15A breaker in my STC-1000 controller build...and a manual on/off on the heat side so I can power off the element in case of pump failure or fluid loss in the tube.
 
Have you hooked the element it up to a power meter or used a multimeter to see what the actual draw (amps) is? Just from spot checking a few things that should run at a rated wattage (space heater..etc), they are all lower than what is rated.
 
Have you hooked the element it up to a power meter or used a multimeter to see what the actual draw (amps) is? Just from spot checking a few things that should run at a rated wattage (space heater..etc), they are all lower than what is rated.

I have not but this was my theory...I guessed that the element drew under 15A and the STC-1000 could handle 15A plus a little. The truth is it IS a heating/cooling controller and it was built for an extremely similar purpose. I am plenty pleased with how mine works, it is more of a "smart heatstick" than a true RIMS system but it does the job plenty good on the beer I drink.
 
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