Anybody have experience with paving?

I need to have my driveway replaced. I had someone here this morning for an estimate. To pull up the current 1,300 sf driveway, regrade and repave everything and redo some poorly installed drainage, the estimate was $5,200. I was expecting about double that, but I have no experience with such things and was wondering if this is a decent estimate.

I have two more companies coming out tomorrow so I can contrast and compare.

I'm doing work on my garages right now and my contractor's quote was $3.5/ft^2 for prepping and pouring the aprons (the pads are $3.25/ft^2 + cost for insulation, vapor barrier and wire/fiber mesh). That'd put you at $4550 + removal. $650 isn't bad for pulling out that much concrete.

I'd say that it's a pretty good price.

Does that include seal coat? If so that is a very good deal.
AP

I thought so but was looking for opinions. Thanks.
My driveway is asphalt, don't know if that makes a difference. They would have to rebuild a fairly substantial apron that's collapsing on a downhill grade, too. Removal was quoted at $750.

No seal coat on the proposal. But they are talking 17 tons of processed gravel, topsoil, seed and hay for the apron rebuild. Considering they have to remove the drain pipe, connect it to another existing one and place the pipe to daylight about 15 feet from where it currently sits, I'm stunned at the quote. Don't know if I can do better.

Back a few years ago when I built houses, we paid $1.50/SF for asphalt driveways. That doesn't include all the other stuff you need (tear-out, apron, etc.). That's also a low price in general because it was the price the general contractor paid to the paving subcontractor... the sub got a lot of work from the GC, so the price is sort of contingent on that. But it might give you an idea of costs.

The $3.5/ft^2 I mentioned before was for concrete, asphalt should be less.

Seems a bit high, but my prices are based in AK so I could be way off. A second quote never hurts.

Expect to pay around $4/SF for a 5-inch thick concrete driveway and about $1/SF for removal of the old driveway. For a 1,300 SF driveway this would come out to be about $6,500. If you can get it for $5,200 it looks like you are getting a deal, but make sure the contractor does good work. Bad concrete contractors = bad concrete work.

Where we are asphalt is actually not less than concrete. I have been told it has something to do with less plants making asphalt than concrete. Generaly now when we have to tear out asphalt for jobs we go back with concrete because it is about 20% cheaper for us & meets all the codes we need to meet.

Paid 4800 for my asphalt Driveway. Concrete would have been much much more. I kind wish I had done Concrete

Pay a little extra for the seal coat the first time, then every 2-3 years you can redo the seal coat yourself. Simple job if you know how to drive a broom and squeegie. This will keep the asphalt looking new and will keep any water from seeping thru. You will greatly extend the life of the asphalt if you do this.
I prefer asphalt over concrete, mainly for it's flexability. Once the concrete starts cracking you are in for a lot of $$ for repairs compared to asphalt.
If you lived in SoCal you would see what I mean. All these tiny little earthquakes we have causes mega settling and cracking of concrete.
AP

Asphalt all the way, especially in New England. Much more forgiving in terms of repairs. Between the snow in the winter, the frost heaves, rain and some heat in the summer, concrete would get mangled quickly.

Plus, I like the way my basketball bounces off the asphalt better. Life has priorities, you know.

We pave driveways up in Western Mass., for the work you describe that quote sounds about right.

I'm reviving this to ask another question.
It has been five weeks now since the old driveway was pulled up and the gravel was put down. I believe they should have paved it by now and I'm getting pissed.

Fortunately, I haven't paid them a dime yet. The question: should I threaten to go to another company to have them pave it or is 5 weeks a normal amount of time to let things settle? Seems about 2 weeks too long to me.

How much has it been raining? Putting hot asphalt on wet rock is asking for trouble. Otherwise, in this economy, no excuse. Maybe one, if the contractor is strapped for cash, he might be having trouble paying for the materials up front. Happens all to often. Maybe offering to pay for the work done will get you to the top of the list.

david_42 said:

How much has it been raining? Putting hot asphalt on wet rock is asking for trouble. Otherwise, in this economy, no excuse. Maybe one, if the contractor is strapped for cash, he might be having trouble paying for the materials up front. Happens all to often. Maybe offering to pay for the work done will get you to the top of the list.

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Tons of rain early in the summer, next to nothing the last few weeks. Good idea on paying. I'll give that a shot.

If the bed has sat for 5 weeks and it has rained on it you could have soft spots, this is the death of asphalt. If any water has accumulated rather than drained off ask for a proof roll before they start paving to check compaction and they should put a smooth roller on it rather than just let it "settle" naturally.

Any experience with paving? Darn, I thought this was going to be a thread about falling down walking home from the pub. All I can tell you is that paving, when viewed from very close quarters looks a lot like blood.

shecky said:

I'm reviving this to ask another question.
It has been five weeks now since the old driveway was pulled up and the gravel was put down. I believe they should have paved it by now and I'm getting pissed.

Fortunately, I haven't paid them a dime yet. The question: should I threaten to go to another company to have them pave it or is 5 weeks a normal amount of time to let things settle? Seems about 2 weeks too long to me.

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I just had a driveway installed. 10 inch item 4 base compacted with a huge roller like they use on the highway. they left it for 6 weeks and told me to drive on it and park on it . When they came back they filled in several low spots and put down 5" after compaction. Its better to let it sit and then fill in low areas.
they did the same for me when I built my garage in 01 this drive is on the other side of the garage. Not a crack or sink in the driveway. And I park a trailer and my 3500 on it sometimes loaded with gravel or dirt. Last time i tipped the scales at 12000 +

springer said:

I just had a driveway installed. 10 inch item 4 base compacted with a huge roller like they use on the highway. they left it for 6 weeks and told me to drive on it and park on it . When they came back they filled in several low spots and put down 5" after compaction. Its better to let it sit and then fill in low areas.
they did the same for me when I built my garage in 01 .. Not a crack or sink in the driveway. And I park a trailer and my 3500 on it sometimes loaded with gravel or dirt. Last time i tipped the scales at 12000 +

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I guess I'm just getting impatient. The base they installed is full of glass shards and rusted pieces of metal. I fear my kids will find one of those things embedded in their skin somewhere.

shecky said:

I guess I'm just getting impatient. The base they installed is full of glass shards and rusted pieces of metal. I fear my kids will find one of those things embedded in their skin somewhere.

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WHAT!!! What the hell did they use recycled pavement that they grind up when they repave the roads ? The base I got was the regular crusher stone dust with gravel . maybe thats why the cheap price I paid 3500 for 900 +/- sq foot . no driveway was there to remove just some dirt.

Laughing_Gnome_Invisible said:

Any experience with paving? All I can tell you is that paving, when viewed from very close quarters looks a lot like blood.

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Ha, I know for a fact that 57th street in Manhattan, when viewed up close, looks like blood.

I'm in the process of getting quotes on my drive, 1100 sq ft, currently with a old broken up asphalt driveway. Two estimates came back, $6800 and $7200 yikes! I got an estimate on asphalt at $3000. I want to go concrete but those prices just hurt.

Nothing quite like walking on freshly laid asphalt. Its like being in an oil sauna with all your clothes on. On the other hand, SWMBO appreciates that I don't come home smelling like an oil refinery any more.

Concrete, you generally want 6" thick. Any thinner and you risk having cracking and a shortened pavement life because of load caused cracking.

I'd ask the contractor to show you where in his bid estimate that there would be trash and crap in the base course. If he can't show it to you, I'd demand that it be removed and replaced. Glass and metal will create point loads in the bottom of the concrete and cause cracks to start at the bottom and work their way up to the surface.

Asphalt is cheaper, but you'll end up patching or replacing it twice as often.

Beernik said:

Nothing quite like walking on freshly laid asphalt. Its like being in an oil sauna with all your clothes on. On the other hand, SWMBO appreciates that I don't come home smelling like an oil refinery any more.

Concrete, you generally want 6" thick. Any thinner and you risk having cracking and a shortened pavement life because of load caused cracking.

I'd ask the contractor to show you where in his bid estimate that there would be trash and crap in the base course. If he can't show it to you, I'd demand that it be removed and replaced. Glass and metal will create point loads in the bottom of the concrete and cause cracks to start at the bottom and work their way up to the surface.

Asphalt is cheaper, but you'll end up patching or replacing it twice as often.

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Problem is, I don't know whether the crap is from what they laid down or what was already under there. I'll do what you suggest, however.

My driveway is scheduled to be done Wednesday. I won't hold my breath.

They should have laid a 4" or 6" base course. That should be thick enough to cover anything that might have been buried in the ground when they cut down for the driveway.

If it was in your soil, they did a bad job of laying the base and mixed too much of your soil into it for it to be a proper base course anymore and they should replace it.

Also, if he argues that it was already in your soil, ask him do dig a hole about a foot away from the base course and prove to you that its already there in your soil.

I think its more likely that it was in the imported base course.

I'm biased because I've always worked as an inspector representing the owner's interests. But I've found some contractors only do good work when they are constantly watched and harassed into doing good work. Take lots of pictures and notes about what they are doing. If you have any problems, that's what you need to negotiate a resolution.

Now I'm more than a bit perturbed. I was told last week that I was scheduled to have my driveway paved today and that I would get a confirmation email during the weekend.

Of course, no email ever came and the only thing in my driveway right now is a bunch of blowing leaves. I have called and registered a major complaint but the only response I received was, 'We're sorry, but the weather has backed us up.'

Yes, it rained a lot this summer. But we haven't had substantial rain in weeks. So my response was, 'I get some satisfaction within the next week or I call somebody else to do it and you don't get paid squat for doing the base.'

We'll see what happens.

Oh, and they also said it would be illegal not to pay for work done. However, I have documented, on beernik's suggestion, the glass and other crap. I said, 'My wife's a lawyer. My only fees would be court fees, so go right ahead and see how far you get with that.'

I'm sorry they are still jerking you around. Good luck.