Here is the email I sent to them when they asked for more pics and a more detailed description. Hopefully it holds thier interest.
XXXXX,
Thank you (and your magazine) for your interest in my rig! It has been an ongoing evolution from a simple 5 gallon Rubbermaid AG system that I used in my kitchen, with water heated on the stove... to an all electric HERMS that utilizes 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers and a 15.5 gallon Sankey for the BK.
Here is a brief description of the major components:
HLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to HERMS HEX with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom as many commercial models leak). It consists of a 1500W 120VAC heating element that is controlled by a Johnson A419 controller that is mounted to the cooler itself. I fashioned my own stopper/thermo well that passes through the lid and sourced parts for a 120VAC HLT stirrer. The HLT HEX contains 25' of 1/2" copper tubing (a modified pre-chiller) that is outfitted with brass QDs. It also sports a custom through the wall digital thermometer (my solution to leaky commercial models). ALL plumbing on my rig is 1/2", the flow rates are far superior to 3/8" plumbing. This vessel is used for strike water, sparge water, HERMS re circulation to hold mash temps and used to heat the mash to mashout temps.
MLT: 10 Gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler converted to a MLT with a 1/2" ball valve bulkhead (custom), SS false bottom, through the wall digital thermometer (custom) and a HERMS/FLY sparge return line that is plumbed through the lid for superior heat retention. Mash temps are maintained within .5F during any length of mash.
BK: 15.5 gallon (legal) Sankey keg that has been converted to an E-Keggle. It is outfitted with a 1/2" ball valve, custom pick-up tube, 5500W ULWD heating element and thermocouple.
Software: This rig, as in any rig, has specific temperature differentials, fluid loss, heating times etc. In order to manage all of these aspects I created a spreadsheet that asks the brewer for specific information about the brew. Strike temps, volumes etc. are entered and crucial values are computed for the brewer to manage the system during the brew session. This allows the brewer to effectively plan HLT water quantities, temps and view resultant heating times that may be of concern when step mashing.
All of the components are powered through a custom 240VAC control panel that I built. It consists of a PID and SSR for the E-Keggle heating control. It also contains switched outlets for the HLT and March 809 pump on my rig. It also contains a "kill" switch that will kill both legs of power to the E-Keggle heating element regardless of what the PID and SSR command.
The E-Keggle heating element is my own design, with a fully insulated collar and entirely potted electrical connections, making it safe for use on a boil kettle where boil overs can happen. It can be submerged in water with no voltage leak.
All liquid connections are made with brass QDs.
My design philosophy all along has been simplicity, efficiency, affordability and repeatability. I have built my own bulkheads and through the wall thermometers for affordability and reliability reasons. When possible I have sourced components to build items needed for this rig in lieu of purchasing commercial components when cost and design allowed.
I am a member of Homebrewtalk.com and have posted loads of information about my build over the past couple years as it evolved. (instructions, part numbers, suppliers, design philosophy, cost etc) Currently there are several other members building exact replicas of my system, one is actually brewing on it already. I have been tech support for these guys and provided them with the software to run this rig effectively in their own garages.
I will attach some photos, AND a link to my Photobucket account where you can see many more pictures. Please let me know if you have continued interest and if there is anything else you would like!
