Silver sodder coupling to keg?

Hey, anyone used pure silver rod to sodder their full coupling's to thier kettles? Silver is food grade and instead of TIG , wich if you can't DIY is expensive, a pure silver sodder and Oxy Ac Torch would work ....right? Roughly 10$ for the rod, which I figure would do 2 kegs, is fairly cheap. Any advise, comment's.

No reason you can't do that, but make sure you have a really good flux. Stainless is hard to "wet" when brazing/soldering.

Just the man I was looking for. O great 1, thank you for your input. The flux part is all figured out. The rod has it's own. Got this idea from my uncle who ran moon shine and built all SS stills. What should I look for when doing a job like this.

I'd suggest getting some water soluble silver solder flux to supplement the stuff on the rod. Clean everything REALLY well (sand with ~400 grit sandpaper), and be GENTLE with the heat - those kettles are pretty thin. Stick to stainless fittings exclusively, but I wouldn't get too excited about the alloy/composition of them. Good luck!

what could go wrong as far as the composition? Melting? I have 304 SS couplings.

gabe said:

what could go wrong as far as the composition? Melting? I have 304 SS couplings.

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Nothing when soldering (that I know of - perhaps 316 would be slightly more difficult just because it's more corrosion resistant). That's why I said don't worry about it. When welding it's more important since you're actually melting the substrate material.

Ok so I will try this on 1 keg and see how it go's. I want to drill my hole as close to the dia of my coupling as I can so I can get a tight fit. Have you soddered SS B4 any pointers as far as how fast or slow I should go. and what should my torch flame look like? Cutting setting or long blue flame? Thanx Yuri.

gabe said:

Ok so I will try this on 1 keg and see how it go's. I want to drill my hole as close to the dia of my coupling as I can so I can get a tight fit. Have you soddered SS B4 any pointers as far as how fast or slow I should go. and what should my torch flame look like? Cutting setting or long blue flame? Thanx Yuri.

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Never soldered or brazed stainless - only read about it. Since I have the TIG machine, I just weld the stuff. Agreed about the tight fit - the closer the tolerance, the better. For the flame, DEFINITELY not a cutting flame. Start with a soft blue flame, just above a carburizing setting. You can always turn the heat up, but it's hard to undo heat damage.

Thanx will give it a go. Cheers