chassis punch keggle?

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buffalobrewer

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I'm thinking about going electric and am getting my parts/procedure all lined up. Has anybody used a chassis punch to make a hole in a converted keg (I already have them) like they do to this kettle? Just not sure it will handle the thicker material.

thanks

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I have considered those also. How well does the punch and die fit the curve of the keg? I'd think that they should work well. But a hole saw works pretty good and you need a drill for the punch anyway.
 
I'm thinking about going electric and am getting my parts/procedure all lined up. Has anybody used a chassis punch to make a hole in a converted keg (I already have them) like they do to this kettle? Just not sure it will handle the thicker material.

thanks

I broke 2 of my greenlee knockouts . Tried a holesaw and now only use a step drill . Works great.
 
I used one to do a couple before and didn't have a problem. The key is to make sure the teeth are vertical with the keg, otherwise they don't go together very true and tend to deform the metal and or break.
 
I used one to do a couple before and didn't have a problem. The key is to make sure the teeth are vertical with the keg, otherwise they don't go together very true and tend to deform the metal and or break.

Bad case of "OverBite". I've seen idiots in the trade with a 4" KO set drill across a panel with one side single layer and the other the cutter on two layers. Bent arbor then a blown split die due to "OverBite". Idiots first class when a sheet of scrap to match the double thickness would of allowed a straight punch thru. Check the price of a GreenLee hydraulic set these days of 1/2" to 4". My set stays in the shop at home with one user, me, achet set included. The bad thing the KO set size does not match the coupling unless you lathe a step in the half couplings or make your own. Good N tight Fit is best Ya Ya!.
 
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