Marking A Siteglass?

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Sockmonkey

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Any recommendations for a good-looking method to mark a siteglass?

I spent a few hours using a P-Touch with clear labels to mark my siteglass by the quart. When it was done it looked absolutely fantastic and professional... until about 24 hours later when all the labels started falling off.

Suggestions?
 
Any recommendations for a good-looking method to mark a siteglass?

I spent a few hours using a P-Touch with clear labels to mark my siteglass by the quart. When it was done it looked absolutely fantastic and professional... until about 24 hours later when all the labels started falling off.

Suggestions?

What size glasses? Sabco offers pre-marked tubes for $30 a pair. I did the same as you and I am upgrading to the Sabco toobs.

Only, I marked mine up and down for additive and deductive quick reference. And I even used Rhino Exterior Extreme condition labels.
 
I took a corny post o-ring and an extra fine point sharpie and marked my polycarbonate in quarts. Then I put old o-rings at each gallon mark. I put a different colored one at the 5 and 10 gallon mark. Certainly not 100% professional but working fine so far.

Ed
 
I plan on utilizing the sharpie for my HLT when it gets built.

The o-ring makes a great edge to guide the sharpie. Just make sure the o-ring is relatively straight/level.

To "set" the volume, I put a measured amount of water in (a couple gallons I think) and drained it completely. The difference between what went in and what came out is the "dead" space. I left that in and started filling a quart at a time. It was about 2 gallons before it even appeared in my site glass. So my first marked "even" gallon is 3.

To measure dough-in water, you have to make sure you heat enough that you will be able to measure the last of it or add the exact amount needed and completely drain the hlt.

Ed
 
sorry to hijack, but does anyone else have any problems with their makings not staying accurate? mine seem to change over time, so i'm completely non-trusting of them.
 
Doggage: That looks really awesome, but I don't think I could be precise enough with it on my little siteglass. Plus, I'm not sure it would work on polycarbonate?

Gila: It's a 3/8" polycarbonate from Bargainfittings.com. I'll check out what Sabco has to see if it would work for my rig.

Ohio-Ed & Irregular: Sharpie may be what I end up with. I'm worried with my not-so-steady hands that I'll end up with something crappy looking. The o-ring guide is a good idea.
 
Doggage: I'm worried with my not-so-steady hands that I'll end up with something crappy looking.
Well luckily you're making a sight glass to let you know how much water is in your HLT and not a sculpture for art class :) But seriously. It's a sight glass, It doesn't ahve to be pretty unless you have a rig to rival Lehr's

Yeah, it looks like they're also pre-calibrated for sabco kettles.
They'd have to be calibrated for a specific kettle and a specific mounting height on the kettle.
 
They'd have to be calibrated for a specific kettle and a specific mounting height on the kettle.

Yes. They are. The top of the openingfor the guage assembly on the Sabco kettles is just below the 5 gallon line on their kettles. So, to install you need just slip the guage on, fill with 5 gallons, and adjust the quage to co-incide with teh water line. Kinda sucks for 5 gallon brews but is workable since the bottom line is typically a target post boil volume.
 
Well luckily you're making a sight glass to let you know how much water is in your HLT and not a sculpture for art class :) But seriously. It's a sight glass, It doesn't ahve to be pretty unless you have a rig to rival Lehr's.

I have to disagree... I don't have a rig anywhere that nice, but I do want what I'm making to look as nice as reasonably possible. The siteglass just happens to be something I'm picky about and completely understand that other folks may not be as picky about the siteglass on their own rig.

The sharpie or masking tape method are obvious, but I started a thread to see if anyone knew any tips for something that looks a bit better. :)
 
I have to disagree... I don't have a rig anywhere that nice, but I do want what I'm making to look as nice as reasonably possible. The siteglass just happens to be something I'm picky about and completely understand that other folks may not be as picky about the siteglass on their own rig.

The sharpie or masking tape method are obvious, but I started a thread to see if anyone knew any tips for something that looks a bit better. :)

I used the Sharpie/o-ring method on my current keggle and most of the folks I brew with think is pretty cool. It is very effective and doesn't look bad. However, I'm building a new system and would like a better way to mark the siteglass. If you come up with one, please let us know.

Ed
 
I lightly scored the siteglass with an exacto knife and then went over that with a sharpie. I'm figuring that the sharpie will fade/wash out over time and the score marks will be a little more permanent.
 
I used the Sharpie/o-ring method on my current keggle and most of the folks I brew with think is pretty cool. It is very effective and doesn't look bad. However, I'm building a new system and would like a better way to mark the siteglass. If you come up with one, please let us know.

Ed

I think I may give that a shot, maybe with what A4J recommended. I didn't mean to imply the sharpie method didn't look good... just what my sharpie method would probably end up looking like. :)
 
I didn't mean to imply the sharpie method didn't look good... just what my sharpie method would probably end up looking like. :)

No offense taken... as you can see my current keggle is not pretty. The sharpie method worked. The green o-ring is 5 gallons. For the next one, I'd like to dress it up a bit (I don't plan on even trying to make it perfect)...

Siteglass.jpg
 
No offense taken... as you can see my current keggle is not pretty. The sharpie method worked. The green o-ring is 5 gallons. For the next one, I'd like to dress it up a bit (I don't plan on even trying to make it perfect)...

Siteglass.jpg

I really like your oring method. i think it looks good, but I understand some people want more bling where others just want function. Neither way is right or wrong just personal preference. I want a beatiful rig someday as well, but will first build a functional one my finances can support. I'd love to just buy a sabco, or fly Lehr to my house for a month with his tools:)
 
You could calibrate it for your marks and then remove the tubing. Tape off and paint the black marks, let it dry and then over spray that with white paint. 75% rubbing Alcohol will remove permanent marker.

Depending on how well you can tape off the areas you could make it look very professional.
 
I really like your oring method. i think it looks good, but I understand some people want more bling where others just want function. Neither way is right or wrong just personal preference. I want a beatiful rig someday as well, but will first build a functional one my finances can support. I'd love to just buy a sabco, or fly Lehr to my house for a month with his tools:)

To be honest... I never intended any of my stuff to be reviewed/compared for aesthetics. The o-rings are so I can get a quick idea of the volume without counting lines. Someone else on HBT did this, it's not my original idea.
 
Aside from how I did mine (marking on the protective shroud), I'd put a sharpie dot at every half gallon increment, remove the tube and then wrap the whole tube at each dot with some automotive pin striping tape.
 
Got my BM sight glasses today.

Un-impressed. But, it does provide an idea for your dilemma.

It appears the gradients are simple printed onto a strip of clear adhesive film. So, if you have a guage already and the gradient are evenly spaced you could easily lay out the gradient marks on home PC software (gimp maybe) and print your own.

This simple expands on what you have laready done but, since it is one label and not dozens it should not exhibit the peeling you are having problems with.
 
sorry to hijack, but does anyone else have any problems with their makings not staying accurate? mine seem to change over time, so i'm completely non-trusting of them.

Because of this marking the actual sight glass is quite a bad idea IMO. If it's a threaded sight glass, if you take it out and put it back in you risk not screwing it in the exact same amount, I think the regular expanding and contracting with the heat probably affects it over time. If you change the glass you also have to recalibrate.

I got around this by marking the kettle instead of the glass. I bought a cheap engraving tool (about $10) and used that to mark the kettle every L.

Picture here.

Not the most pretty way to do it but seems to be working well so far.
 
You have to be sure that the vessel is generally level in all directions both when you calibrate and use it. If the pot is tilted away from the sight location even a small amount, it would read like 1/2 gallon lower than it really is.
 
You have to be sure that the vessel is generally level in all directions both when you calibrate and use it. If the pot is tilted away from the sight location even a small amount, it would read like 1/2 gallon lower than it really is.

+1

Good point. I carry shims when I brew somewhere else. I add enough water to get to the bottom weld of the keggle and try to adjust as best I can. At home I stick a level on top of the keggle... less that 5 minutes, done.

Bobby... there's a project for you... add a level to your keggle.

Ed
 
I was thinking of Nail Polish. Comes in many cool colors, handy brush. Just got to sneak it out without getting caught. Or buy my own. Could use pinstripe tape to make a nice line and paint then peel away the tape.

Not sure how the polish will hold up to cleaning. But worth a try, should be better than Sharpie.
 
Decided to try the o-ring / sharpie method today (since I have a bag of about 50 keg o-rings). Unfortunately, my siteglass is much smaller in diameter than the o-rings.

Maybe the pinstripe idea next...
 
+1

Good point. I carry shims when I brew somewhere else. I add enough water to get to the bottom weld of the keggle and try to adjust as best I can. At home I stick a level on top of the keggle... less that 5 minutes, done.

Bobby... there's a project for you... add a level to your keggle.

Ed

I had already planned on using some cheap line levels and epoxy-ing them to teh front and side of the brewstand. Just one of the many ideas that never quite materialized due to family life.
 
sorry to hijack, but does anyone else have any problems with their makings not staying accurate? mine seem to change over time, so i'm completely non-trusting of them.

huh? How is this possible? Maybe you used really hot water or cold water, or maybe you added or removed fittings.

For the record, I use very very thin strips of duct tape. They have been on for over a year now and I have never had an issue with them falling off. I suppose you could move them if the need arose.
 
I gave one very plausible reason. The vessel tilting slightly away or towards the sight tube location at various brew times. The vessel needs to be level during calibration and use.
 
I ended up using some 1/8" pinstripe tape (thanks to whomever recommended it) and it looks very nice. Seems to stick very well, yet will peel off easily if needed.
 
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