Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)

rachelclark21 said:

I took a gravity reading on the wort after cooling, but it is written down at home. I can post after work. Should I be taking one prior to that point in the process?

Click to expand...

Well, I take a sample after I'm all done with mashing, cool it in the fridge, and check the gravity before beginning the boil. The reason being that if it's way low, I'll need to add some extract to bring it closer to where it's supposed to be. If it's way high (has never happened to me!), I'll adjust my hops schedule accordingly.

If you only take a reading after cooling the wort and discover that your OG is way low, you can boil some extract for 10 minutes, cool it, and add it to the fermenter. The exact amount would depend on how far off you are from your target gravity. This shouldn't come up normally once you have a system where you can get close to the same efficiency with every batch.

But anyway, I asked about the gravity because you said your beer was weak/watered down. I'm wondering if you didn't get very good conversion in your mash. Share it when you can.

My first read, taken right before sealing the fermenter, was at 66 degrees and was 1.060. My read after fermentation was 1.030 at 72 degrees.

Sorry it took me so long to post this!!

rachelclark21 said:

My first read, taken right before sealing the fermenter, was at 66 degrees and was 1.060. My read after fermentation was 1.030 at 72 degrees.

Sorry it took me so long to post this!!

Click to expand...

1.030 is really high considering your starting gravity. Your beer wasn't (or shouldn't have been) done fermenting. 1.060 to 1.030 would be 50% attenuation -- WLP300 is supposed to range from 72% to 76% according to their website. I'd think your beer would be really intensely sweet... is that the case?

There are a lot of variables that could contribute, though. What were the fermentation conditions, and how long did you let it sit for? Are you sure your hydrometer and thermometer are reading correctly (search Google for calibration methods)? The yeast itself could be an issue -- too old, stored incorrectly, etc. Did you make a starter?

The thing is, no matter what goes wrong, there's often a fix if you catch the problem at the right time. In your case, I would've moved the fermenter to a warm (mid-70s F) spot and shaken it up a bit to rouse the yeast. If the gravity didn't budge from 1.030 for a few days, I'd probably pitch more yeast. Unfortunately, at this point, I don't know what you can really do for this batch.

Hopefully others will weigh in, though.

The beers flavor is actually quite nice, its just really weak and watered down. It fermented for 2 weeks. I should have done a read before I bottled it, but I was rushing it trying to get it ready for the holidays. The yeast was brand new, and I just followed the directions on the package. I had no idea you needed to make a starter for liquid yeast, but I just read up on that and it is definitely good to know! There was intense action in the fermenter for the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation, so I assumed everything was going great.

I guess I need to add a few more steps to my process next time: more hydrometer readings and a starter for the yeast!

Will be using this writeup next week to make up one or two partial mash brews.

Thanks deathbrewer...

I'll be doing a partial mash this weekend, but I'll also be doing a full 5 gallon boil (as I just received a wort chiller and want to use it). Is the 1.25 qt/lb also an important part of the actual conversion? Would the grains convert just as well in 5 gallons of 152 degree water with no sparge, as they would in say 2 gallons with a sparge?

bwirthlin said:

I'll be doing a partial mash this weekend, but I'll also be doing a full 5 gallon boil (as I just received a wort chiller and want to use it). Is the 1.25 qt/lb also an important part of the actual conversion? Would the grains convert just as well in 5 gallons of 152 degree water with no sparge, as they would in say 2 gallons with a sparge?

Click to expand...

I would sparge the water in a second pot after the initial mash but that's just me.

I've done 2 partial mash's in the last week and I get plenty of goodies from the sparging so I would say do it as it's explained in this thread and use 1.25 or 1.5 gallongs of water per lb of grain you have. I wen the 1.5 per lb and felt it was a good ratio.

RIC0 said:

I would sparge the water in a second pot after the initial mash but that's just me.

I've done 2 partial mash's in the last week and I get plenty of goodies from the sparging so I would say do it as it's explained in this thread and use 1.25 or 1.5 gallongs of water per lb of grain you have. I wen the 1.5 per lb and felt it was a good ratio.

Click to expand...

Cool thanks, I'll give that a shot. Maybe I'll do the mash on the stove top in my smaller kettle. In the mean time I'll heat the sparge water in my big kettle on the turkey fryer. Sparge in the big kettle, then add the wort from the mash to the sparge water and start the boil.

SOOOO helpful. I just got started brewing, but my first brew was just a syrup, and I really want to get into brewing with grains and hops so I can experiment more and make my own recipes. Thanks for putting this up there.

dummy question. how accurate would an OG reading be with a partial mash ??? being that you'd most likely top off with cold water wouldn't you run into the same issue of not getting the wort and the topoff water mixed in thoroughly to get an accurate reading??


and to rachel... yeah 1.030 for a that beer is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too high. 1.020 would be the HIGHEST you'd excpect it to stall at. I'd have warmed it up a tad and went from there.

Thanks for the guide! This seemed like a pretty effortless step up from steeping/extract so I gave it a shot.

DeathBrewer said:

Step 2:

Click to expand...

I've tried this twice now but mine doesn't quite look like this (I should have taken a picture but never did). I use the same ratio of water to grains but it doesn't seem to be enough water to cover them. I don't have grains floating in water like that, I have a tiny island of grain poking out of the water that I'm worried isn't converting well. Is my bag too narrow? My brewpot(/mash tun) too wide? Or is there something stupid I'm doing wrong?

Made my first Partial Mash beer this weekend. This thread was a huge help in getting it done with confidence. Thanks to Death and everyone else who threw in their advice.

Great Guide DeathBrewer, I am only on page 21, have been reading for a while and I have a long ways to go...

I am a Newbie to say the least. DB you said you have done 2 1/2 gal batches. I would like to do a few 2 1/2 gal batches, can you help with a recipe or two. I am interested in the Dunkelweizen do I just half your recipe?. Red Ales and Octoberfest is a couple of my top beers.

I only have a 2 1/2 gal fermentor and a 3 gal brew pot right now so I am limited on my batches.

Thanks again

wormraper said:

how accurate would an OG reading be with a partial mash ??? being that you'd most likely top off with cold water wouldn't you run into the same issue of not getting the wort and the topoff water mixed in thoroughly to get an accurate reading??

Click to expand...

I don't think that I would generalize most people likely to be topping off with cold water. Perhaps most people who use partial mash "kits" are topping off, however there is a whole population of brewers who are formulating their own partial mash recipes. But to answer your question, there are calculators for this. Google is your friend.

Partial Mash Brewing in its best form is very similar to full volume boil, All Grain Brewing with one huge difference... that being a portion of your fermentables is coming from extract.

Thank You Deathbrewer!!

I started using this method last April, and have brewed about 20 batches using the general method. I started with a few "partial mash" recipes..essentially replacing most extract with grain...and now do mostly all grain recipes with the same basic method.

In fact, I have adjusted my efficiency assumption building recipes to 85% for smaller grain bills under 10 lbs...and 75% for larger grain bills where I use less mash water. I have done grain bills as large as 15lbs using this method, and could probably manage a few pounds more, but the efficiency will drop a touch.

I have a 35qt stock pot that just barely fits inside my oven. With the oven set at the lowest approx 150 degree setting....my starting mash temp will stay stable for the entire mash. This is true for any normal mash temp....the ambient temp inside the oven is "close enough" that any heat gain or loss is minimal. If my initial mash temp is 148, or 156....that temp will hold for as long as I want.

pwkblue said:

Thank You Deathbrewer!!

I started using this method last April, and have brewed about 20 batches using the general method. I started with a few "partial mash" recipes..essentially replacing most extract with grain...and now do mostly all grain recipes with the same basic method.

In fact, I have adjusted my efficiency assumption building recipes to 85% for smaller grain bills under 10 lbs...and 75% for larger grain bills where I use less mash water. I have done grain bills as large as 15lbs using this method, and could probably manage a few pounds more, but the efficiency will drop a touch.

I have a 35qt stock pot that just barely fits inside my oven. With the oven set at the lowest approx 150 degree setting....my starting mash temp will stay stable for the entire mash. This is true for any normal mash temp....the ambient temp inside the oven is "close enough" that any heat gain or loss is minimal. If my initial mash temp is 148, or 156....that temp will hold for as long as I want.

Click to expand...

You know, I've never thought about mashing in the oven. I've got a mash tun that I use, but if I'm ever in need, I'll keep this in mind.

I have only been brewing for 8 months, all extract with some steeping grains. I was avoiding learning all grain b/c it intimidated me with all of the additional equipment and seemed very complicated. Then I find DB's simple stove top method and all of my fears have been cast aside. It's so easy! And The only new equipment that I had to purchase was 5 gal paint strainer bag. Thanks DB! This extract noob has been converted!

Still living in that cabin in Alaska Dick?

Read this entire thread and have been using the bag method of partial mash brewing for some time. I am looking to go all grain but I just can't pull that trigger of 200+ dollars for two coolers with fittings. I generally after the mash run a 3 gallon boil and add my water to the pot during the cool down....I do boil my water and let it cool for a couple of days that will be my top off.....

nianticcardplayer said:

Read this entire thread and have been using the bag method of partial mash brewing for some time. I am looking to go all grain but I just can't pull that trigger of 200+ dollars for two coolers with fittings.

Click to expand...

You've seen this thread, haven't you?

Easy Stovetop All-Grain Brewing (with pics)

I went all-grain a year and a half ago and only had to buy a $25 7.5 gal aluminum pot and a custom BIAB bag (and that was optional!).

RichardMNixon said:

Thanks for the guide! This seemed like a pretty effortless step up from steeping/extract so I gave it a shot.



I've tried this twice now but mine doesn't quite look like this (I should have taken a picture but never did). I use the same ratio of water to grains but it doesn't seem to be enough water to cover them. I don't have grains floating in water like that, I have a tiny island of grain poking out of the water that I'm worried isn't converting well. Is my bag too narrow? My brewpot(/mash tun) too wide? Or is there something stupid I'm doing wrong?

Click to expand...

Since no one else has replied to you I'll throw my tuppence ha'penerth in.

I'd have thought, with a name like that, you were synonymous with water and gates and stuff:fro:

Sounds like you're already realizing what the problem might be. Going by what you mentioned:

IF your bag is considerably narrower than your brew kettle then that could lead to the grains not getting sufficient contact and rinsing. Might actually be more beneficial to have a bag that is bigger than the kettle and take up slack using clips around the pot. That would allow the grain to take up a larger surface area, requiring a lower level of water to fully soak the grains.

Absolute best situation would be to have a bag that fits, exactly, your kettle.

If you post a pic or two, to better illustrate your situation, I'm sure someone will be able to offer the right advice.

Sounds to me like his pot is too wide. I had the same problem with my first partial mash, and solved it by splitting the grains into two bags. Even the "large" muslin bags don't stretch enough to cover the bottom of my pot, so I've got some still above the water line.

nianticcardplayer said:

Read this entire thread and have been using the bag method of partial mash brewing for some time. I am looking to go all grain but I just can't pull that trigger of 200+ dollars for two coolers with fittings. I generally after the mash run a 3 gallon boil and add my water to the pot during the cool down....I do boil my water and let it cool for a couple of days that will be my top off.....

Click to expand...

Maybe you need to do this in smaller steps? Try using more base grains and less extract for your next brew. It's still a partial mash, right. Next time use more grains and less extract yet. It's still a partial mash but you are getting closer to all grain. When you get to the point that you are only using a teaspoon of extract and the rest grain, youi're still partial mashing, but you'll be only one teaspoon away from all grain. Sounds easy, doesn't it. I skipped some of the steps along the way and used my 5 gallon pot and a paint strainer to do 2 1/2 gallon batches to see how it was done and if I wanted to go to 5 gallon batches. Now I have a turkey fryer pot 7 1/2 gallon and mash in that for a 5 gallon batch, sometimes no sparge, sometimes a modified sparge to hit my preboil. Works fine.:rockin:

Ogri said:

Absolute best situation would be to have a bag that fits, exactly, your kettle.

Click to expand...

That seemed to do the trick, thanks for the confirmation. Picked up a 2.5 gal ceramic pot to use for the mash instead of my 6.5 gal brewpot.

A HUUUGE "THANK YOU" to DeathBrewer and all other contributors for this thread. You were with me every step of the way for my first ever partial mash, which went swimmingly and resulted in a tasty wort with a perfect OG.

I just tried my first partial mash after attemping two extract brews that turned out pretty well. I am kind of worried because my OG was around 1.042. I did some researching and apparently this is low for a german pilsner. I was shooting for around 5 to 5.5%. Is there anything i can do to raise it or is this an acceptable reading?

So I've completed my 2nd partial mash recipe this weekend and my fermenter is bubbling away like crazy! Think I did a much better job aerating this batch. It's definitely much more fun and challenging to do PM over all-extract for sure but well worth the extra effort. Funny thing is my effeciency has been 83% and 85%.. not sure how I am hitting those but curious to see if I keep hitting those going forward. I'm using a 3 gal Igloo cooler as a mash tun and it holds temps within 2 degrees over an hour.. very happy with that! Oh yes.. and Beersmith is VERY helpful in calculating recipes.. awesome!

Thanks Deathbrewer for the great instructions and everyone who has posted and replied on this thread!

catfishunter said:

I just tried my first partial mash after attemping two extract brews that turned out pretty well. I am kind of worried because my OG was around 1.042. I did some researching and apparently this is low for a german pilsner. I was shooting for around 5 to 5.5%. Is there anything i can do to raise it or is this an acceptable reading?

Click to expand...

Probably best to just roll with what you have. It could well attenuate out to a suitably low Final Gravity and give you something close to your target of 5 to 5.5% but even if it doesn't it'll still be beer.

Having said that, additions of sugar/sugar syrup to primary is a pretty common practice with some Belgian ales. If you have a search around you might get some useful ideas.

Ok. Thanks. I actually just added a little less than a pound of sugar to it. I realized that when i filled my fermenter i added to much water and was a little over 5.5 gallons which would explain why my OG was so low i guess. Stupid mistake. Ya well i think it should turn out ok.

Can someone do me a huge favor and help me out with mashing oats. I'm going to brew an oatmeal milk stout, and am a bit confused on the process for mashing the oats. Maybe it's because it really is simple, and I'm trying to make it complicated.

I read somewhere this:

"you just steep the oats with an equal amount of two row grains for 45 minutes at 150-155. "

Is that correct? If so, then do I just add the rest of my grains and steep in the same pot after steeping the oats with 2-row?

Am I making this too complicated? probabaly, which is why I need someone to dumb it down for me.

Thanks in advance.

walcotteric said:

Can someone do me a huge favor and help me out with mashing oats. I'm going to brew an oatmeal milk stout, and am a bit confused on the process for mashing the oats. Maybe it's because it really is simple, and I'm trying to make it complicated.

I read somewhere this:

"you just steep the oats with an equal amount of two row grains for 45 minutes at 150-155. "

Is that correct? If so, then do I just add the rest of my grains and steep in the same pot after steeping the oats with 2-row?

Am I making this too complicated? probabaly, which is why I need someone to dumb it down for me.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

If you are using flaked oats from the LHBS or rolled oats from the supermarket (any quick oats like Quaker) you can just toss them into your mash with all the rest of your grains. If you are using steel cut or whole oats you have to cook them first to gelatinize the starch. So use flaked or rolled oats and toss em in! You should have no problem with this method, but if you move into a different kind of mash system be aware that too many oats in your mash can make for a sticky mess and a stuck sparge. Brew on!

TANSTAAFB said:

If you are using flaked oats from the LHBS or rolled oats from the supermarket (any quick oats like Quaker) you can just toss them into your mash with all the rest of your grains. If you are using steel cut or whole oats you have to cook them first to gelatinize the starch. So use flaked or rolled oats and toss em in! You should have no problem with this method, but if you move into a different kind of mash system be aware that too many oats in your mash can make for a sticky mess and a stuck sparge. Brew on!

Click to expand...

What if I just wanted to mash the Oats (with some 2-row), to use in an extract recipe where I'll be steeping the rest of the grains. Would that be done the same way?

If you are mashing anything you don't have to steep. I assume you are using the BIAB method, so just toss all your steeping grains in with the 2 row and the oats. It will actually work better than the separate processes. What is your grain bill?

TANSTAAFB said:

If you are mashing anything you don't have to steep. I assume you are using the BIAB method, so just toss all your steeping grains in with the 2 row and the oats. It will actually work better than the separate processes. What is your grain bill?

Click to expand...

Well, I was going to do this, which is an extract recipe (2.5 gallon batch), but now I'm thinking of doing partial mash instead, since I've been told I should mash the oats regardless.

Here's the extract recipe:

M.O. Stout (Milk Oatmeal Stout)

Light Dry Malt Extract – 2.25 lbs
Black Patent – 4 oz
Chocolate Malt – 6 oz
CARAPILS – 4 oz
Lactose – 1/2 lb
Oats, Flaked – 1/2 lb
Fuggle Pellet Hops – 1/2 oz (60 min)
Fuggle Pellet Hops - 1/2 oz (5 min)
Nottingham Yeast
Irish Moss - 1/2 tsp

Steep oats for 15 minutes at 115 F.
Bring temp up to 155.
Steep grains and oats for 45 minutes.
Remove from heat.
Add malt extract.
Bring to boil.
Add bittering hops with 60 minutes remaining.
Add 1/2 tsp Irish Moss and 1/2 lb lactose at with 15 min remaining.
Add aroma hops with 5 minutes remaining.

Oh, and 1/2 lb of American 2-row as well.

I plugged that into Beersmith and only got an OG of 1032...I would imagine you are going for something a little bigger than that. If you bump the 2-row up to 4lbs (which would also make for a better mash consistency, more enzymes, and better conversion of the starches) you have an OG of 1050...a little bigger beer. Make it 5lbs and you are at 1056, right in the middle of the style for an oatmeal stout. Yours will be sweeter because of the lactose. You could also bump the amount of extract, but if you are already making the jump to a PM, why not go for the cheaper option! Have you done a PM or AG batch before, or mostly extract and steeping grains?

That also only has you at about 7 IBU's!!!! (all of this is for a 5 gal batch) You will need to bump up the 60 minute addition to 2oz to get you to the very low end of the style (around 26 IBUs) if you use Fuggles. Challenger is a really nice bittering hop with a little higher Alpha acid content. If you tossed in 1oz of Challenger and 1oz of Fuggles at 60 minutes you would be around 32 IBU's, right around the middle of the style. These are good numbers for a sweet stout as well. And if you want a little more oatmeal cookie flavor and aroma in your beer, try toasting the oats lightly in your oven and/ or adding some character malt like Victory. The latest Brew Your Own mag has a good article on using oats and some great pointers on brewing oatmeal stout from Jamil Zainasheff.

TANSTAAFB said:

That also only has you at about 7 IBU's!!!! (all of this is for a 5 gal batch) You will need to bump up the 60 minute addition to 2oz to get you to the very low end of the style (around 26 IBUs) if you use Fuggles. Challenger is a really nice bittering hop with a little higher Alpha acid content. If you tossed in 1oz of Challenger and 1oz of Fuggles at 60 minutes you would be around 32 IBU's, right around the middle of the style. These are good numbers for a sweet stout as well. And if you want a little more oatmeal cookie flavor and aroma in your beer, try toasting the oats lightly in your oven and/ or adding some character malt like Victory. The latest Brew Your Own mag has a good article on using oats and some great pointers on brewing oatmeal stout from Jamil Zainasheff.

Click to expand...

I've never done PM or AG, just extract with steeping grains. Also, I'm doing a 2.5 gallon batch (I did mention that above), so does that change the OG or IBUs?

The reason I though of trying PM is that I was told that to use the Oats in the extract recipe I needed to mash the oats with the 2-row first.

Sorry I missed the 2.5 gal batch size! Is there any particular reason you are going for a smaller batch? I scaled the recipe to 2.5 and it looks like this...

Milk Oatmeal Stout
Sweet Stout
Type: Partial Mash Date: 2/21/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 2.50 gal Brewer:
Boil Size: 1.67 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Pot and Cooler ( 5 Gal/19 L) - Extract/Partial Mash
End of Boil Volume 1.30 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 2.10 gal Est Mash Efficiency 117.2 %
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:
Ingredients


Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
2 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 45.0 %
4.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.6 %
3.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.3 %
2.0 oz Black (Patent) Malt (500.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.8 %
2.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 6 33.8 %
4.0 oz Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 7 5.6 %
0.76 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 19.3 IBUs
0.76 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 11.6 IBUs
0.38 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 1.2 IBUs

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.057 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.8 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %
Bitterness: 32.0 IBUs Calories: 151.6 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 20.2 SRM
Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body, No Mash Out Total Grain Weight: 4 lbs 7.0 oz
Sparge Water: 1.15 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 4.36 qt of water at 160.4 F 150.0 F 75 min

Sparge Step: Fly sparge with 1.15 gal water at 168.0 F
Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Bottle Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 1.65 oz Carbonation Used: Bottle with 1.65 oz Corn Sugar
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 70.0 F Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Storage Temperature: 65.0 F
Notes


Created with BeerSmith