question for PJ

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paulfg

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an english man living in Corfu
I am planning to build a 240 volt recirculating BIAB setup using the wiring diagram from PJ that he posted for 120 volt but abiously changing contactor coil rating to 240v.
we have real 240 volts here ie live neutral and earth my question for PJ is what value resistors do I need for the emergency stop circuit.
I am quite happy with eveything else on the wiring side but I am not sure how that value is reached
 
paulfg said:
I am planning to build a 240 volt recirculating BIAB setup using the wiring diagram from PJ that he posted for 120 volt but abiously changing contactor coil rating to 240v.
we have real 240 volts here ie live neutral and earth my question for PJ is what value resistors do I need for the emergency stop circuit.
I am quite happy with eveything else on the wiring side but I am not sure how that value is reached
Click to expand...
The E-Stop would be wired exactly tha same way using the same resistor values. This is due to it being placed between one of the hot lines and equipment ground.

You are placing 2,000 ohms of resistance in the trip circuit so that the amps are limited to 0.06A.

E-Stop.jpg


Hope this helps.

P-J
 
paulfg said:
thanks pj just wasnt sure as the leg is 240 volts to earth not 120
Click to expand...

If you measure the lines of 240V power there is 240V from black to red. Then there is 120V from either black or red to the white (neutral). Also there would be 120V from either black or red to ground.

WAIT, WAIT... I just checked and you live in Greece. Completely different situation. Wow, I gald I looked. Your power delivery is very different than here.

For your setup you could place 4000 ohms of resistance in your E-Stop circuit. That would limit the current draw to 0.06A for your 240V power to equipment ground. The 0.06A should be Ok for tripping the GFCI but it might be a good idea for you to check out the trip specifications of your particullar GFCI breaker.

P-J
 
thanks pj
sorry about the slow reply my RCCB circuit breaker trips at 30 mA so your 4000 ohms would give 60 mA so ok I think
Another question I would like to use a phase angle ssr to control the boil and the pid to control the mash/strike temp

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Ph...Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2a26ff32a1

I am thinking of instead of the 30 amp contactor in your diagram you supplied for auberin-wiring1-A4-2000w-BIAB-120v-D


change this for a 32 amp three way switch (remove low current button & contactor ) such that in one position it feeds the element from the pid and in the other it feeds via the phase angle ssr with separate live feeds to each from the common live bus bar
this would allow me to still isolate the element does this idea look ok

bare in mind I am using 240v 32amp supply fused in fuse box at 25a double breaker with a 4500 watt element

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTARY-SW...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3f2217eee3
link to switch

hope this makes sense as I cant find a way to cut and paste your diagram from my pc to this post

thanks paul
 
paulfg said:
thanks pj
sorry about the slow reply my RCCB circuit breaker trips at 30 mA so your 4000 ohms would give 60 mA so ok I think
Another question I would like to use a phase angle ssr to control the boil and the pid to control the mash/strike temp

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Ph...Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2a26ff32a1

I am thinking of instead of the 30 amp contactor in your diagram you supplied for auberin-wiring1-A4-2000w-BIAB-120v-D


change this for a 32 amp three way switch (remove low current button & contactor ) such that in one position it feeds the element from the pid and in the other it feeds via the phase angle ssr with separate live feeds to each from the common live bus bar
this would allow me to still isolate the element does this idea look ok

bare in mind I am using 240v 32amp supply fused in fuse box at 25a double breaker with a 4500 watt element

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTARY-SW...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3f2217eee3
link to switch

hope this makes sense as I cant find a way to cut and paste your diagram from my pc to this post

thanks paul
Click to expand...

If you are going to use the SYL-2352 PID you do not need to use a phase angle SSR to control the boil. That particular PID has a manual mode that allows you to control the element power by percent delivered. The control is built in the PID.

Regarding the contactor: You most certainly can use a switch as long as it is rated for the voltage and the current draw.
 
thanks again PJ for your quick response
my pid as a sestos one which like the auberin one has a manual percentage setting but I sort of feel the control via a pot is more sensative and I could react to a boil over quicker than entering programming and changing settings on the pid
also I have already ordered the phase angle relay I only need to source the 32 amp switch which I can do locally.
My only hold up is the arrival from china of the buttons/box I would have bought the auberin stuff but the postage to me is a killer from USA .I would like a bayou pot but the postage is almost as much as the pot.Another example some silicone tubing from more beer was about 8$ and the postage 40$ (not the vendors fault ) that is why I tend to use ebay( I just hope the quality turns out to be ok and I dont regret it)
 
IMO the separate phase angle and regular SSR is overly complicated. If you want the analog knob for boil control you can use a relay output PID to enable/disable the contactor coil and power to element based on temp.

You could also wire your estop in series with contactor coil to disable 220v power and use a fuse for pid and pump 110v.
 
I'm not at all familiar with the Sestos PID. The Auber PID is just a button press on the PID to change over to manual mode. With that said, I think you are making a good decision to use the phase angle SSR in your set up. I'm sure it will make your system easier to control.

Wishing you success.
 
having looked at the auberin PID manual online as I had read the sestos is very similar ,I found you can control the output manually just like the Auberin one .You need to change one perameter and then it acts just the same as the Auberin PID.
I have therefore decided to build an exact copy of the 120 volt 2000 watt BIAB wiring except to upgrade to 240 volts and change the relay coil accordingly and use a 4500 watt element.
Box completed today except for the resistors required for the emergency cutout.
just need a bag and something to stand it on and I am ready to go
once again many thaqnks PJ for your input on the wiring front
 

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