5-1/2 foot DIY Hood for approx. $75

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deprecated

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I'll post some pictures later tonight of my finished hood.

Costs are approximate:
$32 - FRP
$ 5 - Lath screws
$12 - 2x4's
$14 - Plywood half-sheet
$12 - Vinyl J-Channel
---
$76

Cut two plywood end caps that are half-circles with a 15.25" radius. This dimension allows the 4' end of the FRP sheet to be fully utilized.

Cut your FRP pieces to match your end caps. I screwed rectangular pieces of FRP to the plywood end caps then routered around the edges to get the FRP lined up with the plywood as closely as possible. Probably best to cut your duct hole in one end cap before attaching FRP, then jigsaw or router out FRP in hole.

Your larger piece of FRP should be 66.5" (96" - 30.5") long by 48" wide. With someone assisting start at bottom of your half-circle plywood end cap and screw the 48" side of the FRP into it every 6 inches or so.

Once that is done, drop your 2x4 rectangular frame onto the hood. At this point you can work in your J-Channel between the FRP and 2x4's to catch condensation.

I've not determined yet how I'm going to seal the J-Channel mitered joints, so any suggestions would be great.

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I like it - I'm thinking of making something similar.....

Bathtub silicone might work for sealing the corners of the j-channel.
 
I've have some latex bathroom caulking for sealing those joints but I'm tempted to use more J-Channel and a torch to patch in the corners. Totally impractical but it does mean I get to play with fire and molten plastic.

I had the better part of two FRP sheets, so I was able to actually make a 6.5' hood for $35 or so with the stuff I had on hand.

I don't have a vortex fan yet so it's not going to be hooked up for another week or so, but I'm looking forward to getting it in-place and finishing up my electric setup with some 30-gallon kettles!:ban:
 
Do you think that the j-channels will fill to the point of overflowing? Most restaurant commercial hoods I've seen have the channels pitched to a single low spot with a removable cup that catches the runoff which can be easily taken out and emptied.
 
Do you think that the j-channels will fill to the point of overflowing? Most restaurant commercial hoods I've seen have the channels pitched to a single low spot with a removable cup that catches the runoff which can be easily taken out and emptied.

I would be you could run them at a slight slope, then run a vinyl tube from the low spot to a drain. (I assume since he is putting in a hood there will be a drain location of some sort). Then make sure it is good and siliconed shut.

I also would bet with a good air flow they channels will not not overflow (unless it is a reduce 15 gallons to 6.5 boil) but if they aren't drained it will still be a lovely place for mold.

To the original poster, please keep us posted on how it works. I am planning a brewery upgrade when I move (1-2 years) and this kind of work will be needed (depending on where it is located I might have to dress it up a little).
 
Yeah, I was thinking of a drain tube but I hadn't considered the mold factor. Mine's in a basement where things tend to get moldy in the summer anyway, but since I've installed an exhaust fan it's helped.
 
I hope to have it relatively level and put a vinyl drain tube in one corner. The channels are 1/2" deep.

That in conjunction with a 450+ CFM exhaust fan would ideally keep the moisture in the channels to a minimum. An occasional spray of bleach-water around the bottom interior hood/channel should help?
 
Are you planning to mount the fan to the outside of the hood and then duct from there? Or farther downstream? What is your duct length you have to reach outdoors?

I'm going to start mine this weekend. Just need ideas.
 
Unfortunately I have a very long run of duct (30 feet) with two 90 degree elbows. The two elbows are within the first 5 feet of duct (from the fan). Flex-duct might be a better option since it would allow less drastic angles.

I'm going to mount the fan to the hood or very close to it. The way the duct runs I will be able to add an inline booster fan if needed just before the last 15' of duct.

Ordered the fan yesterday and will pick up duct in next day or two.

garbageman, I'm pleased with how the hood came out but I did neglect to put any sort of sealant or adhesive between the FRP and edge of plywood endcap where I screwed it down. Not a big deal but that's the only thing I might do different if I were to do over.
 
i was planning something similar. Glad I saw your build before I built a full box like I was going to. Think I will follow you plan but instead of half circles, Im going to use 1/4 circles. This will allow it to butt up flat to the back wall of my brewery. I am mounting three bath fans that will vent directly out the back wall of the brewshed. I was planning on metal drip edge, but I do like the idea of j channel as well. Was planning on sloping all my channel to one corner and putting a drain to my sink.
 
Unfortunately I have a very long run of duct (30 feet) with two 90 degree elbows. The two elbows are within the first 5 feet of duct (from the fan). Flex-duct might be a better option since it would allow less drastic angles.

I'm going to mount the fan to the hood or very close to it. The way the duct runs I will be able to add an inline booster fan if needed just before the last 15' of duct.

Ordered the fan yesterday and will pick up duct in next day or two.

garbageman, I'm pleased with how the hood came out but I did neglect to put any sort of sealant or adhesive between the FRP and edge of plywood endcap where I screwed it down. Not a big deal but that's the only thing I might do different if I were to do over.

I wouldn't do flex duct. Whatever duct you use will result in some condensation. If you angle a rigid duct it will all roll downhill and you can plan for it to escape. A flexible duct will trap water in all of the corrugation and well that could get funky overtime.

Just make sure you have a powerful enough fan to handle the ductwork and you should be fine. At least that is how I would address it.
 
I appreciate the advice on the flex-duct, ToV. I'll be sure to use rigid duct.

The fan came in yesterday. I'm going to make slight changes to the hood tomorrow to accommodate the fan.

I intend to replace the side 2x4's with longer ones that will allow me to mount the fan directly to the hood. I should have thought of this earlier...

The overall expense would only be a few dollars more if I had initially taken this approach. I'll be sure to post pictures tomorrow.
 
Ok, I went to hang the hood by myself and it went from about 60 lbs to around 800 lbs.

It's currently just hanging with rope. I'll level it and secure it with 1/8" cable over the weekend. Should also have all the duct run by end of the weekend.

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Never thought I'd hear an hood be called sexy. :D

Great project. The ingenuity of homebrewers never cease to amaze.

Looking forward to the next installment!

edit, LEDs would look pretty cool in the steam.
 
I have all the duct work done and the fan controller installed! There seems to be plenty of airflow at the end of my 30' of duct.

I need to put in the hood drain line and route it to the sink, but otherwise this project is done.

On to the kettles and control panel!

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Not sure what the proper name is, but there is a type of condensate trap you may want to consider. Sort of like a p-trap on a sink....the duct right off the hood goes down, then sharply back up and you can place a drain in the bottom of the "U" where the water will collect. Should keep a LOT of the water out.
 
deprecated said:
I have all the duct work done and the fan controller installed! There seems to be plenty of airflow at the end of my 30' of duct.

I need to put in the hood drain line and route it to the sink, but otherwise this project is done.

On to the kettles and control panel!


Really like your design!
Did you purchase the pebbled FRP or smooth, seems like HD and the other stores only carry pebbled.

Please let me know how it works out...and thanks for the drawings.
 
The FRP was actually given to me from as left-over from a job. It is pebbled on one side. I used the smooth side (back) as the inside of the hood thinking that condensation would be more apt to travel down to the drip channel.
 
Went with a pretty similar design. Tried to keep things as ultralight as possible (semi-permanant setup on the cheap), so I went without the wooden 1/2 circle end pieces. Seam is epoxied between FRP parts. 6' L, 2.5' W, 1' H due to super low ceilings.

Finally brewed with this setup for the first time today...still some bugs to iron out (J-trays and exhaust drains are needed...leaks...LEAKS EVERYWHEEREEE). Working on a 'clean' design solution.

:smack:

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What is, or what do you think is, the smallest diameter FRP would bend to before breaking or unreasonably stressing, cracking, or otherwise going to pot?

Thx,
Mike
 
So I built a similar version, but wanted to vent out the back and not the side. So I just made a triangle instead of a semi-circle. I had to cut the FRP and tape the seams (didn't do a great job, but it works). It's an option for those who want a slightly different but equally cheap design.
 
What is, or what do you think is, the smallest diameter FRP would bend to before breaking or unreasonably stressing, cracking, or otherwise going to pot?

Decoy/Mike,
I have a sheet rolled up in the garage that is probably 2 ft. diameter from the 8 ft. side of a 4x8 sheet. However, I don't know if there is a direction to the fibers that would prevent you from making that tight of a diameter along the 4 ft. side...:confused:
 
Went with a pretty similar design. Tried to keep things as ultralight as possible (semi-permanant setup on the cheap), so I went without the wooden 1/2 circle end pieces. Seam is epoxied between FRP parts. 6' L, 2.5' W, 1' H due to super low ceilings.

Finally brewed with this setup for the first time today...still some bugs to iron out (J-trays and exhaust drains are needed...leaks...LEAKS EVERYWHEEREEE). Working on a 'clean' design solution.

:smack:

Liquid leaks or exhaust leaks? Either way some silicon seal would probably fix it. :)
 
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