Mash tun build

Anyone ever use one of these in a mash tun...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JV4VGY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Seems alot easier to use of of these attached to a water supply line in the cooler and held in place with a couple of rubber gaskets and acrylic nuts.

Seems cheaper, easier and I like the screw on nozzle as opposed to the barb nozzles i see with most DIY and commercial mash tuns. That be said, I will likely need to drill out a bigger hole in the cooler.

Can anyone point out any problems with this approach? Am i missing anything?

Im sure you could get this valve to work on your cooler. However, I see two potential problems using this valve in particular. First, the valve is made of brass which contains a small amount of lead. As an avid brewer, I believe steps need to be taken to prevent such impurities from making their way into the brew kettle. The second problem would be that this valve does not appear to have the same ability to to control the flow rate during lautering and sparging, such as regular ball valve would. If you lauter/sparge too quickly, you risk decreasing your efficiency and original gravity, as well as getting a stuck sparge. I know stainless steel ball valves are expensive ($35), but it is because they are worth it. Furthermore, it is more simple to attach a screen or tun manifold to one of these ball valves rather than the washing machine valve. A manifold can be made from copper piping and attached to the valve using a 1/2 inch MPT copper (or stainless) connector. http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Stainless-Steel-Valve-Spigot/dp/B0028ZLEE6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1349728530&sr=8-6&keywords=homebrew+ball+valve

I would think that as long as it seals up properly, which it looks like it wouldn't be hard to do, you should be all set. Post a picture if you attempt to use this valve.