Tasted my American Pale ale while bottling and

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BoomerSoonerBrewer

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it tasted good but was a bit sweet and didn't have much alcohol bite.

I tried to take a hydrometer but couldn't figure out how to read it properly (i'm too noob).

Is this normal?

Here is the recipe I used:

malt & fermentables
% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
44% 4 0 American Two-row Pale 37 1 ~
35% 3 3 Briess GOLD LME 34 5 ~
11% 1 0 Crystal 20L 34 20 ~
11% 1 0 Biscuit Malt 36 23 ~
Batch size: 5.0 gallons


Original Gravity
1.054 / 13.3° Plato
(1.049 to 1.057)
Final Gravity
1.013 / 3.3° Plato
(1.011 to 1.014)
Color
8° SRM / 17° EBC
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
75%

hops
use time oz variety form aa
boil 60 mins 1.0 Cascade pellet 6.2
boil 20 mins 1.0 Goldings, East Kent pellet 5.0
boil 10 mins 1.0 Goldings, East Kent pellet 5.0
Boil: 4.0 avg gallons for 60 minutes


Bitterness
35.6 IBU / 6 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
BU:GU
0.65

yeast
White Labs California Ale
ale yeast in liquid form with high flocculation and 77% attenuation


Alcohol
5.5% ABV / 4% ABW
Calories
178 per 12 oz.
 
That may be on the sweet end for a pale ale but the balance should become more bitter as the beer carbonates. The CO2 will add some bite. To get a nice bitterness I shoot for a BU:GU ratio between .8-.9 assuming I get 75% attenuation from my yeast. Greater or lesser attenuation will leave more or less sweetness in the beer so that will impact the IBUs you should shoot for.
 
That may be on the sweet end for a pale ale but the balance should become more bitter as the beer carbonates. The CO2 will add some bite. To get a nice bitterness I shoot for a BU:GU ratio between .8-.9 assuming I get 75% attenuation from my yeast. Greater or lesser attenuation will leave more or less sweetness in the beer so that will impact the IBUs you should shoot for.

Well I appreciate it.

Given the temp of the beer and the malt used, I can see why it didn't have that "bite."

I will say that after 15 days of fermentation, it smelled very good and well-developed for a young beer.

Also, this batch survived a bit of a scare from a bleach-sanitized water used in the airlock that sucked into the beer (five droplets). It hasn't affected the taste so we are certain we're in the clear and it will turn out good.

Going to bottle the IPA tomorrow and brew an Amber Ale.
 
Well I appreciate it.

Given the temp of the beer and the malt used, I can see why it didn't have that "bite."

I will say that after 15 days of fermentation, it smelled very good and well-developed for a young beer.

Also, this batch survived a bit of a scare from a bleach-sanitized water used in the airlock that sucked into the beer (five droplets). It hasn't affected the taste so we are certain we're in the clear and it will turn out good.

Going to bottle the IPA tomorrow and brew an Amber Ale.

Are you sure it was finished fermenting? 15 days might be short and there was still sugar for the yeast to eat.
 
I wouldn't think that you'd get an alcohol bite in a 5.5 ABV beer. My advice is learn how to use the hydrometer because it will help you to trouble shoot these issues.
 
I wouldn't think that you'd get an alcohol bite in a 5.5 ABV beer. My advice is learn how to use the hydrometer because it will help you to trouble shoot these issues.

I didn't have any problems measuring the OG but for whatever reason can't get a reading for the FG. I will definitely learn how to use it.
 
How could you get an original gravity reading, but not get a final gravity reading? It is the same process - put enough beer in the tube to float the hydrometer and then see where the top of the liquid sits on the hydrometer and read the number. What is different about reading it this time?
 
I always like when the samples are sweet. You know its going to be good then. When they are really bitter going into bottle you sometimes need to wait longer to enjoy them and allow them to mellow out. Like another mentioned that recipe doesnt have a big abv or IBUs so it wont bite back much anyway. My beers fully ferment in just a few days and the rest of the time is the yeast cleaning up so 14 days is enough. Really its pretty common. Longer rests are for different beers and if you taste any off flavors.
 
How could you get an original gravity reading, but not get a final gravity reading? It is the same process - put enough beer in the tube to float the hydrometer and then see where the top of the liquid sits on the hydrometer and read the number. What is different about reading it this time?


Reading a totally different portion of the hydrometer, where it is a bit more confusing.

This hydrometer is the kit hydrometer cheapo that comes with a Midwestern kit.
 
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