ElectricBrewGaloo 2.0 -Automated - Brutus 20 - 2 Pump - Brewtroller

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Squeeky

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This will be the start of my build thread to my automated system. I have finally determined my valve setup, after several different attempts (see photo). I have purchased a BT3.3 from a fellow brewer. I will likely upgrade to the DX1 board, however I wanted to use a legacy system to ensure it had all features in place already.

The system will run off 30A GFCI, and will be based off the brutus 20 two vessel setup. I chose this design over my current HERMS three vessel as I'm looking for something that would take up less space and provide the ability to do 10-12g batches of smaller beers and 7g batch of a big beer.

The system will run on a total of 9 valves (1 not shown is H2O input to chiller). It will also be using 2x chuggerpumps (Upgrading from March). There will be no more changing tubing throughout the brew, however for cost and ease I will be using silicone at first. (Hard plumbing in future once everything running smooth). The other advantage to using Brewtroller is volume sensors, which I will have one on the HLT/BK vessel.

ElectronicBrewery.jpeg


Let me know what you guys think guys, I'll be updating as things continue.

UPDATE:
1_-_Overview.JPG

2_-_Fill_Strike.JPG

3_-_Circ_Strike.JPG

4_-_Circ_Mash.JPG

5_-_Sparge.JPG

6_-_Chill.JPG


My only issue is with chilling, however now that I have designed the diagram have found my solution. I can move the chiller to be inline with the BK/HLT pump. This way I will not need the second vessel at all after boil.
 
I am (very slowly) working to the same set up, minus automated valves.

How are you maintaining mash temps? Recirculating through the BK?

I will be watching. Good luck!
 
The vessel on the left is a HLT/BK so I will fill with strike water, and recirc mash though. The valve setup will allow both HLT recirc to keep an even temp and mash circ at same time.
 
Good luck on the build, looks like a solid plan!

You could use cheaper solenoid valves for anything that will only pass strictly water. I purchased several different models from Valves4Projects on eBay and they should work well for plain water. They come with multiple coil voltage ratings for different control applications.
 
Thanks for the input, but the brass solenoids are actually more then the SS valves I have now.
 
I'm not quite following your diagram.
I don't see the HERMS coil attachments & am confused by the interconnected branches at the tops of both kettles.
Can you please explain those branches & how the connections will function?
 
I will post a PowerPoint flow diagram this evening. It won't be as pretty but will be easier to follow. Essential the arrows going into the side of the left keg are germs in/out.
 
I don't currently have access to my diagrams, but when I was designing mine, I couldn't keep it under 12 automated valves, no matter what I did.

At $50 per valve, I just couldn't stomach the cost of automation & decided to stay manual, for now.
 
Diagrams updated, please notice the info about the chiller. It will be moved inline with BK pump, just didn't take the time to adjust all the diagrams. I will also move the dump valve to this pump.

Still only using 9 valves, and I think I've covered everything
 
I'm confused what you have going on here.

Are these 3-way valves? If not, I'm failing to see what stops your liquid flow from going towards your filter when you pump out of the HLT/BK.
 
All valves are 2 way

There really isn't anything, except for the valve. Perhaps it will be best to place the valve after the filter rather then before.
 
So it my concern really pertains to most of your connections then. I imagine that the liquid is going to fill up both ends of your tees until it hits a valve; I wouldn't expect that it magically makes the turn for you.

That being said, I'm not sure that I would want liquid hanging out in those paths to be flushed later during a different process. Maybe the lengths aren't that long and it's not a big deal but I would probably try to find a better way if it were me.
 
At 1/2" tubing and at lengths around 4-5ft the liquid left in the lines would be very minimal. Due to automation there will always be some residuals, although I don't think there would be any concerns. Although I'd be curious if hear others opinions.
 
I'm confused what you have going on here.

Are these 3-way valves? If not, I'm failing to see what stops your liquid flow from going towards your filter when you pump out of the HLT/BK.

You may want to add a few check valves, to eliminate back-flow problems.
BUT...Then, you run into the problem of not being able to backflush, during a cleaning cycle.
If I remember correctly, this is one of the reasons I needed 12 valves.
 
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