Double IPA Pliny the Elder Clone

sok454 said:

Yeah I've never had it either. Care to share ur recipe yeast etc?

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Here is the recipe I used that came straight from Vinnie at Russian River:

RECIPE TYPE: AG (BIAB)
BATCH SIZE: 5 GALLONS
OG: 1.070
FG: 1.011
IBU'S: 90-95

GRAINS

13.25 LB TWO-ROW PALE MALT
0.60 LB CRYSTAL 45 MALT (TRY 0.30 LBS OF CRYSTAL 40L)
0.60 LB CARAPILS (DEXTRIN) MALT
0.75 LB DEXTROSE (CORN) SUGAR

HOPS

3.50 OZ COLUMBUS* 13.90% A.A. 90 MIN.
0.75 OZ COLUMBUS* 13.90% A.A. 45 MIN.
1.00 OZ SIMCOE 12.30% A.A. 30 MIN.
1.00 OZ CENTENNIAL 8.00% A.A. 0 MIN.
2.50 OZ SIMCOE 12.30% A.A. 0 MIN.
1.00 OZ COLUMBUS* 13.90% A.A. DRY HOP (12 TO 14 DAYS TOTAL)
1.00 OZ CENTENNIAL 9.10% A.A. DRY HOP (12 TO 14 DAYS TOTAL)
1.00 OZ SIMCOE 12.30% A.A. DRY HOP (12 TO 14 DAYS TOTAL)
0.25 OZ COLUMBUS* 13.90% A.A. DRY HOP (5 DAYS TO GO IN DRY HOP)
0.25 OZ CENTENNIAL 9.10% A.A. DRY HOP (5 DAYS TO GO IN DRY HOP)
0.25 OZ SIMCOE 12.30% A.A. DRY HOP (5 DAYS TO GO IN DRY HOP)
*TOMAHAWK/ZEUS CAN BE SUBSTITUTED FOR COLUMBUS

YEAST

WHITE LABS WLP001 CALIFORNIA ALE YEAST OR
WYEAST 1056 AMERICAN ALE YEAST OR
US05 DRY YEAST

DIRECTIONS

MASH GRAINS AT 151°-153° F FOR 60 MINUTES
MASH OUT AT 170° F FOR 10 MINUTES
SPARGE AT 170° FOR 20 MINUTES

STIR IN DEXTROSE,AND BRING TO A BOIL. ADD HOPS AS INDICATED IN THE RECIPE. AFTER A 90 MINUTE BOIL, CHILL WORT TO 67° F (19° C) AND TRANSFER TO FERMENTER. PITCH TWO PACKAGES OF YEAST OR A YEAST STARTER
AND AERATE WELL. FERMENT AT 67° F (19° C) UNTIL FERMENTATION ACTIVITY SUBSIDES, THEN RACK
TO SECONDARY. ADD FIRST SET OF DRY HOPS ON TOP OF THE RACKED BEER AND AGE 7-9 DAYS, THEN
ADD THE SECOND SET. AGE FIVE MORE DAYS THEN BOTTLE OR KEG THE BEER.


I'm also going to be adding Amarillo in the dry hop additions. I'm going to add about 0.6 oz to each dry hop addition. And I used the US05 dry yeast in mine. I had some harvested 1056, but one of my kids left the door open to the fridge I store my yeast in and it had kind of a funky smell so I didn't want to risk ruining a brew with this much hops in it so I took the safe route and just used the dry US05 as I've heard it is a suitable substitute. Hope this helps...

I used Marris at 12lb and increased sugar to 1.25 as my mt I 5 gal. I too used s-05. I put mine I. The freezer to cool and got it down to 45-8 then racked to new bucket to aerate and eliminate some hop junk. Then pitched yeasts bit cool. It's now in basement in Rubbermaid container full of water at 63. Air temp 65. How was your sample?

Oh and used crystal 60 as its what I had. Also mashed closer to 148-9. Looking forward to trying it.

sok454 said:

I used Marris at 12lb and increased sugar to 1.25 as my mt I 5 gal. I too used s-05. I put mine I. The freezer to cool and got it down to 45-8 then racked to new bucket to aerate and eliminate some hop junk. Then pitched yeasts bit cool. It's now in basement in Rubbermaid container full of water at 63. Air temp 65. How was your sample?

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Did you re-hydrate your yeast at all? This was my first time using dry yeast and the opinions on how to pitch it are varied to say the least. I had two packets so I just pitched it right in dry as I read enough opinions on that way working just fine. I had action in my airlock within 8 hours or so of pitching so I'd say I was just fine not re-hydrating!

I used dry all the time and rehydrate. My airlock hasn't started going but it was so cool when I pitched I'm not too worried. In a couple of days I'll check gravity and if no change Ill throw a packet in.

I am a relatively new brewer and I am looking to brew this in the near future. I am putting together a recipe on beersmith so it'll be ready when the time comes.

Are there any good liquid yeast alternatives to using the US-05 dry yeast that will give the same/similar product? I just prefer using liquid yeast as of lately.

Thanks in advance!

Also, this might be a dumb question but I have never encountered this in any of my brews. When it says add hops at "0" minutes does that mean to add the hops to the BK at flame out so they will be in the BK while I'm chilling the wort? Or does this mean to add them directly to the fermentor right before pitching the yeast? (Wouldn't that be considered a dry hop?)

Thanks.

I just realized I have everything on hand to brew this, except columbus. Would chinook be an acceptable sub? I don't have experience with Columbus, so looking for some insight. Thanks!

MikeCass said:

Also, this might be a dumb question but I have never encountered this in any of my brews. When it says add hops at "0" minutes does that mean to add the hops to the BK at flame out so they will be in the BK while I'm chilling the wort? Or does this mean to add them directly to the fermentor right before pitching the yeast? (Wouldn't that be considered a dry hop?)

Thanks.

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Adding hops at zero minutes means adding them to your kettle at flameout. I actually let my wort sit for about 15 minutes stirring it every few minutes or so to give it a whirlpool affect before I start chilling it with my wort chiller...

I did what MMJfan did... I did a whirlpool/soak for like 15. I used pellets and just threw all the hops in throughout the various additions. Expect a ton of hop matter to deal with. I actually cooled mine to about 90 and then put in the freezer for 4 hours... it was at about 50-55 when I finally pitched my rehydrated yeast. That was saturday night at about 10pm. Last night I took a sample and had a good layer of krausen and awesome aroma. temp inside fermenter was 66 and sitting in a water bath at 64-5. gravity was at about 1.046. Took a taste and the malt flavor that was pronounced at the initial tasting has subsided and is replaced with a nice bitter citrusy taste that lasts. Going to dry hop in about 7 days after I reach FG.

I did rack mine to a new fermenter when I pulled it from freezer (it was in a fermenter covered) so I could eliminate some more hop mass.

MikeCass said:

I am a relatively new brewer and I am looking to brew this in the near future. I am putting together a recipe on beersmith so it'll be ready when the time comes.

Are there any good liquid yeast alternatives to using the US-05 dry yeast that will give the same/similar product? I just prefer using liquid yeast as of lately.

Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

Here you go for thel iquid yeast

WHITE LABS WLP001 CALIFORNIA ALE YEAST OR
WYEAST 1056 AMERICAN ALE YEAST OR

wickman6 said:

I just realized I have everything on hand to brew this, except columbus. Would chinook be an acceptable sub? I don't have experience with Columbus, so looking for some insight. Thanks!

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Here is a thread I had about this topic when I was getting ready to do it...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/columbus-replacement-424788/

Dry hopped round 1 two days ago and took gravity reading...1.01
tates good out of primary. I look forward to the final product!

What is the SRM you guys have been getting for this recipe? I plugged it all into Beersmith and I am getting 6.3 with 8.3% ABV. This SRM seems low considering some of the pictures posted earlier in the thread. Any insight?! I was thinking I would get a SRM closer to 8.

Edit: I am doing All-Grain.

I ended up using .6 of C-60 so I was just under 10.

Down to1.017-9. About there. Brewed last weekend. Time for dry hop probably on Monday.
Clearer pics from today. Other pics are from Tuesday and right after put in fermenter.

Just added the first round of dry hops to my first attempt at this. I am using a couple of stainless steel hop "baskets" in the keg attached to some glide floss. Will remove next weekend, add the second round of hops, and then bright. Aroma is pretty amazing right now!! I am at 1.010, from 1.080 so it should have a heck of a kick to boot. This is going to be a beast and won't last long, I can imagine. I have had Pliny fresh in the bottle and on tap, so I am hoping this approaches that flavor and aroma, as it is one of my favorite brews. Living on the East Coast, it is hard to get this wonderful elixir. Luckily I am heading to CA soon, so liver beware!

Cheers!

The tasting of my first attempt at pline the elder.....wow!
Hands down best beer i have done to date. Thanks for the recipe it is super!

Pics

Started dry hop today. Racked on top of hops. Down to about 5.2 gal after another few inches of true loss. You can smell the hops from 20 feet away. Amazing. Got gravity down to 1.011 from 1.075. Bit stronger than I thought.

Just added my first dry hop addition yesterday. Took a fermometer reading and it was down to 1.020 down from 1.080 so things are progressing well there. Tasted the sample and all I have to say is I can't wait for this thing to be done! Holy hell was it good and that's without any dry hopping being done yet.

This one is going to be a good one for sure!

I know I'm excited... Wish I had a keg set up so I didn't have to keep it bottled!

So am I right in thinking that this recipe will only be in the fermentation chamber for about 2.5 weeks with all the hop additions and all?

Because in vinnys article he says to rack to a secondary and add first hop addition when fermentation subsides, but also says to hop for only up to 14 days then cold crash, and keg. That sounds to me like 2.5 weeks. Is that what everyone else did?

That is probably about right. I brewed 13 days ago. I dry hopped last sunday. Will do second dry hop on Saturday-sunday and then Cold crash next weekend and bottle shortly after.

I wish I had a keg set up for it. Smells phenom.

I think I started dry hopping mine after 8-10 days. Cant really remember. Its not going to hurt anything if you add the first DH at the very tail end of fermentation. Wont make it stop short of your desired FG.

One thing to be careful of is your headspace. You dont want your dry hop additions to oxidize. Be very careful of it. This is especially true if using whole hops. If using pellet its not that big of a deal but it can still happen.

I was going to use pellets in a weighted bag. Did you move to a secondary? I've never done that and don't want to oxidize.

I added my first dry hop addition after 7 days of fermenting which was last Sunday. I'm planning on adding the 2nd hop addition tomorrow and then bottling 6-7 days later.

I too used hop pellets in a weighted hop sack. And I never transfer to secondary fwiw.

The only beer I brew that I transfer to a carboy is a pumpkin ale. I add about 60 oz of canned pumpkin to the boil which produces a fair amount of trub so I find it easier to just transfer to secondary to get rid of most of the trub before I rack it to the bottling bucket at bottling...

MMJFan, What are you doing to eliminate the trub for the Pliny? I actually have racked 2 times since boil and each time had a ton of trub. When you bottle do you screen yours as well or just try to avoid getting as much as possible into the bottle bucket

sok454 said:

MMJFan, What are you doing to eliminate the trub for the Pliny? I actually have racked 2 times since boil and each time had a ton of trub. When you bottle do you screen yours as well or just try to avoid getting as much as possible into the bottle bucket

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I just try to avoid getting as much as possible into the bottling bucket. When I see the tube from the auto siphon getting cloudy, it's time to stop...

I just feel like racking to a different vessel just opens up the possibility for infection more than just letting it ride and I really don't care if I lose out on some clarity in my beers as a result. They're still going to taste pretty much the same either way.

My first brew I ever made was an IPA that called for dry hopping with 2 oz of whole leaf hops. As a newb, I thought it was automatic to transfer to a secondary vessel which was a carboy for me. Just getting the whole leaf hops into the carboy was a serious PITA. And then when it came time to rack to my bottling bucket, I probably lost close to 2 gallons because my auto siphon kept getting clogged despite my putting a mesh sock over the tip of it?! It was then that I did some research and found that a lot of brewers don't even bother racking to a secondary vessel especially when brewing beers that require a dry hop addition and so I've been just letting them ride in my primary fermenting buckets ever since with no problems...

Just added my 2nd dry hop addition this morning and took another fermometer reading and we're still at 1.020. Not a biggie as I was up at 1.080 for the OG so that still puts me in at an ABV of almost 8!

Tasted the sample and all I can say is WOW! I think I can honestly say this is the best IPA I've made to date and I've made some killer clones of Bells Two Hearted!

I'm a big University of Michigan fan and I'm planning on making this my house seasonal IPA for Michigan football season and I'm calling it Big House IPA!

My Two Hearted clone is my year round house IPA as it isn't quite as expensive to brew compared to this with all the hops it takes...

I recommend you screen your beer every step of the way. This is how I do it:

- I have a stainless steel hop screen, basically a cylinder 6" wide by 14" deep. When I transfer the mash to the boil kettle, it goes through this screen and captures any loose particles, husks, etc.
- I put my hops in the basket during the boil to keep the hop gunk mostly out of the final product
- I recirculate after flame out through the basket; this captures the break material and most anything else that was created/added to the boil
- I have a screened funnel for my transfer to the carboy - this used to clog badly, now I only get a small bit of sediment in 12 gallons of wort

I end up with extremely clean, clear wort in my carboys. Add yeast and the beer ends up very clean.

- When I dry hop, I use a similar stainless steel hopper in the carboy and/or keg to put my dry hops in.

This is how I did my PtE clone that is about to be tapped (CAN'T WAIT!). It is very clean and when I washed the yeast there was almost zero trub. There is a thread on here (search for hop gunk) that details these devices. A couple of folks are making them these days and I think they were a great addition to my brew setup.

Cheers!

Second dry hop in tonight. Fg fell to 1.008 solooking around 8.8% abv. Tasted good.

I just brewed this one yesterday and today it was fermenting so much that It was foaming out of the airlock and popped the lid on the bucket up a bit. I've never had that before so in a panic I removed about 1/2 gallon of beer from the bucket to lower the volume. Only later did I realize that people use blow off tubes for such a situation. I also missed my og by about 10 points so I had to add some dme to bring it up. I hope this batch still comes out good after all these problems.

keezerj said:

I just brewed this one yesterday and today it was fermenting so much that It was foaming out of the airlock and popped the lid on the bucket up a bit. I've never had that before so in a panic I removed about 1/2 gallon of beer from the bucket to lower the volume. Only later did I realize that people use blow off tubes for such a situation. I also missed my og by about 10 points so I had to add some dme to bring it up. I hope this batch still comes out good after all these problems.

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Relax don't worry you know the rest

Should I move this to a secondary and add dry hops when fermentation is complete or when fermentation is almost complete to scrub out any o2? I'm afraid if I move it off the yeast cake it won't attenuate all the way. (I usually don't secondary but was going to for this one)

keezerj said:

Should I move this to a secondary and add dry hops when fermentation is complete or when fermentation is almost complete to scrub out any o2? I'm afraid if I move it off the yeast cake it won't attenuate all the way. (I usually don't secondary but was going to for this one)

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There really isn't a right or wrong answer to this. It's basically about personal preference. I never rack my beers to secondary and never have had any problems and this one was no different. But there are others who always rack to secondary and would probably encourage you to do that. Really it's up to what makes you most comfortable in the end...

I did what MMjFan... but had the same question to rack or not.

My question MMJfan is do you go and immediately bottle after the 2nd dry hop? Or do you remove the hops and then cold crash it for 24-48 hours?

My timeline is usually to let it finish fermenting which is generally 7-10 days. If I'm not dry hopping, I just let the beer ride in my fermenting bucket (primary) for about 2 weeks total from when I rack the wort to my fermenting bucket to when I rack to my bottling bucket.

If I'm dry hopping, I'll add the hops in a hop sock tied to some fishing line to the handle of my bucket. I do this after the 7-10 days of fermenting. I generally will dry hop for 5-7 days. I then remove the hop socks and rack to my bottling bucket for bottling.

I've never cold crashed, but I am actually trying it for this brew just to see if I can get a bit more clarity. We'll see if I get any different results or not...

If you want this super clear, fine it with gelatin.

Cheers!

stonebrewer said:

If you want this super clear, fine it with gelatin.

Cheers!

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Hmm. I might give that a try next time. Bottling this bad boy today so I don't have time to fine this batch...