help with the AG upgrade!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

defenestrate

Senior Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,024
Reaction score
7
Location
edgewater
well im getting some more stuff for xmas, and just need to double check if what im asking for is correct. right now this is my set up.
1119081243_1_1.jpg

now i pretty much have decided to get another cooler (same size) for the HLT, and pump, and quick disconnects. now i just need you guys to make sure this is going to all work out .
pump March High Temperature Brewing Pump | MoreBeer

quick disconnects
female Brass Hose - Female QD | MoreBeer

male Brass Hose - Male QD | MoreBeer


ok, so now the questions. the male fittings will each thread into the valves in the kettle and coolers. now, does the hose connect to the female fitting in any special way? and about into the pump?

i imagine i also could use a ball valve on the outlet of the pump, do i need anything other than a nipple out of the valve?

i know i will need 3 males on the coolers and the kettle, and a female for the inlet to the pump and also one for the outlet, correct? anything im missing?

thanks for the patience in advance guys.
 
so a 1/2 inch male in the kettle(or the MLT/HLT) to a female on the hose, connected to a 1/2 barb threaded into the pump, ball valve with a 1/2 inch barb in the outlet, and the outlet hose with another female QD. sound about right?

i feel a little stupid asking this, but do the hoses just slip into the female QD's? do you need a clamp for the hose and the barb for the inlet?
 
A friend of mine put a bunch of these from McMaster Carr on his system, and they provide high flow, no leaks and aren't too expensive:

Male QD to 1/2 male NPT thread: 6739K59 $1.75
Female QD to 1/2 hose barb: 6739K64 $6.01
 
very cool. so that narrows down the QD's.

i assume just use a threaded 3/8 barb for the inlet and the outlet of the pump?

I could be wrong, but I think it's actually 1/2". The pump head is MIP, so you'll need a FIP ball valve for the output (never restrict the intake, only the outlet) and a FIP male QD. Most people put the male part of the QD on all their "things" like kettles, pumps, etc. and use the female part on both side of their hoses. That way you can swap your hoses easier, and buy less of the $$$ female qd's. You don't want any hose directly hooked up to anything (like a pump) because you'll want to take them off for cleaning and hanging dry. It makes for better storage, too. I've been happy with this setup; I use 3 8 ft hoses between all my stuff, and it works well.
 
I could be wrong, but I think it's actually 1/2". The pump head is MIP, so you'll need a FIP ball valve for the output (never restrict the intake, only the outlet) and a FIP male QD. Most people put the male part of the QD on all their "things" like kettles, pumps, etc. and use the female part on both side of their hoses. That way you can swap your hoses easier, and buy less of the $$$ female qd's. You don't want any hose directly hooked up to anything (like a pump) because you'll want to take them off for cleaning and hanging dry. It makes for better storage, too. I've been happy with this setup; I use 3 8 ft hoses between all my stuff, and it works well.

when i was saying 3/8, i meant the barb, the threads that i was speaking off are 1/2-sorry for the confusion. ok so here is a quick drawing (amazing, i know) of what i will get-
1209081054.jpg


total of 5 males for the 2 coolers, kettle, and 2 for the inlet and outlet of pump. 4 females, 2 for each hose. ball valve for the outlet of the pump.

all the males being 1/2 thread - 3/8 barb from mcmaster-carr 6739K59
females being the 3/8 coupling from " " 6739K64

ballvalve Brass Ball Valve 1/2" Pipe Size, Male X Female 47865K43 (threads INTO the pump, with a male QD threaded into it)

looking good?
 
Nice drawing, I like your use of chiaroscuro shading and contour...it really brings that boil kettle to life!!! Seriously tho, thanks for posting this. I just did a sketch of the same exact thing yesterday, as I will soon be buying a pump as well. Once christmas has passed, daddy gets to spend whatever is left over :D!
 
Nice drawing, I like your use of chiaroscuro shading and contour...it really brings that boil kettle to life!!! Seriously tho, thanks for posting this. I just did a sketch of the same exact thing yesterday, as I will soon be buying a pump as well. Once christmas has passed, daddy gets to spend whatever is left over :D!

hey no problem, im glad some one else gets a little reassurance!! now if i can just bring the pros in to verify what im going to buy :rockin::mug:
 
are the Polypropylene 1/2" NPT Coupling's you are suppose to use on the inlet and outlet of the pump have male x female threads? basically i need to know how i would attach the male QD to the inlet, and the ball valve in the outlet of the pump...
 
Here is how I did it, I am having trouble folling what you are asking for. The pump has MALE threads that are 1/2". Best to keep all of your fittings and hoses 1/2"... trust me. On the INLET do this:

1/2" BARB x 1/2" FEMALE thread attach the hose to one end with a clamp and the other to the pump.

On the OUTLET do this:

1/2" full port ball vave that is FEMALE x FEMALE. Screw it on the pump and then thread the 1/2" BARB x 1/2" MALE thread into the other end of it. Clamp the hose on the barb and you are done.

I do not have QDs on my pump connections because they are totally unnecessary, but you can put them on if you like.

Here are the QDs that are used on my rig, from McMaster. Females are barbed and go on hose ends and males are threaded and attach to the pump and vessels.

6739K64 6 Each High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Sleeve-lck Sckt X Barb, 3/8"cplg Sz,1/2"hose Id

6739K59 7 Each High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Plug, 1/2" Nptf Male, 3/8" Coupling Size
 
Here is how I did it, I am having trouble folling what you are asking for. The pump has MALE threads that are 1/2". Best to keep all of your fittings and hoses 1/2"... trust me. On the INLET do this:

1/2" BARB x 1/2" FEMALE thread attach the hose to one end with a clamp and the other to the pump.

On the OUTLET do this:

1/2" full port ball vave that is FEMALE x FEMALE. Screw it on the pump and then thread the 1/2" BARB x 1/2" MALE thread into the other end of it. Clamp the hose on the barb and you are done.

I do not have QDs on my pump connections because they are totally unnecessary, but you can put them on if you like.

Here are the QDs that are used on my rig, from McMaster. Females are barbed and go on hose ends and males are threaded and attach to the pump and vessels.

6739K64 6 Each High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Sleeve-lck Sckt X Barb, 3/8"cplg Sz,1/2"hose Id

6739K59 7 Each High Flow Hose Coupling For Coolant, Plug, 1/2" Nptf Male, 3/8" Coupling Size

ok, this i understand. i had originally planned for this, but then when i was looking at the pump on AHS they say that you need to use plastic couplings on the pump because threading metal on to the pump can damage it...so you dont use those couplings?
 
Metal components wont hurt it... a lot of elbow grease will. As with anything, use common sense and you will be fine. Use teflon tape on everything on your rig, and the pump is no exception. Do not use crushing power to tighten the fittings, make them snug and leak proof. No worries, this aint as hard as it sounds sometimes. And, WE are all here to help.

Id compare the advice of not using metal components on the pump housing because it will harm it, to telling people that if you use credit cards for everything, you will go into debt. I have not carried a lick of cash on me in at least three years, and we are debt free... sometimes you have to dumb things down to take into consideration those without common sense or self control.
 
alright, i think i'm finally good to go. the reason for all the uncertainties is that i'm probably getting the majority of this stuff for xmas, and, just like a little kid, i hate when my toys dont work. thanks a lot gents, i'll be sure to post pics when its all said and done.
 
I do what I can locally... shipping is not something that adds value to my rig. I have found a GREAT hardware here in Indy that has almost everything I need to complete my electric conversion! At rock bottom prices too!
 
is there a reason a lot of people dont seem to use the silicon tubing over the reinforced tubing besides cost?

I don't use it because it's vinyl. It's rated for pressure, not temperature. Silicone is just the opposite, and it does not react with chemicals or impart off flavors/harmful chemicals.

The Pol and others may disagree, but you can leech chemicals from the tubing at high temps. This can sometimes result in plasticky flavors. It probably goes away after a while....I was actually using it in my mashtun to connect the false bottom to the bulkhead fitting, but try to avoid it now if i can.
 
maybe im confused but the silicon tubing has a higher rating for temp, lower for pressure, and the reinforced tubing has a higher pressure/lower temp.


You are correct, Silicone is rated for higher temperature than vinyl(PVC) reinforced tubing. Vinyl is a little stiffer by it self, plus with the woven in reinforcement will allow it to hold a higher pressure, but is probably not rated past 175-200F. However, if you did need it, you can by silicone reinforced tubing which can withstand higher pressure if needed. I took a quick look at McMaster and it is about $8 a foot.
 
You are correct, Silicone is rated for higher temperature than vinyl(PVC) reinforced tubing. Vinyl is a little stiffer by it self, plus with the woven in reinforcement will allow it to hold a higher pressure, but is probably not rated past 175-200F. However, if you did need it, you can by silicone reinforced tubing which can withstand higher pressure if needed. I took a quick look at McMaster and it is about $8 a foot.

thats a little steep to say the least. the silicon is 30 psi burst...i dont think it will burst with the march pump. atleast i hope not, morebeer.com recommends using the silicon with the magnetic pumps...
 
yeah i use some already w/o the pump, i use it for running off my wort from the mash and draining my keggle, it holds up very nice to the heat-although they say its not recommended for tap water pressure, i dont know if that means just gravity or not? it did seem to run a little slow...
 
Back
Top