Hey everyone, I'm in the process of brew my first batch of beer. I stuck with a pretty simple kit for my first run. (http://www.brewerylane.com/beer/brewhouse.html) I chose the Pale Ale. Just wondering if anyone has some pointers they would like to share. I'm 2 days into my primary, hoping to rack around the 4th or 5th day to my secondary( 6.5 gal glass carboy). Directions say 3-5. Is it a problem if my primary isn't air tight? It's a food grade pale that came with my equipment, but it does not have a air tight seal. I placed a Sheet of wood over the lid with some weight on top to hopefully create a better seal, but its definitely not air tight. Any suggestions or pointers on any of my past steps or future steps are greatly appreciated!
First Brew, putting the research to work....
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Brulosopher
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First off, it is absolutely unnecessary to transfer to secondary and I'd recommend you simply leave it in primary for 14-21 days before bottling. This has become very common practice among many of us who have been up to this for awhile, to the point it is probably the norm nowadays.
Regarding the not so air tight bucket... you'll be fine. However, it's likely the lid will actually create an air tight seal, you'll just have to manhandle it the first time. I've got some buckets that actually required the use of a rubber mallet, but after the first time, they whipped into shape and seal up nicely now.
Cheers!
Regarding the not so air tight bucket... you'll be fine. However, it's likely the lid will actually create an air tight seal, you'll just have to manhandle it the first time. I've got some buckets that actually required the use of a rubber mallet, but after the first time, they whipped into shape and seal up nicely now.
Cheers!
Puddlethumper
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I agree with Brulosopher. You don't need to do anything to it until bottling day. But I'm a little more concerned than he is about your bucket. Have gotten an infection in my brew that cost me several batches before I got it sorted out, so I'm easily spooked by things like you described.
First thing I would do is leave it alone as long as you can. The co2 given off by the fermentation will crowd out any oxygen laying on your beer and also create a slight positive flow out of the bucket. This should help keep any nasties from getting in. (Unless you want to try making a lambic on your first batch.). When you do lift your block of wood off I would lift it carefully to make sure you don't get any debris (fungus spores) on the lid then give the surface a nice spray of StarSan from a spray bottle. Soak a paper towel in StarSan and cover any opening in the lid. Don't let anything drip into that unsealed hole. Once that lid is off you should be fine.
First thing I would do is leave it alone as long as you can. The co2 given off by the fermentation will crowd out any oxygen laying on your beer and also create a slight positive flow out of the bucket. This should help keep any nasties from getting in. (Unless you want to try making a lambic on your first batch.). When you do lift your block of wood off I would lift it carefully to make sure you don't get any debris (fungus spores) on the lid then give the surface a nice spray of StarSan from a spray bottle. Soak a paper towel in StarSan and cover any opening in the lid. Don't let anything drip into that unsealed hole. Once that lid is off you should be fine.
Puddlethumper
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Puddlethumper said:
leave it in primary for at least 3 weeks, no need to secondary. You dont want to secondary a 5 gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy anyway because of to much head space. Brew up another batch and stick it in the carboy to ferment. Get that pipeline going!! 
Never rack until the beer has reach final gravity (which it will not have done on the 4th day) and you probably shouldn't rack it at all. You can dry hop right in the primary when all yeast activity seems to have ceased, probably on about day 14. Here is a good explanation on the yeasts activity.
http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html
Use your hydrometer to determine when the yeast is done, not the airlock.
http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html
Use your hydrometer to determine when the yeast is done, not the airlock.
You would be better to leave the wood off your bucket. There are a few people who actually do open fermentations without any trouble. As long as you aren't next to a fan or register where there are moving air currents the CO2 should form a nice protective layer over your beer. Placing a piece of wood over your fermenter is a recipe for disaster though.
Thanks for all the feedback. Does anyone think I could ruin my batch if I don't follow their instructions? Also I was wondering if a lot of you are saying that you bottle straight from your primary? From my research I kinda assumed secondary was necessary for a clear clean beer?
When you move your beer from the primary fermenter to the bottling bucket you siphon above the yeast cake so you don't transfer much of the trub. If you get a little (I always do because I want alllll my beer) most of it will settle in the bottling bucket and stay there. If some gets into the bottle, no problem, it will settle in the bottom of the bottle and when you pour you just leave it in the bottle. Always rinse the trub from the bottle though and do it soon. Once the yeast dries in the bottle it is nearly impossible to remove.
Clear beer? You mean the kind that you can read through or the kind that the big boys sell that looks like water? Mine always has color but except for the porters and stouts you can see through it quite well. Even my wheat beers come out clear.
Why not do two batches and use both? That way you have a variety of beers to choose from? Plus you'll get to see the fermentation going on in the carboy. Warning: Fermentation of beer isn't always pretty nor is it exciting as it looks like nothing is going on for quite a while.
leave it in primary for at least 3 weeks, no need to secondary. You dont want to secondary a 5 gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy anyway because of to much head space. Brew up another batch and stick it in the carboy to ferment. Get that pipeline going!!
Use that 6.5 gal carboy to get a new beer going as I said before
Puddlethumper
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BeatsBrew said:
About the only way you can ruin your beer is to allow it to get an infection. Hence my concerns about that block of wood on top of your fermenting bucket. Even a clean looking piece of wood will have fungus spores all over it (they are only a couple microns in diameter so you won't see them). I don't know what those fungi might do to beer but I'd go really anal about sanitizing that bucket and lid before you pop it open.
As far as moving it or not moving it to a secondary it's really a matter of opinion and, as such, your call. I think most guys agree a couple of weeks in the primary isn't too long. I've used a secondary a lot and gotten some nice clear (and clean) beer without introducing any bad bugs in he process. I'd suggest you try it both ways on different batches of the same recipe and see if you notice a difference.
Puddlethumper said:
I will be sure to sanitize thoroughly. I think I might follow the instructions on this kit, but I'm really wanting to attempt the full out process with steeping and boiling and all that fun stuff. And suggestions on kettle size for someone who will never do more than 5 or 6 gal batches? Is it something you want to over size the pot for ?
Puddlethumper
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BeatsBrew said:
I've done quite a few batches of partial mash and extract beers in a 20 qt. pot. (It leaked at the rivets so was really only a 16 qt. for all practical purposes). I know some of the purists will tell you not to do the "topping off" bit, but if you boil a couple gallons ahead of time, you can steep your grains in 3 gallons then do your boil. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter, top it off with the sterilized water, pitch the yeast, seal it up and you are making beer.
If you do decide to get a bigger pot I'd suggest you look at the Brinkman turkey fryer they sell at Home Depot. 30 qt. pot and a 45,000 btu propane burner for $60. Add a propane tank and you are ready to do all-grain!
Puddlethumper
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Palmer, John J. -How to Brew, p.218
Brulosopher
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GRAIN
11.5 lbs US 2-Row
1.0 lbs Vienna Malt
HOPS
.5 oz Magnum @ 60 (26 IBU)
1 oz Fuggle @ 30 (10 IBU)
.75 oz Centennial @ 20 (9 IBU)
.75 oz Cascade @ 10 (4 IBU)
.75 oz Centennial @ 10 (5 IBU)
.75 oz Centennial @ 5 (4.5 IBU)
.5 oz Cascade @ 5 (2.5 IBU)
.75 oz Centennial @ flameout (5 min steep)
.75 oz Cascade @ flameout (5 min steep)
Dry Hop: 1 oz Centennial + .5 oz Cascade (added after 4-5 days of fermentation, leave beer in contact with dry hops for only 4 days)
YEAST
WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast (trust me on this)
Single infusion mash for 60 minutes at 150F.
Pitch yeast starter once wort is 64-65F, hold it there for 2 days, then let fermenting beer free rise up to 72F or so. Give it 10-14 days in primary, package (keg or bottle), then start drinking as soon as it's well carb'd.
Cheers!
Puddlethumper
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Wow! That's a lot of hops! Gonna have to try that recipe. Thanks!
