Heat Stick Question

Was at the hardware store when the makings of a heatstick jumped into my cart. The pic below shows the dry fit. I was wondering if it is safe to touch the metal while it's in operation becauce most pics I've seen has a plastic extension. Since my elbow is 15" I was just going to cap it. So is it safe to touch the metal while it's in operation or should I put a plastic extension on it?

If you plug it into a GFCI, (you'd be crazy not to) you should be fine. I'd use the plastic anyway, though. It won't get as hot as the metal.

I'm liking design 2 better. The "J" will allow this to hang nicely on my tall 6 gallon pot and still give me some plastic to hold on to.

Thanks for bringing up the GFIC, I hadn't thought of that. I would have to install one in my "brewhaus" but it got me thinking... I have a electric pressure washer that has a GFIC built into the plug that started leaking badly last year so I won't be using it again. I'll have to check the cord and see if it will handle the 2000 watt element. I'm not sure how to do that other than to eyeball it as "pretty darn thick" or "that's just to thin". I'm remembering that it's not much thicker than an orange outdoor extension cord that I commonly run power tools/compressor on... but they aren't drawing that much wattage I'm sure.

I'm going to dial this back to 1500 watts instead of 2000. Less flipped circuits that way.

I checked the cord fromt the pressure washer and it's only 16 gauge, but only 2 wire. How can a gfic plug be so if it doesn't have a ground?

Contrary to popular myth, a GFCI will work just fine without a ground wire. That is why the NEC requires all ungrounded circuits in older homes to be GFCI protected when replacing the old 2-prong receptacles with grounded receptacles.

That said, 16 gauge wire isn't big enough. Get yourself back to the hardware store and get some 12-3 SO cord . That'll take care of it.

When you have this working nicely, can you post a parts list? My gas stovetop boil is slowing me down way too much.

Picobrew said:

When you have this working nicely, can you post a parts list? My gas stovetop boil is slowing me down way too much.

Click to expand...

How to Build an Electric Homebrewing Heatstick Audio Tutorial Podcast and Step by Step Photo Instructions

+1 on recklessDeck's link . i followed it and it works great. the picture from the poster looks simpler though. did you use any epoxy?

I like this method for bonding the ground wire to the drain pipe, very simple yet effective.

alfter.us - Heatstick Construction

Coat all the internal connections w/ jb weld epoxy, also apply jb weld liberally to the interior of the unit prior to assembly so as to waterprof the head. I use a couple of electrical zip ties on the cord just inside the end cap to provide strain relief.

I'd still want to use a ground attached to that outer tube.

Bobby,

The pic shows a rubber washer b/w the heating element and the tube, the author corrects this and says not to use one.

When assembled, the ground wire is nicely crushed b/w the outer tube, the heating element, and the large nut that retains the element so all three are grounded and common to one another. At the end of the day, I feel this works as well as a #6 bolt through the outer tube which also makes another penetration to waterproof.

Any feedback is appreciated as I greatly prefer only one end of the stick to get "hot".

ps: when is the next bulk grain buy?

Yeah, I wasn't being specific about where the ground should attach but I certainly would want it coupled to the large metal handle somehow. I think the element thread location is as good as any.

Grain? I haven't gone through the last batch yet... not enough brew time!!

Does anyone ever use a heat stick in conjunction with propane burner? My SQ14 burner takes quite a while to bring 14gal to a boil, and I was hoping I could reduce this time by adding a head stick.

drunkatuw said:

Does anyone ever use a heat stick in conjunction with propane burner? My SQ14 burner takes quite a while to bring 14gal to a boil, and I was hoping I could reduce this time by adding a head stick.

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Yes, and it works well to get to a boil faster.

I decided to scale down to 1500 watts because 2000 would probably just pop the breakers too often. When I bought the 2000 watt element the local hardware store was out so I ordered a 1500 online that should be here tomorrow. I went back to the local hardware store to by some 12 gauge for the cord... and of course they had the 1500's back in stock.

Today's project related to heatstick: Portable GFIC. Since my 1952 built house doesnt have them and I willl change brewing locations based on season, I felt it best to keep it portable.

I like the portable GFI outlet, I might have to copy the idea, perhaps use a double box w/ a switch to power the stick...then again that could be prone to inadvertant firing?

Finished Product:

15" drain Elbow: $14
1500 Watt Element: $11
10 Feet 12 Gauge wire: $10
15 Amp plug: $4
JB Weld: $6
Plastic Crap: $4

I had the plastic crap already so It's just a guess on price. Total was right around $50 and that doesn't include the other $ on the GFIC portable plug.

All in All this wasn't the cheapest project. If only they had sent me the correct Allied Bucket Warmer I orded I wouldn't have done this.

I'm wondering if you can use to much JB Weld. I nearly emptied a full tube(s) of this and the inside is swimming in it and I plastered it on the outside seams. It certainly should NOT leak.

My brother is coming over tomorrow to help (get drunK) me make up an AG batch, I guess I'll find out then how it works.

Attach the ground to the outer tube with a brass bolt and nut. Put a dab of JB Weld over the outside of the ground bolt to prevent liquid contamination.

Be sure you are using a 20 AMP rated GFCI and plug. Make sure you are plugging into a 20 AMP circuit.

I am using a 2000 watt element and have not tripped a breaker yet. I use propane and the stick to get my wort to a rolling boil, then maintain the boil with the stick alone. I only burn gas for about 15 minutes that way.

I have done several VERY light brews with this method lately, and have detected no noticeable carmelization.

These should never make it to the required 230F needed to caramelize fructose, unless your wort is crazy thick. The other sugars don't even come close to caramelizing until well past 300F.

drunkatuw said:

Does anyone ever use a heat stick in conjunction with propane burner? My SQ14 burner takes quite a while to bring 14gal to a boil, and I was hoping I could reduce this time by adding a head stick.

Click to expand...

I use both together to get the boil going, then just use the stick to keep it rolling. That way, I only have to burn propane for about 15 minutes or so.

If your going back to the hardware store pick up a ground fault. It should fit in your existing electrical box.