American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Robar said:
I followed the recipe even with the mashing 3.5gal, 5qt. 3.25gal Some of my volume loss comes from the hops in the bottom as I don't pour that in. The efficiency is what it is. I am not apposed to buying spring water but it seems like bumping the grain bill 5-10% is cheaper.

I strain mine, so I get all my beer. I work at getting 6.5 gallons of wort and boil it down to 5.5 gallons for my fermentor. That gives me enough for a couple of hydrometer jars and spillage.

I mentioned the water because of your high alkaline level. If your beer turns out good, then never mind. It's amazing how much difference the water can make though.
 
Generally speaking I think my beer turns out pretty good. Using the product Five-Two brings the PH to 5.2 The first few brews I did turned out very bad as I didn't realize my PH was so far out of wack. My water tastes good and my garden grows well so I never gave a thought to the PH of my water. Well I learned about it the hard way as I dumped the first three batches I brewed.

I am thinking about running a side by side test though. One treated tap water and one spring water to see how different it tastes, just so I know. If it isn't very noticable then I'll continue to use my tap water. If it is different then I will have to seriously think about ponying up for the spring water when doing the lite ales. My stouts and ambers taste great I haven't turned out a decent APA or IPA to be able to tell. Though I have a couple fermenting now(Yours and a Stone IPA clone).

Ed you mention straining out the hops. What do you use to strain them out? I have a large funnel that has a fine screen insert, but it plugs up so fast it would take forever to strain the hops out of a gallon of slop.
 
Robar said:
Ed you mention straining out the hops. What do you use to strain them out? I have a large funnel that has a fine screen insert, but it plugs up so fast it would take forever to strain the hops out of a gallon of slop.

This is what I use. Got it at Target. Stainless and it does a great job at aerating the wort when I pour through it.

4569-Strainer.jpg


If you ferment in Carboys, I would recommend using hop bags. I do now. They work great. They roll with the boil up and back down, and they keep 98% of the hops in them. I get great utilization with them too. No difference so far.
 
Funny!!
I have a simular device and never thought to use it to strain the hops. Thats a sure sign of either; to many toys in the toybox or old age. I vote we go with he toybox theory.

I may also look into a hop bag. Do use one for dry hopping as well?

Thanks again for all the help and info.
 
I dry hop in the keg, so I use a Herb Ball like this.

kkapers2_1966_226262096


Just sanitize it, put your hops in, drop it in the keg. It sinks right to the dip tube.
 
My wife is night manager at a large regional grocer/department store and I am having her look tonight. She says that she knows they sell tea balls that look simular. Maybe the SWMBO can hook me up.

The haus pale I made last night is going pretty slow. I cooled it to 79f then poored it into the bucket through my strainer funnel then pitched the yeast. I would guess the wort was 75-77f by then so tem can't be the problem. It was bubbling a little earlier today but not much tonight I have no kraeusen ring so it can't have been flash fermented. I give it some swirl and then it will bubble for a while then nothing. I shouldn't have to do that at all. The wort was aerated very well as it had close to 3" of foam on top when I pitched the yeast. Any ideas?
 
EdWort said:
RDWHAHB. Patience pays off with Homebrew.

What does RDWHAHB mean? Tried for a while to figure it out, but can't get this one.

After the big swirl I gave it it has been doing a little bit of activity so I am breathing easy again.
 
Robar said:
What does RDWHAHB mean? Tried for a while to figure it out, but can't get this one.

After the big swirl I gave it it has been doing a little bit of activity so I am breathing easy again.
Relax...Don't Worry...Have a Home Brew... ;)
 
I figured out what was retarding my fermentation. I took great advice and sat back drank a home brew and the reason came to me. Lately now that it's cooler, I've been keeping my brews upstairs (Ground floor) until they start fermenting. When I finished this brew it was High 60's in the house. However while I sat drinking my brew it dawned on me that it was to warm. It was now in the higher 70's. Well I took it down to the basement where the temp was in the mid 60's and within about an hour and a half. Fermentation was picking up nicely. It would appear that the notting ham yeast does not like temps above it's listed range at all.
 
Today I did a little experimentation with my recipe. I added 1/2 pound of flaked barley (for 5 gallons) (since I have 50 pounds of the stuff). I also split my 10 gallon batch with two yeasts. Nottingham and Safale-05.

I'm going to tape the sensor of my freezer controller to one bucket and set the temp to 68 degrees. I'll report back any changes.

I'm expecting the flaked barley to add a little creaminess to the beer and better head retention.
 
EdWort said:
Today I did a little experimentation with my recipe. I added 1/2 pound of flaked barley (for 5 gallons) (since I have 50 pounds of the stuff). I also split my 10 gallon batch with two yeasts. Nottingham and Safale-05.

I'm going to tape the sensor of my freezer controller to one bucket and set the temp to 68 degrees. I'll report back any changes.

I'm expecting the flaked barley to add a little creaminess to the beer and better head retention.

Awesome ED, looking forward to hearing results! I decided to use your Bee cave Haus pale recipe as my testing/control beer. It's ridiculously easy to make and provides great beer. I'm brewing it 10 times in a row and changing only one thing (grains, mash temp, water, hops, etc.) at a time to record how the change effects the beer in the end. So far I'm 2 batches in using Amarillo hops with different amounts.

Thanks again Ed!
 
uuurang said:
Awesome ED, looking forward to hearing results! I decided to use your Bee cave Haus pale recipe as my testing/control beer. It's ridiculously easy to make and provides great beer. I'm brewing it 10 times in a row and changing only one thing (grains, mash temp, water, hops, etc.) at a time to record how the change effects the beer in the end. So far I'm 2 batches in using Amarillo hops with different amounts.

Sweet! The CONTROL Brew! Sounds like you are honing your skills. That's the way to do it, while brewing something good to drink while you are at it.

Nottingham ferments like crazy and my freezer was at 59 degrees for the first couple of days while the bucket was at 68. A nine degree differential. Wow!

Enjoy!
 
HA! What do you know? I was going to make the Haus Pale on Sunday, but plans fell through, so today was the day. I followed your instructions to the letter Ed and ended up with 5.5 gals (A first) maybe even a bit more, of Haus Pale coming in at OG1.050

If you'll remember last time I had 4.5 gallons at 1.041 What a difference! I couldn't be happier. Thanks once again Ed for all the help, hints, and encouragement. I feel as if a weight has been lifted from my brewing shoulders.
 
Well jumped on the band wagon and bought the stuff to do this brew, gonna be brewing it tonight. Only change was using a Cali. ale yeast. LHBS did not have any dry yeast in stock.
 
Is there an extract version of this recipe floating around? I've only seen the mini-mash version but don't think I am ready for that.
 
I just ordered my ingredients!!! I upped the 2 row a bit. I have been doing PM for a long while and have yet to dive into all grain. I have the set up for it and this recipe seems just hands down the best choice for my first all grain. I noticed an immediete change when I went to a true PM with a 5 gallon cooler. The beer was fresher and better. I am really excited about getting rid of DME and LME for good!!! Well only for PM in the dead of winter when there is no way in hell I would brew outside..

Grain should arrive this week!! :ban:

Jay
 
Well I must say this was a success. What an easy simple and nice recipe. I used 1 extra pound of 2 row just in case. My mash temp was a bit high..not sure how this will affect. I did hit a nice 1.052 orignial gravity.

First all grain..in the books... a nice fermentation the next morning.

Jay
 
discgolfin said:
Well I must say this was a success. What an easy simple and nice recipe. I used 1 extra pound of 2 row just in case. My mash temp was a bit high..not sure how this will affect. I did hit a nice 1.052 orignial gravity.

First all grain..in the books... a nice fermentation the next morning.

Jay
That's good to hear. I'm considering this one for my first foray into all grain as well. Keep us updated on how things progress.

Chad
 
Is converting this recipe to steeping grains/extract a simple as replacing the 2-row with the appropriate amount of LME? It seems I could steep the Vienna and Crystal before adding the LME. Am I on the right track?
 
richenrygarcia said:
Is converting this recipe to steeping grains/extract a simple as replacing the 2-row with the appropriate amount of LME? It seems I could steep the Vienna and Crystal before adding the LME. Am I on the right track?

Can you do full boils? If so, give this a try.

Heat 3.5 qts of water to ~168/169F in a pot.
Heat a gallon of water to ~170 in another pot.
Add 2lb. of Vienna and 1/2 lb. of Crystal 10L (crushed grains) to the pot with the 168/169F water and stir very throughly.
Put lid on that pot, placed in oven at 150F.
Let it sit for an hour.
Pour the water (now wort) into your brew pot through your strainer. Put grains back into pot.

Pour the 170F water into the pot where your grain is, stir throughly, let sit for 10 mins. Pour that wort into your brew pot through your strainer.

You'll get 50-60% efficiency with that partial mash method.

Add additional water, extract, and hops to the brew pot and proceed like usual.
 
Going for the 108th reply - I must say this has been a wonderful introduction to AG, with very little/no complication.

The results have been very well received, like at my neighbor's birthday party last night ...

EdWort - any NEW recipes in the making ?
 
kappclark said:
Going for the 108th reply - I must say this has been a wonderful introduction to AG, with very little/no complication.

The results have been very well received, like at my neighbor's birthday party last night ...

EdWort - any NEW recipes in the making ?

Thanks! Nothing at the moment. I'm busy with Teach a Friend to Homebrew and the next two weekends are busy with my son's Boy Scout activities.

This fall will be a prime time for a new quaffable brew using Pilsener malt since I have a couple hundred pounds of it. :D
 
jacobyhale said:
What would be the best substitute yeast for this recipe? My LHBS doesn't carry the dry nottinghams.

Wow, I can't believe the Beernut does not carry Nottingham, Windsor, or Safale Dry yeasts. They are missing the boat for their customers.

As ScubaSteve says, the WLP001 will work fine, but it defeats the purpose of my Haus Ale being Easy, Cheap, & Tasty. Give it a try, but if you end up liking the beer, order a bunch of Nottingham from someone who carries it.

Nottingham rocks, is cheap, no starter required, comes in handy if you get a stuck fermentation, and ferments very clean for a tasty beer.
 
It is possible that the Beernut does carry the yeast, as I've found their website to be unreliable at best. I'll go in and check it out tomorrow. If not, I don't plan on brewing until later on this weekend. Any recommendations on a shop to order the yeast from?
 
Oh, sorry but yet another question. They have several different types of 2row. The guy was telling me that Maris Otter was my best option, but what do you use? I'd like to stick as close to yours as possible.
 
Maris Otter is a great malted grain, but my recipe calls for simple 2 row pale.

Again, Easy, Cheap, & Tasty.
 
Just some FWIW hop U from out from under my pencil.

I did the PM version with 2# Vienna, 0.5# Crystal and 5# DME. I used 2.0 ozs of 5.9% Cascade. I turned off the heat and added all the DME with 15 minutes left in the boil. What I did was pause the clock, add the DME off the heat, return to heat, return to boil, restart clock, add 15 minute hops, continue. I ass/u/me zero additional hop U during the pause to dissolve.

With a 3 gallon boil and a 5.5gal ready to pitch OG of 1.050, I think I got 31 HBUs. I had to fudge alittle since I started the boil at 1.020. I would have expected 34.8 just off the 5.9% compared to EdWorts original 6.6%, obviously my U is lower.

Using one of the hop U calculators I concluded I would need 14.8 HBUs of hops to match the 39IBU edWort describes for the Ag version page one this thread.

EDIT: It occurs to me overnight matching IBU to IBU is not quite the whole picture. I feel like a big part of what makes an APA an APA is the balance between bitter- flavor - aroma. Judging by the uniformly positive reviews here EdWort struck a good balance. I am going to do the math twice more, once to see how many IBUs the AG version should produce at 60-30-15-5, and then go back and jiggle the hop rates for PM late DME version at the top of this post.

Using the Tinseth method from realbeer link:

http://realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html#units

I caluclate EdWort is getting 20.8 IBUs out of the (60), 7.9 (30), 2.6 (15) and 1.4 (5), ass/u/me his SG is constant at 1.050 on 5.5 gallons. So ballpark, on the
Tinseth table EdWort is getting 32.7IBU into his 5.5 gal ferment.

Using the same Tinseth chart for U and the *ME schedule from above, ...<standyby>


I think it will take 19.1 HBUs for a PM brewer to match the AG hop balance.

7.2 HBU @ 60 min will put 37.4 IBUs in the three gal boil
6.4 HBU @ 30 min = 14.2 IBUs in the boil
2.6 HBU @15 min = 4.7 IBU in the boil
2.9 HBU @5 min = 2.5 IBU in the boil

so then the 3 gal boil almost doubled (* 1.8 actual for 5.5 gallons)

32.67 IBUs in the fermenter, Tinseth method, should match pretty good on bitter-flavor - aroma. Gonna try it.

EDIT: 11-18-07 I bottled the first batch with 11.8 HBUs of cascades. It is good beer, I don't expect to pour it down the sink. In fact, I really like it, just not the hops I expect in an APA. Not an expert, this is hoppier than say Newcastle brown, but less hoppy than beer in a box English Pale Ale from Muntons. For now my second batch with the 19.1HBUs was still at 1.018 this AM, so maybe next weekend.

EDIT: 11-25-07 I got the 11.8HBU Cascades version bottled about a week ago. The 19.1 HBU Sterling version was bottled on 11.21-07 and the 21 HBU Saaz bitter / Chinnook aroma, flavor is still in secondary.

EDIT III: 11-29-07. I got into the first 5.9% Cascades batch tonight. Not fully carbonated yet, but :rockin:

EDIT IV: 12-08-07: I kegged my third batch about thirty minutes ago. I was shooting for F-W Pale hop clone, I used (60) 4.25HBU Saaz and 3.0HBU Hallertau. (30) was 6.4HBU Hallertau, (15) 3.78 HBU Chinook, (5) was 3.25 HBU Chinook. flat, about to force carb, it is close enough to start fooling with the grains and use all the same noble bittering hop next time.

EDITV: 02-02-08: The 21HBU version described in editIV is the best beer recipe I have ever tweaked. Once it was carbed this stuff kicked absolute butt. I started out trying to clone Firestone-Walker Pale. I think I surpassed them on hops balance. If I had the space to go all grain I would be going after their grain bill, but only because I like that beer so much.

EDIT VI: 02-09-08: I now agree with HB_99 from experience and I now add my *ME at flameout. All of the hop U calcs in this post on page 12 are for *ME addition with 15 minutes left in the boil. If you want to see some hop U for *ME at flameout, jump forward to post 272 on page 28 this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=550033&postcount=272
 
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