American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

Has anyone used fresh hops for this? I grew some for the first time this year. I have about 30 oz of fresh cascade and about 12 oz of fresh chinook. What sort of hop schedule and amount would you use for the fresh hops? Would you use a pellet for the bittering hop and reserve the fresh hops for later?

Count your fresh hops on a 7:1 ration if you're using wet hops. Dried out, probably 2:1.

squeekybobo said:

Count your fresh hops on a 7:1 ration if you're using wet hops. Dried out, probably 2:1.

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Oh... And use pellet hops for bittering, since you don't really know the AA of your fresh hops for sure.

Enjoying some now, and will surely surprise son in law this weekend with this great, easy to brew beer...did this batch with 001, and I like the results

Thought I would mention that this was very well received at a Fantasy Football draft party tonight. It was great talking to a lot of people about home brewing (I was the only home brewer and this was my 1st AG). Glad to have a little left for my next draft party Sunday. Cheers!

Son in law was shocked !! OMG he kept saying..you should sell this !!

This beer consistently amazes people everytime ... it seems to have just enough but not too much of what makes a beer so satisfying, esp this time of year...

HbgBill said:

Bump.... anyone?? I know these are probably basic to most of you.. but, I'm still learning.. So, a copy of my post a few up...

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The salts in question are any of several common minerals added to brewing water to fine-tune it.

Pure H2O, such as RO water, will not make good beer. You need certain minerals in very small quantities for it to taste right. Different styles of beer are best with different styles of water. The water in Dublin, for example, has filtered naturally through whatever rock Ireland is made of and as a result is near perfect for Stouts, which led to the success of Guinness.

Altering the mineral makeup of your spring water, or creating your own brewing water from scratch starting with RO, is some seriously Advanced Chemistry, and not recommended for beginners. If you are interested in learning more, the Brew Science forum can get you started.

This thread is a great place to begin:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/

I've brewed this also with an OG of 1.055 and it was excellent. Last month I overshot for fun and hit 1.061 OG and 1.009 FG and that is too much. It's tasty enough but at almost 7% it is too strong Two beer limit is a good idea. Ed's original recipe is just about perfect. Thanks again Ed.

And BTW, I love strong beers. It's just not right for this style.

Took a Growler to a party this weekend and it didn't last at all! All of my BMC friends loved this one. Thanks Ed!

BuffaloBeer1 said:

Has anyone used fresh hops for this? I grew some for the first time this year. I have about 30 oz of fresh cascade and about 12 oz of fresh chinook. What sort of hop schedule and amount would you use for the fresh hops? Would you use a pellet for the bittering hop and reserve the fresh hops for later?

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I used an ounce of homegrown wet cascade hops in the last 5min addition. My third year cascades were a tasty addition.

Stick to late additions to play it safe, espically if your hops are young.

Btw, This recipe rocks! Thanks Ed.

Brewed this yesterday!

This is the most viewed, most replied, (most popular) thread on HBT. I can't wait to taste this brew. With more than 1/4 Million hits you know it's got to be good! :fro:

Can't wait to brew this next week. It will be my first all grain(like a lot of others!). Shop only had 1.5 vienna so i will use .5 munich. Now i am debating wether to do it as written or add a little citra or falconers flight(have an ounce of each).

so, I brewed this today...sort of. When I went to my LHBS, they were out of vienna. I allowed them to recommend victory malt in its place, not knowing much of anything about it. How is this going to turn out, you think? Besides being darker, of course

Just purchased ingredients per the recipe to brew this, but using Wyeast 1056 and starter. Pale ales have gone over well with guests and I'm brewing this one for Thanksgiving (4 week primary, 4 week bottle condition).

I have Edwort's apfelwein bulk aging for 6 months and am pretty sure his Bee Cave Brewery IPA is up next. It's hard to overlook recipes with so many replies. Thanks Edwort.

calebstringer said:

so, I brewed this today...sort of. When I went to my LHBS, they were out of vienna. I allowed them to recommend victory malt in its place, not knowing much of anything about it. How is this going to turn out, you think? Besides being darker, of course

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Probably fine - a little more nutty and bready perhaps.

Just thought I'd add my $0.02

I brewed up a recipe mainly based on this one a month ago and it's my first batch in my kegging setup.

I did 7/3/1 on the grain and a slightly different hop schedule (using up some hops on hand). It's really a good drinker. I'd highly recommend this to anyone who wants to try and start brewing.

This is easily the clearest beer that I've brewed as well. I use Irish Moss and a nice week-long cold crash. But I think that the kegging has helped out by keeping the beer cold and clearing it through what's basically an extended cold crash.

Some pics:

Just found a bottle of this in the closet. I thinks its been bottle conditioning around 8 weeks. So good!

I am enjoying this beer right now. I split my 10 gal batch using S04 and US05. S04 is the one on tap. It's quite tasty! I might be brewing this recipe again in the near future. If I change anything next time, I may split the 60 min addition with a FWH just to smooth out the bitterness a bit. But this a great brew as is! Thanks again for sharing.

Helly said:

This was one of two beers I recently kegged as my first venture into kegging. Really good stuff and I'm loving having a kegging setup. Can't wait to try this one again, will definitely do all-grain next time.

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Man I am loving this beer. SWMBO really enjoying it too. This keg won't last long. I'll be doing another batch very soon I'm sure.

Brewed 11 gallons of this with wet hops (15 & 5 min. additions) this morning.

Brewed my first all grain using this today. Boiled off to much. Have 5 gallons instead of 5.5. Gave me an Og of 1051. Very easy recipe, smells awesome, taste good so far. Can't wait for this to be done!

rossi46 said:

Brewed 11 gallons of this with wet hops (15 & 5 min. additions) this morning.

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I've been thinking of trying this, also. Keep us updated as to how it turns out and how it compares to the "normal."

chemdoc said:

I've been thinking of trying this, also. Keep us updated as to how it turns out and how it compares to the "normal."

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Will do.

I've brewed this beer a bunch of times it's definitely my go to house pale ale. Although Saturday I tried something different I used 9lbs of 2 row, substituted crystal 10 with 20 and used 1 oz of Warrior at 60min and 1 oz of Chinook at 30min. Can't wait 3 weeks and counting

I had some really old malt (about 3 years old) that I had to work through. Brewhouse efficiency was terrible (around 35%) as a result. So I used a pound of rice solids and a pound of dextrose that I had laying around to bump up the SG.

The result? An FG of 1.005. Man, this beer really thinned out. And I like it! I'm going to rearrange this recipe to incorporate rice adjuncts and get the ABV around 4.2%. Turn it into the perfect session beer.

hio3791 said:

I am enjoying this beer right now. I split my 10 gal batch using S04 and US05. S04 is the one on tap. It's quite tasty! I might be brewing this recipe again in the near future. If I change anything next time, I may split the 60 min addition with a FWH just to smooth out the bitterness a bit. But this a great brew as is! Thanks again for sharing.

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well now we need tasting notes on both batches.

I have a freezer full of hops that I need to start using. Which would work the best for this recipe: Columbus, Amarillo or Simcoe....or....a combination?

I would think Columbus would be closest to the recipe, but the others would make an interesting beer as well I think.

Recently bottled my 2nd batch based on this recipe.
This time I used the same grain bill and went with 1 oz. of Sorachi Ace as a first wort hop, used an additional 1 oz. of Sorachi Ace throughout the late additions and fermented with US-05.
Dry hopped with 2 oz. of Cascades.

Turned out really nice.
This grain bill is ideal to experiment with different hops and yeast.

I just did this one up this morning. I like keeping my numbers whole numbers just because my LHBS sells by the pound and crushes the grain. So if I want 0.5 lbs I have 0.5 lbs left over. Same with the 2-row which is sold in 10lbs bags. I didn’t want 2 lbs left over so I just upped the recipe. Might sound stupid but I like to use what I buy. When I get my own Barley Crusher I will bulk purchase and fine tune my grain bill. So here is what I put in:

GRAIN BILL:
10 lbs 2-row pale malt
2 lbs Vienna Malt
1 lbs Crystal 10L Malt

BOIL and HOPS:
1.0 oz Cascade 6.6% at 60 min.
0.5 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 30 min.
0.5 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 15 min.
1.0 oz. Cascade 6.6% at 5 min.

YEAST:
Safale 05

I ended up with an OG of 1.054 for 5.5 gallons

DSmith said:

Just purchased ingredients per the recipe to brew this, but using Wyeast 1056 and starter. Pale ales have gone over well with guests and I'm brewing this one for Thanksgiving (4 week primary, 4 week bottle condition).

I have Edwort's apfelwein bulk aging for 6 months and am pretty sure his Bee Cave Brewery IPA is up next. It's hard to overlook recipes with so many replies. Thanks Edwort.

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I brewed this 2 weeks ago, will be a 4 week primary before cold crashing & bottling. Mashed at 152F->150F (@ 60 min), controlled fermentation temp at 63F with Wyeast 1056, OG = 1.053, FG = 1.006 (6.2% ABV). I'll mash at 154F next time, but I've had dry beers go over very well.

Cold, wet, ugly day in Mississippi, perfect day to brew a session strength pale ale, stuck to the reciepe!!

I picked up all ingredients for this recipe yesterday an my LBHS,
got home, looked at the Nottingham yeast packet:
content 11g, pitching rate 1g per 1 liter.
http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/nottingham-ale-yeast

I am making 5.5 gal AG batch.
I paid $4.50 for this packet of dry yeast and now I need a second packet..
This dry yeast is almost $2 more expensive than any of their liquid yeast per 5 gal batch, what's up with that??
Is it superior to any other yeast or my LBHS simply needs money?

Do you guys pitch one 11g packet per 5gal batch or do you use 2 packets?

I will probly bite the bullet and make another trip to LBHS for a second packet since I may not have enough time to make starter now with liquid yeast.

But for future references, based on your tasting notes, which yeast would be the closest substitute in your opinion for Nottingham for this particular recipe?

I scanned this thread and closest strain WLP039 was renamed from Notti to East Midlands Ale Yeast
http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp039.html
and seems seasonal.
Other choices were Wyeast 1056, WLP007 Dry English Ale Yeast

vash68 said:

I picked up all ingredients for this recipe yesterday an my LBHS,
got home, looked at the Nottingham yeast packet:
content 11g, pitching rate 1g per 1 liter.
http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/nottingham-ale-yeast

I am making 5.5 gal AG batch.
I paid $4.50 for this packet of dry yeast and now I need a second packet..
This dry yeast is almost $2 more expensive than any of their liquid yeast per 5 gal batch, what's up with that??
Is it superior to any other yeast or my LBHS simply needs money?

Do you guys pitch one 11g packet per 5gal batch or do you use 2 packets?
I will probly bite the bullet and make another trip to LBHS for a second packet since I may not have enough time to make starter now with liquid yeast.

But for future references, based on your tasting notes, which yeast would be the closest substitute in your opinion for Nottingham for this particular recipe?

I scanned this thread and closest strain was renamed from Notti to some other
http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp039.html
and seems seasonal.

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5x10^9 cells per gram * 11 gram = 5.5x10^10 cells = 55 billion cells (most likely if the yeast is not rehydrated).

Yeastcalc.com recommends 200 billion cells for 5.5 gallons of 1.052 ale. This suggests a pitching rate of about 3-4 packages...

BUT, MrMalt cites about 20 billion cells per gram of dry yeast:
http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php

20x10^9 cells per gram * 11 gram = 2.25x10^11 cells (following rehydration instructions) = 220 billion cells.

Yeastcalc.com recommends 200 billion cells for 5.5 gallons of 1.052 ale. This suggests 1 package is fine with rehydration.

I've done this recipe a bunch and always use us-05 at the rate of one package per 5.5 gallons. Sometime I don't even rehydrate and have never had a problem.

Almost always 11 grams of dry yeast is good enough for 5.5 gallons of wort unless it's really high gravity. I always consult mrmalty.com for a backup check.

I only used 1 packet and it came out just fine. However, I am not a big fan of notty. Run it in the low 60's or it will come out with a fruity taste.

Thank you guys for your replies, esp for all the math provided by DSmith :rockin:

I had been using Wyeast and their calculator almost exclusively before and mrmalty's calc seemed a bit finiky to me. I will have to rethink that I guess.

I ended up re-hydrating a packet of Notti per their instructions (110g of 80F water) 30 min before I pitched it. Oxygenated 5 hours later after wort temp dropped to 70 ish. Next morning (18 hours later) fermenter is blowing strong at 68F

The Jamil Show Munich Dunkel has a discussion about dry yeast at about 2/3rds of the way through the show that supports the 20 billion cells per gram for rehydrated yeast.

http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jamil-Show/Munich-Dunkel-The-Jamil-Show-01-14-08