I have had it with my Plate chiller.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Orangevango

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Messages
596
Reaction score
5
I bought a Shirron Plate chiller from Austin homebrew and it has been nothing but trouble. Yesterday it got so badly clogged that I had to go buy ice and chill my beer in the bathtub. I whirlpool, but it never seems like enough. Some trub always ends up coming out with my beer, and with this chiller, that seems to make it useless. I think I am going to try to return it but I think they might not take it. I removed the sticker from the outside and it has been used 4 times (none of which were problem free)

I think I will get a Big ole` SS immersion chiller to replace it, it just isnt worth the headache.

I just wanted to get everyone's opinion and give any potential buyers the heads up about this chiller.
 
If you don't like it, use something else.

I've got a CFC and an immersion chiller. I'd swap either one with you for it.
 
Have you ever tried using a hop bag in your system to reduce trub? I use a Shirron and a hop bag in my boil kettle and have never had an issue with clogging. Yes, you will get few bits and pieces here and there, but nothing a hot soak in PBW won't take care of.
 
+1 for using a hop bag. I use a generic 30 plate chiller. Bag for pellets, and a false bottom for whole leaf. Never a clog. Gravity fed with only about 1 inch of drop.
 
I tried a hop bag for pellets once, and it failed miserably, they just escaped the bag.

I dont have a hopstopper, but im not sure that I could get one effectively attached due to the condtion of the inside bit of my bulkhead, I ruined the threads trying to get it tight enough to not leak. I emailed Austin homebrew to see about a refund on the chiller.
 
I tried a hop bag for pellets once, and it failed miserably, they just escaped the bag.

I dont have a hopstopper, but im not sure that I could get one effectively attached due to the condtion of the inside bit of my bulkhead, I ruined the threads trying to get it tight enough to not leak. I emailed Austin homebrew to see about a refund on the chiller.

Why would they give you a refund on a product that works great for so many people? That plate chiller is coveted by many! Sorry to hear of your difficulty, but it sounds like you need to filter your wort.
 
Yeah, I don't think you'll have any luck returning it after you've used it. You should be able to sell/trade it easy enough, though.
 
How would you recommend I filter my wort? Its not just hops that clog it, Its hot and cold break as well, and cold break forms IN the chiller if ive got the right idea about what cold break is.

I only used 2 oz. of pellet hops on yesterday's brew, that should not clog anything up.
 
Sorry bro' but you don't get a refund for not knowing what you are doing. If you do, it'll be a first and extremely generous on the part of AHB.

I had used the Shirron for a couple years with no issues before I upgraded to the Therminator. I have only ever twice used leaf hops in my history of brewing. All I use is the famed paint strainer hop sock but, I do recirculate at the end of boil to try to get break collected inside the hop sock.

Sounds like you need better focus on hop and break management.

Also, how are you cleaning the chiller between brews. that, IMO, is the only downside to brazed plate chillers is that it takes a LOT more to clean them. Try baking the chiller at 350*f for 2-3 hours. That should turn anything inside the chiller to ash and make it easier to clear.
 
Well, others have already put forth some great suggestions:

1. Hop stopper (you can DIY or buy one premade)
2. Hop screen (like a bazooka)
3. Hop bag (or the hanging type, which is what I prefer for pellets)
4. Hop ball (stainless steel herb/tea ball that can fit 1-2 oz of hops)
 
I'm positive you're not having a problem with cold break clogging the plate. If that happened, no one would be able to use one for brewing. You absolutely need some form of coarse straining on your bulkhead drain. If you're unable to do that, trade it for an immersion chiller.

2oz of pellet hops unrestrained would definitely choke a plate.
 
I tried a hop bag for pellets once, and it failed miserably, they just escaped the bag.

I dont have a hopstopper, but im not sure that I could get one effectively attached due to the condtion of the inside bit of my bulkhead, I ruined the threads trying to get it tight enough to not leak. I emailed Austin homebrew to see about a refund on the chiller.

What did you use for a hop bag? I use one with all of my pellet additions, and they're filled with a big ol' mess of hop sludge when I'm done; very little escapes. I've got a few larger hop bags that I must have bought from the HBS, but I just use the one-gallon paint strainer bags from Home Depot and don't have issues with things clogging up anymore.
 
What did you use for a hop bag? I use one with all of my pellet additions, and they're filled with a big ol' mess of hop sludge when I'm done; very little escapes. I've got a few larger hop bags that I must have bought from the HBS, but I just use the one-gallon paint strainer bags from Home Depot and don't have issues with things clogging up anymore.

I second the paint strainer bags. Works like a charm for me.
 
I'm rolling with the plate and the paint strainer bag with no issues. Where I have issues that slow down the flow is with matter getting clogged with my QD. Thought about drilling out the X, but it's so minor an issue and I am so lazy...

I also bake the plate to clean.
 
Try baking the chiller at 350*f for 2-3 hours. That should turn anything inside the chiller to ash and make it easier to clear.

I don't think that would help...just my opinion mind.... but it may just caramelize the sludge.
Either try soaking for many days in an alkaline cleaner like sanibrew or PBW or if you must heat it - you will have to bring the temp up to around 700F to ash the residue (but I don't know what the melting temp of the solder used in this device is !!! - so it may fall apart)
 
I've also used the self cleaning feature on my oven which I believe puts it in the 700F range.

Just a side note, If you think all of your post boil apparatus is beyond reproach when it comes to sanitation, I invite you to inspect the impeller on your March pump. I'll bet you'll be shocked that you never infected a batch. Hench the 15 min. recirc of boiling wort.
 
I roll with a March pump and a CFC, so I get concerned about clogging when using pellet hops though I prefer leaf hops and a DIY hop filter around my dip tube.

If I use pellet hops, I try to keep them to around an ounce and use a suspended paint-strainer hopbag. Keeps a lot of the hop sludge at bay. Also, don't try running your kettle dry - expect some loss to the kettle sludge and adjust your volumes accordingly.
 
I don't think that would help...just my opinion mind.... but it may just caramelize the sludge.
Either try soaking for many days in an alkaline cleaner like sanibrew or PBW or if you must heat it - you will have to bring the temp up to around 700F to ash the residue (but I don't know what the melting temp of the solder used in this device is !!! - so it may fall apart)

Just curious, do you have a PC?

Soaking just keeps the bits hydrated, poofy, and locked into place.

Tell ya what. Bake a pizza for 3 hours at 350 and see how much ash you have then. ;)

At the least, the baking dry out the sludge loosening it's grip thus allowing it to flow freely. More often than not, there is so liitle debris actually plugging the chiller that it cooks to a dust and falls out when shaken (helps to cool the chiller first).
 
I dont really expect AHB to let me return it.
I appreciate all the advice, there should be a sticky about this stuff. I had no idea that a plate chiller couldn't normaly handle a couple oz of hop matter.
I used a hop bag purchased at the lhbs for my only attampt at using one and it failed to contain the hops. Whats this I hear about recirculating the boil? Do you fill a pitcher (or five) directly from the ball valve and then pour it back into the kettle through your hop bag?
 
The Oven Cleaning cycle obliterated the label off the top of the plate chiller.
I keep forgetting to mark the Wort / Water In / Out.

I have to use google images to figure it out.
 
I dont really expect AHB to let me return it.
I appreciate all the advice, there should be a sticky about this stuff. I had no idea that a plate chiller couldn't normaly handle a couple oz of hop matter.
I used a hop bag purchased at the lhbs for my only attampt at using one and it failed to contain the hops. Whats this I hear about recirculating the boil? Do you fill a pitcher (or five) directly from the ball valve and then pour it back into the kettle through your hop bag?

No but, I suppose you could and not worry about HSA if you drink fast.

I pump through my CP and just set the return hose into the boil at flameout and let the wort recirc for about 10-15min, into the paint strainer hop bag, to trap hot break and sanitize the system. Then I kick the water on.

I have an inline thermo and once I see the wort is at my desired pitch temp I start filling my fermenter. The fastest I ever chilled, using this same method, was in winter. 10 Gallons to 58*F in 12 minutes (from start of chill water on).

With my T-nator, it's more like 7 minutes.
 
What if I made a picher with a hose attached to the bottom? Im going to lows to see about getting a paint strainer bag. Might stop by the grocery store to get a stainless steel scrubby thing to shove in my bulkhead as a filter. What are your recomendations ?
 
I use a pump and a Therminator, and I have not had any troubles. I use hop sacks for pellet hops which really only leaves the cold break behind in the kettle.

I start the pump with 20 minutes left in the boil to sanitize the the pump and chiller, pumping the boiling wort back into the kettle. At flame out I turn on the water and keep pumping the wort back into the kettle until the temp reaches 140, and then I do straight into the fermenter. I have not had any problems with the chiller clogging in the least. This time of year I can slow down the flow to get a temp between 62 and 58 going into the fermenter.

Ed
 
Austin Homebrew said they will accept a return... At this point im trying to fix the system Ive got. I dont think I will return the Chiller, but AHB gets an 'A' on that one for offering to take it back.



So would buying a march pump and a paint strainer bag fix my problems? Do I need to Bake my chiller after each use or can I do it every few times?
 
I use a pump and a Therminator, and I have not had any troubles. I use hop sacks for pellet hops which really only leaves the cold break behind in the kettle.

I start the pump with 20 minutes left in the boil to sanitize the the pump and chiller, pumping the boiling wort back into the kettle. At flame out I turn on the water and keep pumping the wort back into the kettle until the temp reaches 140, and then I do straight into the fermenter. I have not had any problems with the chiller clogging in the least. This time of year I can slow down the flow to get a temp between 62 and 58 going into the fermenter.

Ed

You are able to pump and circulate boiling wort? I've never been able to do that. The wort always cavitates and causes the pump to lose prime if it's boiling.
 
It seems like it would reprime itself if the pump was under the spout of the kettle, but I dont know anything.
 
You are able to pump and circulate boiling wort? I've never been able to do that. The wort always cavitates and causes the pump to lose prime if it's boiling.

Yeah, I pump and circulating boiling wort every brew day, last 10 minutes to sterilize the interior of the tubing and the head of the pump.
 
I also recirc. the boiling wort from the kettle starting at about 15-20 until flame out. It goes from a clear silacone tube from the boil kettle up into the in side of the pump, thru the out side and into my Shirron plate chiller, then back into the boil kettle. I can see it cavitating due to the boiling wort. It still pumps though. I have my pump head so the in side is facing towards the ground. All of my tubing keeps its shape as well. I use pellet hops only and have a home made "hop taco" , although I also put the pellets into those foot thingies you can get from shoe stores.
 
What kind of tubing do you have. Does it keep it's shape.

I'm using the 5/8" ID braided hose. Keeps it's shape just fine. Boiling wort on my system has lots of steam bubbles in it and they get sucked right into the pump when the burner is on. It's not a problem really as I do the recirc through the chiller near the beginning of the boil and just shut the burner off for the 10 minutes or so needed. Then I resume the boil and finish out normally. I don't want to interrupt the boil near the end as it would throw off my hopping schedule. Up front, it's out of the way for the duration.
 
Boiling wort on my system has lots of steam bubbles in it and they get sucked right into the pump when the burner is on.

Have you tried filling the vessel through the bulkhead and from the top, purging air from the dip tube?

I have a ball-valve on the kettle and another ball-valve on the output side of the pump. When I'm ready to recirculate during the boil, I open the kettle valve to allow the the pump head to fill and open the valve on the output side slowly to purge any air out before activating the pump. Works for me every time.
 
You don't want pellet hops to gum up your plate chiller, but they will also clog a boil screen. I have several of these to remedy that problem:
7617infusers.jpg


They're 4" in diameter so there's plenty of room for the pellets to expand and contact the wort and they contain the hop sludge pretty well. I haven't had any issues using them. I got mine from here: Tea Infusers, Strainers & Accessories; they're listed as "Jumbo Mesh Stainless Tea Infuser Ball", $10.99 each.
 
I'm using the 5/8" ID braided hose. Keeps it's shape just fine. Boiling wort on my system has lots of steam bubbles in it and they get sucked right into the pump when the burner is on. It's not a problem really as I do the recirc through the chiller near the beginning of the boil and just shut the burner off for the 10 minutes or so needed. Then I resume the boil and finish out normally. I don't want to interrupt the boil near the end as it would throw off my hopping schedule. Up front, it's out of the way for the duration.

I kill the heat and recirc for about 3 minutes to avoid the boil bubbles before I start chilling.
 
Have you tried filling the vessel through the bulkhead and from the top, purging air from the dip tube?

I have a ball-valve on the kettle and another ball-valve on the output side of the pump. When I'm ready to recirculate during the boil, I open the kettle valve to allow the the pump head to fill and open the valve on the output side slowly to purge any air out before activating the pump. Works for me every time.

Air lock in the dip tube is not a problem. I have no trouble at all priming the pump and I have an air bleeder valve installed. The issue is only with boiling wort. The key word being "boiling" as in making steam bubbles. The bubbles are steam and affect the pump the same as an air bubble or pocket. These pumps are fussy about air, steam or vapor pockets. Apparently, not everyone encounters this problem. I simply work around it, so really not a problem. Pumping liquids that are actively boiling is a good trick, it's just that I haven't been able to do it.
 
Back
Top