cweston
Well-Known Member
Is there any special equipment or knowledge involved in drilling a SS keg?
Drilling Keggle?
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Cheesefood
Well-Known Member
cweston said:
I recently drilled my SS kettle and did a lot of reading up on what's needed. You can either use a step bit or a bi-metal hole saw (which is what I used). the hole size you're looking for is 7/8".
You need to first mark out the spot you want to drill. Find a center line vertically, then make a horizontal hatch mark about 1.5" from the bottom. Then drill a pilot hole using a small bit, like a 1/8" or smaller. You'll need plenty of pressure, but don't go full speed on the drill.
After that, coat the area with cutting oil or some 3-in-1 (what I used). Drill slowly. Heat causes SS to harden, so you'll want to keep oil on the area. If you see a plume of white smoke, add more oil.
When you're done, debur with a dremel or a file.
ake it slow, use a powerfull drill and lubricate.
If you get the steel to hot it will harden.
If you get the steel to hot it will harden.
Ok, so you didn't specify whether you're using a weldless bulkhead or if you're going to have a coupling welded in. This is important in determining which size holesaw to use.
For mine, I measured the OD of a 1/2" coupling and it was 1" exactly so I went out to buy a 1" bimetal hole saw. Drilled slowly, high pressure, cooling oil as Cheese mentioned. I ended up with a 1-1/16" hole that I still needed to debur. Needless to say a sloppy fit. Tried my second hole (for the thermo) and used a 7/8" bit which after a nice deburring hit the 1" perfectly.
Now, if you're going weldless, I suspect the 7/8" with debur might go a little too large. I'd try it on some scrap sheet metal first. You might want to go down to 3/4 and then file it larger.
For mine, I measured the OD of a 1/2" coupling and it was 1" exactly so I went out to buy a 1" bimetal hole saw. Drilled slowly, high pressure, cooling oil as Cheese mentioned. I ended up with a 1-1/16" hole that I still needed to debur. Needless to say a sloppy fit. Tried my second hole (for the thermo) and used a 7/8" bit which after a nice deburring hit the 1" perfectly.
Now, if you're going weldless, I suspect the 7/8" with debur might go a little too large. I'd try it on some scrap sheet metal first. You might want to go down to 3/4 and then file it larger.
OP
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cweston
Well-Known Member
Bobby_M said:
Thanks for all the good info, folks.
I haven't decided exactly what I want to do--my keggle currently has a 3/8" valve in a weldless assembly. It works fine but is pretty slow. I have a dremel for de-burring so drilling a size smaller might be feasible.
I wonder what a machine shop would charge for drilling + welding. It might be worth it, since bi-metal hole saws are not cheap (and that's not a tool I'd expect to get a lot of general use out of.)
Cheesefood
Well-Known Member
cweston said:
Hole saws will cost you under $20 (if you don't have the pilot arbor) or about $7 if you have it. A step drill is close to $40.
I contacted a few places and they wanted about $50-$100 for the welds.
cweston said:
I've had two done and The first cost me three homebrews and the second a hb bottle of wine.
I picked up a bi-metal multi size kit from Mcmaster.com a while back. It's nice to have the variety and I use them all the time. If you're going to have couplings welded, I'm sure the drilling would be a small incremental charge. I was charged $50 for two couplings welded in. I overpaid but he agreed to do it on the spot while I waited so I caved. I was tired of driving around with the keg.
People will always suggest to offer up some homebrew but maybe it's a regional thing. No one barters for beer around here. They just kept looking at me funny like, "if I wanted a six pack, the liquor store is down the street" (read: BMC drinker).
People will always suggest to offer up some homebrew but maybe it's a regional thing. No one barters for beer around here. They just kept looking at me funny like, "if I wanted a six pack, the liquor store is down the street" (read: BMC drinker).
Cheesefood
Well-Known Member
Bobby_M said:
My hole saw was real cheap: Home Depot forgot to charge me and I forgot it was in my basket till I left (I also bought a $120 work bench and my 10 gal cooler that day. Getting both items was a double-fiasco.)
Ear plugs.
megavites
Well-Known Member
I just did my conversion last wknd and used a 3/4" bimetal hole saw from Home Depot for my Zymico weldless fitting.
Touch up the hole with a stone grinder to smooth everything out.
Just be sure to measure twice and drill once, and not go too low so that if your using the weldless kit, the brass
nut will clear the bottom ring on the keg. Then you'll need the ol persuader to flatten it out. (Yea, I rushed it on a weeknight, but hey, no leaks!)
Touch up the hole with a stone grinder to smooth everything out.
Just be sure to measure twice and drill once, and not go too low so that if your using the weldless kit, the brass
nut will clear the bottom ring on the keg. Then you'll need the ol persuader to flatten it out. (Yea, I rushed it on a weeknight, but hey, no leaks!)
Cheesefood
Well-Known Member
casebrew said:
I have a similar tool I call a Donkey Punch.
Craig5_12
Well-Known Member
I recently re-made my 3-tier setup and went with home-made weldless fittings. It took a little experimenting to find our what would work but in the end I came up with a cheap ($6 or so) fitting that won't leak....at least not yet anyway.
