New Panel Build

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Bigscience

Bigscience

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Not to sound like a cliché but “about time to document this build”. Also, I wasn’t sure if this should go into DYI, eBrew or Automation so feel free to move if I guessed wrong.

For a little background, my system is a 2 tiered HERMs system with a 5 gallon electric heat exchanger. I’ve been using my old panel for about 15 years now and it’s slowly changed over time but I’d like to incorporate a few new things. I enjoy the speed and roar of propane so I’m not going all electric for now but maybe on down the road. I’d like to keep my system running off of a 20A 120V circuit so I can go over to someone else’s place to brew. I also may end up moving not too far down the road so I don’t want to do too much electrical panel stuff now.

Some goals of the new panel:
-Electric HLT and HERM (switchable) for precise control
-Alarms for gas fired tanks to warn of approaching boil/strike temp
-Ability to preheat water before I start. (don’t care if it takes 4 hours)

Since I scored 5 Watlow 93 PIDs, I’m not concerned about using more than a typical system would.

Here is what the layout I chose will look like.


Panel Layout.jpg

I also took a stab at designing a wiring schematic but the more I look at it, I keep finding little things to tweak.

Panel Schematic.jpg

I’m open to any suggestions or advice and will try to update as I make progress on the build. With 2 kids at home, it make take awhile to build however.
 
sub'd to see how this turns out. looking at doing something similar in the near future with my system.
 
I've made some progress. I got the layout finalized and some of the holes cut. I even test fit some things to see how it will really look. I hope to have it painted this weekend but that may be a bit much.

image-202645195.jpg



image-1541450361.jpg



image-1250718776.jpg
 
Bigscience said:
Not to sound like a cliché but “about time to document this build”. Also, I wasn’t sure if this should go into DYI, eBrew or Automation so feel free to move if I guessed wrong.

For a little background, my system is a 2 tiered HERMs system with a 5 gallon electric heat exchanger. I’ve been using my old panel for about 15 years now and it’s slowly changed over time but I’d like to incorporate a few new things. I enjoy the speed and roar of propane so I’m not going all electric for now but maybe on down the road. I’d like to keep my system running off of a 20A 120V circuit so I can go over to someone else’s place to brew. I also may end up moving not too far down the road so I don’t want to do too much electrical panel stuff now.

Some goals of the new panel:
-Electric HLT and HERM (switchable) for precise control
-Alarms for gas fired tanks to warn of approaching boil/strike temp
-Ability to preheat water before I start. (don’t care if it takes 4 hours)

Since I scored 5 Watlow 93 PIDs, I’m not concerned about using more than a typical system would.

Here is what the layout I chose will look like.


View attachment 161405

I also took a stab at designing a wiring schematic but the more I look at it, I keep finding little things to tweak.

View attachment 161406

I’m open to any suggestions or advice and will try to update as I make progress on the build. With 2 kids at home, it make take awhile to build however.
Click to expand...

Nice schematics, I have been looking for a software to help laying my down on paper. What did you use ?
Thanks !
 
PJ does a lot of schematics but I'm not sure what software he uses. What about Lucid Chart? Omnigraffle? You could also run a windows emulator so you could use Visio if you really needed to.

I really like Visio because I can do brew system design at work and if anyone comes by, it looks like I'm doing real work not slacking off.
 
I finally got a chance to paint the box. I primed the whole thing, painted the inside gloss black and did hammered black for the outside. I'm not sure how I like the hammered paint. It looks more like a really dark brown vs black when compared to something black. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1393105737.354376.jpg

Dry fit the parts so the labels are a little crooked and the last to PIDs are still on my old panel.
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1393105780.307503.jpg


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Been making some headway on wiring and was also able to mount the arm on my stand. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1394988875.701019.jpg

Everything is powered, I need to hook up the SSRs and the RTDs. Soldering the panel mounts will be a little more work but since I've already bought everything, I can't justify buying pre made from auber.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I used the same guy that Kal used and couldn't be happier. They were $1.75 each and $3.00 shipping.

I can't find the address now but it's listed on the electric brewery site. George was very nice and kept up the helpful, polite, Canadian stereotype. I'd use him again in a heartbeat.


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Getting closer on the wiring. Still need to hook up the SSRs and the RTDs and then I should be ready for a test batch. I wish I'd have gotten the premade Auber RTD leads but I'd already bought all the parts so I can't justify going out and spending more money to save time now.


ImageUploadedByHome Brew1395209305.118832.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1395209321.244654.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1395209347.030337.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Bigscience said:
I used the same guy that Kal used and couldn't be happier. They were $1.75 each and $3.00 shipping.

I can't find the address now but it's listed on the electric brewery site. George was very nice and kept up the helpful, polite, Canadian stereotype. I'd use him again in a heartbeat.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...


Ok thanks. I was looking into them but wanted to check out any other options as well.
 
I checked locally at a trophy shop and for the same ones they were $4 each. I did think really long and hard about getting stainless but that would have been even more.

Another thought is making aluminum or even stainless ones yourself and etching them. (see kettle markings thread)


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Soldered up the panel mounts for the RTDs tonight. I really wish is have just bought them turn key from Auber. My eyes are too bad for this stuff. All that's left now is one wire too the SSR (I was about 8" short on wire) and to make the panel to probe wires. I'm not sure I'll have everything ready for Big Brew but I'll sure try.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1395381589.025229.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Some bad news. I got everything hooked up and was trying to get all the settings on the PIDs dialed in and I couldn't get the audible alarm to sound. After hours with a meter and the manual, I figured out that the models I have don't have a second output installed. Since I got them for free on the way to recycling, I'm not out any money. I guess I've got 2 choices, live with no audible alarm (the displays still flash) or pony up and buy 3 new PIDs (more like 5 so they all match) so I can have the alarms I wired for.

It's a shame because other than that, these are pretty nice units. SLY2352 from Auber would get the job done? Maybe get a 2352P for the HEX to program a mash too.

I'm a little bummed this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Bigscience said:
Some bad news. I got everything hooked up and was trying to get all the settings on the PIDs dialed in and I couldn't get the audible alarm to sound. After hours with a meter and the manual, I figured out that the models I have don't have a second output installed. Since I got them for free on the way to recycling, I'm not out any money. I guess I've got 2 choices, live with no audible alarm (the displays still flash) or pony up and buy 3 new PIDs (more like 5 so they all match) so I can have the alarms I wired for.

It's a shame because other than that, these are pretty nice units. SLY2352 from Auber would get the job done? Maybe get a 2352P for the HEX to program a mash too.

I'm a little bummed this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

Can't you just wire the buzzer in parallel with whatever is on the first output? Then install the switch inline on the buzzer.
 
I suppose I could run something like that but then it would just tell me when my SSR is firing or not. That's not really the same as the high and low alarm capabilities. The reason I really care at all is because my system is a gas/electric hybrid. I'd like to use the gas burner to heat up the HLT and have the alarm tell me when it's close. Then I could use the electric to maintain temp. I ended up ordering 1 Auber PID for now to see how I like it. If it works well then I'll replace the others and put the Watlow 93's up on eBay or even here. I think to get the ramp soak in an Auber its the $80 model.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Bigscience said:
I suppose I could run something like that but then it would just tell me when my SSR is firing or not. That's not really the same as the high and low alarm capabilities. The reason I really care at all is because my system is a gas/electric hybrid. I'd like to use the gas burner to heat up the HLT and have the alarm tell me when it's close. Then I could use the electric to maintain temp. I ended up ordering 1 Auber PID for now to see how I like it. If it works well then I'll replace the others and put the Watlow 93's up on eBay or even here. I think to get the ramp soak in an Auber its the $80 model.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

Oh, I misunderstood. I am sure the 93's will sell quick on here!
 

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