Let's talk about routers (woodworking)...

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the_bird

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My Christmas present to me is going to be a router. Should be one of the last "big tools" to get me through my currently-foreseen round of projects. I'll be using it mostly for putting edges on bookcases, stuff like that. Things like cleaning up the edges when I lay down some laminate. Putting in some dados on the interior of the bookshelves.

What do you think of this?

4127A2Z7F8L._AA280_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690LR-Fixed-Horsepower-Router/dp/B00005QEVQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1199555574&sr=1-1

$100, with shipping.

From the Manufacturer
Very seldom can you improve on "perfection" but when you look at the changes on the legendary 690 router you will agree that is exactly what Porter-Cable has done. Since quality couldn't be improved, we attacked horsepower by increasing it to 1-3/4 and incorporated a new one-handed lever-release height adjustment. No more fumbling with the T-bolt, now just adjust your height "snap" it and rout. This new mechanism is extremely beneficial in router table applications where space is limited. To top it off we have added a dust proof switch and larger, more ergonomic handles for better control. Of course, you will find the same stand-by features that made the 690 famous; Precision machined aluminum motor housing and base, 1/64-inch micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment, 100-percent sealed ball bearing construction and 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch auto-release collets to ensure bit changes are as smooth as the router itself. Combine that with the Porter-Cable 1 year parts and labor warranty and you have a complete package that will be around for a very long time.

FEATURES
  • 11 Amps, AC only, 27,500 RPM, 1/4" & 1/2" collets
  • Auto-release collet system ends "frozen" bits
  • Precision machined aluminum motor housing & base
  • Accurate micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment to 1/128"
  • 100% sealed ball bearings
  • Dust-sealed switch
  • Lever release height adjustment
  • Under table stop prevents motor from inadvertently rotating out of base
  • Standard Equipment: Router motor #6902, base #1001, 1/4" collet #42999, 1/2" collet #42950, collet wrenches #42596, and operating manual
SPECIFICATIONS
  • Power: 120 VAC, 25-60 HZ
  • Shipping Weight: 9 1/2 Lbs.
  • Peak HP: 1 3/4
  • Motor Amps: 11
  • Motor Diameter: 3 1/2"
  • Speed RPM: 27,000 RPM
  • Collets: Standard: 1/4" & 1/2" Available: 3/8"
  • Height: 8"
  • Base: Round
  • Net Weight: 8 Lbs
WARRANTY
1 year parts and labor warranty.

Product Description
Sealed 100% ball bearing construction. Precision machined aluminum motor housing and base. Micrometer depth-of-cut adjustment. Lever release height adjustment. Dust proof switch. Auto release collet system ends "frozen bits". STANDARD EQUIPMENT: Router motor, base, 1/4" collet, 1/2" collet, collet wrenches and operating manual. SPECIFICATIONS: 10 amp motor, 1-3/4 peak HP, AC only.

Now, I've debated between a fixed-base and a plunge router, but can't foresee too many circumstances when I would really NEED a plunge router. Should I be going in that route anyway, though?

Thoughts? Comments?
 
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I like Porter Cable, and that model looks like a good all-around one. I think you'll be fine with the fixed base. The plunge models can get a little bulky.
 
Its a good little router for edging & the like. I don't have that particular version, mines a little older, but then what the heck, I've got 5 others to chose from.

Porter Cable makes very good routers, I wouldn't be afraid to pull the trigger. Any bigger & it's too bulky, any smaller & it limits what 'cha can do with it.
 
I have the same router and love it! Over the holidays I built a 6' X 3' X 1' bookcase for the bottom of my basement stairs. It took me a total of 8 hours of working time to buils. rock solid and only cost me about $60 in materials!

Make sure that you get the plunge attachment.
 
Seem like a good price to you? I don't believe the "original" price of $300, but even the cheap Ryobis were pretty close to a hunnert bucks at The Depot.
 
Pretty much what Yuri said. Porter Cable is a good solid brand, one of the best IMHO.

Spend the extra few bucks for good router bits. You'll usually be working on a finished surface. The last thing you want to do is damage your work.

Nice Toy!:rockin:
 
I find that my cheap little router table is a great addition. It's not much money which is good because I don't use it that often, but if you're mass producing mouldings or the like it's invaluable.

As far as Porter Cable, I don't think you can go wrong there. My last Craftsman self destructed with very little use. I hate Craftsman power tools.
 
Looks like a good one--and I don't think you'll need a plunge router unless you are a hard core woodworker.

All I have is a trim router and it does everything I need it to do.

Whatcha gonna make?
 
First project will be a pair of bookcases that I've got designed to look like they'll be built-ins, but that can come along with me to the next house. Then, I've got to build shelving in virtually every closet in the house. Gotta maximize every nook and crany I can; for a small house, it's not put together all that efficienctly.
 
I have that router with the changeable plunge or fixed bases. Great little workhorse. You might like the plunge base if you are doing any stop dadoes or any thing like that. That is a great price BTW.
 
Hmmm... could buy the kit with the plunge router base for another $75. Think that's worth it? I'm thinking probably not; if I *do* need a plunge router in the future, I could either buy the base separately for $90, or likely find a second, plunge router for another $100.

Think it's worth an extra $75 up-front to have both bases?
 
I also have the same router that came as a kit with the plunge base. That is an outstanding deal.
I like the router but the Collete is a slight PITA. It takes two wrenches to remove bits. I don't know if Porter Cable ever modified there Collete system since I bought mine.

You will find that the 1/2" bits are much better than the 3/8". They vibrate much less and create a smoother cut.
 
the_bird said:
First project will be a pair of bookcases that I've got designed to look like they'll be built-ins, but that can come along with me to the next house. Then, I've got to build shelving in virtually every closet in the house. Gotta maximize every nook and crany I can; for a small house, it's not put together all that efficienctly.

I'd like to see that.

I'm in the middle of a project right now--we bought an electric fireplace for the living room (mainly for show), and I am currently building inset shelves to go above it. I've never done anythign like this so I'm looking for ideas.

RE the plunge router add-on--do you see yourself doing projects that would require that?
 
I have the 2 in one kit with the plunge base. I've rarely used it, but it can be great depending on the other tools you have. For instance, a plunge router is about the only way to drill a hole EXACTLY perpendicular to the surface, if you don't have a drill press. It's great for installing those Euro hinges, and making face frames and the like where you might want fluting that doesn't go all the way up.

On the other hand, before I had a plunge router, I would slowly lower the work piece down onto the bit on my router table. But this is neither the safest way, or the most accurate way.

Either way, I won't own any router other than a Porter Cable. Oh, check out MLCS for bits. They aren't the absolute best, but they're pretty darn good, and they have a lifetime warranty. Never had any problems with getting them to replace a bit.
 
I guess I'm the exception, about 90% of the time I do router work, I use the plunge.
 
I'm leaning towards the combo kit. Hell, it's my Christmas present! Plus, my old man told me how he regretted buying a fixed-base router instead of a plunge, so he'll give me crap if I don't get the plunge kit.
 
the_bird said:
Hmmm... could buy the kit with the plunge router base for another $75. Think that's worth it? I'm thinking probably not; if I *do* need a plunge router in the future, I could either buy the base separately for $90, or likely find a second, plunge router for another $100.

Think it's worth an extra $75 up-front to have both bases?

Read any post about "how many cornies should I buy" NO ONE answers get one.

In a related note, my kids are old enough to not need the playroom(garage) anymore so I'm redoing my woodshop and adding a bar:rockin:
 
Short Drive said:
Yeah, me to. I put the fixed base in a router table.
I've got the 3 horse version in my router table, I use the heck out of it and I'm to cheap to buy shaper, so I like the extra power in the router table.
 
Personally, I'd go with Linksys. I have a netgear wireless router right now and I hate it.

Wait, what? ohhhhhh woodworking routers! Porter-Cable is a good brand, I'd definitely go with it. If you really don't see yourself needing a plunge router, I'd do what the guys above said and get the fixed, AND get a routing table. I used the heck out of my table when I had it.
 
You mentioned routing the insides of book cases. You need a plunge router if you do any blind grooves (they don't extend to the edge of the material).
 
Looks like a 680 model, however I might have missed the model #. I have a PC 680 and the big HP version mounted in my router table. IMHO, unless you are doing detailed molding, and grooving, you would not neeed a plunger router, nice to have but not necessary. Just look at my shop and you will see lots of crap that I should not have bought but I had the money at the time, now I doont have the money and I am looking at it thinking..."what the hell was I thinking".

Oh well, I can still make some damn nice looking cabinets.

Regards,
Josh
 
FWIW, I have had one of the PC combo fixed/plunge kits for years. It's been solid dependable piece of hardware at a decent price (grabbed it on sale too).
 

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