Black IPA critique?

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cwilliamsccn

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Location
bay area
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.50 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.50 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 4.75 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 31.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 70.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 88.6 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
12 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 88.9 %
1 lbs Blackprinz (500.0 SRM) Grain 2 7.4 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 75L (75.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.7 %
1.50 oz Chinook [11.10 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 45.7 IBUs
0.50 oz Chinook [11.10 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 5 9.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Chinook [11.10 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 15.1 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 7 -
1.00 oz Chinook [11.10 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007) [35 Yeast 9 -
 
Not a huge fan of Amarillo gold in a black IPA with those other hops thats just my opinion. Also with the added 1 pound of table sugar (not recommended)I would add some biscuit malt to even the flavor. Just my 2 cents. Black IPA's are one of my favorites. Good luck.
 
cwilliamsccn said:
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.50 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.50 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 4.75 gal
Estimated OG: 1.069 SG
Estimated Color: 31.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 61.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 84.5 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
12 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 82.8 %
1 lbs Blackprinz (500.0 SRM) Grain 2 6.9 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.4 %
1 lbs Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 4 6.9 %
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 34.6 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 6 8.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 7 13.2 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 8 -
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 9 4.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Day Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs

1.0 pkg Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007) [35 Yeast 10 -

Not sure about the amarillos. Something in the same aa range but may blend well with the other hops is zythos. I've been very pleased with them... Just my thoughts. Interested to see what others say about the table sugar, I tend the stay away from it.
 
I like the biscuit idea and I will omit the amarillo and sugar. this is my first BIPA. Thanks for the input
 
PseudoChef said:
Care to elaborate? It definitely serves it purpose in a variety of recipes, IPAs included.

I've never used sugar in a beer before. When's a good time that I may use it? What are some of the pros and cons of it and what can it change? Definitely not opposed to it but it sounds like people posting here have experience with it and I've just always read no, it'll make the beer more dry and it will thin it out. So any stories of how it's used are welcome... Sorry to ask a question on your thread but I figure we would both benefit from this answer
 
The recipe as it stands today sounds perfect...simple and effective. I just bottled my first black IPA (CDA) recipe and it tasted great going into the bottles. Even with just black malt and C-80 malt it tastes like a porter up front and then IPA bitterness and hop flavor overwhelms it...I love it!
 
I've never used sugar in a beer before. When's a good time that I may use it? What are some of the pros and cons of it and what can it change? Definitely not opposed to it but it sounds like people posting here have experience with it and I've just always read no, it'll make the beer more dry and it will thin it out. So any stories of how it's used are welcome... Sorry to ask a question on your thread but I figure we would both benefit from this answer

Sometimes you want a dry beer. It can be beneficial with higher gravity worts such as a Barleywine or IIPA to ensure you have the proper terminal gravity. Same with some Belgian styles like a Golden Strong, Trippel, or even a Blonde. You want some of these styles to be malty but to not be sweet.

You can use it anytime in the boil, or even into fermentation. I like the latter approach as your yeast will work on the more difficult to metabolise maltose and maltotriose first, then the simple sugar next to ensure that complete attenuation you're looking to achieve.
 
West coast IPA and DIPA's the sugar helps to dry the beer out. I have done this several times with great success. But I like this style. Many Belgian beers also use sugar in a variety of forms. Helps bump the gravity up and also helps to ensure a complete fermentation in higher gravity beers.
 
PseudoChef said:
Sometimes you want a dry beer. It can be beneficial with higher gravity worts such as a Barleywine or IIPA to ensure you have the proper terminal gravity. Same with some Belgian styles like a Golden Strong, Trippel, or even a Blonde. You want some of these styles to be malty but to not be sweet.

You can use it anytime in the boil, or even into fermentation. I like the latter approach as your yeast will work on the more difficult to metabolise maltose and maltotriose first, then the simple sugar next to ensure that complete attenuation you're looking to achieve.

Is there a flavor change? Or just dries out the mouth feel and allows for the extra fermentability of a high gravity wort?
 
Maybe somewhat of a perceived flavor change with the dryness/changed mouthfeel of the beer.

It's very important to note that you don't just add sugar to a recipe to "increase fermentability." You need to sub a portion of sugar for the equal pppg of grain to get the desired effect.
 
PseudoChef said:
Maybe somewhat of a perceived flavor change with the dryness/changed mouthfeel of the beer.

It's very important to note that you don't just add sugar to a recipe to "increase fermentability." You need to sub a portion of sugar for the equal pppg of grain to get the desired effect.

Gotcha, so possibly sub a lb of sugar for a lb of a base malt in recipe.... On a 5gal batch? Or is that too much? Too little? Sorry to pick your brain just interested in the topic
 
Yes, but how do you feel about adding sugar to a BIPA? :D

I would not recommend it. Look at the ingredients this is not a heavy IPA. I was trying not to be rude. It would distract IMO of a otherwise ok recipe.
 
Gotcha, so possibly sub a lb of sugar for a lb of a base malt in recipe.... On a 5gal batch? Or is that too much? Too little? Sorry to pick your brain just interested in the topic

Your standard 2-row has a potential of approximately 1.036 (or 36 pts per pound per gallon) while sucrose (Table sugar) has approximately 1.046.

So, 36/46 = 0.78 - so you'd sub .78 lbs of sugar for every lb of 2-row for the equivalent gravity.
 
Brewed today did FWH instead of just 60 min. Black as night and smells good 1.062 OG little lower than what I was hoping for but not by much, mashed at 150
 
PseudoChef said:
Your standard 2-row has a potential of approximately 1.036 (or 36 pts per pound per gallon) while sucrose (Table sugar) has approximately 1.046.

So, 36/46 = 0.78 - so you'd sub .78 lbs of sugar for every lb of 2-row for the equivalent gravity.

Truly a helpful resource. Much appreciated for the lesson. I'm still in the learning process and have recently been building my own recipes. Have a few reads I need to do and will hopefully learn those tidbits. As of now, building based off taste not the actual science...so it's a lot of trial and error. Anyhow, thanks Pseudochef
 
Im stuck at 1.020, I brought the temp up to 70 and it's been there for 5 days now. Tried lightly stiring to get things moving with no luck. boiled 4oz sugar and dumped it in, small krausen formed with airlock activity for a day and still reading 1.020.. this is the third beer now that has gotten stuck around here.. what am I doing wrong?
 
The only thing that can keep a beer from fermenting out is poor yeast health, poor temp control, or non-fermentable sugars present. If you had good healthy krausen (foam) for the first few days it is doubtful that yeast health is the problem. If your temp was kept stable in the ideal range for that strain of yeast then it really points to non-fermentables in the beer. this can be due to the mash temp/ph as well as the type of malted grains or adjuncts used.

The ONE time I had a beer not finish where it should was on one of my first extract stouts where I racked to secondary before the beer was done fermenting and it caused my yeast to peter out and I finished around 1.020 on a beer that should have hit 1.015. Beer took forever to carbonate but eventually came out good so sometimes it's not an issue.
 
The only thing that can keep a beer from fermenting out is poor yeast health, poor temp control, or non-fermentable sugars present. If you had good healthy krausen (foam) for the first few days it is doubtful that yeast health is the problem. If your temp was kept stable in the ideal range for that strain of yeast then it really points to non-fermentables in the beer. this can be due to the mash temp/ph as well as the type of malted grains or adjuncts used.

The ONE time I had a beer not finish where it should was on one of my first extract stouts where I racked to secondary before the beer was done fermenting and it caused my yeast to peter out and I finished around 1.020 on a beer that should have hit 1.015. Beer took forever to carbonate but eventually came out good so sometimes it's not an issue.

It was fermenting steady at 63 then dropped to 59 and stopped, thats when I brought up to 68 but it never restarted. My mash temp was pretty stable. I have never checked my ph i just use filtered tap water. I will look into that next brew. Hopefully it taste ok after a few weeks.
 
The blackprinz malt was a little over roasty so I did a 4 day dry hop with 4oz amarillo before kegging. Tasting pretty good 4 days on gas!

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