Problem with weldless bulkhead

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Drunk Monkey

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I bought a couple ss weldless fittings for keggle conversions. I final got the kegs all drilled, but I am having an issue with being able to get the bolts and coupler tight enough on the keg to prevent it from leaking. It is "bottoming out" because of the taper on the threaded bulkhead. Any advice?

BTW, I bought my fittings from the discount fittings guy (there is a thread in this section somewhere), but they look like the standard parts found on all the online HBS.
 
Sounds like you need an extra washer to shim it. You can get away with galvanized if you put it on the outside. Otherwise, I know Lowes will have stainless ones in the specialtiy drawers at some stores.
 
The problem is finding a washer with the same diameter as the threaded part that goes through the keg so that it pushes against the oring. I haven't been able to find anything that size.
I was curious if anyone else had this problem, as this seems to be the standard hardware for a keggle conversion
 
Try turning the coupling end for end, and the threaded nipple as well. Sometimes the threads are cut deeper or shallower (depending on your point of view) on one end, and you may be able to get it tighter that way. One combination of tapers may be better than the one you have now.

Other options are to take the coupler to a good hardware store and see if they can cut the threads a bit deeper, or find a plumber who can.

Good luck.
 
I am having the same problem with the same hardware from the same place! The nipple will not let the nut go all the way to the ends of the threads on either end.

I am not ready the rig my keggle yet so I am not sure how I am going to fix it, but it seems that what Bobby_M says about the extra washers will do the trick. I just don't see why the hardware is that way. Others must have run into the same problem
 
I've done two kettle conversions - a keggle and stainless steel pot - and both work great.

First, look at the large nut. One side is indented. That needs to sit against the O-ring.

Second, tighten the hell out of it. Use a monkey wrench if you have one.

These really do work great, but you need to play with them to get them right. Don't forget to use some thread wrap.
 
Can you put the two nuts on the same end of the nipple? It would leave lots of nipple sticking out of the keggle. But I never saw anything wrong with too much nipple sticking out.

Or, if you have a vise and a big bolt, you could screw the nut onto the nipple, slip the big bolt through it, put the assembly across the open vise jaws, and hammer on the side of the nut. That ought to expand the nut, letting you screw things up further.

Hardware departments probably have nuts in the electrical parts. Solid zinc won't hurt the brew, until they dissolve, and the cock falls off... They would be better than galvanised- if the zink wears off of them and exposes iron, blech, it'll ruin beer.

The electric department will also have straight sections of fully threaded, non-tapered, pipe. It's used to connect one box to another. No taper, so no nut problems. But agin, galvanised is no good, you'll probaly have to hope for aluminum.
 
They won't fit on the same side of the nipple, but i think i found out what my problem was. As I was cranking down on the parts, the inside o-ring was expanding and slipping above the coupler. I tired holding it down and in place while tightening and it has a much tighter seal then before. Haven't leak tested it yet though.
 
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