Which of these CO2 Regulators is better?

I am new to kegging (well homebrewing too) and I came across these two CO2 regulators in purchasing used supplies. My question is which one is better, which should I use (provided that they both work)?

Thanks

#1


#2

id prefer #1 just cause it has a knob that makes it easier to adjust pressure...

check these out... its what I happily use...
http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/regulators-pid-642.html

The second one for two reasons: The low pressure gauge is more appropriate (0-60psi range, and it looks like there is a shutoff valve.

You would definitely need to replace the gauge on the first one (I'd put a 0-30 psi gauge in personally).

-S

I say #2. The gauge scaleing range is much better.

The first one is alot better. I have gone thru 2 of the bottom ones. The bolt on the second one gets cross threaded.

Thanks for the info - esp about the PSI ranges! (that proves I am a noob... but learning everyday).

The first regulator (#1) was actually used for airbrushing in its previous live. With #2 I would add a knob if I used it.

Still up in the air...

#2 for the gauge. Never had a problem with cross threading. Bit annoying to always having to use a screwdriver but at least it won't get bumped.

#2 because is HARDER to adjust. If you take #1 to a party, people will be messing with it. #2 you can tighten the lock nut so they can't adjust it.

Gage range is also important, most of the time you'll be down around 12-15 psi.

I have two of the #2 that have been trouble free for 6 years.

Yeah. And visiting small children and drunks like to play with things like that.

If you go with #1 you can always buy a new gauge.

But I'd take # 2 and tape a string connected to a flat screwdriver, to it.

No question about it, go with number one! That is a very high quality regulator made by Victor! Gauges are cheap, so I agree with the others that you should replace the low side gauge. I would recommend a 0-30 psi gauge range. It allows for a much finer control of output pressure. I would also replace the outlet fitting with a shutoff valve with a built in check valve.

That Victor regulator is designed to last a lifetime! I have a 35 year old nitrogen regulator made by Victor that my Dad gave me, all it has ever needed was a new diaphragm. I called Victor and they still make a replacement for this 35 year old regulator!

the victor is definitely the higher quality regulator. it may in fact be a two-stage regulator (which is overkill for us, but definitely nice!)

only thing is, the outlet uses a different threading than we normally use (maybe machine fine thread? i can't quite remember), whereas the second picture was meant for beer. the victor was meant for a welding environment where they use those fittings regularly. when i setup my industrial oxygen for aerating, i ran into the same problem, and had to go to airgas in order to get the right fittings.

if they are the same price, i would go with the victor. i believe harris is also a well known welding regulator manufacturer.

if the second one is cheaper, go ahead and go with the second one. even though the victor is nice, you won't really notice the difference for most uses.

Thanks for all your replies. From them I gather:

• knobs twist handles are good - but letting others adjust them is bad
• Gauge range of 0-30/60 is ideal
• Shut off valve is needed

I already have both regulators, so cost is not an issue - and I will be giving the one I don't want to my brew buddy. And it looks like he is going to get #2

I will hang on to #1 because:

• t-valve handle can be removed - helpful friends have nothing to tinker with
• gauge range - I will change this to the recommend range of 0-30/60 psi
• shut-off valve, I will add on
• while several said that they had no issues with their #2's, it was pretty consistent that Victor was perceived as being a quality product

Thanks again for all your supplies!

maukiman

Dennys Fine Consumptibles said:

#2 for the gauge. Never had a problem with cross threading. Bit annoying to always having to use a screwdriver but at least it won't get bumped.

Click to expand...

I keep a can of coke in the fridge just for that purpose. It works pretty good. But you're right, it is annoying. I need to JB weld something on there.

maukiman said:

gauge range - I will change this to the recommend range of 0-30/60 psi

Click to expand...

Both the 0-30 psi and the 0-60 psi gauge will work fine, but the 0-30 will allow for a finer control of the pressures that we as homebrewers and keggers are concerned with.

How are Taprite-Fassco regulators for quality. I have a taprite 440-SN.

to my knowledge, taprite regulators are fairly 'standard'.

the regulators that most of us use (myself included) are the cheaper, single-stage regulator with npt connections. they will generally last quite a while under good conditions, and you may need to replace the diaphragm at some point (it may be cheaper to get a new regulator entirely though)

the regulator pictured in the first picture is a victor regulator, meant for welding applications. harris also makes some regulators along these lines. most likely, it is a dual-stage regulator, which is necessary for welding applications since in welding applications the consistent flow as well as pressure are important. for us, pressure is all we care about, we don't need a certain flow.

generally speaking, the victor/harris regulators will outlast our brewing career. they are generally at least twice as expensive though, and use a different thread. honestly, we don't need dual-stage regulators, but the reliability of a victor is top notch.

this isn't to say a taprite or a perlick or a cornelius regulator is 'bad', they should all work just as well as the victor as far as we are concerned, but the craftsmanship and build quality don't really compare, i think. there is a reason why you can buy a new regulator for 30-something for us, and why the victor welding regulator is closer to 100 (maybe more? i don't quite remember).

I'd go with #2...

I agree...the Victor regulator is a fine piece of equipment. But #2 has these advantages.

1) Easy to find rebuild kits...and easy to rebuild.
2) The 55-65 psi relief valve built in to REG #2. If you had a malfunction in a Regulator...I'd rather it vent at the lower pressure instead of trying to force 100+ PSI into my keg. Check your kegs...some have relief valves in the top. Some don't.
3) The shutoff/check valve...

Of course...if you already own them both...you could customize it anyway you like.

Add a Knob type handle to #2
Add a 0-30 psi gauge to either ( I wouldn't...cause I like to roll up the pressure for force carbonating)
Swap the Pressure relief valve out on the Victor and Add a shutoff/check valve to it.

Personally....If I owned both of those..I'd use #2 for travel, parties, Jockey Box, etc... I'd use #1 with my Kegerator. I'd mount the #1 on a bottle outside the fridge...and run it through the wall with a bulkhead fitting...and over to a bank of secondary regulators. I use a double secondary inside the Kegerator. With two secondary regulators inside..I can pass 35 psi straight-thru for Soft Drinks, Set One regulator at 12-14 psi for most of my beers (has a 3-port manifold attached) and the second regulator can be set for anything else I might want, Low carbonated British Ale, or Higher Carbonated Cider...but I only have one output on it right now. So for CO2...I have 5 hoses...and 3 different pressures available. I also have Beer Mix coming through on a separate bulkhead fitting going directly to a keg of Guinness..