RIMS for Dummies

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kryolla said:
if you dont plan on using 220 then why not just get a 120v element for RIMS tube. I think a 220 heating element is for people that only use electric so they can get the wort up to boiling point.
Click to expand...

Watt density
 
kryolla said:
if you dont plan on using 220 then why not just get a 120v element for RIMS tube. I think a 220 heating element is for people that only use electric so they can get the wort up to boiling point.
Click to expand...

If someone can not get their hands on a suitable 120 volt low density element, a higher wattage high density 220 volt element may be used at 120 volts. The 220 voltage element is much longer and when used at lower voltage the heat is spread over a larger area therefore lowering the watt density of the element. When using a 220 volt or 240 volt element at 120 volts the power is devided by 4. A suitable 120 volt low density element for your RIMS tube can be difficult to find sometimes.
 
kryolla said:
can't you get a 120v 1500 watt ld or uld
Click to expand...

120 volt LD can be found but often out of stock. 120 volt ULD's are damn near impossible to find. There are also some guys who are experimenting with using the RIMS tube as an on-demand hot water source for strike water using a 220 volt HD element at 220 volts and switching the element to 120 volts for maintaining mash temperature and recirculating. Do a member search on Sizz, he is experimenting on such a system using only two vessels.
 
The Pol said:
Depends on what sort of circuit it is on? 15A? 20A?

1500W is about 12.5A
March 809 is about 1.2A

So you can run it on a 15A, but you are getting up there, really up there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply... My house was wired with aluminum wiring (Yuk) I have replaced some of the wire and run a 30A circuit to the garage that I split to a 20 and 15 ( I never max them out at the same time, 15 A for music and light, 20 A for tools.) Note other than the march pump, I won't use the aluminum wire for the heating elements.

Without running a 220V circuit what's the best heater element I can expect to use if I wanted to boil my beer without gas?
 
jtrainer said:
Thanks for the reply... My house was wired with aluminum wiring (Yuk) I have replaced some of the wire and run a 30A circuit to the garage that I split to a 20 and 15 ( I never max them out at the same time, 15 A for music and light, 20 A for tools.) Note other than the march pump, I won't use the aluminum wire for the heating elements.

Without running a 220V circuit what's the best heater element I can expect to use if I wanted to boil my beer without gas?
Click to expand...

If you are going to boil a 5 gallon batch, you would need two elements at 120VAC. Either (2) 1500W elements or (2) 2000W elements, at a minimum.

If you are doing smaller batches, you can get away with less.
 
I am currently trying to kick the gas :) and use two "heatsticks" and some LP to boil my wort. (5G batches so 7G 90m boils)

I've never tried to ONLY use the sticks to get the sparge to boiling, but when I use the two 1500w sticks and some LP I can get to boiling in about 5m (10m during a snow storm)...and can hold it with the 2 1500w's.

The boil was very very slow [but boiling] during that snow storm though and I had to put it back on the gas to get my wort to 5.5G...my BK has no insulation though.

FWIW I plan to do a 2000w heatstick for my next batch and see if the boil is a bit more rolling. Barring another snowstorm I think 3500w (200w and 1500w sticks) should be able to keep it nice and rolling.
 
The Pol said:
If you are going to boil a 5 gallon batch, you would need two elements at 120VAC. Either (2) 1500W elements or (2) 2000W elements, at a minimum.

If you are doing smaller batches, you can get away with less.
Click to expand...

And for 10 Gal batches, can the dual 2K elements handle that too or is that just pushing it?
 
jtrainer said:
And for 10 Gal batches, can the dual 2K elements handle that too or is that just pushing it?
Click to expand...

4000W will do it... but that is as low as I would go. It will take a little but to reach a boil. I used 3700W to maintain a boil in 5 gallon batches that start at 7.5 gallons.

10 gallons from 165F to BOIL is 18 minutes.

So if you start with 13g it will take 24 minutes.
 
Pol, Thanks that was very helpful. I think propane is my fuel for now and the RIMs tube for maintaining my mash temps.
 
A quick look at the specs, the larger one comes with a relay and an out put for an SSR. The relay contacts are rate for 7 amps versus 3 Amps on the smaller. Other than that I don't see a major difference. Never used one of the bigger ones so I cant be 100%. You would have to compare the manuals item for item to know for sure.
 
CodeRage said:
A quick look at the specs, the larger one comes with a relay and an out put for an SSR. The relay contacts are rate for 7 amps versus 3 Amps on the smaller. Other than that I don't see a major difference. Never used one of the bigger ones so I cant be 100%. You would have to compare the manuals item for item to know for sure.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks, now one more question since I am in a Dummies thread. I want to hook a march pump to this so it turns it on/off accordingly when the heat is on. Is that what the output you are talking about is for.

Oops I see you said it was for an SSR, now I am confused, why would you want one without an output for an SSR and can I hook my march pump up to these to turn on and off with the heather?
 
The Pol said:
4000W will do it... but that is as low as I would go. It will take a little but to reach a boil. I used 3700W to maintain a boil in 5 gallon batches that start at 7.5 gallons.

10 gallons from 165F to BOIL is 18 minutes.

So if you start with 13g it will take 24 minutes.
Click to expand...

So how would you best supply power to the 2 elements if you were going to use exclusively 120VAC? Would you have to plug them in at different parts of the house? I have 220 in my house, but I like the idea of being able to use 120VAC as it can be found anywhere.
 
ScubaSteve said:
So how would you best supply power to the 2 elements if you were going to use exclusively 120VAC? Would you have to plug them in at different parts of the house? I have 220 in my house, but I like the idea of being able to use 120VAC as it can be found anywhere.
Click to expand...

I mean, the outlets could be right next to one another, but they have to be on separate circuits.
 
humann_brewing said:
Ok thanks, now one more question since I am in a Dummies thread. I want to hook a march pump to this so it turns it on/off accordingly when the heat is on. Is that what the output you are talking about is for.

Oops I see you said it was for an SSR, now I am confused, why would you want one without an output for an SSR and can I hook my march pump up to these to turn on and off with the heather?
Click to expand...

It has two outputs, I think. You may want to double check. But, what I thought I read was one relay contact and one SSR driver. So you can switch the pump with the relay contact and use an ssr for the element
 
Ok, got the first order done :) Thanks for the help

Qty. Item Name Total
1 x 40 A SSR $19.00
1 x 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller * Output Configuration: Relay Contactor $59.50
1 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, 1/4 NPT Thread $29.95
 
Just an FYI but the online prices at Murray Equipment are not accurate. I guess they have had troubles with their system and the prices are up. I think all the stuff cost me about $64 instead of $51 which the web said.

Edit: it was the wrong price in house, web prices are good. Saved me $15 :)
 
Anyone know what the typical amps a electric dryer would have on its circuit? I know I could check when I get home, but I am curious if I could plug in there if I make a E-Kettle. I know the dryer pulls about 5500w which is the same as an element I might get.
 
I got everything minus the SS pipe stuff today. Looks like I will need some more wires to go from and to the controller, off to the store on the way home :) Wish me luck, I will probably come back with questions.
 
so I have wired up most of it and figured most of it out but my temp is reading like 34 which is way too hot for Celcius and way too cold for F, so what the heck is that plus it is sending to the output no matter if I am above or below the set point. Anyone else run into this?

I am using the following RTD sensor

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=96

What Input Selection "Sn" do I use?

I also have the 1/4 DIN model http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=102
 
humann_brewing said:
so I have wired up most of it and figured most of it out but my temp is reading like 34 which is way too hot for Celcius and way too cold for F, so what the heck is that plus it is sending to the output no matter if I am above or below the set point. Anyone else run into this?

I am using the following RTD sensor

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=96

What Input Selection "Sn" do I use?

I also have the 1/4 DIN model http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=102
Click to expand...

The red probes from the rtd go onto pins 14 and 15, and the blue one on 16.
It's a pt100 rtd so use SN=21.

good luck!
 
Here are some pics from testing tonight

P1050709.JPG


hooked it up to a single pole switch

P1050712.JPG
 
Ive got a temperature controller, and probe that all runs on 24DC, what do I need to buy that will turn on the power to my heating element?
 
I use a 10 quart grant to recirculate at the end of the mash to clear. Can I stick an element (running off 120V service) in it and recirculate during the mash to hold temp?
 
humann_brewing said:
I got my 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller with 20AMP SSR hooked up with Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, 1/4 NPT Thread probe.

Things look like their working but the element is not heating. I am only getting 23.6 volts on my meter out and in to the SSR. Why is this 23.6 and not 120? I get zip on the output of the SSR.


ahhh I just want this thing working.
Click to expand...

Hi, please post a wiring schematic of what you have wired and how you are measuring so we all can help.
 
tipicreeper said:
Hi, please post a wiring schematic of what you have wired and how you are measuring so we all can help.
Click to expand...

I have copied this diagram with exceptions of: my output of the SSR goes directly to the element and I have a 3 prong thermocouple

RIMS%20Circuit%20Diagram.jpg


I have my pump on a separate circuit so I can turn it on and off by itself while I test.

The probe seems to be doing good, reading the right temps and giving the green output light when it is suppose to. The SSR light also lights up but sometimes blinks.

I have been going through the manual and the option for "OP-A" is for the output and is currently set to 0 which is say it should be for "Time-proportional output"
 
I have to have some sort of setting wrong, because even when I have my set temp below the actual temp it still sends out but it pulses I guess like the manual mode but I don't know much about that right now.

When the SSR lights is on, my meter picks up 23.6V being sent and when it is off, it shows 0. The output of the SSR is 0 all the time though.
 
humann_brewing said:
I have copied this diagram with exceptions of: my output of the SSR goes directly to the element and I have a 3 prong thermocouple

The probe seems to be doing good, reading the right temps and giving the green output light when it is suppose to. The SSR light also lights up but sometimes blinks.

I have been going through the manual and the option for "OP-A" is for the output and is currently set to 0 which is say it should be for "Time-proportional output"
Click to expand...

Not sure how you have yours wired... but in that drawing, the output of the SSR goes directly to the heat element. I think you have a wiring problem... When you have an LED illuminated on the SSR, you should have output regardless of the PID settings.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
Not sure how you have yours wired... but in that drawing, the output of the SSR goes directly to the heat element. I think you have a wiring problem... When you have an LED illuminated on the SSR, you should have output regardless of the PID settings.
Click to expand...

I thought the diagram had the negative going to the element and the positive going to the hot then the other element contact goes to the neutral?
 

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