ebay aquarium temp controller build

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JuanMoore said:
Just because it has a lower contact rating doesn't mean considering one is dumb. I have one of these controlling my keezer and two controlling my HERMS. As long as you only need single stage and you're not switching anything over 5A, these actually have several advantages over the STC-1000. They are cheaper, easier to program, have more programming options, fahrenheit readouts, and SS temp probes.
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I lost this link, could someone direct me please? Thx!
 
notzj1701 said:
I lost this link, could someone direct me please? Thx!
Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251083841214?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

This one is a little cheaper. It's the same single-stage Fahrenheit model. I'm waiting for one to come in. My gut is that these are not 5A models because I don't think anyone has reported getting an actual 5A version of this yet. I'm gonna pop it open as soon as I get it and confirm. It'll likely be another week before it arrives, though.
 
I can think of several applications where I only need temp control in one direction. Cooling would be all I need for my keggerator build. Do you think you could run that model in heat mode also? Heating would be all I need for an electric HLT. I'm also thinking of building a control panel with 2 of those single stage controllers in it so I could use my 2 stage to keep the fridge at lagger temps but use fermwraps to keep two more fermenters at ale temps.

Anyway, keep us posted! :mug:

Newgene said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251083841214?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

This one is a little cheaper. It's the same single-stage Fahrenheit model. I'm waiting for one to come in. My gut is that these are not 5A models because I don't think anyone has reported getting an actual 5A version of this yet. I'm gonna pop it open as soon as I get it and confirm. It'll likely be another week before it arrives, though.
Click to expand...
 
stoneBriar said:
I can think of several applications where I only need temp control in one direction. Cooling would be all I need for my keggerator build. Do you think you could run that model in heat mode also? Heating would be all I need for an electric HLT. I'm also thinking of building a control panel with 2 of those single stage controllers in it so I could use my 2 stage to keep the fridge at lagger temps but use fermwraps to keep two more fermenters at ale temps.

Anyway, keep us posted! :mug:
Click to expand...

Yes, they can be switched back and forth between cooling and heating mode easily. I use one in my keezer, and two of them in the control panel for my HERMS, but my HERMS is gas. These aren't rated for the amperage needed to control even a small electric HLT, so you'd need to add an SSR, at which point you'd probably just be better off buying a PID instead.
 
Newgene said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251083841214?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

This one is a little cheaper. It's the same single-stage Fahrenheit model. I'm waiting for one to come in. My gut is that these are not 5A models because I don't think anyone has reported getting an actual 5A version of this yet. I'm gonna pop it open as soon as I get it and confirm. It'll likely be another week before it arrives, though.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you mean about a 5A version, that's simply what they're rated for. Mine have the same relays as the STC-1000, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the controllers as a whole are rated for the same amperage as the STC-1000. It might be the traces or other components that bring the rating down to 5 amps.
 
JuanMoore said:
Looks like 6x8x3 to me. FWIW I used a 6x6x2 j-box, and the controller with one outlet was a very tight fit.



:confused: You provided a link to one two posts ago.
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And since the link you provided didn't work I'm supposed to know that it's the same one, how....??? :pipe:
 
I think I read this sometime and the answer was the can heater, but anyone use this to control a space heater is that too many amps?
 
JuanMoore said:
I'm not sure what you mean about a 5A version, that's simply what they're rated for. Mine have the same relays as the STC-1000, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the controllers as a whole are rated for the same amperage as the STC-1000. It might be the traces or other components that bring the rating down to 5 amps.
Click to expand...

It's the relay contact current. It is what would be stamped as the rating on the relays attached to the board itself. As suspected, mine is not 5A. So, this is what is said:

Relay contact current: Rated 5A (in the actual ebay ad)
Relay contact current: Rated 10A (in the paperwork that came with the controller)
Relay contact current: 15A @ 125VAC (as stamped on the actual relays)

LOL
 
Just finished mine and couldn't be happier with it: Dual stage STC-1000 with two outlets mounted on a 4 gang blue box and and outlet box. Maintaining my fermentation temperature +/- 0.3 degrees C.

I used a 4 gang box and a corresponding outlet mask to give myself a little extra room as the wiring was a little tight. The next time that I make one of these I'll probably use an outdoor pvc box and break off the tab on one of the outlets to control both heating and cooling with one outlet.

304682_355444374552720_154301958_n.jpg


Best,

Steve
 
seedubxj said:
Add me to the list of completed controllers.

Added indicator lights for across the garage viewing.
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Sweet. What type of lights are they? Did you wire them in series or parallel with the loads?
 
Here is my wiring diagram. The box is from radio shack. Not sure if its wired in parallel or not. I just followed the schematics I found and, low and behold, it works!

image-2459513747.jpg
 
seedubxj said:
Here is my wiring diagram. The box is from radio shack. Not sure if its wired in parallel or not. I just followed the schematics I found and, low and behold, it works!
Click to expand...

Sadly.. this confuses me lol.. I have my work cut out for me when I order mine.:mad:
 
I just finished 2 out of the three temp controllers I am needing for the builds I'll be doing. I am having an issue with one of them, the cooling side of the outlet I have wired up isn't providing any sort of power, the heating side does though... but i am hearing the audible click of it swapping from heat-cool-heat, but it isn't providing power. Could there be something wrong with the outlet? or the actual controller?
 
raouliii said:
The lamps are in parallel with the receptacles in that diagram. As it should be.
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I couldn't remember how it should be. Parallel would show command. Series would show response. It was the current capacity of the bulb that had me wondering.
 
I'm using 14 g wire on mine; how do you install a fuse on the power in (black) wire, according to your diagram? Is it necessary? I'm using a power strip with a surge protector, but would rather use a fuse if I can.
 
jeepinjeepin said:
I couldn't remember how it should be. Parallel would show command. Series would show response. It was the current capacity of the bulb that had me wondering.
Click to expand...

Parallel. Wire it in parallel. Otherwise it's all a bit wrong. You'll end up with a voltage divider (not the full voltage over you light or heater). Eg with 110v, if you had two lights in series the will be running at 55v.

You are correct though in that series will indicate response (being not an open circuit)
 
hi guys im really stuck..

i searched all day today at our hardware store here in australia and i could only find a power point with 2 on/off switches and 2 power outlets they didnt sell the ones like you guys have with just the 2 power outlets without the on/off switches..

i noticed on the back of my powerpoint there is only 3 holes for wires, ground, positive and neutral.. in the original diagram that android has posted he has several wires going into his powerpoint are they just numerous wires going into the one hole?? i dont think im able to use it as my power point is different.. also i looked every where for 15amp rating power chords and the highest was 10amp exact same with the power points, all were 10amp. am i going to be ok with just 10amp stuff? i read all the packets on the extension cords as well and they said 10amp also.. i spent quite a while just looking at things..

basicly heres the powerpoint i bought.
2013-01-09122932.jpg

2013-01-09122925.jpg
2013-01-09122851.jpg


if i can use the 10amp stuff could i ask a massive favour?
can someone please take the time to finish my dodgy wiring drawing please?? it would be muchly appreciated and id owe you one.. id just like a safe operating temp controller without burning my house down lol

i dont mind going on a bit more of a hunt to find a 15amp powerpoint and cable but the powerpoint will still be the same on the back as the one in the photo of the above..

thanks in advance guys
dodgydiagram.jpg


i can do this wiring if i use the end of a few extension leads.. but i thought it would be quite nice to use the powerpoint instead it looks alot more professional haha
 
You will probably have to purchase another one of those power points. One each will be controlled by the 2 stage controller.

Could you post a picture of your Australian wall receptacles? That is all we are using here in the US is the standard wall receptacle. However, you guys all use 240V over there and these are only rated to 120V.
 
I ordered (2) more of these STC-1000's today! I am going to independently control 2 of 3 fermentation vessels in my chest chamber with them. They will only use the heating function and will power 4' each of 11" wide reptile heat tape. The fermentation vessel not heated by heat tape will be controlled by the "master" controller. (I already have that one)...
 
Huaco said:
I ordered (2) more of these STC-1000's today! I am going to independently control 2 of 3 fermentation vessels in my chest chamber with them. They will only use the heating function and will power 4' each of 11" wide reptile heat tape. The fermentation vessel not heated by heat tape will be controlled by the "master" controller. (I already have that one)...
Click to expand...

That sounds like a sweet idea.. Looking forward to hearing how it works for ya
 
Yaksha808 said:
I just finished 2 out of the three temp controllers I am needing for the builds I'll be doing. I am having an issue with one of them, the cooling side of the outlet I have wired up isn't providing any sort of power, the heating side does though... but i am hearing the audible click of it swapping from heat-cool-heat, but it isn't providing power. Could there be something wrong with the outlet? or the actual controller?
Click to expand...

I had one do the same thing. It was new out of the box, I could hear the click but the swich never closed. I emailed the seller in Hong Kong describing the problem, and they sent a replacement unit. Of course it took a couple weeks, but they made good. I inquired about returning the faulty unit and they told me to keep it. Wasn't worth the shipping I guess. So now I have an extra temperature sensor with heat capability. I use it to run a fan to equalize the temperature on my side by side kegerator as the former freezer side tends to be about 5 degrees cooler than the fridge side.
 
that is the standard powerpoint mate, i ordered a 240v stc1000 as well..

its ok ill just have to buy another one to wire it in.. for the time being im going to make one with just extension cords.. thanks fellas
 
i just ended up wiring up a box with extension leads, ill make my next one with powerpoints.. i havent recieved my stc1000 yet but everything short of it is wired up and all the spare wires are labelled for the appropriate slot on the stc..

its messy at the moment, i wanna put a bit of heat shrink around that expose wire thats just hanging out on the block.. i also had to extend some wires.. if i umm and ahh about it before the stc gets here ill just got get another $4 worth of extension cables and re wire it..

all my wires were tinned and soldered together.. they seem nice and secure.
2013-01-09_1919251_zps7a225fb2.jpg
 
thenewbrewer said:
also i looked every where for 15amp rating power chords and the highest was 10amp exact same with the power points, all were 10amp. am i going to be ok with just 10amp stuff? i read all the packets on the extension cords as well and they said 10amp also..
Click to expand...
Aussies, and most people, are on 220-240VAC 50Hz, so your equivalent Amp needs (and wire diameter/gauge) are ~60% of what a similar device requires in the US. I think in most 220-240VAC 50Hz places, the standard household circuit is 10 Amp, which is why you found mainly 10A 'rated' cords. There may be wire gauge differences even though they are all 10A 'rated'. All should be fine for your application, but thicker can't hurt. The reason why many here note what 'gauge' they are using is that we have 15-20 Amp circuits, but many cords are rated well below that (16 & 18 ga). I believe the recommendation for 14 gauge is from an electrical code for a 15 Amp circuit, since that is what most household 110V circuits are rated. You (in Aus) can get away with a smaller gauge if your circuits are 10 Amp.

Resistive devices (tea kettles, heaters) are an exception to the ~60% rule as they usually max out the Amp rating of the standard household circuit. This is why 220V electric kettles work so much better, and are more popular outside the US. The choice of 50Hz is another matter, as it was just an idiotic 'metric' choice that actually reduces motor efficiency. There is something magical about 60Hz and AC motors.
 
Huaco said:
Yeah, I will be pumping directly into a sanitized fermentor. I will rack with a few PSI of CO2. Here is a picture of my arrangment...
Malt%20Drum%20Fermentors%20%28Large%29.jpg
Click to expand...

May I quickly hijack the thread for one question? What are those fermentors and where did you get them?
 
To keep from continuing a thread-jacking... here is the link to my fermentation chamber build.
 Take a look and ask away... I think I have all the hardware nailed down to be able to make this work without lifting a single carboy again... I will be selling all 8 of my glass carboys locally soon.


BACK ON TOPIC...

I see that the "Mounting Size" for these STC1000 controller is 71x29mm. (2.790"x1.141") Is that the size of the opening in the panel front? I built one back in the summer, but it has been a while since then. I have some controllers on order and want to get a jump on fabricating my control center for this chamber. It will have 3 controllers in it.
 
Wow. Ok...
I stopped by the hardware store to buy wire for wiring up my tripple controller. I asked the young lady helping me to cut 20' each of the stranded 14 ga wire in black, red, white, and green. I was thinking I would have plenty to do that I need with 20'... She said she didnt remember how to use the spooling/measuring machine but would just measure and cut it for me and have it up front waiting for me at checkout. I get home and take them out to put them up, and needed to recoil them into a neater coil. Turns out she cut me around 60' of each! I only got charged for 20' each though.
 
Huaco said:
Wow. Ok...
I stopped by the hardware store to buy wire for wiring up my tripple controller. I asked the young lady helping me to cut 20' each of the stranded 14 ga wire in black, red, white, and green. I was thinking I would have plenty to do that I need with 20'... She said she didnt remember how to use the spooling/measuring machine but would just measure and cut it for me and have it up front waiting for me at checkout. I get home and take them out to put them up, and needed to recoil them into a neater coil. Turns out she cut me around 60' of each! I only got charged for 20' each though.
Click to expand...

60 feet? Are you wiring them on the surface of the moon?
 

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