Hermit
fuddle
I should post a picture of mine. No box. Just cut up some extension cords and wired them in. That way I can still plug things in and don't have to alter my heat/cool devices at all.
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Salmonhouse
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Better to not rig it up too much, especially when were dealing with 120v ac.
sillyburt
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ah man I think I fried mine. I plugged it in last night for a quick second and made sure the temp was at the right setting. then unplugged it. after brewing I plugged it in and within a few seconds the screen went blank. since then I haven't been able to get anything out of it.
I made sure the power supply wired were all conected good. I've got power to the screws on the temp controller.
the fridge Im using claims it only pulls 1.8 amps.
man does anyone have any suggestions besides ordering a new one? I'm at a loss here ??
I think I'm going to plug it in and check to see if there's power to the cool outlet. maybe only the screen went bad...but that still means I need ot get a new one....damn !!!
[edit] BTW I've used it twice before so I know it did work at one time
I made sure the power supply wired were all conected good. I've got power to the screws on the temp controller.
the fridge Im using claims it only pulls 1.8 amps.
man does anyone have any suggestions besides ordering a new one? I'm at a loss here ??
I think I'm going to plug it in and check to see if there's power to the cool outlet. maybe only the screen went bad...but that still means I need ot get a new one....damn !!!
[edit] BTW I've used it twice before so I know it did work at one time
bootin-gluten
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I would like to do the same thing as Cranium... Replace the stock thermostat in my kegerator (because it is terrible). I bought the 110V controller off of e-bay but I can't do the same thing as most of you in this forum because I want to signal the compressor to turn on, not the fridge itself. Can someone give me a hand as to what the wiring should look like? Thanks in advance!
killerzeek
Active Member
Yup.
I followed this wiring and everything was operating correctly.
Then I decided to solder the wire splices and now nothing works. It doesn't even power up at all. Is this because I left the leads wired in to the controller?
No that should not matter. Double check your wiring.
killerzeek
Active Member
I have checked several times. I even tried to hook up only the power and nothing. I think I fried it.
Can it cause problems if the wire is overheated? i.e. solder iron was applied to long
Are you sure that you have power in the power in line? Do you have a voltmeter?
Can you use standard computer fans (80mm) with this controller? Conventional logic tells me no because the fans are 5V or 6V (or similar) and controller is 110-120V, but I am not sure if my thinking is correct.
Thanks!
Thanks!
dan6
Member
Computer fans are generally 12v DC. If you can locate an old wall wart or power supply from a cordless phone or something along that line that's 12v it can be adapted to run them. It will usually have some sort of coaxial cable going to the pin-the center cable will be one pole, the outer braid the other pole.
Thanks!
That's what I thought. I'm using an old side by side with two chambers and two controllers, so each one will also control a fan. I was hoping that my thinking was wrong, but I'll go get 115v muffin fans instead and use the computer fans for a stir plate.
Shaggyt
Well-Known Member
Unless you use a removable heat sink, you don't really want to "solder in place" or all wired up as you have done. I would think the controller would not be as sensitive as say an IC chip or smaller component.
I agree with RonRock that it probably is OK, but in theory, solder in place CAN fry your circuit board.
mikeysab
Well-Known Member
just got my controller. I was very surprised when i took it out of the box. It's heavier and more sturdy than I was expecting. Feels like a quality build. My parents just got back from 6 weeks in florida, so I'm dropping off the baby tomorrow and putting my ferm chamber together tomorrow. Thanks to the OP for the great find.
bootin-gluten
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Hey all,
I'm trying to replace the stock thermostat in my kegerator with one of the ebay ones. I've attached a diagram of what I think I should be doing. Can someone let me know if this makes sense?
I don't think I should require heating, do I need a jumper or something for those spots?
Also, can I use speaker wire for the connections? I have some of that lying around.
Thanks in advance!
I'm trying to replace the stock thermostat in my kegerator with one of the ebay ones. I've attached a diagram of what I think I should be doing. Can someone let me know if this makes sense?
I don't think I should require heating, do I need a jumper or something for those spots?
Also, can I use speaker wire for the connections? I have some of that lying around.
Thanks in advance!
sillyburt
Well-Known Member
ah man I think I fried mine. I plugged it in last night for a quick second and made sure the temp was at the right setting. then unplugged it. after brewing I plugged it in and within a few seconds the screen went blank. since then I haven't been able to get anything out of it.
I made sure the power supply wired were all conected good. I've got power to the screws on the temp controller.
the fridge Im using claims it only pulls 1.8 amps.
man does anyone have any suggestions besides ordering a new one? I'm at a loss here ??
I think I'm going to plug it in and check to see if there's power to the cool outlet. maybe only the screen went bad...but that still means I need ot get a new one....damn !!!
[edit] BTW I've used it twice before so I know it did work at one time
anyone have any idea besides just getting another one?
Sacdan
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Have you contacted the seller and see if he will send a replacement yet?
Mad_Milo
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Double/triple check your wire connections. Look for stray wires that are bridging gaps. Use a voltmeter to see if/where you have voltage.
Tug on the connections at the controller, make sure they are tight.
Does it power up at all after holding the power button for >5 seconds?
Tug on the connections at the controller, make sure they are tight.
Does it power up at all after holding the power button for >5 seconds?
Bjornbrewer
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I don't think overloading the relay will fry the entire unit. I think you just have a dude there. If the display worked and the relay wasn't switching I'd say you could replace the relay, but I think you're SOL.
You do have power to the unit???
Bjornbrewer
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I don't understand what you have going on there. you should have the power going to the controller (pins 1 and 2) right off the input cord (black and white). Then I think you should have pin 7 wire to the black input and pin 8 go to the red of the compressor (before the overload protector!)
bootin-gluten
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So like this?
Seems to make more sense, I was just getting confused by what some of the other people were doing. If I do nothing with the heating circuit, what will happen if the temp. drops below the set point? This might happen on a very cold winter day.
Should I tap into the power cord from the fridge or give the controller a dedicated line?
bootin-gluten, do you have a plug in cord still connected to your fridge? If so you do not need to mess with the wiring in the fridge at all. Simply get a good extension cord (12 gage=best, 14 gage=OK) and chop it in half. Use one half to feed the controller, the other half with the female plug receptical to plug the fridge into. No need to mess with the fridge.
bootin-gluten
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Yeah, the fridge is still intact. The problem is that the stock thermostat doesn't signal the compressor to turn on unless the temperature varies from the set point by 10 degrees F. I think your strategy will just turn the fridge on and not the compressor, giving me the same problem as before. I think I need to replace the stock thermostat.
Is this a fairly new fridge? Or an older one like would typically be found in a garage? Well at least my garage. I only ask because it sure don't seem to me like you should have to replace the thermostat, that is what the controller is for. A 10* swing sounds like a lot, so maybe you will need to cut into the wiring. Sounds like Bjornbrewer is trying to help you with that. I should have read the whole series before stepping in. I just didn't want you to cut into your wiring if not necessary.
bootin-gluten
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Yeah, I guess I mis-typed thermostat when I really meant controller. The controller is simply not engaging the compressor until there is a very large temperature deviation from the set point. This is where the wiring question came in.
OK, is this an older fridge or newer unit? If newer I would suggest fixing the fridge controller first, then you can make the new controller work.
bootin-gluten
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The fridge was made in 2005 (I would define this as 'newer') but perhaps I'm not explaining the problem adequately. The stock controller is garbage, which is why I want to replace it. I bought the ebay controller but I'm not 100% sure about the wiring, which was my original query. Does this make more sense? The revised diagram (thank you Bjornbrewer) is provided below again if someone wants to comment on it. Does this make sense for replacing the stock controller?
Should I split the power cord to the fridge for powering the controller or should I give it a dedicated line?
Should I split the power cord to the fridge for powering the controller or should I give it a dedicated line?
Hermit
fuddle
This looks right. I'd unplug the controller though just to be safe.
The way to use this controller with an intact fridge/freezer is to set the fridge's original equipment temperature dial/setting to the coldest possible setting, then plug the fridge into the controller outlet (when wired using the standard schematic). Are you saying that your fridge, in original factory dress, will not reliably turn on when it set to the lowest possible temp, and internal temps are above the range for fermenting/serving?
bootin-gluten
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Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. I think the fridge I bought was not a good choice for a kegerator. The minimum temperature I can set is 43F (ie. the coldest setting) and the controller allows the temperature to reach over 53F before signaling the compressor to turn on. I should have checked this out before the warranty expired, it wasn't originally meant for a kegerator.
atomicpunk78
Member
Dude - this does't even qualify as a good choice for a refigerator! Sorry to ask the "dumb" question but you sure you have the fridge side (if this is a fridge/freezer combo) set to the coldest setting, not the warmest?
You may have gotten better/more suggestions if you had stated your initial problem, instead of trying to ask for help implementing your solution (a solution which didn't seem to make sense for a normal fridge/kegerator).
There are a number of ways to defeat an existing temp controller. It all depends on what your existing temp controller/kegerator is based on- digital, dial, wine chiller, fridge? With more specific info, a better solution may be available. Some possible solutions are-
-Replace the factory temp sensor with an appropriate resistor, or just cut the wire (depends on the controller). That would be a semi-destructive method, but non-destructivley you could tape a small (I mean tiny, like 1/4 watt) heat source to the existing sensor to fool it. I think that has been used to fool sensors for A/C window unit used in cold storage rooms.
-Move the factory sensor outside the unit. This will work if you live in a warm area, and even if you don't for non-fermentation uses.
-Depending on what wires are easily visible, you may be able to hardwire the control circuit so the compressor will always be "on", then use the standard controller and outlets combo.
Hard to say what would be easiest, or what solution you would think is best, without more info.
What is this thing? Is it one of those wine cabinets with the digital controller with a red/white setting? Is the "compressor" you refer to a real compressor, or one of those "compressorless" peltier/thermoelectric fridges?
bootin-gluten
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Sorry, I guess a better description of the problem would have been useful. I thought replacing the controller would be the solution since I couldn't get anything else to work.
The fridge is a 5.8 cf mini-fridge which I have converted into a kegerator by adding a tower to the top. It is a real fridge with a compressor (not a wine chiller or similar) and a digital thermostat/temperature sensor. The setting on the fridge will only allow me to put it as low as 43F and the temperature will increase by 10 degrees or more before the controller kicks in. This is why I wanted to replace the controller, it won't keep it cold enough and it allows for these wild temperature swings. Also, whenever the power is cycled to the unit (unplugged or power flicker), it defaults the setting back to 49F or something ridiculous like that. If I've missed on some info here, let me know and I'll post it, I'm just not sure what other information is required.
I would hesitate a little bit to fool the sensor because I wouldn't want the compressor to run constantly and potentially freeze the beer.
If I could hardwire the compressor to always be "on", i could use the strategy that others have used in here with the outlet system.
P.S. Atomicpunk: not a dumb question at all. That may be the problem that some people have as the dials can sometimes be misleading. Mine is digital though, so I am sure it is at the coldest setting.
The fridge is a 5.8 cf mini-fridge which I have converted into a kegerator by adding a tower to the top. It is a real fridge with a compressor (not a wine chiller or similar) and a digital thermostat/temperature sensor. The setting on the fridge will only allow me to put it as low as 43F and the temperature will increase by 10 degrees or more before the controller kicks in. This is why I wanted to replace the controller, it won't keep it cold enough and it allows for these wild temperature swings. Also, whenever the power is cycled to the unit (unplugged or power flicker), it defaults the setting back to 49F or something ridiculous like that. If I've missed on some info here, let me know and I'll post it, I'm just not sure what other information is required.
I would hesitate a little bit to fool the sensor because I wouldn't want the compressor to run constantly and potentially freeze the beer.
If I could hardwire the compressor to always be "on", i could use the strategy that others have used in here with the outlet system.
P.S. Atomicpunk: not a dumb question at all. That may be the problem that some people have as the dials can sometimes be misleading. Mine is digital though, so I am sure it is at the coldest setting.
All of my solutions assumed you would be using the aquarium controller as the "true" controller. The above solutions you referenced are essentially equivalent, and both would require a secondary controller that switches the power on/off to the entire fridge.
There is no (easy) way to make the existing factory controller do what you require it to. As for other solutions, there are a limited number of approaches to take- retrofit a different controller into the original circuit, or defeat the existing circuit to always have the compressor active. The latter method would use the aquarium controller like most here- controlling power to the entire fridge.
I believe that retrofitting will be more difficult than fooling/hardwiring the existing circuit. I listed several possibilities in my previous post on how to accomplish this. Of these, hardwiring the compressor is probably the most complex, especially for non-technical, non-electrical types.
If you live in a warm area, and just want a serving fridge, all you need to do is move the sensor outside of the fridge,. This is possible even if the factory digital controller still uses one of the copper tube type thermocouples, and even easier if it is a wired type sensor.
bootin-gluten
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I am in Canada so it isn't really warm enough to use that strategy I don't think... It has snowed about 8 inches in the last 24 hours. What would be involved in hard-wiring the compressor? I figure that swapping the stock controller out for the aquarium controller wouldn't be too hard as long as the wiring is right. I'm not sure how to go about hard-wiring the compressor to stay on.
