ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Because we were all dying to know why it wouldn't work on the wrong power source ;)
There have been a number of posts pointing out the fact that a 220vac unit appears to partially function on 110vac. I explained why.

I just thought I would offer up a tidbit of information pertinent to this thread. Evidently it wasn't worth much to you.
 
So I have been through at least 50 pages of threads on the forum and haven't yet seen the info i need.

I bought a single stage controller off ebay. A 110v unit. You go into the setup and tell it to either heat or cool.

The instructions for wiring came up missing. I'm looking for a wiring diagram or picture.

The screw clamps are labeled as follows:

1/2: switch
3/4: power
5/6:function control
7/8: temp probe

?'s :
what is function control for?

should it be wired as follows:
hot to 1 & 3
neutral to 4 and outlet
hot from 2 to outlet

temp probe is 7/8

what is 5/6 for?

thanks in advance,
John
 
That seems correct.

Function control is ignored by most people - shorting it locks the settings. I have mine wired to an actual key switch so that I can literally lock the settings if I feel I need to.
 
So I have been through at least 50 pages of threads on the forum and haven't yet seen the info i need.

I bought a single stage controller off ebay. A 110v unit. You go into the setup and tell it to either heat or cool.

The instructions for wiring came up missing. I'm looking for a wiring diagram or picture.

The screw clamps are labeled as follows:

1/2: switch
3/4: power
5/6:function control
7/8: temp probe

?'s :
what is function control for?

should it be wired as follows:
hot to 1 & 3
neutral to 4 and outlet
hot from 2 to outlet

temp probe is 7/8

what is 5/6 for?

thanks in advance,
John

Yep, sounds good. As Emjay said, shorting 5/6 disables the ability to change any of the settings. Here's a wiring diagram if it helps-

7028-6261.jpg
 

Depends on the application. For a ferm chamber you'll probably want the STC-1000 since it's dual stage. For a keezer or brewery control panel they'll both work, but I have a slight preference for the single stage unit since it has a nicer temp probe and more programming options.
 
Depends on the application. For a ferm chamber you'll probably want the STC-1000 since it's dual stage. For a keezer or brewery control panel they'll both work, but I have a slight preference for the single stage unit since it has a nicer temp probe and more programming options.
And the single stage reads in Fahrenheit.
 
I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the display in Celsius. Its easy to convert...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/farenheit-celcius-chart-your-stc-1000-a-342178/

:mug:
For my fermentation chamber, in which I monitor temperatures very closely, I got very tired of having to convert, even with a table next to the controller. I switched over to a single stage, farenheit unit and couldn't be happier. An additional difficulty is that my controller is near the floor and a quick glance with no conversion was just easier. The chamber is already setup with a heat source, so I'll add a cool / heat switch if needed for the winter.

To each his own.:mug:

5887-5279.jpg
 
raouliii said:
For my fermentation chamber, in which I monitor temperatures very closely, I got very tired of having to convert, even with a table next to the controller. I switched over to a single stage, farenheit unit and couldn't be happier. An additional difficulty is that my controller is near the floor and a quick glance with no conversion was just easier. The chamber is already setup with a heat source, so I'll add a cool / heat switch if needed for the winter.

To each his own.:mug:

For those of us that actually want or need the dual-stage functionality, it's best to just put up with Celsius. If you think you'll NEVER need more than single-stage on any given day with any given style, then more power to you. Some of us prefer to control ferm temps very precisely regardless of circumstances... in just about any environment there is almost definitely a range of ferm temps for which the ambient temp will be both higher AND lower during the course of a day (though not necessarily EVERY day).

But really, it shouldn't take long at all to internalize it and start thinking about ferm temps in terms of °C just as naturally as one currently thinks about it in terms of °F.
 
Hi guys. I have looked through this thread and couldn't find if anyone made detailed instructions and a part list on how to build this thing. I do not have any experience with wiring things, but I want to save some money on a dual temp control so it seems like this is the way to go.

Has anyone made a parts list and detailed build instructions (maybe even with pictures)? I am from the US so I may need to get a special controller, I am not sure would this one work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC...030?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c5c422f6

Thanks!
 
Hi, I wanna ask a question about incubtor to you. I really have a problem with the digital thermostat of WILHI just like you showed. The question is that how can I set the temperature at 37.7, I adjust it between 37-38 but can not 37.7 how can I do it please help me????
 
Hi, I wanna ask a question about incubtor to you. I really have a problem with the digital thermostat of WILHI just like you showed. The question is that how can I set the temperature at 37.7, I adjust it between 37-38 but can not 37.7 how can I do it please help me????
I think you are using the wrong device if you need to be at an EXACT temp. .3° is well within the margin of error for something like this unit. If you need to keep an exact temp you will want to look to something into scientific or medical supply equipment and expect to spend a whole lot more than $20.
 
Hi, I wanna ask a question about incubtor to you. I really have a problem with the digital thermostat of WILHI just like you showed. The question is that how can I set the temperature at 37.7, I adjust it between 37-38 but can not 37.7 how can I do it please help me????

Sounds like you're using a unit like mine, a single-stage WILLHI unit. I can only set to whole numbers, not decimals. I don't know if the STC-1000 can set a temp to decimal.

Can you post a picture of your unit? (please don't take that request out of context!)
 
Sounds like you're using a unit like mine, a single-stage WILLHI unit. I can only set to whole numbers, not decimals. I don't know if the STC-1000 can set a temp to decimal.

Can you post a picture of your unit? (please don't take that request out of context!)

Yes, the STC-1000 adjusts to one decimal place *C.
 
On the OP's schematic, what do the little black nodules coming off of 5 & 7 represent? Is some kind of resistor needed in any line?

Also, I have a handful of new outlets to work with and I can't find a "tab" to snap off anywhere...anybody have a picture of what to look for?

Thanks guys,

Dustin
 
On the OP's schematic, what do the little black nodules coming off of 5 & 7 represent? Is some kind of resistor needed in any line?

Also, I have a handful of new outlets to work with and I can't find a "tab" to snap off anywhere...anybody have a picture of what to look for?

Thanks guys,

Dustin

They are wire nuts.

pliers-removing-outlet-tab.jpg
 
Hey guys. I'm a bit late to the party and have five tabs open at different intervals of this 290 page thread trying to find a definitive answer.

Here's the situation: Saw the thread and thought it would be a spectacular idea. Planning on going about it in the same way as OP.

The question/request: Does the way that the OP wired/designed his system work for hot and cold? And if not, what needs to be changed.

Also, anyone have the most absolute idiot-proof schematic on how to wire it for hot/cold on one receptacle? Me not so smart after 5 beerses. Danke.
 
bryix said:
Hey guys. I'm a bit late to the party and have five tabs open at different intervals of this 290 page thread trying to find a definitive answer.

Here's the situation: Saw the thread and thought it would be a spectacular idea. Planning on going about it in the same way as OP.

The question/request: Does the way that the OP wired/designed his system work for hot and cold? And if not, what needs to be changed.

Also, anyone have the most absolute idiot-proof schematic on how to wire it for hot/cold on one receptacle? Me not so smart after 5 beerses. Danke.

Yes, the way the OP wired it works for both hot and cold. The schematic you're after is in the very first post of this thread.
 
vincemash said:
Thanks for the image link!

also, I am going to do the heat, cool, fan with a relay and self contain the whole thing in a project box, the fourth outlet I will make always hot for an extra power outlet for my grain mill etc..... does this wiring diagram which I modified make sense?

I want to make sure I have this right before I begin building

thanks

The image link seems to be broken, any chance you still have the wiring schematic for this setup?
 
The image link seems to be broken, any chance you still have the wiring schematic for this setup?

I think his lawyer told him to remove the link. Of course that was only after he got someone to verify his schematic so he has someone to sue if something goes wrong.

There are various alternatives that will give the same or better performance than adding a relay. Much easier and better for serving or fermenting is to have the fan run full time. Plug it in the wall, or make an always powered outlet on the box.

If for some reason you only want to have a fan running when actively cooling or heating, a second fan can be added more cheaply than adding a relay. If you are having to ask how to wire up the relay, it is much simpler as well.
 
Just got around to taking a few pics of my build. I used the Radio Shack box and mounting everything inside box instead of to the cover. I used black Decora recepticals, easier to machine the openings. I have one each for the heat & cool side and one pass through on the bottom. The indicator lights let me see from a distance what mode it's in, if I had to do it again, I wouldn't bother. Of course I had to engrave the nomenclature, one day I might fill it with white paint.

front_stc-56059.jpg


rh_stc-56061.jpg


lh_stc-56060.jpg


bot_stc-56062.jpg

\
inside_stc-56063.jpg
 
Last day of the sale - mixtea (I believe a recommended seller here on this thread) has these going for $21.59 w/ free shipping.

I purchased two more of these for two ferm chambers I'm putting together. Already bought my keezer one from mixtea and it arrived in about 2 weeks to Seattle area.

Here
 
I wanted to let you guys know of a great product I came across. (I have no affiliation with this company by the way...)
Over at StainlessBrewing.com he is selling these 1/2"OD thermowells. I have had mine just over a week. It is already on it's second fermentation. Here is a picture of mine the day I got it in the mail.
418621_10151160349624224_1976275852_n.jpg


Here is a good picture from this morning showing that the carboy cap seals up NICELY. This was quite active and blew off quite a bit. No krausen came out of the carboy cap around the thermowell.
386796_10151176908139224_1658341397_n.jpg


The sensor probe on the STC-1000 has PLENTY of room and inserts down the I.D. of the tube with no problem at all.
 
I wanted to let you guys know of a great product I came across. (I have no affiliation with this company by the way...)
Over at StainlessBrewing.com he is selling these 1/2"OD thermowells. I have had mine just over a week. It is already on it's second fermentation. Here is a picture of mine the day I got it in the mail.
418621_10151160349624224_1976275852_n.jpg


Here is a good picture from this morning showing that the carboy cap seals up NICELY. This was quite active and blew off quite a bit. No krausen came out of the carboy cap around the thermowell.
386796_10151176908139224_1658341397_n.jpg


The sensor probe on the STC-1000 has PLENTY of room and inserts down the I.D. of the tube with no problem at all.
How did you sense the temp before? Taped to the side of the carboy?
 
Yes, the way the OP wired it works for both hot and cold. The schematic you're after is in the very first post of this thread.


Thanks. I focused my drunken brain and figured it out. At the time, I was paranoid that it might not work properly... And having a slightly clearer diagram would have only helped.

It's currently helping me brew a 10 gallon batch of Ed Wort's hefeweizen. I'm a proud papa.
 
Just read around and it seems that many prefer to try and keep the beer temp in check over ambient. I have my ambient set to 64 right now, US-05 repitch (w/starter) in a session PA. I think the internal ferm temps will still be fine, but next time I will tape it to the side of the FV with insulating material covering it. I may also install a small fan in the FC.
 
How were you measuring temps before? If you are controlling with an STC-1000 you really don't want that probe in open air. It will cause too frequent cycling because the air cools so much faster than wort.
 
How were you measuring temps before? If you are controlling with an STC-1000 you really don't want that probe in open air. It will cause too frequent cycling because the air cools so much faster than wort.

In a beer-bottle full of water. It buffers a lot of the temp change but again, it only controls "ambient" as it affects a liquid...but doesn't take into account the exothermic reactions inside the beer that cause the internal temp to rise.
 
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