Kettle Tap Dilemma

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ukbrewhaha

Active Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
36
Reaction score
9
Location
London
Currently have a problem with my new tap set-up, I basically have a leak on one of the joins.

34papg4.jpg


From the pic (see crude diagram below if need be) I have a tank connector fitted through the pot, then a small length of copper (B) fitting this to the tap. The leak is where copper (B) meets with the tank connector.

28m2s9k.jpg


I'm wondering whether there is a way to make this water tight (without soldering preferably). Note: I have tried using the spare nut from the top pic on the connector, with no success.

OR

At point (C), there is a small lip (see final pic below), I've read elsewhere that I can file this lip away and make copper (A) and (B) one solid length of copper.

Please advise me as to the best course of action.

Cheers for the help in advance!
15q2noh.jpg
 
Trouble with JB weld is you'll never get it out again. (It's not food safe either, although so little of it will contact the beer that it's hardly worth worrying about.) You could just solder it for that matter.

I would use silicone jointing compound rated for use with potable water. Fernox LS-X is widely used by UK brewers for this purpose. I'm sure there is an equivalent in the USA but I don't know any brands.
 
I have all my weldless valves sealed with JB Weld to prevent any leaks ...no problems ...just seal the outside hole ...you should still be able to remove you ball valve you have threaded...

Although I have never removed mine..don't see a need as long as you follow good cleaning practices after brewing...I always run hot PBW through my equipment before putting away

I've been making good beer even starting to make award winning beer so I believe it's safe and fine
 
So it seems JB is the way to go, massively preferred to the option of filing down the connector and trying my luck with a single piece of copper through the middle?

I suppose I may well end up needing some welding/JB anyway right haha.
 
Buy a stainless steel coupler and take your kettle and coupler to a welder. For around $20-$40 they will weld the coupler to the kettle allowing you a much better way to handle your valve. It's what I did and it works great.
 
Buy a stainless steel coupler and take your kettle and coupler to a welder. For around $20-$40 they will weld the coupler to the kettle allowing you a much better way to handle your valve. It's what I did and it works great.

Agree with this...wishing I would of went this route
 
That's another thing, is the rubber washer an issue? Will it withstand the heat?
 
Yes, the washer should be ok. I use one as well between my coupler and ball valve. Never had any issues with the heat and my pots around 5 years old.
 
That's another thing, is the rubber washer an issue? Will it withstand the heat?

Try it like that and if it fails, replace with an EPDM washer.

By the way, I just noticed that you have PTFE tape on the thread of your tank connector. I wonder if that is the problem. Take it off - the compression fitting is supposed to seal on the olive.
 
I tried the tape after I tried the compression fitting, I'll take it off and try again by really giving it a good squeeze on before I go off and buy some JB weld, pliers et all haha.

Thanks for the help, will keep you posted on my progress
 
So this is where I'm at now, I've managed to solve the original problem by using compression fittings alone and re sizing some of the copper.

NOW I've got to deal with the inside.

I've just done a test run off with some water, and the run off stops at the point where the hole is, not where my hop filter reaches down to (see picture)

dopcu0.jpg


I managed to get it to work by filling the tubing for the run off with water, and using the water falling out to pull the rest of the water in the pot through (if you get what I mean).

Will this system only work if I come up with some sort of syphoning device or get a pump? Or is there an easy work around that I'm missing?

Cheers
 
Back
Top