Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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I am attaching the pictures of the connector I used:

connector1.JPG


connector2.JPG


connector3.JPG
 
What up buddy i started this thread a while ago so i guess i was one of the first guys with this machine. just buy a voltage converter man. so easy and you can brew anywhere you want.

as far as the condensation question i dont think it will be a sticky mess since when you boil you are loosing water while all sugars and stuff just stay in the wort. it should just be steam sugar wont evaporate.

good luck on your brewing this machine is really great.


Alchemy said:
So now that my 20l will be here soon I am pondering the logistics of brewing in my apartment. I will need to vent the steam somehow from the boil off. I have a dryer vent that goes through the wall about 15 feet to the outside from the brew room and I also have a small basement slider window on the other side of the room away from the 220 line.

My questions are

A. If I vent through the dryer vent will the condensation build up into some sort of sticky mess inside of it.
B. if i am going to vent to the other window I will need an extension cord to make it over there. What should I use to extend the reach of the current electric cord? A welding cord? If I had a Lon enough cord I could potentially brew outside on really nice days.
Click to expand...
 
whats up guys i started this thread a long time ago and i cant belirve the ammount of replies crazy.

Can anyone put together a list of mods you have done to the braumeister? i saw the replacement valve and its a great idea since flow through the original one is slow.

or maybe start a new thread with mods you have done to the braumeister. i can imagine theres that many as this thing has been working great for me as is with the addition of a voltage converter.

thanks
 
instead of a barley crusher i would go with the new rebel brewing mill looks awsome with a hopper and everything for i think its 175.00. i have a crankanstein 3D stainless and it works well but for the money go wit hthe rebel its cheaper and everyone seems to like it. its a 2 roller by the way.

Getafix said:
The last 2 beers I made with the Braumeister were an Old Bavarian Weissbier and another version of a Kelheim Weissbier. Both beers have been in the bottle for over a month. I use Speise collected post chilling to carbonate most of the beers I make or a Speise/Sugar combo for non-German style beers.

Currently I am less concerned with beer color and haze, and am happy to be making high quality, delicious beer. The OBW really suprised me, initially it was a bit more malty than I like, but has balanced out nicely. The Kelheim is almost my ideal Hefe, it has a good balance between clove, banana, light malt and is highly carbonated. Both still need some tweaking though.

I am still using my Victoria (Corona) mill but am looking to get a Barley Crusher soon. The Victoria was good enough for my batch sparging days, where a fine crush with quite a bit of flour worked. I have to double or triple crush with it if I want it coarse, and the Braumeister works best with a coarse crush.

I noticed a bit of channeling on my last Kelheim Weissbier brew near the end of conversion, so paused the program and stirred the mash. I usually use rice hulls (didn't this time) but would prefer not to unless really necessary.

With simpler mash schedules and minimal data logging my brewdays are down to 6 hours, but the weather here in Toronto has been so nice I haven't been able to brew as much as I like. I am selfishly hoping for a couple of nasty snowfalls so that I can replenish the pipeline.
Click to expand...
 
FiveKaiBrewing said:
instead of a barley crusher i would go with the new rebel brewing mill looks awsome with a hopper and everything for i think its 175.00. i have a crankanstein 3D stainless and it works well but for the money go wit hthe rebel its cheaper and everyone seems to like it. its a 2 roller by the way.
Click to expand...

+1 for Monster Mill. Great product. I have the 2 roller.
 
Hi! New to the forum and new to brewing too. First of all I want to introduce myself and apologize for my english. I´ve been checking this threat during the last few months and it made me decide to get the braumeister. After 4 weeks of waiting my 50BM arrive today, so, I´m a happy man! I´m looking forward to share experiences about this amazing equipment. I just downloaded BeerSmith trial it looks amazing but I have problems with the configuration of my equipment: if there is another braumeister/beersmith user out there that can help me out with this it will be much appreciated. I own the 50l setup and Í also got the short malt pipe. Thank you very much in advance!
 
Obliviousbrew said:
if there is another braumeister/beersmith user out there that can help me out with this it will be much appreciated. I own the 50l setup and Í also got the short malt pipe. Thank you very much in advance!
Click to expand...

I too have the 50l unit with the shortened malt pipe. I use beersmith and am also trying to nail down the parameters. As I've only done 3 brews to date on it I'm still figuring it out. I haven't quite figured out stuff such as boil off rate etc. I have created 2 profiles:
- 50l brew
- 20l brew

To date i have only made 20l batches. I have used the parameters supplied by other users for the 20l model in my 20l profile. The only thing i changed was the 'Mash Tun Weight' which I set to 22kg. I will have to figure it out more from that.

Anybody else figured out beersmith parameters for the shortened malt pipe in the 50l model?
 
BierFest said:
I too have the 50l unit with the shortened malt pipe. I use beersmith and am also trying to nail down the parameters. As I've only done 3 brews to date on it I'm still figuring it out. I haven't quite figured out stuff such as boil off rate etc. I have created 2 profiles:
- 50l brew
- 20l brew

To date i have only made 20l batches. I have used the parameters supplied by other users for the 20l model in my 20l profile. The only thing i changed was the 'Mash Tun Weight' which I set to 22kg. I will have to figure it out more from that.

Anybody else figured out beersmith parameters for the shortened malt pipe in the 50l model?
Click to expand...

There is a setup profile for the 20l in the beersmith forums
 
@Bierfest and @Rowlus. Thank you for your replies, I´ve check the profiles on the beersmith forums. It seems like a work in progress I think I just have to play a little with it: it´s a great software but I still have to get used to it and check if it does the job for me to get the full version. I originally tought that the shortened malt pipe was somehow bigger than the malt pipe in the 20l version. All the sites that I´ve seen advertise the short malt pipe to make 25l batches and the 20l unit well for 20l :cross:
I think I was wrong about this. I´ll just have to use a little less water than in my previous calculations.
Anyone has any comments to share about this?
 
FiveKaiBrewing said:
What up buddy i started this thread a while ago so i guess i was one of the first guys with this machine. just buy a voltage converter man. so easy and you can brew anywhere you want.

as far as the condensation question i dont think it will be a sticky mess since when you boil you are loosing water while all sugars and stuff just stay in the wort. it should just be steam sugar wont evaporate.

good luck on your brewing this machine is really great.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, i think you replied to my pm after i wrote these questions and made up my mind on going with a voltage converter. Then i can brew inside, outside, at a friends house whatever.

Thank you for the reply about the steam venting too, i think when i brew inside i will just use the dryer vent somehow as it vents to the backside of the apartment by the woods instead of venting into the parking lot and freaking out all of my neighbors :p
 
bach said:
Yes it is SS9007 12-8

The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT

My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.

It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor
Click to expand...

According to Adapt All, the manufacturer of this particular part, Fastenal carries their line and this will probably require a special order. They fellow I spoke with at Adapt All also told me they have less than 6 in stock in the factory warehouse. One less, since I ordered it yesterday.

http://www.fastenal.com

A company called Advanced Pressure Fittings might also manufacture a similar part.

:mug:
 
I was always taught with my old propane set up to stir lots before the boil started because the wort could burn. I was wondering if it was the same for the braumeister.
 
Received my braumeister today. Still waiting on the insulation jacket and shorter maltpipe. Had my electrician buddy wire up my basement for it and we rewired the plug. I'll post some photos shortly, but wanted to ask:

1. I'm thinking about doing some mods... if I do the diptube mod, I want to be able to whirlpool the wort so I'm getting all the trub in the center. The copper tube from previous posts looked like it had some soldering or welding done to it. I'm not a plumber and I don't think I even have the tools to cut copper. Am I SOL on that particular mod?

2. For the whirlpool, it seems like I'd be better off buying a march pump and recirculating back into the kettle along the side wall to get any sort of decent whirlpool. Nobody has been able to achieve a good whirlpool using The Braumeister's built in pump, by modding the pump inlet by angling it off with a copper tube, right?
 
Received my braumeister today. Still waiting on the insulation jacket and shorter maltpipe. Had my electrician buddy wire up my basement for it and we rewired the plug. I'll post some photos shortly, but I have a couple of questions:

1. I'm thinking about doing some mods... if I do the diptube mod, I want to be able to whirlpool the wort so I'm getting all the trub in the center. The copper tube from previous posts looked like it had some soldering or welding done to it. I'm not a plumber and I don't think I even have the tools to cut copper. Am I SOL on that particular mod?

2. For the whirlpool, it seems like I'd be better off buying a march pump and recirculating back into the kettle along the side wall to get any sort of decent whirlpool. Nobody has been able to achieve a good whirlpool using The Braumeister's built in pump, by modding the pump inlet by angling it off with a copper tube, right?
 
Do not order a voltage converter. It is generally a bad idea for this device ( a large heating element) See my previous post.
Is it possible to run a breumeister off a 110 to 220 Converter?. I have no access to 220 where I live.

Thanks.
I would strongly recommend against it for a couple of reasons.

First, as is stated in the product descriptions which you linked "Caution:
(1) This voltage converter may not work properly [...] some items with heating element such as coffeemakers, espresso/capuccino makers, percolators, heating pads, toasters, toaster ovens, rice cookers, tea kettles, hot plates, cloth irons, steamers etc."

...which is exactly what the braumeister is, a large hot plate essentially. So basically these would not be guaranteed to work in the first place.

Furthermore, you would need to buy a unit that is at LEAST 2000W, since that is the power requirement of just the heating element. If they can be used continuously at 80% you are looking at needing a 3000W supply. The money you spend on this unit plus the extra power you would be using might help offset the cost of hiring an electrician to add a 220v circuit and outlet to your residence.

No dryer in your place? No way to perhaps make an extension cord?
Click to expand...
 
rawlus said:
Member FiveKaiBrewing here has been successfully using a 5000w voltage converter. It may be worth asking him about his experiences.
Click to expand...

I did, he says it works fine which is why I bought one :)
 
Soviet said:
Received my braumeister today. Still waiting on the insulation jacket and shorter maltpipe. Had my electrician buddy wire up my basement for it and we rewired the plug. I'll post some photos shortly, but I have a couple of questions:

1. I'm thinking about doing some mods... if I do the diptube mod, I want to be able to whirlpool the wort so I'm getting all the trub in the center. The copper tube from previous posts looked like it had some soldering or welding done to it. I'm not a plumber and I don't think I even have the tools to cut copper. Am I SOL on that particular mod?

2. For the whirlpool, it seems like I'd be better off buying a march pump and recirculating back into the kettle along the side wall to get any sort of decent whirlpool. Nobody has been able to achieve a good whirlpool using The Braumeister's built in pump, by modding the pump inlet by angling it off with a copper tube, right?
Click to expand...

Comon, there's gotta be SOMEONE that whirlpools in the braumeister via recirculation...
 
Soviet said:
Comon, there's gotta be SOMEONE that whirlpools in the braumeister via recirculation...
Click to expand...

I have a 50' copper immersion chiller that does great in the BM. I set the BM to manuel pump mode to circulate around the coiled copper and the temp drops very quickly. I go from boiling to pitching temp in 15 minutes.
 
rlhvegas said:
I have a 50' copper immersion chiller that does great in the BM. I set the BM to manuel pump mode to circulate around the coiled copper and the temp drops very quickly. I go from boiling to pitching temp in 15 minutes.
Click to expand...

Right, but I'm talking about whirpooling, and not by simply stirring the cooling wort, but via pump-> recirculating back into the kettle.
 
Who has a 20l and wants a 50l? I may be open to negotiating a trade. I have the short malt pipe, the jacket, and the copper lid. I will probably never use the full capacity, haven't so far. You can see my machine in previous posts.
 
beradthefish said:
Who has a 20l and wants a 50l? I may be open to negotiating a trade. I have the short malt pipe, the jacket, and the copper lid. I will probably never use the full capacity, haven't so far. You can see my machine in previous posts.
Click to expand...

I'm interested. PM me with your ideas on the trade.
 
I am happy to report another 2 successful brewdays with my 20L Braumeister.

I brewed a 10gl Saison through the 20L Braumeister by recirculating approx. 14gl H2O during the Conversion phase. It added minimal time (30min.) to the brewday and was easily managed. The downside is it really only suits low alcohol beers or beer styles that have highly attenuating yeast (Wyeast 3711).

Almost 16lbs in the 20L Maltpipe.
Saison-16lbs-10gl.jpg


10gl Saison recombined, mixed and ready to be split then boiled.
Saison-Full.jpg


Here it is chilled.
Saison-10gl-Chilled.jpg


That was a fun brewday.
 
The second brewday also produced 10gl beer but was done as 2 separate beers.
Basically once the first mash was done the wort was transferred to the kettle and the Braumeister was cleaned, refilled then run as usual for the second batch. The brews were 2 different German Wheat beers.

Mashing-In:
TGBWP-2-Braumeister.jpg


Open Fermentation 1:
TGBWP-2-Open-Ferm.jpg


Open Fermentation 2:
KW-8-Open-Ferm.jpg


This method added about another 3hrs. (mash time) to the brewday but the Braumeister made it a breeze.
 
Yambor44 said:
What's the total capacity on the 20L unit, 25L? Can you elaborate on the process?
Click to expand...

I am still tweaking the process, but it looks something like this:
An additional vessel or 2 is required for the recirculation and for half of the boil volume. A march pump would be handy, but transferring the liquids manually is possible.

Filled Braumeister with 21.5L 2 Stage Filtered water.
Preheated (in the kettle) 6.93gl (26L) for mashing at conversion temps.
Filled Braumeister with Grain, Begin Mash-In.
Added another 3L H2O to the Braumeister, 24.5L total
Begin Phase 1.
Start recirculation of the full volume (Including that from the kettle). Drain out the spigot to vessel, pump back up into the Braumeister.
Once Conversion is done, split the batch between kettle and Braumeister.
Complete the mash (Mash-out), then proceed with the boil splitting the hops between the 2 vessels.
Once boil is done recombine the 2 worts into the Braumeister and cool.
 
Getafix said:
I am still tweaking the process, but it looks something like this:
An additional vessel or 2 is required for the recirculation and for half of the boil volume. A march pump would be handy, but transferring the liquids manually is possible.

Filled Braumeister with 21.5L 2 Stage Filtered water.
Preheated (in the kettle) 6.93gl (26L) for mashing at conversion temps.
Filled Braumeister with Grain, Begin Mash-In.
Added another 3L H2O to the Braumeister, 24.5L total
Begin Phase 1.
Start recirculation of the full volume (Including that from the kettle). Drain out the spigot to vessel, pump back up into the Braumeister.
Once Conversion is done, split the batch between kettle and Braumeister.
Complete the mash (Mash-out), then proceed with the boil splitting the hops between the 2 vessels.
Once boil is done recombine the 2 worts into the Braumeister and cool.
Click to expand...


I haven't brewed on my new 50L unit yet, but when you guys program your mash schedule, do you simply program the rest temperature(s)? Is there a way to program the unit to go to a strike temperature before the grain is added (which would usually be ~15 degrees higher or so) so that it evens out at the correct temperature? If not, how long does the system take to heat the mash to the rest temp if you dough in at 150, and your rest is say 152?

Also, who here actually has the 50L? Most of the posters I've seen are citing the 20L unit...
 
Soviet said:
Is there a way to program the unit to go to a strike temperature before the grain is added (which would usually be ~15 degrees higher or so) so that it evens out at the correct temperature?
Click to expand...

The system doesn't work like that. You set the mash in (doughing in) temp whatever that is and when the temp is reached you put the grain in, mix it up, this is the mash in -stage. The temperature keeps the same until you get to phase 1, 2 etc. My system ramps up 1 degree C in 1 min 18 secs between the various phases.
 
I'm really torn between these two options for using with my Braumeister

Plate Chiller - Pros: small/portable, cools super fast; Cons: Can't see when little bits are stuck in it, nightmare to take apart and wash and put back together.

Immersion Chiller: Pros: Good surface area with 50'-70' coil, cools relatively quick. One can just hose it down to keep it clean, it gets sanitized each time it's immersed in the boil. Cons: it's bulky, probably wastes more water.

Cost seems to be pretty close when comparing a 70' coil with fittings and say a 50 plate chiller.

What's your take on it, and what do you use personally?
 

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