Easiest beer I have ever made recipe

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NTOLERANCE said:
On water,

One of the reasons I used the RO water was simply to balance out my harsh tap water.
Another was to have the water in a container to chill it, so it becomes the wort chiller, so to speak.
Finally, There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.

Chillers arent free, but if you can shill your "top up" water so to speak, you achieve nearly the same effect with little cost. RO water near me is .70 cents a gallon from the grocery stores. There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.

Well, isn't spring water along the same lines sanitization-wise, but including the minerals, etc?
 
Well, isn't spring water along the same lines sanitization-wise, but including the minerals, etc?

Yes to a degree. Obviously each spring has different water. Spring water in the stores, generally goes through some sort of treatment before bottling. Usually what they do is on the label. Ones near me go through UV treatment as I recall.
 
Another Keg of this gone, killed last nite. :drunk:

Friends had the first patio fire of the season up here, about 15 people.

8 people were adventurous to try it for the first time. Lots of trips back to the keg. :tank:
 
I plan on brewing this in a couple days, but I have one problem. My LHBS doesn't have wheat LME. I assume I can just substitute an adjusted amount of DME for that, correct?
 
I plan on brewing this in a couple days, but I have one problem. My LHBS doesn't have wheat LME. I assume I can just substitute an adjusted amount of DME for that, correct?

Yes and no. Wheat malt tastes different than barley malt, and it gives better mouthfeel and head retention. That being said, you can substitute barley malt, but the flavor won't be quite the same. It will still probably be pretty good. :)
 
I plan on brewing this in a couple days, but I have one problem. My LHBS doesn't have wheat LME. I assume I can just substitute an adjusted amount of DME for that, correct?

Are you saying to sub wheat DME for wheat LME or just any DME for wheat LME?
 
Yes and no. Wheat malt tastes different than barley malt, and it gives better mouthfeel and head retention. That being said, you can substitute barley malt, but the flavor won't be quite the same. It will still probably be pretty good. :)

Oh, sorry. I meant to specify wheat DME,not just basic.
 
So you are looking for the conversion. I think it is .8 to 1 meaning .8 pounds DME is equal to 1 pound LME. Someone else should really verify that before you count it as gospel.
 
Oh, sorry. I meant to specify wheat DME,not just basic.

This beer really doesnt conform to a style per se. I have used flaked wheat instead of the Wheat DME, only made the beer a bit cloudy, not much else different. Alcohol was lower, but this brew really gets it taste from the 2 cans of LME. My 2cents.
 
So you are looking for the conversion. I think it is .8 to 1 meaning .8 pounds DME is equal to 1 pound LME. Someone else should really verify that before you count it as gospel.

I think the rule of thumb for converting between dry malt extract and liquid malt extract is 10%, i.e., liquid is 10% heavier. I've always used 1 lb DME = 1.1 lb LME.
 
After having this beer sitting in the keg for about a month, I gotta give it to you NTOLERANCE, I can finally sit down and pleasurably drink my own beer. My dad even sat outside with me and had a tall glass to congratulate me on a job well done. My respects to you, cheers!

Beer.jpg
 
After having this beer sitting in the keg for about a month, I gotta give it to you NTOLERANCE, I can finally sit down and pleasurably drink my own beer. My dad even sat outside with me and had a tall glass to congratulate me on a job well done. My respects to you, cheers!

How long did it take you to force carb?

Primary fermentation only?
 
How long did it take you to force carb?

Primary fermentation only?

7 Days in primary fermenter and then...

3 weeks under 10 PSI, then 20 PSI for 1 week, now sitting at 7 PSI for serving.

My regulator maxes at 30, had I just left it at 30 for a while, it might have carbed faster.
 
7 Days in primary fermenter and then...

3 weeks under 10 PSI, then 20 PSI for 1 week, now sitting at 7 PSI for serving.

My regulator maxes at 30, had I just left it at 30 for a while, it might have carbed faster.

I dont know, I have run my reg up to 100 psi on this..... still took awhile. :confused::confused:
 
Don't sweat it, it's a great beer either way, totally worth the wait. The long time it takes to carb does it good anyways to get rid of the green and fruity flavors.
 
Thanks for the recipe, this will be my first EXTRACT brew. Haha, I know...sounds funny. I've been brewing smaller 3gal AG batches from the start. I just got two 6 gallon glass carboys and since I don't have the kettle to match yet, this will let me do a bigger batch with the same equipment. I know there's always partial boils, but this is the perfect opportunity to have a nice "easy" brew day and see what extract is all about...not to mention it sounds like a tasty amber wheatish brew!

Thanks for sharing, I plan to brew tomorrow night or Friday morning. I'll probably bump up the DME to make an equivalent six gallon batch, figuring on about 5.5 into the carboy...although I guess without the sediment from the malt you don't get as much trub as with all grain?

:mug:
 
Thanks for the recipe, this will be my first EXTRACT brew. Haha, I know...sounds funny. I've been brewing smaller 3gal AG batches from the start. I just got two 6 gallon glass carboys and since I don't have the kettle to match yet, this will let me do a bigger batch with the same equipment. I know there's always partial boils, but this is the perfect opportunity to have a nice "easy" brew day and see what extract is all about...not to mention it sounds like a tasty amber wheatish brew!

Thanks for sharing, I plan to brew tomorrow night or Friday morning. I'll probably bump up the DME to make an equivalent six gallon batch, figuring on about 5.5 into the carboy...although I guess without the sediment from the malt you don't get as much trub as with all grain?

:mug:

Yeah there isnt alot of trub in the bottom. Some but not alot. If youre using an auto siphon the suction intake of the siphon is usually just above the trub.:mug:
 
Will you please confirm the hope/misc addition shedule? There was a post that reccomended a change and I just want to make sure I'm making your current reccomended recipe!

Here's what I got from the original post:
Start (60): 1oz Saaz
(20 min): .5oz Saaz
(10 min) .5oz Saaz, Zest of (1) orange, 1oz coriander, 1tsp Irish moss

Thanks!
 
Will you please confirm the hope/misc addition shedule? There was a post that reccomended a change and I just want to make sure I'm making your current reccomended recipe!

Here's what I got from the original post:
Start (60): 1oz Saaz
(20 min): .5oz Saaz
(10 min) .5oz Saaz, Zest of (1) orange, 1oz coriander, 1tsp Irish moss

Thanks!

Orignally I brewed this with this hop schedule:

60 .5 Saaz
20 .5 saaz
10 .5 saaz, orange, coriander, irish moss.

That will give you about 14 IBU's. Adding a full ouce of Saaz at 60 minutes would up it to about 20 IBU's. I like it with the full ounce. Friends like it without, of course they drink BMC.:ban: Like I said, this doesnt conform to a style, Its nice to play around with the hops from time to time for me on this. Either way, it will turn out :cool:
 
What wouldn't be good with this added!! Four minutes until flameout!! It looks and smells great.

EDIT: Don't know what happened here -- I took a picture on my iPhone of the coriander, hops and orange zest but it's not showing up.
 
The brew day went well over all but I think I got carried away with the "easy"ness of this recipe and screwed up on a fundamental area of brewing.

This was my first batch using chilled water as the method for getting the wort down to pitching temperature. I followed the water guidelines from this recipe and topped up, oxygenated and then pitched the yeast. I use a fermometer (on this carboy it was a horizontal style) and my brew hauler strap was covering it up. I didn't do any calculations on the cold water additions and just assumed that adding 3+ gallons of cold water would surely bring it down to proper pitching temp. After I moved the carboy I noticed that my fermometer wasn't reading anything (scale: 38-78F). At first I thought that maybe the cold water brought it down below the lower end but I could detect some warmth from the carboy when I put my hand on it. I took a sample and it was at 84F! I put it in my fermentation chamber (refrigerator w/ controller) and am hoping that it will get it down fast enough to prevent any problems...it's been several hours at high temps though.

Lesson learned -- don't skip the basic process steps. Overall I did enjoy how easy it was to make this batch. It was just about two hours from start to finish. I just wish I would have checked that temperature first!

Has this happened to anyone else or do you typically get the wort down to the 60s just by adding the cold water?
 
The brew day went well over all but I think I got carried away with the "easy"ness of this recipe and screwed up on a fundamental area of brewing.

This was my first batch using chilled water as the method for getting the wort down to pitching temperature. I followed the water guidelines from this recipe and topped up, oxygenated and then pitched the yeast. I use a fermometer (on this carboy it was a horizontal style) and my brew hauler strap was covering it up. I didn't do any calculations on the cold water additions and just assumed that adding 3+ gallons of cold water would surely bring it down to proper pitching temp. After I moved the carboy I noticed that my fermometer wasn't reading anything (scale: 38-78F). At first I thought that maybe the cold water brought it down below the lower end but I could detect some warmth from the carboy when I put my hand on it. I took a sample and it was at 84F! I put it in my fermentation chamber (refrigerator w/ controller) and am hoping that it will get it down fast enough to prevent any problems...it's been several hours at high temps though.

Lesson learned -- don't skip the basic process steps. Overall I did enjoy how easy it was to make this batch. It was just about two hours from start to finish. I just wish I would have checked that temperature first!

Has this happened to anyone else or do you typically get the wort down to the 60s just by adding the cold water?

You likely wont get this down to the 60's with the chilled RO water. Mine is usually in the mid 70's, sometimes a bit higher.

RDWHAHB :mug:
 
NTOLERANCE said:
You likely wont get this down to the 60's with the chilled RO water.

Try brewing in Colorado in the winter!
The worst I've done was use my counter flow chiller with hose water in the winter and the temp was 48 after!
It took a whole day before I hit 60 degrees and had to put a snow jacket on the carboy in my closet next to the heater vent. I pitched at 60 anyway and it was fine.
 
I took a sample and it was at 84F!

The yeast should survive that temp. I believe over 110F is where they start to die? I'm not sure, but someone once said they were at maximal activity around 100F... of course side products would make that a beer you didn't want to drink. Wine is often fermented as high as 90F, though!

Cheers! :mug:
 
Thanks for the assurance Justibone...I wasn't too worried about the yeast getting killed off -- I'm sure they were loving the higher temps. I was more concerned about any undesirable by-products that the higher temps may have caused. I'm RDWHAHBing though...nothing I can do now. :) I just checked it this morning and it's still very active on day four. The fermenting chamber has a lovely aroma of oranges. I think it actually hit its peak activity on day 3. This is my first time with S-05 but it seems to be a powerhouse yeast! I did rehydrate it and oxygenate my wort prior to pitching too so that helped I'm sure.

I'm at the phase now where I'm trying to really nail down my processes and move from just making good beer to great beer and this "escape" in temperature control just bummed me out a little bit. It's a good lesson learned though!

However it turns out, I'm sure it will be fine and it was a fun brew day using some new ingredients and methods so thanks again for this recipe!:cross:
 
What type of LME did you use? Most that I see comes in 3.3 lbs cans, hence the 6.6 lb ( plus 1 lb dme) recipe.

Whats the color like?

Here on O`ahu LME comes in a 55 gal drum and is sold by the lb into plastic bags. You can order any amount that the guy can weigh on his scale.
 
Looking forward for having this for the 4th of July. Just finished brewing and in the primary.
Plan on a couple weeks in the secondary and then to my tap-a-draft.
 
Ok, I have a dumb question, when adding the hops do I just toss them in the brew pot or do I use a bag and remove them at the end? Also if they stay in the pot do I need to strain them out when moving to the fermenter or just let them go on in? sounds like a quick and easy brew, I just want to get it right the 1st time. I dont plan on using orange peel or corriander ect.
Thanks
 
Some people use a bag, some just throw them and strain...some don't even bother straining. I don't use a hop bag and run my wort through a strainer on the way to my carboy. This batch was unique in that all of the hops/coriander/organge peel was in the bottom of my kettle and it didn't even make it to the strainer. I usually brew all grain and have a lot more trub but this was remarkably easy in that aspect too!
 
How much orange have you all been adding? Just the shavings from one orange?

I'm gonna make this brew this weekend. I'm planning on just using 3lb of Briess Golden Light DME (or perhaps NB Organic Light) and 3lb of Briess Wheat DME instead of messing with the LME. I'm still going to use the crystal, carapils, orange, and coriander.
 
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