Another Red Ale Thread

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Just-a-Guy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2011
Messages
135
Reaction score
3
Location
ny
Hi Folks,

While Batches 1 and 2 are waiting (1 in bottles, 2 in primary), I got another FV and am planning to mix up a True Brew red ale kit this weekend. A couple of questions if you guys don't mind...

1. I got a 10 gallon pot and plan to do a full boil. Should I start with a couple of gallons, mix in the LME, and then add the rest of the water? Or should I boil the entire 5 gallons at once and then add the LME?

2. I told the local brewshop owner (nice guy) I was thinking of adding some whole leaf hops to this kit, and he suggested some Cascade, so I picked up a couple of packs. How far into the boil should I add these? And I'm assuming I will filter them out when the boil goes into the FV?

3. I haven't yet picked up a wort chiller. It's pretty darn cold here (NY). I was thinking of taking the entire brew pot, put the lid on it, and take it out onto the screen porch and leave it for an hour to cool. Is that too risky? Maybe I should wait until I can get a wort chiller?

Thanks!

Mark
 
1) A lot of people will do an early addition and a late addition. You can add some LME (and presumably your bittering hops) as soon as you start to boil. If you're doing a 60 minute boil, after something like 30-40 minutes you can add the remaining LME. Adding all of the LME at the beginning will have the tendency to give you a darker color. Depending on the style, that may not be an issue.

2) Cascades usually tend to be aroma hops and would be late additions (with say 5 minutes remaining in the boil or even at flame out). But, you can also use a lot of Cascades as your bittering hops. So it depends on what you want to do with them.

3) You'll get differing opinions on this. It'll work. But probably not as fast as you think. If you have snow to put it in that'll probably work better than just cold air. To speed it up even more you could periodically stir it. Obviously every time you pull the lid off you run the risk of getting contaminants inside. Also I know that when you boil with the lid on you run the risk of getting DMS, you could potentially get the same risk by leaving the lid on during cooling because when it is still very hot it is still producing some amount of steam.
 
I recently did a red w/specialty grains and 6# of LME on a full boil. I actually started with 5.5 gal of water plus LME to get to 6 gallons. I had to top off with 3/4 of a gallon to have 5 in the primary.

1. I added about 2# or 1/3 of the LME at the beginning of a 60 min boil along with the bittering hops. I added the remainder of the LME at 10 min left just to assure is was well mixed. The more LME you add at the beginning the more carmelization that will occure causing a darker than expected color and a greater possibility of the "extract twang". You want some LME present with your bittering hops.

2. You can add hops how you choose. The earlier they are added the more bittering they will add. If you know the AAU's of all the hops you intend to add and when you will add them, you can run the numbers through an IBU calculator to estimate how this will impact the bitterness.

3. Will your kettle fit in your stationary tub? An icewater bath would be best without a chiller. The faster you can chill your wort to pitching temp the clearer your beer will be in the end as more sediment will drop out. It is worth putting a little effort into in my opinion.
 
Thanks, BoisePorter. Much appreciated. ... Um, what's DMS?

Thanks,

Mark
 
brtisbuck - thank you. I'll have to look into the hops, I don't know the AAU's without checking, will do that and check the calculator.

If by stationary tub you mean...uh, the family bathtub? Yeah, it will fit...but it will be a beast to lug upstairs. :) I think I may just go ahead and spring for the wort chiller. I'm gonna get it anyway, may as well reduce risks.

Thanks, guys.

Mark
 
Are you trying to do this on the stovetop? Unless you have a really strong stove you may not be able to get that volume to boil. Also, be VERY CAREFUL moving 5 gallons of boiling wort. Read the threads on here about injuries. I vote wort chiller.
 
Or should I boil the entire 5 gallons at once and then add the LME?

1) Don't forget, some of the water boils off, if you do this you will most likely be left with only around 4 gallons.
Try to figure out your boiloff rate per hour and compinsate with more water at the start :)


2) Cascade might be too bitter for a red, but might make for a nice flavor or aroma hop (toss in either at flame out or with 15 to 5 minutes remaining).

3) I have moved 15 gallons up a flight of stairs and outside in CT recently to cool it (since I have an imersion chiller but needed the hose which was outside). My advice if you are going to move it outside is walk very slowly... have someone else carry the other handle. Use an oven mitt and hold the bottom if possible, and lastly, let it cool a bit by taking it off the stove top before moving it outside.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top