Review My First Brew!

So I was panicking until I saw the sticky. I thought fermentation occurred almost immediately, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Here's what I did to start my first brew - an england brown ale I'd appreciate tips along the way to make it easier next time.

I added my 2 types of DME (3lbs light dried malt extract & 2lbs amber malt dried extract) to my stock pot of warm water (~100-105 degrees), and stirred it for 20 minutes to get it to dissolve. After that, I added the specialty malts in a muslin bag (chocolate malt/crystal malt - 120L) and turned the heat up to medium high. After 20 minutes at that temp, I raised the temp to a boil.

Here's where I f'd up. I added the bittering hops (which were actually the aromatic hops - N. Brewer whole hops) and boiled for 35 minutes. After that, I added the whirfloc tablet (what exactly does that do?), and boiled another 10 mintues. Then at the very end I was to add the aromatic hops (which was actually the bittering hops (Fuggle pellets)) Since I screwed up the hop order...just how screwed up will that make my england brown ale? Is this batch a tosser?

Sanitizing was a pain in the keister. Any ideas on how to simplify that process? I dunked everything in a solution of water and bleech. Then I did it again to the fermenter prior to adding the mash. I hope it doesn't have any bleechy taste, because I did try to wipe it out as much as possible.

Also, the cooling of the mash took forever. I poured it into the fermenter and it took until 3:30am to cool to 80 degrees - at which point, I finally added the dry notingham yeast. Everything I've read said 70 degrees is when you are supposed to add it...but after 6 hours...i just wasn't gonna wait any longer. I have some cooling tubes, but forgot to sanitize them, and so I didn't use them this time...won't make that mistake next time.

Any advice/tips - besides not mixing up my hop order

A few things for next time:

I haven't done extract in a long time, so someone correct me if I'm a little off in my techniques...

As far as your steeping grains and extract go, I would add the steeping grains before your extract and hold it at 150-160 for around 30 minutes. Then, bring the water to a boil. Once you're at a boil, turn the heat off and add your extract. Once the extract is fully mixed, bring the water back to a boil.

As for your hops, no biggy. You'll still have a good beer.

When I sanitize, I use an idophor solution and put it in a spray bottle. Then I just spray everything down 10-15 minutes before I need it.

Did you try using icewater to cool your batch? If not, you really need to next time. I highly suggest some sort of wort chiller though...immersion chillers are a great way to start out. They seem expensive, but they're well worth the money when you concider the improvement to your beer and the ease of cooling.

The best change I made from my 1st brew to my 2nd one was using star san to sanitize instead of soaking in bleach or sodium percarbonate. No need to rinse, 30-60 seconds of contact time is usually enough. Put it in a spray bottle and you don't even need to make a big bucket of the stuff to soak things in. Inside a carboy or bottles it will make a lot of foam which will continue to protect them until you get around to using them.

I usually seep my specialty grains for about half an hour at 155-165F before I add any extract. Whirlfloc helps precipitate proteins and such which should result in a clearer end product.

The beauty of hops is...they all are awesome. Especially the ones you used.

I'm going to guess you'll have a dry/crisp bitterness and a mild aroma. It might actually turn out better than you imagine!

And are you using a thermometer or are you eyeballing the water activity on the different grades of heat?

I am using a chemistry thermometer. That's certainly good news on the hops! I thought I'd waited 6 months to finally brew my own batch and screwed it up royally!

I like the idea of the spray-n-done sanitizers...like the star sans...I'll definitely be sure to give them a shot next time...I'll also put the copper cooling coils to good use as well!

jdlev said:

I am using a chemistry thermometer. That's certainly good news on the hops! I thought I'd waited 6 months to finally brew my own batch and screwed it up royally!

I like the idea of the spray-n-done sanitizers...like the star sans...I'll definitely be sure to give them a shot next time...I'll also put the copper cooling coils to good use as well!

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The thing you'll learn to love about brewing, is that, no matter how much you screw up, you'll still end up with beer. It may not be the best, but most of the time, it will be very drinkable. If not, give it away. Never throw out a batch unless youre sure it's infected.

The copper cooling coils go in when there is about 15 minutes of boil time left. That way they are sanitized by the boiling wort. You don't have to sanitize them before hand. When time runs out kill the heat and turn on the chill water. Once the wort is chilled pull them out and wash off any trub clinging to them. I use a spray nozzle on a garden hose outside to do that. Let them dry and they are good to go next time.

Don't sanitize anything that is going to be IN the boil. The boil itself will take care of that. Any tools, utensils, hoses, buckets, or carboys that will come in contact with the wort after it is cooled need to be sanitized.

Good advice all around.

I'd like to emphasize that no matter what happens you'll end up with beer. And that never sucks!

The only real comments/advice I have is:

1. Definitely steep your specialty grains before adding extract. It's more energy-efficient to start from cold water once.

2. Organize your brewing space to lessen the possibility you'll mix something up or forget it. I like to lay everything out in a line on the counter, in order it goes into the kettle. If it helps, make a checklist and use a timer.

3. Whirlfloc is a kettle coagulant. It promotes the coagulation of proteins and other detritus in the kettle, so that the stuff - called break - precipitates before it gets to your fermenter. If some break material gets into your fermenter it's no big deal. But excessive break material in the fermenter leads to beer loss; you might end up a few quarts low.

4. Never touch a thing you've sanitized with your bare hands. In other words, spray it down with Star-San - the stuff is awesome - and leave it alone. Don't wipe it out, nothing.

5. Never try to sanitize something that's dirty. 'Cos you can't. Everything which touches your wort should be clean; by that I mean free of stains and soils. Everything which touches your beer should be clean and sanitized. Most brewers here on HBT prefer Oxyclean to remove stubborn soil deposits on their fermenters; just mix with hot water and soak. There are other materials, like PBW, but Oxyclean is cheaper and readily available.

Welcome to the obsessio...er...hobby! Good luck with your first brew, and do enjoy every last drop of it.

Cheers,

Bob

Wellshooter said:

The copper cooling coils go in when there is about 15 minutes of boil time left. That way they are sanitized by the boiling wort. You don't have to sanitize them before hand. When time runs out kill the heat and turn on the chill water. Once the wort is chilled pull them out and wash off any trub clinging to them. I use a spray nozzle on a garden hose outside to do that. Let them dry and they are good to go next time.

Don't sanitize anything that is going to be IN the boil. The boil itself will take care of that. Any tools, utensils, hoses, buckets, or carboys that will come in contact with the wort after it is cooled need to be sanitized.

Click to expand...

Excellent idea on the cooling coils...I'll definitely have to remember that next time!

Bob said:

Good advice all around.

I'd like to emphasize that no matter what happens you'll end up with beer. And that never sucks!

The only real comments/advice I have is:

1. Definitely steep your specialty grains before adding extract. It's more energy-efficient to start from cold water once.

2. Organize your brewing space to lessen the possibility you'll mix something up or forget it. I like to lay everything out in a line on the counter, in order it goes into the kettle. If it helps, make a checklist and use a timer.

3. Whirlfloc is a kettle coagulant. It promotes the coagulation of proteins and other detritus in the kettle, so that the stuff - called break - precipitates before it gets to your fermenter. If some break material gets into your fermenter it's no big deal. But excessive break material in the fermenter leads to beer loss; you might end up a few quarts low.

4. Never touch a thing you've sanitized with your bare hands. In other words, spray it down with Star-San - the stuff is awesome - and leave it alone. Don't wipe it out, nothing.

5. Never try to sanitize something that's dirty. 'Cos you can't. Everything which touches your wort should be clean; by that I mean free of stains and soils. Everything which touches your beer should be clean and sanitized. Most brewers here on HBT prefer Oxyclean to remove stubborn soil deposits on their fermenters; just mix with hot water and soak. There are other materials, like PBW, but Oxyclean is cheaper and readily available.

Welcome to the obsessio...er...hobby! Good luck with your first brew, and do enjoy every last drop of it.

Cheers,

Bob

Click to expand...

Hi Bob...forgive this uber newb...but what is "steeping"? (and thanks for the advice!)

steeping is when you take your specialty grains and put them in a grain bag. You then let them sit in your brew pot with the warm water around 155-165 and "steep" for 30ish minutes much like you do when you make tea but for longer. I like to take the loose end of the grain bag and tie it around the handle on my kettle this way they do not touch the bottom of the pot and won't get burned.

just realized I used kettle brew pot and pot all interchangeable in my post didn't mean to confuse anyone those are all the same to me.

pearljammin89 said:

steeping is when you take your specialty grains and put them in a grain bag. You then let them sit in your brew pot with the warm water around 155-165 and "steep" for 30ish minutes much like you do when you make tea but for longer. I like to take the loose end of the grain bag and tie it around the handle on my kettle this way they do not touch the bottom of the pot and won't get burned.

Click to expand...

I did it right then I just had no idea it was called steeping...what you described is exactly what I did

Update...the first batch is bubblin up a storm in the fermenter (and less than 48 hours in!)

I had a few more questions come to mind:

1) I've been reading about carboy's, and am not really sure what purpose they serve other than being easier to clean than plastic fermenters?

2) I've read carboys can be used for secondary fermenation. A) Why do people go through 2 rounds of fermentation, and B) Is that what most people use the carboys for?

3) I've not taken the gravity of my beer at all...how important is this and what purpose does it serve?

1) I've been reading about carboy's, and am not really sure what purpose they serve other than being easier to clean than plastic fermenters?

It's all about personal preference. I concider plastic to be easier to clean because you can get in it and scrub. I only use carboys when I plan on conditioning in the secondary for a long time (3 or more months)

2) I've read carboys can be used for secondary fermenation. A) Why do people go through 2 rounds of fermentation, and B) Is that what most people use the carboys for?

Secondary fermentation is meant as a clearing and conditioning stage for bigger beers. Some people use them on every beer, but it's a waste of time in my opinion. Letting your beer sit in the primary for 4 weeks is better, in my opinion, than using primary for 2 weeks and secondary for 2. It all depends on the beer though. Bigger beers need a lot more time to condition so they taste good, and this is best done in a carboy since they're more airtight than plastic.

3) I've not taken the gravity of my beer at all...how important is this and what purpose does it serve?

A good gravity reading is one of the most important, if not THE most important part of brewing. It tells you how much alcohol is in your beer, and when it's done fermenting. If you don't care about alcohol content, then taking a reading at the beginning isn't crucial (with extract), but the end reading is a must. You need to check readings 3-4 days apart to know if the beer is done. If it doesn't change in a few days, then it's good to bottle. If you bottle too soon, you could end up with bottle bombs.

When or if you get into all grain brewing, gravity readings are used to determine how much efficiency you're getting out of your system.

My advice is get used to doing them on a regular basis now, that way you won't forget in the future.