how long does a normal propane tank last you?

i plan on brewing tomarrow, and i have used my propane tank twice already, does it have enough in it for one more? my burner is a bayou classic with a 30psi regulator and i am brewing a 10 gallon batch in a keggle.

Pick up the tank and shake it, you should be able to get a feel for how much liquid is left in there, if it's over half full, you're golden!

I get a lot more than three brews out of a five gallon tank, but I'm running a much more conservative burner.

In the winter I am seeming to get about two batches per tank. But then I also use my tank to power a 40,000BTU burner to heat my garage when I'm working out there.

If you have a basic household scale, you should be able to roughly determine the amount left. Look for T. W. # on the collar of the tank. The number after is the tare weight. Any amount you have over this is the amount you have left.
A 20 lb tank holds 80% of 20lbs = 16lbs.
So if TW is 15lbs and total weigh is 23lbs, you have about 1/2 a tank.

i usually get 4-5 90 min boils from a 20lb tank. i use a 55k turkey fryer and heat strike and sparge water inside on the stove

i usually get 4-5 90 min boils from a 20lb tank. i use a 55k turkey fryer and heat strike and sparge water inside on the stove

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+1 I get 4 and change usually with 90min boils

I heat everything with the tank

I get 4-5 brews out of a tank I think I have a 10lb whatever a bbq comes with.
I know it's easy to say but you might want to get a 2nd tank.

1 got 8 brews (5 gallon) out of my 20 lb tank, mainly 90 minute boils. I have a good shield around my pot which helps bigtime.

I get 4-5 w/a turkey fryer setup (55K burner)

I recommend getting a second tank just in case ...

also - get tanks refilled and save $$

As suggested here, I picked up two free, empty, used tanks at my town recycling center (a.k.a. the dump).
I don't think they would really encourage that but I was discreet enough while grabbing them.

BTW, one weighed 38 lbs total once refilled, if this helps (bathroom scale).

+1 on a second tank, you'll end up making the money you invest on it back, since you can run the tank all the way down instead of trying to anticipate when it's about empty.

It seems to me that how many brews you get out of your propane is dependant on the following:

• weather (including temp and wind)
• length of boil
• boil volume
• volume and starting temp of water
• efficiency of your system (propane usage)
• how efficient you are in using your system

I have a 40 lb. propane cylinder (free from the county dump) that has lasted 5 90 minute brews so far. The level of liquid propane (as indicated by the frost line) dropped pretty quick on the first 3 brews, but the level has dropped less on the last two.

I don't know if this is somehow related to the way propane converts from a liquid to a gas in a pressurized cylinder, or that I am becoming more efficient at using the propane (I have a new system - my previous system was a stovetop).

A backup cylinder would be a good idea. Even with a 40 lb. cylinder I have a back up (on my grill), because you know that when it runs out, it'll run out in the middle of a brew.

I've never tempted fate - I refill my canister at the local U-Haul, even if it's only half empty, for insurance against running out mid boil.

I usually brew 3 batches before refilling, standard 55K Bayou turkey burner, 10psi regulator. Usually when I refill, it's exactly 1/2 full.

single hurricane burner and I get about 6 sessions out of a tank.

chriso said:

I've never tempted fate - I refill my canister at the local U-Haul, even if it's only half empty, for insurance against running out mid boil.

I usually brew 3 batches before refilling, standard 55K Bayou turkey burner, 10psi regulator. Usually when I refill, it's exactly 1/2 full.

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Getting a second tank would pay for itself in short order if they are purging unused propane from your only tank at fill time. AND save you unnecessary trip to fill it. How much is that alone worth?

Who said purge? They throw the collar onto the tank, open the valve, and let 'er rip while sitting on a digital scale. It stops filling when it hits full weight, and then they charge me for the actual gallons filled.

As far as the trip, the U-Haul is halfway between me and McDonalds, so I drive by it a few times a week.

Man, you guys are lucky, I get about 2 10-gallon batches out of a 20# tank, that includes boiling the mash water (~7.5 gallons) to remove chlorine (my water is way over-chlorinated and I believe that screwes up my mashes), about 8 gallons of sparge water (2 x 4 gallons), and a 60-minute boil (including bringing it to a boil) with about 12.5 gallons starting wort. I have a bayou classic (the square one).

You can also pour hot water down the side of the tank and tell what the propane level is by feeling where the tank gets cold.

I do five gallon batches and usually do a sixty minute boil. If it's cold or really windy I get two and a half batches out of a tank. During the summer I've done three brews on one tank with enough gas left over to at least heat my strike water on the fourth brew.

chriso said:

I've never tempted fate - I refill my canister at the local U-Haul, even if it's only half empty, for insurance against running out mid boil.

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A second tank would pay for itself pretty quickly. I run two tanks in tandem to speed up the brew process, until one tank seems to be getting light. THen I'll use that one exclusivley until it runs completely dry.

Also for the OP, if you can get your liquor tank filled with hot tap water, you'll save about 15 minutes of propane.

BierMuncher said:

Also for the OP, if you can get your liquor tank filled with hot tap water, you'll save about 15 minutes of propane.

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I dunno about using hot tap water for this, lead in my beer is not something I want...

ColoradoXJ13 said:

I dunno about using hot tap water for this, lead in my beer is not something I want...

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You need to move to civilization dude. Or somewhere they've invented lead free solder...

I'm confused.

1) What does civilization have to do w/ lead in pipes? Forgive my ignorance - there's something I'm clearly overlooking here.

2) I still don't get it. Are the U-haul dudes actually purging my tank without my knowledge? I've watched them fill it, and I didn't see anything resembling purging, except for the last step where, after he's already closed my cylinder valve, he dumps all the propane still inside of the hose out into the atmosphere. What am I missing here? It's usually $7-$8 to top off my tank, after putting 3 or so brews on it.

Sorry to be Mister Retardo Lame-o today. Clearly I still need to take my Geritol today.

chriso said:

.... What am I missing here? It's usually $7-$8 to top off my tank, after putting 3 or so brews on it.

Sorry to be Mister Retardo Lame-o today. Clearly I still need to take my Geritol today.

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Around here...it's a flat fill rate. $14.00, regardless of how full the tank is. If your place charges by the volume pumped...pay no attention to the dingleberry (that's me) behind the shower curtain.

Not another lead in the drinking water thread....

BierMuncher said:

Around here...it's a flat fill rate. $14.00, regardless of how full the tank is. If your place charges by the volume pumped...pay no attention to the dingleberry behind the shower curtain.

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Huh. That's strange. Yeah, when I fill, I get a little receipt with total gallons, and $ per gallon. Doesn't change the fact, though, that I should buy a backup tank, just in case.

I have read that a heat shield, even indoors, will help with propane efficiency. Same with clean burners. Other gas-saving ideas?

As far as the suggestion you made re: hot water, BierMuncher, I've been having grandiose delusions of building either a "hot water tank" with .... some kind of water reservoir and an electric heating element + appliance timer... OR installing a second, smaller water heater in my basement just for brewing. I am leaning towards the homemade "tank" idea because I could see integration of a whole-house water filter into the design, as well as the ability to add a "fill spout" on the front of the unit, with which I can just dispense 5 gal of pre-Campdened (we have chloramines), pre-filtered, and theoretically pre-heated water. Ideas? Feedback? (Am I getting too far OT here and need a new thread? It's still about propane efficiency, in a roundabout way!)

iamjonsharp said:

Not another lead in the drinking water thread....

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Sorry. Wasn't my intent. Can anyone give me the 10-second recap version?

iamjonsharp said:

Not another lead in the drinking water thread....

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Personally, I trust the new york times and published studies...and yes, many people live in older houses...considering that half the products coming from china have lead in them still, I am going to be using cold water from my tap for anything that is going in my mouth...

oh, and my U-haul charges by volume filled.

Really?
The Claim: Never Drink Hot Water From the Tap
By ANAHAD O’CONNOR

THE FACTS

The claim has the ring of a myth. But environmental scientists say it is real.

The reason is that hot water dissolves contaminants more quickly than cold water, and many pipes in homes contain lead that can leach into water. And lead can damage the brain and nervous system, especially in young children.

Lead is rarely found in source water, but can enter it through corroded plumbing. The Environmental Protection Agency says that older homes are more likely to have lead pipes and fixtures, but that even newer plumbing advertised as “lead-free” can still contain as much as 8 percent lead. A study published in The Journal of Environmental Health in 2002 found that tap water represented 14 to 20 percent of total lead exposure.

Scientists emphasize that the risk is small. But to minimize it, the E.P.A. says cold tap water should always be used for preparing baby formula, cooking and drinking. It also warns that boiling water does not remove lead but can actually increase its concentration. More information is at www.epa.gov/lead or (800) 424-5323 (LEAD).

THE BOTTOM LINE

Hot water from the tap should never be used for cooking or drinking.

link:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/29/health/29real.html?pagewanted=print

Good to know. My house was built in 1925, and has a combination of cast iron and copper water pipes. I've been filling my water bucket right out of the Hot water tap in the basement.

Guess what I'll be reading up on tonight??

ColoradoXJ13 said:

..THE BOTTOM LINE

Hot water from the tap should never be used for cooking or drinking.

link:...

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My house is 4 years old. All copper. Lead free solder. Glass lined water heater.

Not all hot water is created equal.

BierMuncher said:

My house is 4 years old. All copper. Lead free solder. Glass lined water heater.

Not all hot water is created equal.

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FWIW, I read something the other day that said in testing a lot of "lead free" solders were anything but lead free...
However, I have been drinking / using hot tap water my whole life, and I am sure my parents have also. Either we are immune to lead or the risk is very exaggerated (unless you live in a really old house)

As for propane usage, I brewed two 5 gallon batchs last saturday with a brand new tank and it still feels pretty heavy and I am sure it will last at least 1 more brew.
But, since I am the cautious type I will probably pick up a spare tank before the next brew day...

I don't understand why everyone is advising to buy a second tank????
I have yet to run out I and I only refill my tank once a year!!!










My tank is 1000 gallons it is used by my stove, water heater, furnace, and BBQ. Finally a plus for not having natural gas in my area!!!

My homeowners association would probably frown heavily if I installed a 1000 gallon propane tank on my deck. Maybe if I hid it under a tarp they wouldn't notice?

my converted forklift tank will get about 6 brews out of it

Brew in the basement with an aluminum pot and a converted pressure cooker for heating between mash steps. I get about 7 brews out of your standard 20 pounder. there's only one place near me that refills, but the look of their tank and coupling equipment tells me to stay at least two blocks away from that place at all times, so I exchange. I have two tanks and run one until the flame goes "poof" the second is always right there, so mid boil flameouts last less than one minute.

Rockybottom said:

...My tank is 1000 gallons...

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...pay no attention to that extra gas hose running off into the distance....

are u supposed to brew in the basement ? Is it safe to run a propane cooker in the basement ?

Do you have a vent of some kind ... what is the danger ?

Collection of carbon monoxide and, if you have a leak, propane. So basically asphixiation and explosion.

kappclark said:

...Is it safe to run a propane cooker in the basement?

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Tis a hot debate...don't get people started.

I brew nearly every weekend and started brewing in my (basement) brewshop last summer. It's a nice, constant 68 degrees, no rain, no snow, no bugs, my hot tap water is right there for brewing and washing...and I don't have to carry my fermenters very far.



Now, I have a box fan sitting snuggly in my basement window blowing out on high, and another fan at the doorway blowing in (on low) so there's a nice cross wind in my brewshop while the kettle is on.

BM,

Do you get any condensation of steam on the floor deck above (ceiling)?

DraconianHand said:

BM,

Do you get any condensation of steam on the floor deck above (ceiling)?

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None whatsoever.

With the exhaust fan in the window, there's literally a breeze in the brew shop.