Pros/Cons of going Full Electric??

Hey guys,
Searched the forum and couldn't find a specific thread that covered this topic in its entirety, so I wanted to start one. I have recently been tossing around the idea of going electric, but wanted to get a few opinions from those who use electric first. I spoke with a few people last night at my new brew club and found out there are several people looking to build a set-up too. While we were talking, others chimed in and said they heard you won't be able to get the complete carmelization as you would in a gas system. Although, last night while doing some research I came across a post of someone saying they get OVER-carmelization from the heating elements. Who to believe?!?! Secondly, I read a separate post that stated they get a metallic "burned" flavor and another post that states the person gets a tonic-like flavor profile in their brewing. So with the research I have performed so far it is looking like such:

Pros:
- Cheaper Brewing Cost vs Propane
- More efficient and better temp control
- More of an automated process

Cons:
- Possible off flavors?
- Over Carmelization?
- Expensive Start Up costs

Does anyone know if there is a life expectancy of these heating elements the way they are used for brewing? Does anyone do just electric HLT and MLT and gas BK? I currently do BIAB in a 44qt Bayou Classic on gas, so I am looking to re-vamp my entire brewing set-up! Move to something that can help me get better consistency and I feel electric is the way. Please provide any feedback and/or experiences that you feel would help me make the right decision.

Here's my .02.

Pros:
Cheaper vs. Propane
Temp control
Recipe repeatability
Really cool looking and impressive
Professional brew day

Cons:
Automating takes some of the fun of improvising out of the brew day
Expensive start up costs

Pros:
cheaper
no noxious gasses
brew inside year-round
WAY less fire hazard (assuming you wire properly)
never run out of fuel

Cons:
harder to clean kettle (can be, there are ways to make easier though)
need to have sufficient power source(s) nearby

I haven't noticed any difference in flavor, nor have fellow homebrewers. I don't do automated because I was just shooting for the pros above. I just flip switches on (two 120v elements in HLT and BK) and keep an eye on things if need be. I still mash in a cooler and do a gravity setup as well. I like the hands-on brewing approach.

For me:

Pros: Indoor brewing, all year round.

Cons: Not portable

The beer tastes about the same, to be honest. I haven't had caramelization issues or anything else.

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I haven't have a chance to check out someones set-up in person yet, only online. Definitely agree with you, Yooper, about the portability. I was talkin to fellow brewers last night about not being able to participate in brew days at off-site locations.

What is everyones HLT, MLT, and BK set-up? I am debating between keggles or Bayou Classic 20-25gallon kettles for now. Was thinking 25gallon so I could possibly produce 15 gallons at a time, if need be. So I could be prepared for any upcoming competitions, chartiy events, or house parties at any given time!

I'd say there are many advantages, and they've been stated already.

For the caramelization, I've heard that before, but I know a LOT of people who are using electric and don't have an issue.

As far as portability, I am keeping my propane burner and in the event that I want to brew elsewhere, I would be able to use my old turkey fryer or even fire my electric BK with gas. (The HLT is covered in rubber and will be built with the drain on the bottom instead of the sides so it would not be possible to heat with gas flame.)

There isn't any reason I can't brew elsewhere, but I'll have to change my equipment a small bit. No big deal.

If you really wanted to keep your large batch capabilities and still be able to brew offsite with gas, then build the system to be heated on gas as an alternative.

Chris7687 said:

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I haven't have a chance to check out someones set-up in person yet, only online. Definitely agree with you, Yooper, about the portability. I was talkin to fellow brewers last night about not being able to participate in brew days at off-site locations.

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This is ONLY true if you have a stand with mounted pumps etc. I have a eHLT and eBK plus a cooler MLT. I can take all three somewhere and brew, so long as they have two 15-20A 120v circuits (kitchen and bathroom, extension cord, done). Now, if you're 240, the person probably has a dryer hookup or stove hookup. If you use a spa-panel as your GFCI, you're good-to-go.

For those of you brewing inside, do you have exhaust fans for this? Or are you just letting the steam collect in the house?

Chris7687 said:

For those of you brewing inside, do you have exhaust fans for this? Or are you just letting the steam collect in the house?

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I brew near a window and open one on the opposite side of the room, then use a fan to encourage air exchange. I have a hood in mind, possibly build myself one and use a vortex or squirrel cage fan.

Gotcha. I couldn't leave a window open down here in Florida during the summer time! Already have a $200+ summer time energy bill as it is! Don't need to A/C the block!

Chris7687 said:

Gotcha. I couldn't leave a window open down here in Florida during the summer time! Already have a $200+ summer time energy bill as it is! Don't need to A/C the block!

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To clarify, just during the boil. There isn't much steam any other time in the process. So figure, an hour of window open.

Yes. A hood is definitely a strong suggestion when brewing indoors. The only con would have to be start up costs.


When I was looking into electric there was one post somewhere that sealed the deal. It said something to the effect that you never hear of anyone going back to gas once converted to electric...everyone always comes from gas and converts to electric. I haven't looked back.

The question with a hood is the price. The in vortex is not bad but steam hoods are around $700 on up. I just bought three 25g kettles from spike's kettles (inexpensive and heavy duty) so to do 15 gallon batches I'm going to boil off 2 to three gallons of water. Got to have a hood.

Is there a place to buy good hoods inexpensively?

rspiger said:

The question with a hood is the price. The in vortex is not bad but steam hoods are around $700 on up. I just bought three 25g kettles from spike's kettles (inexpensive and heavy duty) so to do 15 gallon batches I'm going to boil off 2 to three gallons of water. Got to have a hood.

Is there a place to buy good hoods inexpensively?

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The cheapest thing I have seen used for a hood is a plastic tote. Certainly doesnt look good but Im sure it works well. I will edit if I can find the thread it was in.

Heres the post I saw it in. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/exhaust-hood-ideas-267338/index2.html#post4443636

My hood is just various pieces of duct work attached with an inline hydroponic fan hooked to it and vented outside the house. Used the largest flared ductwork i could find and hung it over the BK. Probably cost less than $100 including the fan and have had zero steam/condensation issues.

Pros: indoor brewing, cool factor

Cons: startup costs.

To put the final nail in the scorching/carmelizing concerns, I just took 1st place with an American lite lager at the Blue Ridge Brew off in Asheville and that beer went through a hard, 90 minute boil on my electric kettle (5500watt ULWD element). If ever there was a beer that would show off scorching or any off flavors, it would be a lite lager. It was a tasty summer brew too, much better than a commercial lager. Ultra low watt density element is the key to good e-brewing.

I built my hood out of foil-backed insulation and 1x2s connected to 6" round duct with a Hydrofarm Active Air 6 inch In-Line Fan (400 CFM) currently on sale on Amazon. Then out of the fan there's a length of 6" ---> 6"-4" reducer ---> 4" semi-rigid dryer duct --> to the dryer vent with a Dryer Dock Vent Hose Quick Connect (also at Amazon). It's not 100% suction, I still have some condensation in the hood towards the end of the boil and I usually just wipe it out with a paper towel.

Picture shows a full boil.

Some guys build a hood from wood then line it with FRP panels (cheap) and silicone the seams. Then run the duct to a vortex or similar fan. Check auctions/kitchen sales as well.

Thanks for the ideas, I think wood and the plastic panels are the way for me to go. AS long as I have good air movement it should be fine

What about using your existing hood fan if brewing in the kitchen? Maybe hook some duct to it and run it to the boil kettle with a bigger hood to catch the steam.

I've had problems with caramelization of high gravity worts that are light in specialty malt (Double IPAs). It's not terrible, but it's noticeable. It only starts to become noticeable above 1.070. Over 1.090, you know it's there. Lagers I brewed were fine.

Switched back to propane for the boil, and it went away.

TJTHEBEST said:

What about using your existing hood fan if brewing in the kitchen? Maybe hook some duct to it and run it to the boil kettle with a bigger hood to catch the steam.

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The average range hood can't effectively remove the amount of steam produced by a large kettle vigorously boiling for an hour. Ideally you need 500+ CFM to do this. Most hoods are in the 200CFM range unless you have a high-end model.