Anyone running the Tower of Power?

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Goldenboy

Goldenboy

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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the Top Tier system (three burner) and plan on adding the Tower of Power with one controller to start. I'll add the other later. I'm not a DIYer, so I've decided its the best one for me for a number of reasons. Plus, I really feel comfortable with the quality of Blichmann products.

That being said, has anyone incorporated the Tower of Power into their system? If so, I'd love to hear how you like it and any tips you may have. I'm also curious how you mounted/incorporated it into your Top Tier system.

tx in advance,

Cheers

SG
 
I don't have the top tier system, but if you read through the TOP manual it says there is a utility shelf you can purchase that you can then set the TOP control panel onto. I've only used my TOP CP for one brew session so far, but it's pretty slick!
 
I just received my Power of Tower and Top Tier stand yesterday. Started to put together the Top Tier tonight and hope to put everything together this weekend. The instructions state that you can get an optional mounting bracket that will allow you to mount tower to the top tier stand. As a default, the tower comes as a free standing unit. I think the tower will be hand, because all of the plumbing is taken care of in a compact way. I can't seem to find this "optional mounting bracket" for sale anywhere. Going to give Blichmann a call tomorrow.

I'll post update to this thread as I complete the build and try it out.

I'm really excited about this system. I know lots of people say it's overpriced, but you are getting a modular, well engineered system. You can probably replicate it yourself, but it will take a lot of hours and lot of headaches. I prefer to spend my limited time on brewing, so this was a perfect solution for me.
 
Thanks, i haven't seen the optional mounting bracket (to mount the tower to the top tier) either. Would love to hear what you learn from Blichmann. I also pulled the trigger on the tower and one controller for now. Although, I plan to upgrade to two controllers in the not too distant future.
 
I just got off the phone with Northern Brewer. It turns out that the optional mounting bracket for mounting the ToP to the TT has not been released by Blichmann yet. They suggested that I just set up the ToP with the legs provided for now and then when Blichmann releases the mounting bracket, I can mount to tower. (It will just be a matter of taking off the legs, mounting bracket onto TT and then snapping ToP onto bracket). He said he believes the bracket will retail for $150. I was surprised it is going to be that much, but will have to wait and see the design to figure out if it is a complete ripoff or not.

With regards to plumbing, I'm also trying to figure out how to set up autosparge so that it can work for both mash recirculation and sparging. I think it might be one of those things that becomes more obvious once I have everything set up. Also trying to figure out how to drain to boil kettle and whether or not you can monitor this flow rate through the flow meter included on ToP.
 
I like the ability to move the tower.

image-1376379770.jpg
 
Can you explain your setup? Do you have HLT up high, MT at mid level and BK at low level?

It looks like you only have controller for MT. Do you just control sparge water temperature manually?

If you could post more pics or an explanation of your setup, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!
 
Check out the video on the Blichmann website if you haven't yet. It shows how to hook up the sparge and HLT basically using the same piping. It may only work using their proprietary autosparge...
 
Yeah I have my HLT up top and just manually raise the temp on the HLT. Then my Mash ton is in the middle. It's worked well so far. I have brewed about 5 batches with no problems. I tried the software when I was doing my initial runs and i found it a little glitchy. But maybe I didn't understand it to well so I just went back to manual.
 
Why would you need the second controller? How hard is it to keep the HLT at 168 - 170?

I've done three batches with the tower of power and I'll post pictures tomorrow to show how I plumbed mine.
 
I got my QD fittings from www.barganfittings.com. Get the stainless steel, not the cheaper plated. System works well with the "T" on the mash tun. The HLT is off during mash allowing wort to recirculate through the AutoSparge valve. When the mash is done I move the handle to the right (see hose without an end) into the brew kettle and open the valve on the HLT. Very little mess, if you remember to use the valves properly.

Still trying to work out the computer interface for step mash.

The tower is usually a foot or more away from the Mash Tun, just to keep heat away from the controller.

IMG_2385.jpg


IMG_2390.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics. Two quick questions.

1. When do you start recirc of mash?

2. When sparging, does the wort go through tower valves before entering BK? Or do you drain straight from MT outlet to BK?

Thanks!
 
dermotstratton,

Good questions, the recirculation of the mash takes place for the full mash as the temperature sensor is located in the tower. My last batch was MoreBeer's Consecration Clone and the mash maintained a constant 158 degrees as per the instructions for the beer. On the digital readout of the controller the temperature varied from 145 to 155, but the mash stayed at ~158 +/-1 or 2 degrees

The wort goes through the tower during sparge, with the pump running I could get a low flow through the mash (HLT water was to ~170 degrees) and took about 45 minutes to collect the wort.
 
Something I should have said about recirculation - after the strike water reaches temperature, I shut off the tower pump and mashed in the grain. I stir for about 5 minutes and allow to soak, then stir some more before turning on the pump and placing the controller into Auto.

Cleaning is a breeze, can't remember if I said before, just follow the instructions and your system is ready for the next batch.
 
gwfrankpsu,

so, do you get water up to temp in MT and then add grain and stir? i'm confused why you would need to shut off the tower pump? do you recirculate water only while trying to achieve necessary strike temp? (i was thinking that you must need to get allow grain bed to settle a bit before starting recirc)

i finished my top tier build this weekend and have the tower of power assembled. all that is left is to put put on solenoid valve and give her a test run next weekend. can't wait!
 
I recirculate to get to the strike temperature and then turn off the pump to add the grains (I also close the out valve on the mash tun). The mash-in for ~10 minutes allows the grains to soak in and ensures there is no clumps or air bubbles that could cause the pump to lose prime. After mash-in I open the out valve on the mash tun and turn on the pump and switch the controller to AUTO.

Toward the end of the mash when I'm raising the temperature for mash-out, I stir the grain and allow to settle before dropping wort to the brew kettle.
 
if you look at the photos in the blichmann manual, i don't believe they take off the gas supply attenuation. in other words, the thumb screw control of the gas supply.... if that were not removed, the solenoid would be coming off at a right angle (to the burner input) and your gas supply line would reach. that said, i personally had leak issues with the blichmann supply lines and replaced them before i purchased and installed the TOP. just have gotten my rig set up with the TOP and can post pics / video if anyone wants.
 
toddegg said:
if you look at the photos in the blichmann manual, i don't believe they take off the gas supply attenuation. in other words, the thumb screw control of the gas supply.... if that were not removed, the solenoid would be coming off at a right angle (to the burner input) and your gas supply line would reach. that said, i personally had leak issues with the blichmann supply lines and replaced them before i purchased and installed the TOP. just have gotten my rig set up with the TOP and can post pics / video if anyone wants.
Click to expand...

Would love to see pictures and videos of your set up. I am putting together a top tier/ TOP setup too.
 
gjabball said:
Would love to see pictures and videos of your set up. I am putting together a top tier/ TOP setup too.
Click to expand...

Here's a quick pic of my setup (current). I have gone back and forth with having both HLT & MT lower, boil kettle separate, etc. etc. I have two pumps and can easily readjust to whatever configuration I want. I also have a SS HERMS coil in the HLT as I had been doing HERMS before I got the TOP. Will try to video next brew day. Took the TOP for a test with water. Seemed to work very well & programmed with the TOP-Link v2 software was easy enough.

brewery 014sm.jpg
 
toddegg said:
Here's a quick pic of my setup (current). I have gone back and forth with having both HLT & MT lower, boil kettle separate, etc. etc. I have two pumps and can easily readjust to whatever configuration I want. I also have a SS HERMS coil in the HLT as I had been doing HERMS before I got the TOP. Will try to video next brew day. Took the TOP for a test with water. Seemed to work very well & programmed with the TOP-Link v2 software was easy enough.
Click to expand...

Looks great. Did you drill a hole in the HLT to mount the temp sensor? How did that workout? I know most people take out the thermometer and use that hole instead. What do you use the other two pumps for if you have the tower of power pump already? Thanks again for the picture!
 
I have had the TopTier for a while, and have been running a HERMS system (hence the other two quick disconnects you see on the HLT). For that I was using two pumps at various points on brew day. I did drill a hole in the kettle with a step drill for the temp probe, as I did for the herms coil. Those are the only three holes I've ever drilled thru steel of any kind, so I can tell you with beginner's confidence that it was not hard, and none leak. I drilled it because there is a plug to close it easily, it wasn't hard after my experience with the HERMS, and I have the thermometer as a backup in case something isn't working.

Pumps: At the moment with a RIMS setup, I will just alternate or have a spare pump in case of a mishap on brew day with the two pumps. One I got pretty cheap anyway. Everything is wired into the controller switches you see on the front of the tower main pole, so I didn't want to do any rewiring to remove the one pump. There are other uses - ie. recirculate the HLT, or if my mash is too dark or caramelized in any way with the RIMS, I can use the second pump to go back to HERMS (eHERMS this time). Lastly, I may go back to a level HLT & MT and/or move the BK off the stand completely, so for now the pump will just stay put. (I'm a bit indecisive and/or ADHD about the best method/mechanism for how this works, but have gotten better consistency and higher efficiency throughout my changes).

My advise from my many attempts, rearrangements, etc:.... hmmm.... the Therminator reduced a lot of time and energy for sure, the TOP works like a dream (with water so far), the switch I wired onto the front makes it so easy to turn one flow on or off - it's not too hard or expensive - definitely suggest it, get some Home Depot gas lines a little longer than the Blichmann (makes rearranging your system MUCH easier), get a second pump as a backup or to pump wort from BK thru chiller and you'll have much less hassle with re-routing tubes (you don't need a third as I have, but get a second). Finally.... take the time to think it out before you assemble (I still may have to take this all apart just to rotate the kettles due to the wheels! I have the optional mounting bracket for the TOP before it was actually released, and not sure I want to mount it on the leg it is close to in the picture).

thanks
 
toddegg said:
I have had the TopTier for a while, and have been running a HERMS system (hence the other two quick disconnects you see on the HLT). For that I was using two pumps at various points on brew day. I did drill a hole in the kettle with a step drill for the temp probe, as I did for the herms coil. Those are the only three holes I've ever drilled thru steel of any kind, so I can tell you with beginner's confidence that it was not hard, and none leak. I drilled it because there is a plug to close it easily, it wasn't hard after my experience with the HERMS, and I have the thermometer as a backup in case something isn't working.

Pumps: At the moment with a RIMS setup, I will just alternate or have a spare pump in case of a mishap on brew day with the two pumps. One I got pretty cheap anyway. Everything is wired into the controller switches you see on the front of the tower main pole, so I didn't want to do any rewiring to remove the one pump. There are other uses - ie. recirculate the HLT, or if my mash is too dark or caramelized in any way with the RIMS, I can use the second pump to go back to HERMS (eHERMS this time). Lastly, I may go back to a level HLT & MT and/or move the BK off the stand completely, so for now the pump will just stay put. (I'm a bit indecisive and/or ADHD about the best method/mechanism for how this works, but have gotten better consistency and higher efficiency throughout my changes).

My advise from my many attempts, rearrangements, etc:.... hmmm.... the Therminator reduced a lot of time and energy for sure, the TOP works like a dream (with water so far), the switch I wired onto the front makes it so easy to turn one flow on or off - it's not too hard or expensive - definitely suggest it, get some Home Depot gas lines a little longer than the Blichmann (makes rearranging your system MUCH easier), get a second pump as a backup or to pump wort from BK thru chiller and you'll have much less hassle with re-routing tubes (you don't need a third as I have, but get a second). Finally.... take the time to think it out before you assemble (I still may have to take this all apart just to rotate the kettles due to the wheels! I have the optional mounting bracket for the TOP before it was actually released, and not sure I want to mount it on the leg it is close to in the picture).

thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. That is really helpful. I wanted to drill a hole and mount the temperature sensor on the HLT. Like you, I thought it would be good to have a backup as well as it looks cool. I am interested in the bracket that mounts the TOP with the top tier. Why wouldn't you use it? My thought was it could be too close to the heat from the burners? I also like your idea of a backup pump. Anything else you would suggest? Do you like the RIMS vs the HERMS? I know there are huge debates about this but I was wondering in regards to using the Top Tier?

I appreciate your help!
 
The mounting bracket actually replaces one of the legs of the TopTier, so you kind of have to disassemble the TopTier to attach it, so I may take my time with that. If you're just starting your build - it'd be much easier to wait until you get the mounting option for the Tower of Power to fully assemble your TopTier. I doubt heat is an issue. As far as RIMS v HERMS, I don't have any experience yet with RIMS. I've always brewed with a HERMS configuration - I've yet to brew with the TOP, I just have it assembled, programmed & tested / working.

cheers
 
toddegg said:
The mounting bracket actually replaces one of the legs of the TopTier, so you kind of have to disassemble the TopTier to attach it, so I may take my time with that. If you're just starting your build - it'd be much easier to wait until you get the mounting option for the Tower of Power to fully assemble your TopTier. I doubt heat is an issue. As far as RIMS v HERMS, I don't have any experience yet with RIMS. I've always brewed with a HERMS configuration - I've yet to brew with the TOP, I just have it assembled, programmed & tested / working.

cheers
Click to expand...
I would be curious what you think when you use the RIMS. When's the next brew day? Thanks for the info.
 
i just got my TOP and got it all connected, the burner fired up on the first shot. right now my mash tun and boil kettles (both are kegs) are having couplers welded on for recirculation/ball valve in the mash tun and a sight glass in the boil kettle. i ended up fabricating some brackets to reuse the shelf that originally came with my 2 burner top tier so i'll have a spot for my laptop and module. once it's all together i'll post some pictures.
 
my next day will either be tomorrow or this weekend.
the TOP keeps things circulating briskly. i don't think caramelization will be an issue with the RIMS setup.... i think BE goes thru these processes pretty carefully before they release products (i.e.- big delay in even getting the TOP). I'll post something, maybe even a video if I get energetic. :)

cheers
 
toddegg said:
my next day will either be tomorrow or this weekend.
the TOP keeps things circulating briskly. i don't think caramelization will be an issue with the RIMS setup.... i think BE goes thru these processes pretty carefully before they release products (i.e.- big delay in even getting the TOP). I'll post something, maybe even a video if I get energetic. :)

cheers
Click to expand...

Just keep the flow high and the heat low. I had my inaugural brew on the TOP last week. Zero issues with caramelization of the mash liquor. Temperature control was as steady as I could have hoped.
 
did anyone get prompted for a driver after plugging in the communications cable? i can't get the connection between the computer and the module to show up. the green dot is lit which is supposed to indicate a connection but the dot is lit even with the cable unplugged. comm port 3 is available but then it says something like "no controller found" sadly, the retailer is of no help.
 
eastoak said:
did anyone get prompted for a driver after plugging in the communications cable? i can't get the connection between the computer and the module to show up. the green dot is lit which is supposed to indicate a connection but the dot is lit even with the cable unplugged. comm port 3 is available but then it says something like "no controller found" sadly, the retailer is of no help.
Click to expand...

Email Blichmann. They have phenomenal service and respond very quickly.
 
There is a video on youtube (and Blichmann's site) about the "Link" software. There is some sort of comm port selection in the software. If the drivers have downloaded, but you still can't connect, you might need to make sure it is setup on the right port. Just a guess.
 
dcbc said:
There is a video on youtube (and Blichmann's site) about the "Link" software. There is some sort of comm port selection in the software. If the drivers have downloaded, but you still can't connect, you might need to make sure it is setup on the right port. Just a guess.
Click to expand...

i figured it out. the drivers are very slow to load up on my XP laptop, slow enough that it seems like the computer is frozen. when plugged it into my windows 7 netbook the drivers were still slow to load but faster than the XP machine. it would be nice if the drivers were a download from their website.
 

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