Lagunitas ipa clone

Hi
This is my first non kit beer, I got all the ingredients for the lagunitas ipa clone by tony magee of lagunitas brewing

I was wondering if anyone had any tips or pointers?

I can add the recipe if u want

wranglerx16 said:

I can add the recipe if u want

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I'm not smart enough to give pointers.. but, I'd love the recipe...

Ill second that! I love Lagunitas!

I just had the lucky 13 alt or whatever its called over turkey last night

How does it compare to the recipe here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/can-you-brew-recipe-lagunitas-ipa-175370/ ?

You might pick up some pointers.

Please post if your recipe is different - thanks.

Listen to the cybi show on it. They make dead on clones and generally talk about the difficulties in producing a clone of the particular beer

let me know if you can read it, its different then the original post. i have purchased the ingredients, i went with light dried malt extract instead of pale malt. if any one else has any suggestions to make this easier let me know
thanks

wranglerx16 said:

let me know if you can read it, its different then the original post. i have purchased the ingredients, i went with light dried malt extract instead of pale malt. if any one else has any suggestions to make this easier let me know
thanks

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Tough to read but I'd love to find a clone their Sumptin' Wild Ale.

Is that in a book or a magazine?

That is the BYO recipe. 150 or 250 magazine.

I think the CYBI version is going to be closer to what is bottled now.

Now we're by the cascade it says 0 minutes.. Is that mean it will be dry hopped and added after primary fermentation ? Any ideas thanks

Zero minutes depending on how the recipe is written means at the start of the boil. So start at zero and count up to 60. But some recipes are from 60 down and if that is the case they would mean flame out. But I would think at the start of boil is what they mean.

wranglerx16 said:

Now we're by the cascade it says 0 minutes.. Is that mean it will be dry hopped and added after primary fermentation ? Any ideas thanks

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No. Normally if you're dry hopping the recipe will make it very clear.

0 minutes means you add the hop addition at the very end of the boil as you remove the pot from the heat (when your boil clock hits zero). Normally when hops or any ingredient are added at the end of the boil, the recipe will recommend that you cover the pot after turning off the burner and allow them to steep for about 20 minutes before cooling the wort.

Maybe added at the end of the boil?

Gunrunner said:

Zero minutes depending on how the recipe is written means at the start of the boil. So start at zero and count up to 60. But some recipes are from 60 down and if that is the case they would mean flame out. But I would think at the start of boil is what they mean.

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Almost all commercially printed recipes will END with 0 minutes. Cascade hops are aroma hops meaning they're added near the end so for this recipe it's most definitely saying to add at the end of the boil. If something says 60 minutes, you add when your clock reads 60 (most likely the beginning of your boil). If it says 45, add when your clock reads 45. 30 minutes, your clock reads 30:00. Very simple stuff.

Rule of thumb: I usually steep my grains with a grain bag until the water reaches about 170. I then remove the grain bag, wait for the wort to come to a boil, turn off the heat, add any LME, stir to dissolve it, and then bring the wort to a boil. I then allow it to boil for 5 minutes before adding the first hop addition. At this point I start the 60 minute clock.

Thanks I appreciate all the input, I was just confused because it has the cascade at 0 minutes then the Irish moss after for 15 minutes

I don't doubt that this will make a good beer, but consider using the CYBI recipe. Straight from the head brewer. It has almost 2 lbs of various Crystal, more than 1 oz of Centennial, and more than 1 oz of dry hopping. Those three items are going to make the 2 recipes taste different.

Ya I was thinking about the, the only problem is I already bought all the ingredients for the first kit

No sweat then, it'll still taste good I'm sure!

wranglerx16 said:

Thanks I appreciate all the input, I was just confused because it has the cascade at 0 minutes then the Irish moss after for 15 minutes

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Yeah usually recipes will group grains together, hops together, and other ingredients such as irish moss and gypsum together which is most likely why the Irish miss was listed after the cascade.

Once you get to know which hops are for bittering and which are for aroma til make more sense. Just remember that the earlier you add the hops the more they will contribute to taste an the later you add them the more they will contribute to aroma.

So would you recommend adding the Irish miss before the cascade? Or put after? 15min would add a bit more aroma

wranglerx16 said:

So would you recommend adding the Irish miss before the cascade? Or put after? 15min would add a bit more aroma

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I usually add the Irish moss to my recipes at around 30 minutes but 15 minutes is fine too. After the cascade at the end of the boil would be too late to add it. The whole bittering/aroma thing only applies to hops. The Irish moss will help clear your beer up but really won't contribute much to flavor or aroma.

Thanks all the input was very helpful, I'm going to attempt it today, any suggestions on aging in secondary before bottling? Couple weeks?

wranglerx16 said:

Thanks all the input was very helpful, I'm going to attempt it today, any suggestions on aging in secondary before bottling? Couple weeks?

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Yeah. I'd go about a week in the primary (check your readings to make sure it's done fermenting!!!) and then two weeks in the secondary.

That's what I was thinking thanks again

FWIW Lagunitas only dry hops in secondary for 4 days then cold crashes at 30 for a few days

I've been reading most dont secondary anymore..? I have it still in the bottling bucket from fermentation.. Would you recommend just bottling from there?

Started the third of december today is the 22 the fg is 1.012. I just transferred from fermenting bucket to another since I'm out of glass carboys. Thwn will transfer to bottling bucket . Should I let it sit a bit longer or go ahead and transfer back and bottle?

wranglerx16 said:

Started the third of december today is the 22 the fg is 1.012. I just transferred from fermenting bucket to another since I'm out of glass carboys. Thwn will transfer to bottling bucket . Should I let it sit a bit longer or go ahead and transfer back and bottle?

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A few more days. Three weeks.

Have you tried any samples? How does it taste?

0 minute means you add the hops once you shut off the heat and start cooling.

Ok, as long as its fine since I transferred to secondary. No rush. Ya I tried it, wasn't to bad. I guess not what I expected..

And yea I was guessing that's what Zero minutes was but I didn't want to add it after the moss

wranglerx16 said:

Ok, as long as its fine since I transferred to secondary. No rush. Ya I tried it, wasn't to bad. I guess not what I expected..

And yea I was guessing that's what Zero minutes was but I didn't want to add it after the moss

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Yeah. You can transfer to secondary as soon as you're sure that fermentation is done. That should take about a week. Then keep it in secondary for about two weeks. Or you could just keep it in primary for three weeks.

What tasted different about it?

Ok ya I had it in primary for 2.5 weeks.. I read u can skip secondary but I decided to transfer and try it. I think just the fact that it isn't carbed yet and it's so new, I'm hoping it will inprove

wranglerx16 said:

Ok ya I had it in primary for 2.5 weeks.. I read u can skip secondary but I decided to transfer and try it. I think just the fact that it isn't carbed yet and it's so new, I'm hoping it will inprove

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The main reason people use a secondary is because rumor has it that if you leave the beer on the yeast cake for too long you'll get some off flavors. Apparently, that's not true. I do it anyway because I find that my beers end up a lot clearer after secondary and I get a lot less sediment in my bottles. It's your preference but a good reason NOT to do it is that you'll lose a little bit of beer during the racking problem.

Are you tasting any noticeable off flavors or does it just taste flat/watery? By now your beer should taste pretty close to what it's supposed to. Not exactly like it but you should be able to get a general idea of the taste. After a few weeks in the bottle it will carbonate and the beer will clean up a lot.

NOISEpollution said:

The main reason people use a secondary is because rumor has it that if you leave the beer on the yeast cake for too long you'll get some off flavors. Apparently, that's not true. I do it anyway because I find that my beers end up a lot clearer after secondary and I get a lot less sediment in my bottles. It's your preference but a good reason NOT to do it is that you'll lose a little bit of beer during the racking problem.

Are you tasting any noticeable off flavors or does it just taste flat/watery? By now your beer should taste pretty close to what it's supposed to. Not exactly like it but you should be able to get a general idea of the taste. After a few weeks in the bottle it will carbonate and the beer will clean up a lot.

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its a little rough.. has a bite to it. not exactly how to word it. but more flat/watery. im gonna try and bottle it in few days or so.

thanks so much for your input.

wranglerx16 said:

its a little rough.. has a bite to it. not exactly how to word it. but more flat/watery. im gonna try and bottle it in few days or so.

thanks so much for your input.

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If it's flat then obviously that will fix itself after a couple of weeks in the bottle as it carbonates. Be sure when you prime it that you use the appropriate amount of priming sugar. Look up desired volumes of CO2 for your particular style on Google and then enter it into a priming sugar calculator. That will tell you exactly how much priming sugar to use by weight (always measure by weight). You're going to want to mix the sugar with just enough water to dissolve the sugar. Probably a cup or so. Bring that to a boil and turn off the heat when it starts to boil. Let it sit and cool then add it to your bottling bucket and siphon. You may want to very slowly stir it with your sanitized brew spoon after the siphoning process to make sure it mixes evenly but stir VERY slowly. Too hard and you'll oxidize your beer and ruin the batch. Good luck.