Sanke's vs. BrewPots

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NocturnalEMT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
175
Reaction score
3
Location
Fairfield
I am currently in the process of gathering all information and materials to begin my basement build. I am very curious how a sanke is better than a brewpot or vice versa. Don't get me wrong, the Blichmann's are rather awesome, but heavy on the wallet. My grandfather is a career welder and a well respected one at that, so the welding isn't an issue. If you had access to the resources I have (plasma cutter, welder, free labor) just have to bring the beer to enjoy with gpa, including 3 excellent conditioned Sankes for a total of $60, what would you do? Can you seriously tell me that I would go wrong is doing my build with sankes?
 
From someone who is referenced in EVERY SINGLE electric brewing thread. I can probably take that as a hint. I've been reading.
 
You don't need to go with welded. The only welded item on my current boil keggle is the TC ferrules for my sight tube. Next one I build will go weldless again.

I'd build a system using sanke kegs in a heartbeat. Provided they're large enough for the volumes you'll be making. IME, they're good for up to about 12 gallons into fermenting vessel (normal OG range). They also work just fine for 5 gallon batches.

One thing I'll also mention is you really don't need thermometers installed in any of them. I didn't install one on my current boil keggle (and don't expect to in the future either) and removed it from my current mash tun keggle (no plan on installing one in the next mash tun keggle I build either). I use a Fluke 52II thermometer, with 4" long type K sensors that can be submerged without issue for our temperature ranges. I simply drop one (or two) into the mash tun when heating the strike water (direct fire with propane), put it back in once I've doughed-in, check on it from time to time, and don't worry about it. One less thing installed on the keggle to worry about getting bumped and such. You can use a long stem, instant read thermometer (digital being preferred, just get a good one) to do a similar job. Being able to check the temp in multiple places is of more use than having a fixed spot thermometer.
 
Not necessarily cost based, but when checks and balances are considered, why wouldn't I go sanke when they are readily available, for WAAAAAYYYY cheaper, and everyone on here that uses them are pleased with the outcomes of their brews. That's all, just kind of testing the waters of the congregation here.
 
i didn't think about using just a good digital one. although the welded/stationary ones are nice for constant temperature monitoring
 
they are all 15.5 gallon sankes, I am wanting to up my batches to 10 gallon batches.

Then go for it. I've found I like going weldless for things like the ball valves (and dip tubes). For one thing, you can install a 1/2" NPT to 1/2" compression fitting directly into the ball valve (through the keggle wall) without any need for a bulkhead fitting. I've done it and it works great. Then just get/make the dip tube so that it picks up from where you want. I have the tools to make the dip tube go where I want (can bend them as needed). If you have access to a pipe bender, that can do 1/2" OD stainless pipe, then just do that.

There's tons of people on here brewing 10 gallon batches in 1/2 barrel sanke keggles (with mash tuns and such). If it wasn't a great option, you'd have tons of negative posts about doing it, or people would be warning you about it when you asked. That's not the case, at all. :D
 
i didn't think about using just a good digital one. although the welded/stationary ones are nice for constant temperature monitoring

Less useful, IME, than you think. You get the reading from ONE spot in the mash tun. Temperatures can vary across the entire mash volume. So, the reading from the bottom 1/3 of the mash tun will be different from the top 1/3, or even the other side of the mash tun (across from the thermometer). For me, all future mash tuns will be without dial thermometers installed. When I go to batch sizes that are above what fits in keggles, and are under a muti-barrel system, I'll request that the thermometer NOT be installed. With my thermometer setup, I can take a reading from the false bottom all the way up to just below the surface of the mash. IME/IMO, far more valuable information that way. Plus you can easily calibrate a quality digital unit. The normal dial thermometers you see (for our brewing level) have an adjustment screw on the back. All that does is move the face to get the reading closer. I would just save the funds from getting three of those, and use it towards a much better system. If you have the funds, get a Fluke 52II. If you want, I can PM you the link for the sensors I use on brew day. :D
 
There are only two downsides to keggles, in my opinion. One is weight, these bad boys are heavy! for cleaning and such it is a pain. If your brewery will be clean in place this is a non-issue however. #2 is cutting the hole accurately and finding a lid to fit. Since one will be a mash tun, you will need a lid, preferrably insulated. Finding one can be a pain if your hole is off as little as 1/4" or if it isn't perfectly round.
 
mbauer013 said:
There are only two downsides to keggles, in my opinion. One is weight, these bad boys are heavy! for cleaning and such it is a pain. If your brewery will be clean in place this is a non-issue however. #2 is cutting the hole accurately and finding a lid to fit. Since one will be a mash tun, you will need a lid, preferrably insulated. Finding one can be a pain if your hole is off as little as 1/4" or if it isn't perfectly round.

I don't use insulation or lids on my sankes...has worked well for the last 18 years and thousands of gallons of really good beer.

FE3D0C0C-95BC-4F82-AB4F-C75BC4DDB2B8-3902-0000054674811202.jpg
 
So...I'm gonna go with the sanke's...obviously. Your all's recommendation is go withOUT the thermos installed. If you are going to install something, what should it be. Ball lock? The sight glass? I want both.
 
does anyone have a picture of their setup to guide me. I'm not trying to sound like a newb, but a visual is always a plus for me. I'm also not the slowest person on earth either because I did my keezer myself, with minimal direction. any advice helps. thanks.
 
If 15.5 gallon is big enough I would go with the kegs. Weld less fittings are good but if you have free welding labor then go with welded. Cost or lack of having cheap access to a welder with knowledge welding stainless steel are the main reasons most go weld less.
 
^^^^does anyone have any input on the above post by goybar? That is frickin awesome from what I am seeing, ESPECIALLY for fermenters. wow, this thread is getting more and more interesting. and yes goybar, this is all about going electric.
 
I like my kettles, tri clad bottom, welded fittings, big opening without jagged hand cut edges, easy to clean out grain, not limited to 10 gallons.
 
No dip tube required. Not cutting into keg for fittings. Get just about ever last drop out of system. would be good for CIP as it will all drain out.

Chris
 
I like my kettles, tri clad bottom, welded fittings, big opening without jagged hand cut edges, easy to clean out grain, not limited to 10 gallons.

Tri-clad bottoms have been shown to be of virtually no benefit in our application. For a slow cook/simmer, yes, but not for a hard boil If anything, they retain more heat for longer, making for longer chill times. Welded fittings are 100% personal choice. A weldless fitting is more flexible, since you can easily change what's in it. Once you have a fitting welded in, it'd done (unless you go through the PITA process of removing it). Plus, you need to make larger holes for welded fittings (typically). Not sure where you've seen "jagged hand cut edges" on keggles, but mine are nice and smooth/even with nothing to cut you on. I take my time and use a good right angle grinder (with a good disc) to make my cuts. Proper tools, and knowing how to use them, is important. Actually, critical for any DIY project. 1 point for a kettle (full opening) being easier to dump out grain from. BUT, that's not really an issue for most of us.

The cost savings you can have when going with keggles, over kettles, can be significant. I could probably outfit two, or three, keggles for what you'll pay for a single kettle. Both in stainless steel, kettle at least 1mm thick (to closely match the keggle).

As for being 'limited to 10 gallons'. Well, I can get ~12 gallons out of my boil keggle, depending on the recipe. Since the largest fermenting vessel I have holds up to 13.3 gallons, that's just fine. My normal batch size is 6.75-7.25 gallons into fermenting vessel, which is no issue in the keggle. With the amount I saved going this route, it easily offsets being 'limited' to working within my current fermenting vessel capacities. IF/when I have need to make larger batches, I'll be exploring kettles (can't get kegs in full barrel batch sizes :().

BTW, if the OP does go inverted, then he can cut the opening so that it's full diameter. That eliminates the difference in dumping out a keggle mash tun...
 
Good post golddig. I could really see the inversion as a great fermenter. I actually love the idea.

No need to invert. I use mine standing normally, and just use fittings (I've either designed or created) to extract with a CO2 push. No need to modify it to give room for a dump valve, and such, that way.

That reminds me, I need to push the ESB out of a fermenting keg and clean it up. :D Got a total of 5 tall 1/4 barrel kegs to use now (for my beer batches) and about 8 1/6 for my mead batches. Plus the 50L keg. Need to give my basement brewery setup it's maiden run and see how well it does. :rockin:
 
I decided to invert, cut the bottoms and attached legs and casters to make cleaning a bit easier. I just roll them outside and rinse them with the hose. All three vessels are bottom drain, only have a pic of the boil on my phone.

image-2733342473.jpg
 
I decided to go with Kettles vs Kegs for one main reason. I like the way they look better. Nothing against using kegs, as I have seen a lot of good brew rigs use them. I personally dont like the look of a keg as a pot and since im gonna spend several hours a week looking at these while I am brewing, i want to be happy with the setup im looking at while brewing. I know it seems a little picky of a consideration, but i have found that the stuff I make tends to either look good and im happy with it and i keep it the way it is, or if its something that works great but doesnt look as nice I tend to get the urge to change it again and thus spend more money.
 
One of the things I like, and will do if I go the Sanke route, is using the keg upside down. This way you can drain from the bottom of the keg. No drilling required.

http://www.brewhardware.com/valves/137-tcsanke

Chris

I will admit up front that I am a "hater" and really don't like kegs as boiling vessels, perhaps up to now???

Ok, Now that I have that out of the way, the exception would be bottom drain, electric AND CIP FTW!

The bottom drain and CIP would eliminate the need to move the heavy kegs around...what I would really like is having the MT plumbed to a sewage pump and a dedicated line run out to the compost pile...now that would be livin!
 
What is/was your reasoning for "hating" kegs? just getting prospectives from all sides...

OK...perhaps hate is a strong word when looking back, I used the slang term "hater", FWIW just sayin.

Kegs are purpose built for commercial serving, built for the abuse of being reused thousands of times, and therefore are heavy as hell and are poorly shaped for a brewing vessel IMO with the top and bottom skirts, and an undersized top hole that makes cleaning and rinsing difficult. Yearly I brew a half keg for a club event and keg it in a half sanke, afer handling the keg, I think to myself that I would have no desire to use one as a keggle. With the top fully removed, fitted with a bottom drain, and used CIP they probably work great. For a 3v application whereby the brewer needs to set up for a brew day and then clean / rinse keggles, not as good IMO. Also, lots of kegs are beat to hell and are not as attractive as kettles, again JMO. Of course one can polish a keggle, with added labor, materials and equipment.

While I don't use keggles, I have assisted and observed people who do. Kettles are purpose built for use as a kettle, while keggles are repurposed commercial serving vessels used as a kettle. Wouldn't we all agree that a quality hand tool is one that is purpose built, and also as light as possible to accomplish the task at hand. The two major factors in selecting quality tools are ease of use, and weight.

This looks like a great application for a keggle!

I guess I just prefer kettles, found this used for about the price of a keg. Maybe it is a cost thing...If I had keggles available for cheap, and I was looking to set up a system w/ CIP and therefore wouldn't need to be moving and lifting keggles numerous times during a brew day, maybe I would use and love them as well.

kettle.jpg


These kettles look nice IMO, but are $100 shipped for 60 qt. OK flames on for me suggesting a cheap chinese kettle...lol...over a manly keggle. Oh and FWIW, I am considered a mans man by my peers, not a weakling, have the pics of two cord hand split firewood. JMO and cheers and happy brewing whatever you may choose to boil your wort...Happy and healthy new year to all:mug:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-60-QT-Q.../200869990241?pt=Cookware&hash=item2ec4c8cf61

OK, 80 qt. w/ lid only $113 shipped...aint it purty...haha
KGrHqJHJC4E-rzmCfcBP27VLR4Q60_57_zps72b06770.jpg
 
Jhappy new year to you as well. I am finding it very difficult, just looking at the Blichmann's, to not just go ahead and pull the trigger on them. Saves me the time from having to deal with kegs, even with the resources I have available. I have the cash, just feel like I could do the kegs and put the money into something else. I don't know what to do. They really are that much nicer.
 
Here is the setup I use, nothing really fancy. The HLT is a hybrid propane/electric build that is kind of hard to see in the pictures.

The boil kettle is Golddiggie's pot that I bought off him a year or so ago.. love that thing. It is 15 gallons of boil over proof goodness. In fact the setup was inspired by watching him and his Mike brew a couple beers.


Whatever you buy be it a plain kettle or keggle, just be prepared to spend about double on the fittings to make the setup functional and user friendly. You start with a unit to hold liquids, then you add fittings, valves, dip tubes, false bottoms, sight glasses, HERMS coils, quick disconnects, silicone tubing, and so on and so on. :mug:

Having your buddies over to enjoy your beer is quite priceless.

photo 2.jpg


photo 1.jpg
 
I prefer a keggle for many of the reasons people don't. I think a cleaned up keggle looks cool and every one is unique. They are heavy but heavy is a plus when you want a pot that will last forever. I had a thin wall Chinese made pot that I gifted to a friend after the first use. When I set it down on it's corner it put a dent in it the first day. The keggle handles in the rings are placed up high and convenient. The ring on the bottom of the keggle raises the bottom to allow better combustion when set on a Banjo burner. The dish bottom is also nice as I can drain the keggle 100% with the dip tube. Keggles can be found for half what a Chinese pot cost but hard to obtain legally. If you can get them and have free welding I would not hesitate. Unless the weight is an issue you will not regret keggles.
 
Another option that hasnt been mentioned is Stout tanks. They have the bottom drain on their mash tuns and are custom made to what you want. About the same price as a blichmann but I ended up going with these. Ill be getting them here next month. Plus they come with all tri clover clamps and valves which is quick, easy, and sanitary
 
kosmokramer said:
A closer shot

Nice setup! Trying to source a NOT OWNED BY ANY MAJOR COMPANY keg for my HLT now. Hard to come by, legally of course.
 
I bought all mine off cl, buying and selling different thing I ended up actually making 10 bucks and getting the kegs for free
 
Back
Top