American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

I peeked in the IPA today just to be curious.





What the heck is going on? Did aliens abducted my yeast?

i pulled a sample after this has been on the gas for almost a week, it taste great but it is a lot lighter than the pictures others have posted. it also has some chill haze that im hoping will wear off soon.

jamie3 said:

I peeked in the IPA today just to be curious.

What the heck is going on? Did aliens abducted my yeast?

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my wheat ale looks similar after a week in primary. its my first beer so i figured it was just normal. interested to see what the verdict is!

I got my first somewhat-clean sample of this today.. I have had it on gas about a week now, and have pulled a 1/2cup measure or so each day to get the skank out of the bottom of the keg and see how it's doing (I'm a pretty new brewer - gotta experience everything, y'know? ) and in that week it's gotten itself to being one madman of a brew. This, folks, is one serious beer. It's not nearly clear yet, but with my questionable process I'm not surprised. I hit a big efficiency and attenuated well with the 22g of Nottingham I (over)pitched, and wound up with a 7.5% ABV beer. Can't imagine how good this is going to be after it's been cooling for a couple weeks and had time to get itself into proper form. I bottled off four bombers, too, and I think I'll stash them 'til Independence Day to see what happens. I may just be on my third keg of the stuff by then... So it'll be nice to compare "keg-fresh" to "finely conditioned" and see how they compare.

Thanks again, Yoop.

i found out my thermometer was wrong when i brewed this so i mashed at like 145 ish, it still taste great though.

Adding this one to the brewing schedule. It's a few brews out, but I love DFH60, and this one seems super popular. Thanks for the recipe, Yooper.....

I cant seem to take my nose out of the bowl of Amarillo and Simcoe... they smell so good together! I cannot wait for this brew!

ill be brewing this tomorrow! the hops smell terrific

If this has already been asked fogive me, but the dryhopping is a little confusing. The all-grain recipe says to add warrior for the first 25 minutes a few pellets at a time. But the extract recipe says to add half the warrior at 60 mins and the other half a few pellets at a time until 35 mins left in boil. Why is the hopping schedule different for each process?

snail said:

If this has already been asked forgive me, but the dry hopping is a little confusing. The all-grain recipe says to add warrior for the first 25 minutes a few pellets at a time. But the extract recipe says to add half the warrior at 60 mins and the other half a few pellets at a time until 35 mins left in boil. Why is the hopping schedule different for each process?

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1. This isn't dry hopping, its... wet hopping during boil. Dry hopping is after its cooled.
2. Hopping schedule, its close enough. DFH does continuous add to the 35 min mark, I think. Why different? I don't know. I don't think it matters. Comments?

Raymond
who still hasn't brewed this...

sorry i wrote that wrong. i didn't mean dry hopping....
I think it would matter though since there is a bigger amount going in right at the beginning of the boil. Wouldn't it give you more bitterness rather then adding a little at a time.

snail said:

If this has already been asked fogive me, but the dryhopping is a little confusing. The all-grain recipe says to add warrior for the first 25 minutes a few pellets at a time. But the extract recipe says to add half the warrior at 60 mins and the other half a few pellets at a time until 35 mins left in boil. Why is the hopping schedule different for each process?

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I noticed the difference also. I have made this four times now and have always added half the warrior at 60 minutes and then started the continuous hopping at about 30. One would probably never exactly repeat the continuous hopping twice anyway. I just add a pinch now and again and try to make sure I have a reasonable portion left for the last five minutes.

It has been great everytime!

I was just confused about adding half the warrior right in the beginning or not since one version had it and the other didn't.

I made it by adding .75oz warrior hops continually for the first 25 and it worked great!!!

Brewing this one right now, my grains are steeping and I'm getting ready to plant my butt on a lawn chair on the deck and drink a brew and throw hops in the pot

Brewshop was all out of pacman so I'm using Wyest 1056 for this one and figured I'd try making it with Amber malt instead of light and upped the steeping grains 1/4 of a pound just to see what happens

Made this today. My OG was only 1.040-ish. I'm hoping that's just because the top off water hadn't mixed in yet & I took my sample from the very top of the carboy. I did the extract version with the Pacman.

I couldn't resist and cracked a bottle of this last night even though it is nowhere near carbonated. And wow! during bottling the simco hops had taken over and it smelt and tasted really piney. After only a week in the bottles it developed a great fruity, almost grapefruit nose and taste. Defenitly going to put the all grin version of this on next

made my second 5gal batch of this last weekend. the first batch lasted less than two weeks. thanks again yooper!

-e

i made the extract version of this and still cant get the FG past 1.040.

I've tried numerous things

- shaking the primary
- adding a new yeast packet of safale-05
- transferred to another primary and added nottingham

nothing i do will make this beer go past 1.040

did i screw something up?

Just built my 1st keggle, just did this clone 3 months ago and it was AMAZING, my best batch so far although I have only done 13 or so. Anyways, I am going to do my first ten gallon batch. Maybe this is a dumb question....... do I just double everything? Also is Rahr 2-Row Pale from northern brewer ok for this? It seems like the only 2 row they have. Is it U.S.? Also what is the best specialty grain to use for this, Northern Brewer has a "crisp amber malt" That ok?

Beau815 said:

Just built my 1st keggle, just did this clone 3 months ago and it was AMAZING, my best batch so far although I have only done 13 or so. Anyways, I am going to do my first ten gallon batch. Maybe this is a dumb question....... do I just double everything? Also is Rahr 2-Row Pale from northern brewer ok for this? It seems like the only 2 row they have. Is it U.S.?

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Yes, Rahr is fine, and just doubling is fine. There is a slight difference in hops utlization, but not really enough to worry about.

Here's my 10 gallon batch recipe, doing a 12.5 gallon boil:

28 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 97.39 %
12.0 oz Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 2.61 %

1.50 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.20 %]
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %]

1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

I am thinking of buying the ingredients next week.

I dont need to double the amber malt? 12 oz is ok? can i use the whole lb? Or i will have to toss it. Looks like extra 2 lbs of pale malt after doubling it? Another question is that brew calculator shows i need about 16.79 gallons. Ive never done 10 gal batches but i dont think im gonna lose almost 7 gallons with mash and trub am I? I only have two 5 gal carboys so having too much is going to result in a drain pour. Or more likely a lawn pour. Although i think i have liters written down and the calculator says quarts. ill try 8 gal mash/8 gal sparge. I wonder if 28 lbs of grain and 8 gals of water is going to fit in my 10 gal mash cooler???? seems a bit impossible. Anyone know?

Beau815 said:

I dont need to double the amber malt? 12 oz is ok? can i use the whole lb? Or i will have to toss it. Looks like extra 2 lbs of pale malt after doubling it? Another question is that brew calculator shows i need about 16.79 gallons. Ive never done 10 gal batches but i dont think im gonna lose almost 7 gallons with mash and trub am I? I only have two 5 gal carboys so having too much is going to result in a drain pour. Or more likely a lawn pour. Although i think i have liters written down and the calculator says quarts. ill try 8 gal mash/8 gal sparge. I wonder if 28 lbs of grain and 8 gals of water is going to fit in my 10 gal mash cooler???? seems a bit impossible. Anyone know?

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http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

Scroll down to "Can I Mash It?"

Doesn't look good for a 10gal cooler. :/

I can't do this recipe in a 10 gallon batch in my 10 gallon round Igloo cooler with false bottom. It just doesn't quite fit.

The reason there is two more pounds of grain in my 10 gallon recipe is simply because my efficiency goes down in larger batches. If yours doesn't, a simple doubling will do. I did just double the amber malt, though. That's fine. Amber malt is very strong flavored, and noticeable. I've never done this recipe (the 5 gallon version) with more than 6 ounces of amber malt and 13 pounds of 2-row.

ahh ok ok.... hmm maybe im gonna end up tweaking it for some weird 8 gallon batch... i would not mind splitting the mashes and doing two 14 pounds of grain mashes. Would that be ok? I know id have to mash for 2 hours instead of one but thats not a big deal. Is it ok for the 1st wort to sit there an hour while i mash the other 14 lbs?

Question moved.

This thread is already 55 pages long so this comment is probably not necessary for anyone still sitting on the fence, but this is a great recipe. Brewed up an all-grain version exactly as originally written with Pacman and Maris Otter and while I wouldn't say that mine was a clone of Dogfish 60 it definitely is in the same lineage/flavor profile and to my palette the homebrew actually tastes better.

Big tip of the hat to YooperBrew.

chrispykid said:

This thread is already 55 pages long so this comment is probably not necessary for anyone still sitting on the fence, but this is a great recipe. Brewed up an all-grain version exactly as originally written with Pacman and Maris Otter and while I wouldn't say that mine was a clone of Dogfish 60 it definitely is in the same lineage/flavor profile and to my palette the homebrew actually tastes better.

Big tip of the hat to YooperBrew.

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I agree. My keg of this was kicked a couple weeks ago, and it kept getting better right down to the last glass. I finally picked up a sixer of the real deal before the end of the keg, and the homebrew was superior, IMHO. The hops were more present, particularly in aroma. I bottled off a few bombers for portability, and have one left.. Saving for a special occasion. =)

how do you delete a post? it says edit/delete but no delete button?

I agree, this is the most craft beer tasting homebrew that I have made. No one answered on if I can just do 2 mashes one after another for th 28 lbs so ill just go ahead and try it. Hope I dont waste the $ cuz im on a tight budget and had to dave up the 90 bucks for my 1st 10 gal batch.

Definitely my best batch thus far! I used Maris Otter as my base, as I had it available. Although I used Pacman yeast, it did not seem to dry out quite as much. I went from 1.072 to 1.022. This may be due to the Maris Otter, not sure... Anyway, definitely tastes more like a "professionally brewed" beer than any of my others. Love love love it. Even after only 2 weeks in the bottle, it was excellent. No funny flavors...excessive esters, phenolics, nothing. Just awesome.

Thanks so much, Yooper!

Just tried this tonight... The first couple pints were cloudy, but it's amazing.

Glad you're enjoying it! I just made it again myself, and put it on tap yesterday. I just love the amarillo/simcoe mix!

I just picked up ingredients to do a wheat pale ale with Amarillo/simcoe. I think it'll be a good summer beer.

Can I mash twice? Anyone? Is it ok to let first runnings sit for an hour while i fit the other 14 lbs into my mash tun?

Beau815 said:

Can I mash twice? Anyone? Is it ok to let first runnings sit for an hour while i fit the other 14 lbs into my mash tun?

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I don't know. I've never tried it. I would guess it would be better to bring those first runnings up to a boil first, then let it sit. But I don't know that for a fact.

ok good idea, ill try it out

I have this one sitting in primary right now and it will be going to secondary either sometime this week or next weekend depending on when I have time to brew my next batch. I used Amber DME instead of light DME, and otherwise I followed the recipe as directed. Now, I am planning on brewing the same day I rack this one to secondary to fill up my primary, and the next batch of beer I am brewing will leave me with an extra 1/2oz of golding loose leaf hops. I don't have a vacuum sealer to seal up the extra goldings so I was thinking of tossing them into the secondary for the 60 min DFH clone along with the rest of the normal dry hopping hops.

I realize this will change the final taste, but I'm looking for opinions on whether or not this would be a good change or a bad change? There are no golding anywhere in this recipe so I'm not sure if tossing them in to dry hop would be a good idea or not. Thoughts?

@dummkauf:
It's really tempting to do this. IMHO, Ziplock them and put them in the freezer for a different brew. I must be the worst person for "evening out" my recipes. I buy in ounces and used to use everything because I don't want waste. I am tired of "OK" beer. I am attempting to actually follow the recipe these days.

Raymond in Portsmouth NH

+1 i still have the 1/2 oz of warrior i believe it was. ziplocked it and its in freezer for future brews