Going AG: Mash Tun Cooler Questions

So, I want to make the leap and go All Grain. In fact I think it might be easier than what I'm doing now with PM after dropping the coin on the specialized equipment. A few of questions:

• I assume I should just got for the 10g cooler.
• Will I benefit from getting the "commercial grade" cooler?
• Do I need a matching 10 gallon cooler the hot water tank? Or can I scrape by sparging from a 5gallon tank?
• Best place to get a cooler for the best price?
• Tips on a cheap/efficient sprayer to sparge with?

Once I get this sorted and get a immersion chiller (make my own? or take my brew kettle in to my lhbs and have them make one?) I'll be going AG. Really excited. Thanks a lot in advance.

Also, I have noticed that lots of people use the ss braiding. If cost wasn't an object (it is...) would you OBVIOUSLY go with a false bottom? Or does the braiding do the job just as well for less?

well, are you planning to batch sparge, or fly sparge?
with a batch sparge the SS braid is fine, and you don't use a sparge arm to sprinkle water in.
I"ve never seen a difference between 'regular and commercial' coolers. What you'll be buying is a 5 or 10 gallon water cooler meant for a construction site. It'll be insulated well.

I've yet to need a 10 gallon MLT. All my 1.060 OG brews fit in a 5 gallon cooler.

I use a 7 gallon stock pot for hot water. it has a ball valve that i just open so it drains into the MLT.

hope these answers help.

I use a SS braid and it works fine for me, and for me it was an issue of KISS, when and if its not simple any more then I know I'm getting too complicated. I batch sparge, so it works perfectly fine for me.
Some times you may need more than 5 gallons depending, but if you got other pots you can heat water up with and add it if needed you can always work around that issue.
I use a 60qt Ice cube for my mash tun, just be certain that you can fit the biggest grain bill that you can imagine you want, to 10 gallons at least.
I picked mine up at Walmart, best price I can get here.
Best of luck, and going all grain made a big difference in my beer, almost as big as fermentation temperature control.

1 - yes, go for the 10g
2 - not familiar with the commercial grade one (are we talking about circular water coolers? if so, just get the regular one)
3 - use whatever you want for the HLT, it definitely doesn't have to be matching. for 5 gallon batches, i usually start with 9 or so gallons in my HLT. for dough in, i normally use around 3-4 gallons, then batch sparge with 2.25 two times.. of course the amount of grain and desired gravity will dictate how much you actually use. anyway, my point is you'll probably need something with around 10g of capacity for the HLT if you don't want to have to add in water and reheat it. are you going electric by the way?
4 - not sure who has the best price on those coolers... HD for some, lowes for others, walmart for some... just depends.
5 - personally, i'd recommend batch sparging, it's really easy and you can get good efficiency with it. i had a few hiccups with my first few AGs getting good efficiency, but since i've been pretty consistent around 75, which is fine with me.
6 - make your own immersion chiller, plenty of tutorials around here, easy and a little cheaper than they can be bought (usually).
7 - i use a copper manifold, i didn't solder anything, it works awesome, but i had some copper laying around and i'm sure making the braid is cheaper and a little easier since you don't have to cut a bunch of slots in it like you do with copper. i'd go the DIY route, those false bottoms can be pricey and if you make one right, it'll do just as good a job.

AG is a blast, good luck with it!

1. 10g at least!
2. No, or marginally at best.
3. No. It looks nice, but rarely will you sparge with more than 5g. Unless you try to make a 10 gallon batch in there.
4. Walmart probably. I live in Canada though, so I might not be much help.
5. I batch sparge, that's super cheap!

Make your own IC. I bought one and it was stupid. There's no need because they are so easy to make.

SS Braiding is what I use, but I batch sparge. False bottom is better for fly sparging in general (less propensity for 'channeling' because the entire area can drain freely). I also use a 15 g square Igloo cooler that cannot fit a false bottom.

This is why I love HBT. Awesome! Thanks for the answers guys. Very helpful.

Don't forget to post some pictures.

MeatyPortion said:

Don't forget to post some pictures.

Click to expand...

I will indeed. Got a new iPhone, so i really have no excuse for not taking pictures. My next batch is going to be another PM, but I'm adding a yeast starter and making a stir plate as well as making my immersion chiller. Last batch I added in temp control to fermentation.

Then I expect the next batch will be all grain where I build my mash tun and HLT.

I like adding a little something new to the equation each step so I get comfortable with one or two new techniques instead of being overwhelmed by a bunch of new stuff.

Awesome. I dig seeing how each person puts their MLT together.

I am getting a MT going and after looking at the copper, PVC, then running across the mesh idea...I am going with the mesh. So easy and if it doesn't work well, I can always change it to the copper.

I was just reading this thread to find out if the mesh is not as good, I haven't seen anyone complaining about the idea, so here I go.

Good luck, and where is some pics?

I've got two (count 'em, just two!) partials under my belt, and even though neither of them are bottled yet, I already built a mash tun. I followed the directions here: BrewTech: Copper Grain Filter for Igloo Cooler Mash Tun

Whole thing cost me under $50. $20 for the cooler at Target, and about $27 for the spigot assembly, the copper pipe (a 5' length) and tees/elbows. Having the square cooler makes building a copper manifold a LOT easier than doing something in a circle (only real option being a braid or false bottom?)

I may rebuild the manifold. I followed the directions and punched holes in there as opposed to slots - and now that I look at it, I see plenty of opportunity for this getting stuck. Might try adding an extra length on there too.

Way to go ubermick!
I on the other hand have been brewing over five years (still trying to figure it out though) and have only done two or so All Grain brews. So we are in the same boat pretty much sounds like. It was a pain I was using a handheld wire strainer sparging with who knows what the temp of the water was. I am going to try and control more of my techniques to get better results.


I listed all the copper parts with a YouTube build I found, then ran across that mesh idea. so much easier and cheaper (if it works). I am going with a longer mesh and if it clogs I figure reach in and stretch it a bit. If it becomes a pain, I will build the copper setup and only be out ten bucks.

For your original post json2001:
Make your own chiller, I paid for mine long ago, and he made it right in front of me with a 5 gallon syrup tank (keg) for the mold. Two peices of syphoning hose with a ftting that would fit my outside water hose...cha ching twice the price I could have done it for.

I didn't put this in the original post (didn't want to show my newbness). I have remodeled the kitchen with home brewing in mind. I have a deep sink with a long faucet that detaches and can move my water pretty far. Now I have slow water on the hot side and am thinking to put in an instant electric heater just for that faucet and the dishwasher. The faucet has a sparging setting that works well, and I believe that you can adjust the temp of the water on the electric heater. Can anyone tell me the drawbacks of running a tap water sparge?