I am starting a RIMs build. My pics will follow shortly. I am not using a heat stick. I am recircing though an electric turkey fryer which will be on all the time, but will have a temperature control - thermostat style.
Nate's RIMs build - the brew throne
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The brew throne. From each side:
Curious to see more, just got my first march pump and soon I'll be collection RIMS parts.
I feel like RIMS is the lightsaber of homebrewers. No instruction manual, no parts list, just word of mouth and your personal skill set.
I feel like RIMS is the lightsaber of homebrewers. No instruction manual, no parts list, just word of mouth and your personal skill set.
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building the bottom
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more pics of the build
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Getting the bottom put together
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checking out the fit
with the removable bottom pump assembly
with the removable bottom pump assembly
No one is commenting (yet), but I'm watching this thread.
I see your pump, your temp gauge. I don't see the heating element or at least wires for it. Also, I see what appears to be to outputs. Why two? Is the second to drain the tube when you're done?
I haven't built my RIMS yet, so my questions are newb questions.
P.S. Your brew in a bag thread got me started in that method. My efficiency is at 50%, so I've got some room for improvement.
I see your pump, your temp gauge. I don't see the heating element or at least wires for it. Also, I see what appears to be to outputs. Why two? Is the second to drain the tube when you're done?
I haven't built my RIMS yet, so my questions are newb questions.
P.S. Your brew in a bag thread got me started in that method. My efficiency is at 50%, so I've got some room for improvement.
Cpt_Kirks
Well-Known Member
OK, now I'm curious...
hippielink
Member
I'm in the middle of my RIMS build. It's a real learning experience. Will post pics when I'm done. Good luck with your build!
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The heating element is the black "pot" you see on the stand. it's an electric turkey fryer with the heating element in the bottom. I figure its a lot like the heat stick that some people build but more like the "e-kettle" that people do. Its nice because i can control the out put to the heating element to the fryer with its built in thermostat. I am hoping that it controls the temp a little better, rather than just on/off like most systems. I will use a screen to keep the grains off the element to prevent scorching.
As far as the outlet of the pump goes the top will be the supply to either the mash/lauter ton or the boil kettle. The bottom is just an air release to allow the pump to prime via gravity. I'll open the inlet, than crack the bottom valve until i get flow - voila - instant prime. Close the outlet of the pump and you hold prime.
As far as the outlet of the pump goes the top will be the supply to either the mash/lauter ton or the boil kettle. The bottom is just an air release to allow the pump to prime via gravity. I'll open the inlet, than crack the bottom valve until i get flow - voila - instant prime. Close the outlet of the pump and you hold prime.
No one is commenting (yet), but I'm watching this thread.
I see your pump, your temp gauge. I don't see the heating element or at least wires for it. Also, I see what appears to be to outputs. Why two? Is the second to drain the tube when you're done?
I haven't built my RIMS yet, so my questions are newb questions.
P.S. Your brew in a bag thread got me started in that method. My efficiency is at 50%, so I've got some room for improvement.
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holding those hi temp tubes
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Sorry, for the lack-luster pics in the beginning with the wood stand - i have a vision in my head.
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P.S. Your brew in a bag thread got me started in that method. My efficiency is at 50%, so I've got some room for improvement.
A couple of things i learned since that post:
- Use a lot of sparge water. Use as much water and collect as much wort as you can fit in the vessel your boiling in (or as much you feel comfortable with)
- I try to keep my temps a little lower - i like my beers a little thinner with more alcohol rather than fuller in body. Plus i think it gives me a couple more degrees buffer on the high side in case things get out of control - that way i don't accidentally stop the conversion.
- I have been going a little longer with my mashes to get all the starch converted.
- Don't let the grains get dry between sparges/straining - it will create some off flavors.
Scut_Monkey
Well-Known Member
I like the hose holder idea. Curious to see how you are going to control the temp with the turkey fryer pot. Cool throne.
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Mash/lauter ton from turkey fryer
the screen i cut myself from hardware store
The fryer already had a drain with a valve and threaded port. Installed SS reducer and coupling from bargain fittings and the PS quick disconnects from N Brewer.
the screen i cut myself from hardware store
The fryer already had a drain with a valve and threaded port. Installed SS reducer and coupling from bargain fittings and the PS quick disconnects from N Brewer.
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Making and HLT from my 5 gal SS stock pot
water check
with quick connect from Northern Brewer
water check
with quick connect from Northern Brewer
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sparge ring
dry fitting the pieces
dry fitting the pieces
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Soldering hte sparge ring.
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Feel free to coment/criticize
Bigscience
Well-Known Member
I always wondered why I see people put a coupler on the pump and then a male barb rather than using a female threaded barb.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17422/102353/Stainless-_1_2%22_FPT_x_1_2%22_Barb
Like the build so far though.
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Good idea. I bought my stuff through bargain fittings and i dont remeber seeing that.
are you worried about not being able to clean that copper ring out? When you first start circulating, grain particles will be flowing through the pump, rims tube, and that copper sprinkler thing. Seems like the particles might get stuck in there and you won't be able to get them out.
Let me just see if I have the logistics down...
MLT: Electric turkey fryer being heated by a 1650-1800W heating element underneath the false bottom?
HLT is not apparent yet, but I would assume more electric from your wood stand OR that you will go no sparge.
BK is also not apparent yet, but same with the electric...
2 tier stand with a single pump or perhaps a single tier for a brutus 20 style.
Are you worried about the dead space underneath the false bottom? That is probably about 20% of your mash volume by the looks of it. I also wonder why the sparge ring for the mash recirculation. It also seems like you are taking the coldest water in the pot (the bottom) and placing it away from the element by recirculating.
Maybe I am just really confused.
MLT: Electric turkey fryer being heated by a 1650-1800W heating element underneath the false bottom?
HLT is not apparent yet, but I would assume more electric from your wood stand OR that you will go no sparge.
BK is also not apparent yet, but same with the electric...
2 tier stand with a single pump or perhaps a single tier for a brutus 20 style.
Are you worried about the dead space underneath the false bottom? That is probably about 20% of your mash volume by the looks of it. I also wonder why the sparge ring for the mash recirculation. It also seems like you are taking the coldest water in the pot (the bottom) and placing it away from the element by recirculating.
Maybe I am just really confused.
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Good question walker. When i use the turkey fryer i ALWAYS use a great big straining bag. So, my mashtun basicall has the element in the bottom, the screen is just added protection to keep the bag and grain from direct contact with the heating element. Having both the screen and bag does a pretty good job of keeping MOST of the paticulates out of the piping. I plan to "flush" the system with boiling water after recircing.
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dker,
I'll post a pic tomorrow, its basically set up.
I'll post a pic tomorrow, its basically set up.
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
When I read 'brew throne', i had this picture in my head of a brew stand built around a La-Z-Boy, so you could sit there, drink homebrew and still reach all the controls without getting up.
moosetav
Well-Known Member
When I read 'brew throne', i had this picture in my head of a brew stand built around a La-Z-Boy, so you could sit there, drink homebrew and still reach all the controls without getting up.
ditto.....it must be done:rockin:
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Briliant!
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fill line for mash tun
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Fitting for the sparge ring
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
Having started with and still use Masterbuilt turkey fryers for ~2 gallon mini-mashes...a couple of comments.
You won't achieve anything close to even heat distribution with the heating element on the bottom and no flow through/around the element body. The grain will simply collapse around the element and boil.
The OEM temperature controller adjusts in ~5F increments, which means long ON/OFF cycles. This is acceptable only if you can successfully keep the grain off of the heating element.
FWIW, I've always using the OEM straining pot and a large nylon mesh bag to keep the grain off of the heating element. The combination of straining pot and bag could hold ~14 lbs of grain at ~1.3 qt/lb. You lose a ~1/2 gallon to the deadspace.
A couple of years ago, when I was still making 5 gallon batches with a similar rig, I fabricated a pickup tube to reach the center of the heating element (underneath the straining pot) and recirculated the wort with a pump. Worked fine.
The OEM valve will last a couple of brewing sessions and begin to strip-out. Do yourself a favor and replace it now. It's easy to unscrew.
You won't achieve anything close to even heat distribution with the heating element on the bottom and no flow through/around the element body. The grain will simply collapse around the element and boil.
The OEM temperature controller adjusts in ~5F increments, which means long ON/OFF cycles. This is acceptable only if you can successfully keep the grain off of the heating element.
FWIW, I've always using the OEM straining pot and a large nylon mesh bag to keep the grain off of the heating element. The combination of straining pot and bag could hold ~14 lbs of grain at ~1.3 qt/lb. You lose a ~1/2 gallon to the deadspace.
A couple of years ago, when I was still making 5 gallon batches with a similar rig, I fabricated a pickup tube to reach the center of the heating element (underneath the straining pot) and recirculated the wort with a pump. Worked fine.
The OEM valve will last a couple of brewing sessions and begin to strip-out. Do yourself a favor and replace it now. It's easy to unscrew.
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thanks for the coments. i see your points with the heating element - i do the same thing wiht the bag and strainer. I will use a pump to recir' water through the grains via the sparge ring
Also, i dont think the valve is replacable. it looks solid with the rest of the interior pot
Also, i dont think the valve is replacable. it looks solid with the rest of the interior pot
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sparge ring soldered on.
Displaced MassHole
Well-Known Member
I'm very interested in how this turns out, my only question is about the location of the E-turkey fryer. I looks like you have the valve for your HLT right above the controls for the fryer. Are you at all worried about water leaking onto it?
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