Easiest syle for first brew

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rack04

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Basically I looked at the rating index at Austin Homebrew Supply to try to pick a candidate for my first brew. I have heard that first time brewers should stay away from lagers. I have narrowed it down to Bavarian Hefeweizen, Double Chocolate Stout, or Irish Red Ale.
 
I asked this the first time I brewed. I did a Pale Ale from Austin Homebrew Supply.

There are numerous threads already out there just search "Easiest Beer to Brew". As you said an Ale is the way to go. Any one of the above should be alright. Just get your first brew going that way you can brew more! You will be surprised with the results. I had 2 beers fermenting before i had even tasted my first one!

Best regards!
 
I'd recommend the Hefe for your first brew, because it will be ready to drink faster.

:mug: My kind of advice. Thanks.

I've read that hefe's are prone to active fermentation. Is this something I should be concerned with since I will be using an airlock and don't own a blow off tube?

I asked this the first time I brewed. I did a Pale Ale from Austin Homebrew Supply.

There are numerous threads already out there just search "Easiest Beer to Brew". As you said an Ale is the way to go. Any one of the above should be alright. Just get your first brew going that way you can brew more! You will be surprised with the results. I had 2 beers fermenting before i had even tasted my first one!

Best regards!

What's so difficult about lager's? Do they require a little more TLC? BTW, which Pale Ale did you brew from Austin Homebrew Supply?
 
I have a batch of Hefe going right now. I recommend that you try it first because if you use the right yeast you will be amazed at the aroma & flavor a beer can have. I used Weihenstephan Weizen 3068 on my 6th or so batch and it was the first amazing beer I made. In comparison German Wheat 3333 I did not like in 2 batches that I've done.
 
:mug: My kind of advice. Thanks.

I've read that hefe's are prone to active fermentation. Is this something I should be concerned with since I will be using an airlock and don't own a blow off tube?



What's so difficult about lager's? Do they require a little more TLC? BTW, which Pale Ale did you brew from Austin Homebrew Supply?

A true Lager using a Lager yeasts wants to ferment much cooler than your normal room temperature. Around 45-50 degrees I believe
 
The only issue with a hefe is you've got to pay a little more attention to your fermentation temp with wheat yeasts given that on the low side you'll get more clover flavors and on the higher side you'll get more banana... I did a hefe third and began with a pretty simple partial extract amber that turned out beautifully. That said, done right, a hefe is one of the most wonderful beer categories in the world.
 
:mug: My kind of advice. Thanks.

I've read that hefe's are prone to active fermentation. Is this something I should be concerned with since I will be using an airlock and don't own a blow off tube?

What are you fermenting in? If it's a bucket, spend the $1 or so to get a tube from the hardware store that fits the airlock hole in your lid, run it to a can, jar, or glass full of sanitizer until the heavy activity slows. Then replace with the airlock. Otherwise, just keep an eye on the airlock to be sure it doesn't get clogged. It's the clogging that's really your enemy - if it's not clogged, you're good.

I wouldn't panic either way.
 
My first was a red ale. I think that is a very popular starter for people
 
What's so difficult about lager's? Do they require a little more TLC? BTW, which Pale Ale did you brew from Austin Homebrew Supply?[/QUOTE]

Lagers require colder temperatures around 50 to 60 degrees, and usually more time. You can have an okay tasting Ale within a month and a half usually, yet a lager can take 2 to 3 months before you even bottle it.

I did the Warrior Pale Ale from Austin Homebrew, for my first brew.
 
The REAL question here, is what should you brew to suck down, while your first REAL beer ages.

No joke. Your pipeline is empty at this point. Do something fast and cheap to give you something to drink while your double chocolate stout puts at LEAST 6 weeks under it's belt.

You don't want to drink a wheat young either in my opinion, but you have to drink SOMETHING......right?

In other words...

Get a cheapy AND one of those.
 
"The REAL question here, is what should you brew to suck down, while your first REAL beer ages."

YOU SIR ARE WISE BEYOND YOUR YEARS! PROMOTE THAT MAN!
 
"The REAL question here, is what should you brew to suck down, while your first REAL beer ages."

YOU SIR ARE WISE BEYOND YOUR YEARS! PROMOTE THAT MAN!

Really, my son, I am just here to help.




;)

:mug:

*also, the little "quote" link in the lower right of a post easily allows you to quote me in the future.;)*
 
AustinHomebrew supply's Dunkelweizen extract kit was the first brew I did, turned out great, hard to screw up. My vote would definitely be hefe style beer as you wont have to worry about clarity and the use of a secondary fermenter (if you decide you need one, do a search and join the debate :p) since the beer since it is supposed to be cloudy. :fro:
 
My vote would be for some kind of darker bitter. Wheat beers as a whole need careful fermentation control to produce the right amount of esters and phenols. A Bitter or Pale need only pale extract (or two row) and a small amount of crystal (4-10%), S-04 or US-05 and 2-3 oz of hops.

Darker beers also tend to hide mistakes better.
 
What are you fermenting in? If it's a bucket, spend the $1 or so to get a tube from the hardware store that fits the airlock hole in your lid, run it to a can, jar, or glass full of sanitizer until the heavy activity slows. Then replace with the airlock. Otherwise, just keep an eye on the airlock to be sure it doesn't get clogged. It's the clogging that's really your enemy - if it's not clogged, you're good.

I wouldn't panic either way.

Primary bucket and secondary better bottle. Good tip. Thanks.
 
Well, you’re high on gravity for starters:
Witbier
Vital Statistics:
OG:1.044 – 1.052
IBUs:8 – 20
FG:1.008 – 1.012
SRM:2 – 4
ABV:4.5 – 5.5%
 

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