Mini-Mini Keg and Keg Pump

OK I got this wonderful thing from Deep Wood Brew Products

A really nice 2L mini-keg..



Being it looked too cool to not have a keg pump on it.. I made one.



Now to either paint, polish or chrome the brass pieces.

I could have made it a lot cheaper than I did with a barb, and a picnic faucet and plastic pump.

I might go and price/make one of those shortly with pictures. This one is a little hard to break down now and required a trip to the machine shop.. suffice it to say machine shops charge by the hour.. so I had them drill and thread the cap for me as well. I could have done that part.. but since it was there and they were charging me a full hour to thread the 3/4" MIP elbow to fit the 1-1/8"-18 thread of the faucet. (#@$@%$%$%$%@ 1-1/8"-18 beer faucet threads.. #$@#$%#$$%@#$ !!!)

So ya.. anyway.. I think it will be neat to dispense my brews at the monthly brew meetings in.

What do you guys think..?

BTW still waiting for one internal piece (an o-ring) to get it to work. Right now it does create and hold pressure. So have no doubt beer will come out of it in a day or two.

Well let it be known, once I had the tube and seals.. it worked Great !!

Since no one else bit, I figured I'd be the first. Definitely intuitive.

Thanks.. The pump actually almost weighs as much as the full keg. But it does stand up and support its self empty. Very balanced. In my office it looks like a piece of art.. Functional art The Mini-Mini-Keg dispenses about 8 - 8 oz cups

The simpler version (A plastic pump and barb w/ picnic faucet) I have a feel will work better than this one.. and be cheaper. But it wouldn't look as cool.

Anyway, a leak at the faucet was a bit annoying, when under full pressure it leaked (A small drip not major). I think this is because there was no good way to seal the back of the faucet directly to the tube or elbow and the machined threads apparently were good, but not enough to hold the pressure and too thin and sharp for pipe thread tape. I haven't given up yet, I plan on trying a few other things to seal it.

But it you only lightly pressurize the tank it works well and doesn't leak. You can then pump the beer out slowly. But like I said its more for decoration and a conversation piece at the local home brewer monthly meetings.

Actually a change the conversation piece from "That's Charles over there, his beer is horrible" to "That's Charles over there with the cool mini-keg"

Beer art. Love it.

Wonder if I could bring it to the office and "display" it on my desk.. as art..?

(think they would notice if I take it home every night to refill it)

Very cool -----

I'm inspired, I think I'm going to make my own from scratch. Roll form some gauge SS & laser cut some rounds for the ends. Maybe turn and tap the plug and machine 2 caps, one for priming & one for serving.

Can chance next time you've got your tap off you can take some close ups? and are you using a dip tube on the inside some how?

Yes there is a pick up tube in the setup.

1/2" Tee with a 1/4" tube in it.. Tube runs bottom to top. Where a sink gasket seals the tube in the bottom of 1/2"-3/4" reducer for the 3/4" elbow that is threaded for the faucet. There the tube is bent 90 degrees and a few gaskets were used there to seal the 90 from getting full.

So the air goes in the side of the tee, and down through the 1/2" to 3/8" reducer to 3/8" - 1-1/2" nipple, the cap is threaded for the 3/8" nipple to screw into it. Then the tube continues to the bottom and nipple is open to the top..

The 1/2" street elbow is used is a direct fit the pump.. no mods needed there.

Hmm.. wonder if this could be used on a Growler cap..?

F**kin neat man, good work...

--hit reply on the wrong thread on my phone--

wrong thread..?

CDGoin said:

wrong thread..?

Click to expand...

beat me to it, hit reply in this thread instead of 'what are you drinking now'

OK..

I just got one of these



its 5L..

IF you remove the cap from my party pump. The 3/8" nipple it will fit in the bung and seal for pressure. Have not tested with water/beer yet, just for air. As I just went back to Hardywood and filled the growler for a test of the new seal for the beer faucet (Which BTW works awesome.. no more leaks).

Anyway..

Looks like my design will work for both, with LESS modification for the 5L Kegs. Although with my design if you don't finish off the 5L you may want a second bung to replug the mini-Keg.

Looks great. I love the keg pump.

Did the "cheaper" model using the 5L cans and plastic pump..





Fairly cheap to reproduce.. will have to break it down and show the design and give a Bill of Materials if anyone is interested.

While the pump looks cooler, it'd be better for the beer to attach one of these guys.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/soda-keg-co2-charger.html

Need to find a way to make it fit.. but shouldn't be too hard. Now if your trying to force carb, that would probably work better.

The thing about the pump is that the 5L empties fairly fast, and with the pump you don't need to buy anything. It works well if your conditioning the beer in it and only use the pump to get the beer out.

CDGoin said:

Did the "cheaper" model using the 5L cans and plastic pump..

Fairly cheap to reproduce.. will have to break it down and show the design and give a Bill of Materials if anyone is interested.

Click to expand...

This is really cool. I would love to see a parts and price list as well as where to get this.

Plumbing fittings from any hardware store

Hand Pumps - http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/pumps/replacement/index.shtml (All on clearenace so not sure where to get them after them without buying a full keg pump)

Picnic faucets - Any LBHS

5L Keg - Any German or Becks keg can be reused OR http://www.midwestsupplies.com/mini-keg.html

IF you reuse the Becks or others you need the BUNG from midwest supplies

Breakdown and instructions to come when I can find my good camera.. and get a few more parts.

5L Keg - Any German or Becks keg can be reused OR [url said:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/mini-keg.html[/url]

IF you reuse the Becks or others you need the BUNG from midwest supplies

Click to expand...

We go through dozens of new castle & Heineken 5L kegs at work, I'm not familiar enough to know, are they the same as the Beck's?

Does anyone know why Northern Brewer says "Each mini keg will last for 6 - 8 uses before needing to be replaced."?

What wears out?

atimmerman88 said:

We go through dozens of new castle & Heineken 5L kegs at work, I'm not familiar enough to know, are they the same as the Beck's?

Click to expand...

No they are different. Becks and a few German Brands are all I know.

InBEV uses a design all thier own.

As for what Northern says tehy wear out I think its because the spout would wear out. Using my pump you don't mess with it at all so it should work much longer.

CDGoin said:

No they are different. Becks and a few German Brands are all I know.

InBEV uses a design all thier own.

As for what Northern says tehy wear out I think its because the spout would wear out. Using my pump you don't mess with it at all so it should work much longer.

Click to expand...

What other German beers are compatible? I can't find Becks Kegs anywhere

From what I have found :

Paulaner
Spaten
HofBrau
Warsteiner
Bitburger
Grolsch



Now note the above kegs have a red spout/tap on the side.. THAT is the key that you have the right 5L. Also note the Rubber plug in the top. Thats what makes these the reusable ones.

Now remember the plug on the top has to be replaced with bungs from MidwestSupplies



It looks like SOME craft brewers are using them as well..

Widmer Brothers
Bell'sTwo hearted Ale
Also apparently Rogue is experimenting with 5L as well.



>>>>>>>>>>



My design is basically a hand pump version of the Party Start deluxe Tap System for these Kegs.


Difference.. Parts for mine cost about $40-50 (Less if you can find a old keg hand pump for free), 4 bungs are about $5, and the kegs are "free" OR cost the same but come filled with Beer

VS $129.99 for the Party Star kit.

Which BTW requires you have a CO2 cartridge to use. Mine does not.

So thats it.. Just remember don't try to use the Beertender styles from Heine or Newcastle :



BTW found a great page on a website with a better list with pictures :
http://blog.kegerator.com/tag/5-liter-kegs/

Also this:

Goes into the kegs better and how to reuse them. Although the bungs he uses seem to be different than what Mid-west offers.

would like to see the parts break down and how you put it all together.

Picky picky picky..

That's this weekends project.. Have to break it down.

Also have a few fixes in mind to solve a small leaking issue.

Once I know it all works (and no longer leaks) I will provide all the gory details.

sweet good once you post it up i'm going to try and do the exact same thing but put a ball lock connection on it instead of a hand pump to connect to my co2 tank

The Directions:

1) Get parts





2' of 1/4" Copper OD
(Parts lists shows a 10 coil.. but at store you can get just 2' and save a few dollars.)

1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" TEE

1/2" x 3/8" Hex bushing & 1-1/2" 3/8" Nipple
(In pictures these two are already mated and go into the bottom of the 1/2" Tee)

1/2" x 1/2" Brass Compression x MIP Adapter

1' section of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Vinyl tubing

2' section of 3/8" ID x 1/4" ID Vinyl tubing

Total Cost from Lowes for plumbing fittings : ~ $ 35

Keg hand pump : $12-$30 depending on the style. (Free if you know someone in the industry that you can get the pump off a broken keg tap)

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/keg-pump-parts-cid-219.html

Although I show the cheaper plastic HP-300 here.. I Prefer the 4" Chrome one for $24.

Picnic Faucet - $4 LHBS

So total cost : $65, cans are Free (Truly $2 each as you need to get bungs for them) or $15 ea. so if you buy the cans it comes out to about the same as the party star system.. BUT looks much cooler, and you don't have to go find CO2 cartridges.. or worry about running out of them. If you get Free cans.. then you save some.

NOTE: I DID NOT SHOW USING TEFLON TAPE AS THIS WAS A DRY FIT..
DO USE TAPE WHEN YOU DO FINAL ASSEMBLY.



2) Gently bend an arc in the 1/4" pipe to feed it through the Tee.



3) Once thru make bend as close to a tight 90 as you can without crimping it.



4) Assemble the elbow..

• Slide the 1/4" pipe thru the Compression fitting
• Tighten the compression fitting insert into the TEE and trim the end of the 1/4" pipe.
• Slide up the 1/2 x 3/8 & 3/8 nipple and screw into the bottom of the 1/2" Tee.

Note: The 1/4" pipe will go thru the bell and the bell should seat in the fitting. Leaving the 1/4" sticking out of the Bell square to the Tee.

5) Cut an approximately 1-1/2" length of 1/2" ID Vynil tubing
6) Insert the 1/2" compression bell into 1/2" section
7) Slide the 1/2" compression nut over the 3/8" tubing out of the way.
8) Slide in the 3/8" OD Vynil tubing into the 1/2" tubing up to the back side of the bell


9) Slide the Compression nut over the 1/2" tubing


10) While making sure all pieces are tight to one another tighten down the 1/2" nut.

Now line up the bottom of the top of the nipple with the top of the Keg and measure the length of pipe you need to reach the bottom. Remember to cut a little LONGER than you think you need if you are in doubt. Easier to cut some more off than to redo the whole thing.



There you go the almost complete keg pump.

Just screw in the pump and your ready to go.

Just push the pipe and nipple through the Rubber bung (the plastic center will fall into the keg). Couldn't be simpler.

This thread is full of awesome

I am partially wrong.. Dont have to buy the Bung on ALL 5L Cans.

Went to Total Beer and Wine and found this:



BTW BitBurger is a really tasty Light lager. Also, NOT ALL of the 5L kegs have the bung you have to pry off after your finished with the Beer. Like the Warstiener in the video above. Some

Should note that BOTH Bitburger in the silver can and their Köstritzer Schwarzbier (In the black) had the rubber bungs.

The Spaten, Warstiener, Grolsch and Beck ones have the top piece you have to remove as per the Youtube clip. Although pictures on line vary somewhat. So just check when you go to the store.

I will recommend when inserting the pump into a production beer.. cover with a towel.. its sprays a bit on you.. But that said the pump does work on production kegs too..

That said.. looks like I am buying more Bitburger lager.

It was $22 a 5L, Cans at Midwest are $15, bung is $2, and add shipping.. $24.63 (Checked it out on thier site) so it was like the best beer ever.. FREE ! Beats the heck out of buying BMC for thier AL cans or something like that.

They did have something even cooler, to go with all this:



5L Coozies

****in right on bro much appreciated

CDGoin said:

Now line up the bottom of the top of the nipple with the top of the Keg and measure the length of pipe you need to reach the bottom. Remember to cut a little LONGER than you think you need if you are in doubt. Easier to cut some more off than to redo the whole thing.

There you go the almost complete keg pump.

Just screw in the pump and your ready to go.

Just push the pipe and nipple through the Rubber bung (the plastic center will fall into the keg). Couldn't be simpler.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8P1r49h7RMU

Click to expand...

You may want to watch out using copper. In someother threads, there was a fairly lengthy discussion on stuffed being leached out due to the acidic nature of beer. I will try to find it and post the link.

Granted, if it's going to be a single sitting type dispenser, I imagine it would be fine

Exactly.. the longest it will sit in one 5L is a few days tops.

Also the only "fittings" touching the beer is the copper pipe. Everything else is only in contact with the air. If the copper line deteriorates, its easily replaced.

If I do detect "metal" flavors.. I could nip the copper up high and run a vynil tube into the beer.. but then punching out the plug would be a little more difficult.

>>>>>>>

Also 5L is roughly 21 (8oz beers) to 10 (16oz Pints)

I think I was in the 15 beer range with my 333ML Glasses.

So if you have this in the Beer fridge in a new 5L you just tapped.. your looking at the most 7 days... if your a "responsible drinker" and only have 2 a day.. (BTW WHO does that.. ?!?!). If your like me 1-3 days tops or a weekend with no one helping. If you bring it to a party it could be killed in an hour or less.

Personally I will be bottling 2 of these each 5Gal (20L) Batch I do, then (6) 1L flip caps, and (2) Six packs (just in case its good enough for competition). Should cut bottling time down to nothing.

As for CO2 vs Hand pump..

IF you are serving from this.. then the CO2 is overkill in my opinion. It would take a long time to de-carb the beer. Remember, even though its air and not CO2 its still under pressure.. holding the CO2 in the Beer. The only issue would be off flavors from possible oxidation. Again the chances of that hurting the beer in a cold environment under press for no more than a few days.. would be unnoticeable.

The setup isn't for storage its for serving.. I am willing to bet any off flavors found will not be from the can and pump, but be there since brewing.

Now if you want to force carb... That's possible with this design.. BUT not sure the bung would hold up.. The first design with the 2L Growler would be a much better design for force carbing.

Also since I haven't force carbed.. I maybe wrong.. but isn't it best to force carb from the bottom through the beer.. ? And not from the top surface of the beer? OR does it matter?

I ask because.. well.. I could make another one designed with force carbing in mind.

How would you feel about modifying the outgoing tubing to attach to a keg for filling without splatter, as one would do a growler? It would be a sort of way to bring your Kegged brews to a party without actually bringing your keg, but still keeping the kegged look an feel.

I realize a growler already fulfills this purpose well, I'm just asking hypothetically.

Why not just fill the empty can at the top opening, and then put the bung in and insert the pump.

Wouldn't need to go through the pump.

CDGoin said:

Why not just fill the empty can at the top opening, and then put the bung in and insert the pump.

Wouldn't need to go through the pump.

Click to expand...

Well that sure does sound like a lot less work. Like I said in the previous post it would just be a way to avoid any unnecessary splatter, but I guess if you use a vinyl tube to fill your growlers anyway it wouldn't be much of a difference. Plus it would probably be easier to see how full it is.