Brand-new brewer questions.

Too-long, didn't read? Summary at bottom.

Okay,

So I just went out and recently purchased a "Cooper's Micro-brew Kit" from my local K-Mart (I'm Australian). For the time being I plan to stick to easy to use home-brew kits, such as the ones Coopers sells. I will one day move on to making my batches (through, mashing? partial-mashing?), but only when I have a steady grip on the fermentation process. My first brew (an Ale) is currently in its 5th day of Fermentation. I just have a couple of questions.

1) Cleaning.

To clean the kit, my friend and I used standard unscented household bleach mixed with 23litres of water, placed all equipment coming in contact with the brew inside the fermenter and let soak for 1/2 hour. After this, we rinsed EVERYTHING in boiling hot water, and let soak on a CLEAN tea-towel. Is this process okay? Any tips/advice for easier cleaning?

2) Alcohol Content.

We want to make a strong alcoholic brew to break out for my mates 19th Birthday. Basically, I've been reading that TOO much sugar can cause bottles to explode. Though, I think that's only for priming, and we aren't using priming sugar. As per Cooper's instructions we are using carbon lollies. I've also read that honey can be used to increase the... food?... for the yeast. How much honey? How do I put it in the beer? When? What is too much? And questions of the like.

TL;DR:

1) Is cleaning the fermenter and all equipment with bleach okay?
2) How can a more alcoholic brew be achieved? What can be used, what are the rules of adding more fermentables to a brew, and more-over what is the highest % you've made, and how.

Cleaning with bleach is fine. If you want to sanitize you may want to try some of the no rinse sanitizers out there. (starsan, idophor)

To increase the ABV, increase the fermentables in a given volume. Try to match the increase with the style of the beer. (LME, DME, Grain Bill)

Ant

+1 to bleach. It works. 'Nuff said.

Now, as to increasing the ABV: Just tossing in more corn or cane sugar is a bad idea. Excessive use of non-malt sugar will yield a less-than-good beer.

Better to simply add another tin of Cooper's - that is, if you're talking about the 1.7kg tin kits. 3.4kg of the Cooper's hopped extract in 19L (approximately 5 US Gallons) will yield an original gravity (OG) of ~1.055, which should yield an ABV of between 5 and 6%. If you want more kick than that, that's the point to add a half-kilo of corn sugar.

Cheers,

Bob

antsp1 said:

To increase the ABV, increase the fermentables in a given volume. Try to match the increase with the style of the beer. (LME, DME, Grain Bill)

Ant

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Keeping in mind, I am a TOTAL beginner. I know next to nothing about home-brew other than what I've read from the Cooper's Instruction Manual.

Fermentables I assume are the sugars or honey etc; yeast food? Say I am making a 23L Lager (my next kit) normally, I'd add the wort (that's what it's called, right?) from the can, then add the 1kg of Sugar (though I'm using brew enhancer Sugar link: Homebrew, Coopers homebrew beers and ales. Mix, brew, bottle.). Are you saying that instead of just 1kg of Sugar, I'd add more?

1. Bleach is okay for cleaning, but it's not the best solution. I would recommend you shell out a few bucks for some Oxyclean Free (no scents or dyes) or even some PBW - Powdered Brewery Wash. Keep in mind that your current process is only cleaning, it's not sanitizing. Any time you rinse with tap water or set your equipment on an unsanitized surface, you're introducing bacteria. Remember that cleaning and sanitizing are two different things, both important, but very much seperate. My process is to soak in PBW to clean then soak in water and Star San (only a few bucks at any LHBS or online store) to sanitize.

2. Adding more sugars for the yeast to munch on will increase the alcohol content. However, be careful here, because you run the risk of ending up with something you don't want to drink. Adding table sugar or corn sugar might give a little more kick to your brew, but it will also generally thin it out, resulting in less body and less flavor. Note that this won't cause bottle bombs (I'm talking about adding sugar in the wort, not to prime your bottles here) but it might not taste like you want it to taste. My advice, if you want a stronger beer, look for a stronger recipe so that you aren't sacrificing flavor for alcohol. Barleywine, RIS, double IPA, etc...

Note also that any fermentable sugar can and will be eaten by the yeast, and turned into alcohol. Table sugar, corn sugar, molasses, honey, even various fruit.

SaintBrew said:

Keeping in mind, I am a TOTAL beginner. I know next to nothing about home-brew other than what I've read from the Cooper's Instruction Manual.

Fermentables I assume are the sugars or honey etc; yeast food? Say I am making a 23L Lager (my next kit) normally, I'd add the wort (that's what it's called, right?) from the can, then add the 1kg of Sugar (though I'm using brew enhancer Sugar link: Homebrew, Coopers homebrew beers and ales. Mix, brew, bottle.). Are you saying that instead of just 1kg of Sugar, I'd add more?

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What he's saying is to add another can of Cooper's mix. This too is fermentable, and will result in a more full-bodied beer, as opposed to simple sugar which will thin it out. Then, if that's still not enough for you, you can add in some sugar after you've tried this.

Okay, this is all really helpful.

For my next Lager, I'll add another can then, and keep the same amount of sugar? Though as NQ3X said, if I want more kick I can add 1/2kg of Corn Sugar.

So with 3.2kg of Coopers Lager mix, in a 23Litre fermenter with 1.5kg of sugar (mixed brew enhancer - previously linked, and corn sugar?), what % would this yeild?

Sorry if I am coming across as a little dense, this is a whole new world to me.

Thanks for all the help already lads.

The stuff in the can is called malt extract and that is what you want to add more of to increase alcohol. Adding more dextrose can cause your beer to taste thin and cidery. You can buy malt extract with or without hops, however, if you overload on unhopped your beer may be too sweet.

How about buying 2 cans of whatever beer style you want to brew and leave out the sugar completely? The sugars from the extra malt will take the place of the dextrose (or brew enhancer as they call it). This should make your beer taste better and raise the ABV.

Nurmey said:

The stuff in the can is called malt extract and that is what you want to add more of to increase alcohol. Adding more dextrose can cause your beer to taste thin and cidery. You can buy malt extract with or without hops, however, if you overload on unhopped your beer may be too sweet.

How about buying 2 cans of whatever beer style you want to brew and leave out the sugar completely? The sugars from the extra malt will take the place of the dextrose (or brew enhancer as they call it). This should make your beer taste better and raise the ABV.

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+1 to this. Alcohol content should always be secondary to flavor. Sure, you could dump a bunch of sugar in there to boost the ABV, but it's going to taste like cider, not beer.

llazy_llama said:

+1 to this. Alcohol content should always be secondary to flavor. Sure, you could dump a bunch of sugar in there to boost the ABV, but it's going to taste like cider, not beer.

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I agree with this, the only reason we're making this batch is for his 19th. Alcohol (good alcohol) is expensive in Australia. We have a lot of mates who will buy $5 Sacks of Wine, so for them flavour isn't a necessity.

Flavour is always going to be a priority, though this is a one of special order as it were.

Oh also, does Malt Extract = Malt Concentrate, or are they completely different?

Just have them drop a shot of cheap vodka into a glass of your finished product. That way those who want to enjoy the taste can do so. Those that want to get drunk can do that too.

llazy_llama said:

Just have them drop a shot of cheap vodka into a glass of your finished product. That way those who want to enjoy the taste can do so. Those that want to get drunk can do that too.

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Not a bad idea, I've seen them do worse.

Sack Wine + Creaming Soda + Crushed Ice = Hangover Slushie.

SaintBrew said:

Oh also, does Malt Extract = Malt Concentrate, or are they completely different?

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I've never heard the term malt concentrate, but I would imagine it's just two different names for the same thing.

Okay cool, it's just Coopers Kits are called "hopped malt concentrates" so I'd assume it's the same as a hopped malt extract?

Malt Extract = Malt Concentrate

Yes that is correct. At least it should be.

Ant

Okay cool. Thanks for everyone involved here, you've all been an invaluable source of knowledge.

And... another question!

My ale started at 1.044, and on the 4th day it was down to 1.025 is it on track? I've got the jitters, though I assume thats just because I'm a brewbie.

I use fresh paper towel intead of the tea towels. I make sure to have the "inside" facing up. Haven't had an infection yet.

joety said:

I use fresh paper towel intead of the tea towels. I make sure to have the "inside" facing up. Haven't had an infection yet.

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Okay cool, I've always though tea-towels were a little.... unhygienic. I'll give those bad boys a go.

As for bottle cleaning, I'm going to use a hospital grade baby bottle cleaner. Put 10 bottles upside down on this device, microwave for 10 seconds and BAM! clean.

SaintBrew said:

Okay cool. Thanks for everyone involved here, you've all been an invaluable source of knowledge.

And... another question!

My ale started at 1.044, and on the 4th day it was down to 1.025 is it on track? I've got the jitters, though I assume thats just because I'm a brewbie.

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Your gravity seems fine and should drop several more points. Now, leave that beer alone for another week and stop taking readings.

And yes your ale is on track.

A problem you might have if your mates b-day is appraoacing fast, is that (for the most part) big beers (high ABV) tend to take longer to mature into something that tastes good.

BUT

You will find that brewing beer is a study in "exception to the rules" type thing.

Ant

His birthday isn't 'till July 12th so we've got plenty of time.

As for leaving the beer alone, it's sooo hard. I keep looking at it and just staring, waiting.

SaintBrew said:

His birthday isn't 'till July 12th so we've got plenty of time.

As for leaving the beer alone, it's sooo hard. I keep looking at it and just staring, waiting.

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Believe me that all of us know how hard it is for you to leave your beer alone. Waiting is the hardest part of brewing.

Nurmey said:

Believe me that all of us know how hard it is for you to leave your beer alone. Waiting is the hardest part of brewing.

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Sure is. The key is to go out and buy some really good commercial beers to stave off the desire to crack a green beer.

Just got back from my mates (where we are brewing).

The ale has been stable at 24 deg C, all bubbling has stopped so I though we'd take a reading. It's at 1.022 right now, so we are going to leave it for a few more days. Figured, might as well drink the sample.

And to my surprise,

It. Was. Good.

The bastard hasn't even finished fermenting and I am already kind of taken back by it. Mind you, my opinion is skewed because I made it. Everything you make yourself tastes better, because it's yours. It's not Becks, but I'll tell you what it'll do me when it's done!

EDIT: I know you all told me to leave it... I COULDN'T RESIST! But now we've locked the room it was in, and we're not going back till we think it's time!

My solution to new-brewers OCD was to buy several more carboys and brew more beer while I waited for my first to finish fermenting.

Plus that way, once the beer pipeline opens up you always have HB available. Now, when I buy beer from the store, it's just for the bottles.

I was thinking of buying more fermenters, but I bought the 23Litre Coopers Micro-Brew kit for like $85AUD... methinks I was ripped off a wee-bit (it did come with... well.. everything I needed to brew beer, including 30 bottles (PET) and a Lager can). I'm going to go searching for a local home-brew store that JUST sells the fermenter.